Well I've got some of the prices at last for the complete machine work for the 16valve...
$150 gasket set
$350 rebuild head
$500 clean & bore block, peen align and stress relieve rods, polish crank & balance
$350 bearings, pistons and rings
$40 HP oil pump

Sheesh... I paid less for the complete car!!

Did I miss anything?
L8R

That oil pump seems a little low
HP should run about $120

The rest of the parts seem close, the machine work
sounds a little high, as does the pistons and bearings
and the gasket set should only be around $100 Max

The head can be had for $250 ready to go here, or
about $175 to rebuild yours.

Are you doing the work yourself (assembly)
or is this the quoted shop prices for parts and
assembly

seems a little spendy from what i have learned in auto class. if hp is high pressure, why do you want to run high pressure? wouldnt you rather run high flow? unless your building high performance

High Performance oil pump, has greater flow

[quote/]Are you doing the work yourself (assembly)
or is this the quoted shop prices for parts and
assembly

Haven't decided on the assembly yet... prolly will do it myself on the bottom end, depends on price tho'. I may be off on the HP oil pump... I'll double check... the main reason for the post tho' was to get specs (if any) on porting and polishing. I haven't done any zuks to this point and thot that someone out there might've. My experience stems mostly from motorcycles and VW's and I know that having the right flow is everything.

Don't get me wrong... any porting and polishing is always better than stock.
L8R

bump

Billybob_CA

California or Canada ?

Ahh N/M I found it in your BIO
Kalifornia

I live up by San Bernardino and Redlands

Wild

Morning

Looks like you have everything covered and to me the prices look ok, except the pump which looks real low.

By the pricing I am going to assume this is top quality stuff not cheap crap.

As far as porting and polishing...carefull, for the 4X4 stuff I would be very careful not to open up things too much. You want to keep the intake and exhaust port velocities high to build low end power...kind of the opposite of motorcycles and race cars.

I would...
- match the ports to the manifolds and gaskets
- clean up obvious restrictions
- back cut the valve seats

then leave the rest pretty much alone.

Just a couple of thoughts

Zag

How much of a rebuild can be done in vehicle? I am facing this and don't have much space. I know the answer is probably take it out, it's much easier, but can't hurt to ask.

Thanks,

Jeff

What do you guys think of the kits sold by folks like Rocky-Road or found on ebay?

If the crank is OK, and doesn't need grinding
you can do an in-frame, new rod bearings, mains
can be a little tricky, but if you know how and are
carefull they can be done, hone the cylinders and
put in new rings,  pistons too if they are the same
size, send the head out for valves and get a gasket
set, while the pan is off you can replace the oil pump
and water pump as good insurance, but it would suck
if you end up pulling the engine for a clutch or throw
out bearing in the next few months from all the extra
horse power you now get

Wild

It's an automatic, so no clutches or throwout bearings. In car sound doable though. hmmmm, one more thing to think about. Thanks,

Jeff