Hi, I'm going through things needed to put some 235/70 R 16 in my car. The model is Insa Turbo Dakar, which is exactly the same pattern as BFG MT. And these tend to be a little taller than the BFG in the same size. The thing is the rubber will probably touch the frame on full lock, and possibly the fenders.
This mod needs to pass an inspection, and the wheels can't touch any part of the car (ie: no rubbing, at least when flat). I see little inconvenience in cutting fenders or whatever, but I obviously cant cut the frame. And I would prefer not to use spacers. So, is there any way to reduce the steering angle so that the wheels don't touch the frame? I know it is rather easy on the Sidekick, but that is a different steering box. What about on a GV (2004)?

Do you mean adjust the steering so it can't turn quite as much?  Sorta like adjusting steering stops on older vehicles?  Can't say as I'd know how to do it on our rack-and-pinion Suzuki's but that might clear up what you're looking for.

Another way to keep the tires off the frame might be rims with slightly less backspacing.  On my Ranger I put rims on that have half an inch less backspacing than the stock rims.  They're the same width but the tires are 2" taller than the stock tires.  The half inch the tires moved out from the frame is just enough that they don't grab the frame at full lock and compression.  Something like this might work for you.

Yup, I meant adjust the steering so it can't turn as much. I didn't understand "I'd know how to do it on our rack-and-pinion Suzuki's but that might clear up what you're looking for." Is it possible or isnt it?
The whole problem with this is:
Larger tires: need an engineering "memorium" (not sure how it's called in English), which is relatively cheap (30-60€ depending on sizes)
Larger tires + spacers or backspacing: you need an engineering "project" which costs at least 300€. Plus the cash for the spacers or rims. And tires.
Whatever I choose, I need the engineering papers and then pass inspection.

So you can imagine why I don't want to do spacers or rims. Besides, in a few years I'll probably finish my studies, I'll be an engineer and I'll do my own papers . So I would like to get a cheap way around for the moment, such as adjusting this. I checked the service manual and it speaks of this angle, but not how to change it.
This is what it says:

STEERING ANGLE
When tie rod end was replaced, check toe and then also steering
angle with turning radius gauges.
If steering angle is not correct, check if right and left tie-rods are
equal in length.

NOTE:
If tie rod lengths were changed to adjust steering angle, reinspect
toe-in.

Ah, gotcha on the not-replacing rims thing.  You'd have as much in rims as you would the certificate.

What I ment was on older vehicles with idler arms and the like there was often a way you could just adjust the steering stops out a bit to keep the tires off the body/frame.  This ment no rubbage but also a wider turn radius.  What I ment was I didn't know if that was possible on our rack-and-pinion (the type of steering gear we have) equipped Suzukis.

I just dug through the steering section of my Suzuki FSM and yeah, I can't see any steering stops or any official way they mentioned.  However:
-You might try making steering stops.  I've seen this done on other vehicles without them.  Basically just something that will prevent the knuckles from turning all the way in by getting in the way physically.  Again, if this is possible I can't say.
-Possibly screw the tie rod ends out a little bit further so the tires can't turn in as far?  Can't say how this would affect your ability to hold an alignment or tire wear either.

If I am understanding this correct, you have a rack and pinion type steering and not the box with a pitman arm. The measurements for the rack and pinion have to balance between the steering wheel being straight and the alignment of the tires. The rack and pinion steering is a push/pull steering box in of itself. The rod ends are part of that mechanism within the rack. The pinion is the shaft portion. What moves is the rack within the housing which is secured to the frame. I really don't know, but I'm thinking that with the steering wheel being centered and the rack and pinion are within tolerance, then the tie rods have to be near equal length. With no steering stops, I'll assume the rack is the steering stop itself.

To help understand, and I've never taken a rack and pinion steering apart so this is all assumption, the rack is made of ups and downs (sort of like knuckles when making a fist). The pinion fits between these and as the pinion rotates, it pushes/pulls the rack side to side. Now if the rack is setup too far to one side, then the steering to that side won't equal the steering to the other side. So the rotation of the steering wheel around will push/pull the rack till the end of the rack is reached.

Good luck.

how about just setting the toe in too much when you go if the test.  I have 245/75/16's on my xl-7 and they just rub frame.  So I would think with the 235's it would be even less so you should be able to get away just doing the toe in thing.

George

OK, thanks for the help.
Blacknight, these tires are larger than their official size, they are a bit wider and a bit taller. What I mean is that these tires, side by side on the same BFG size, the Insa Turbo are about 1 cm larger in diameter. I measured the distance from the ture to the frame when lock to lock and there isn't enough space to fit them. They will rub.
Anyways, about the steering stops. I thought about limiting the travel of the tie rods, but that is difficult. It seems much easier and doable to do something about the travel of the knuckles, some sort of rubber bump stop. But this might not pass inspection. So I went thinking about limiting the rotation of the steering wheel.
By fixing 2 straps on the steering shaft, one limiting turning one way and the other the other way, and fixing the other ends someplace on the chassis, maybe I can effectively keep the tires off the frame. I know it wouldn't be very reliable, but remember this only needs to work once. I think I may go this route: cheap, achieves the goal and not easily seen.
Again, thanks for the help.

...and sneaky!

OK, thanks for the help.
Blacknight, these tires are larger than their official size, they are a bit wider and a bit taller. What I mean is that these tires, side by side on the same BFG size, the Insa Turbo are about 1 cm larger in diameter. I measured the distance from the ture to the frame when lock to lock and there isn't enough space to fit them. They will rub.

I think that you missed what I was trying to say which is by setting the toe in too much you will be limting how far the back side of the wheel can go towards the frame or the same as your limting strap.   The only down side to doing it this way would be tire scrub.  Also this would cost you nothing just some time under the zuk.

By the way they look like a good tire

Yes, that is the tire, Blackknight.
By doing the toe-in , I see they wouldn't touch the frame at the back of the wheel, but wouldn't it touch the front part even more?
I don't care about the tire scrub, it's max 2 km going to the inspection station and back home. Another problem is that if the toe-in is rather obvious, they may say it's unsafe or something...

Shouldn't rub in the front as the frame isn't as wide.  My 245/75/16's only rub on the rear side of the tire. Also you would be suprized how much you would have to toe it in to be seen by the eye.  I would give it a try just count the number of turns when you do it if it does work you just out some time and sweat.
George

Right, I see. When I buy the tires I'll see what I'll do, but the toe-in thing sounds good .
Thanks!