I have a newly aquired stock 86 Samurai.  The suspension sucks.  I have ridden in enough of them to know that it is normal.  I want to improve ride quality and stability, but don't care to raise height or increase articulation anymore than necessary.  I have a set of YJ springs from a 6 cylinder and plan to use them.  I plan to do a SPUA to minimize lift and would prefer to move the shackle to the rear of the front springs cause it works better (why did they put in front to begin with??)  I would like to keep the wheel base close to the same to minimize driveshaft changes.  My questions are:
1. Does anyone see problems in this approach.
2. Does anyone have a better suggestion
3.  Although I realize I could do this myself, I would prefer a package from a supplier.  The closest I could find that sounded OK was from Canyon State Components, but I can't locate them or even find out if they are still in business.    Anyone know someone out there who can supply this

did u say u r going to move the shaclke to the rear of the front leaf pack.

...I plan to do a SPUA to minimize lift and would prefer to move the shackle to the rear of the front springs cause it works better (why did they put in front to begin with??)...  

Actually, they put it in front to minimize driveshaft motion throughout the suspension range of movement. With the shackle in the front, as the axle moves up and down, the distance from the axle to the transfer case remains pretty constant whereas when the shackle is in the rear of the front springs, the distance from axle to transfer case changes more as the axle goes up and down. This means the slip yoke has to compensate more and might end up leaving you with not enough depth engaged to keep the yoke together...

Actually, they put it in front to minimize driveshaft motion throughout the suspension range of movement. With the shackle in the front, as the axle moves up and down, the distance from the axle to the transfer case remains pretty constant whereas when the shackle is in the rear of the front springs, the distance from axle to transfer case changes more as the axle goes up and down. This means the slip yoke has to compensate more and might end up leaving you with not enough depth engaged to keep the yoke together...

not to mension the fact of drive line angles on the u-joints.

Try these guys!

http://www.puresuzuki.com/shackle_reverse.htm

Cwkick

Try these guys!

http://www.puresuzuki.com/shackle_reverse.htm

Cwkick

Yeah, thanks, I've considered this but want to keep articulation down.  ( Iknow, Iknow, most of you guys out there want more, but I drive an old stock 88 subaru GL wagon and have gotten fond of "hanging" a corner in the air to get places.  I know it takes more driver skill, but it also avoids getting a tire locked between two rocks at times. and I enjoy pulling out tricked out wranglers, etc with my stock subaru.  Don't get to pull out Samurai's though cause they are light enough to lift out)  This kit doesn't provide the ridgid suspension i want.  I want just a simple shackle reversal with both the front and rear of the springs relocated in front to end up with the axle in the original location front to baack and a simple normal shackle.  I may have to make my own, but I'd really rather not.  I stilll drive the subaru as the choice in the desert because of ride, but am trying to get the Samurai usable because my motorhome is limited to about 2000 pounds for towing.  

If you use your factory springs, they don't articulate to much more than stock.  The ride and the tracking are MUCH better.  It doesn't move the tire position from stock, other than 2" of lift.  I recommend this kit!

Cwkick