Hello, have an Samurai with a 1.6 8v in it and I am installing a VW K03 turbo. I have everything sorted out but I just wanted to ask a question about the oil return line from the turbo. I am assuming most people just drill and install a bung in the oil pan but I wanted to see if there was a factory low pressure return location that was ever designed into the block? Perhaps one that was never drilled or tapped but the casting exist for it?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Not that I know of on the 8 valve.  Going into the pan is probably the safest way to handle it.

You don't see to many turbo 8 vavles, mostly the 16v.

I thought the 8v and 16v block was the same?

Oil pan is definitely only drain i know of. Unless your turbo sticks over the valve cover then you could technically drain to that. The drain needs gravity to work so whatever you drain into has to be underneath the turbo

Drone637 and Toys-n-Joys,

Thanks for the info. I ended up tig welding a tube in the pan. But I am super happy with the results.

Now I just need to buy some vacuum hose for the FMU and retard the timing a bit. Plus install my wideband to make sure it works.

Does anyone know any other tricks? 

o2 signal modifiers perhaps? Like the Miata guys do it.

Drone637 and Toys-n-Joys,

Thanks for the info. I ended up tig welding a tube in the pan. But I am super happy with the results.

Now I just need to buy some vacuum hose for the FMU and retard the timing a bit. Plus install my wideband to make sure it works.

Does anyone know any other tricks? 

o2 signal modifiers perhaps? Like the Miata guys do it.

Looks clean is that a kimi kit? With the ebay k03 and fmu?

Id suggest a tunable ecu. Either honda ecu. Microsquirt, haltech, aem etc. Microsquirt is about $300 with some WRX blue injectors $100 and a fuel pump would be my go to.

Im going to install a pickup wheel for coil on plug maybe a cam angle  sensor from a eclipse. You should look into that too. Theres guys running 20psi stock g16b on Facebook.

Toys-n-Joys,

I am not sure what a Kimi Kit is. But I picked up the turbo on Amazon for 75 bucks and the FMU I have had sitting on my shelf for about eight years. I would most definitely like a standalone ECU but I am wanting to keep it cheep and low boost for now.

To tell you the truth I am realistic and since I have no form of timing control I may just loosen the wastegate so I can only develop around 3 or 4 psi if possible. I definitely don't want to ever run more than 5 or 6 psi anyway.

I just like the turbo whistle LOL. And I have only 500 bucks into the whole turbo kit, tubing and fittings so far. And I just scavenged a Innovate wide band from my Rx-7 and put that in last night just so I can see what she is doing.

I can probably retard my timing a bit to help it out with such low boost.

I am not looking for big power. I honestly would be happy with 15 or 20 hp more.

Toys-n-Joys,

I am not sure what a Kimi Kit is. But I picked up the turbo on Amazon for 75 bucks and the FMU I have had sitting on my shelf for about eight years. I would most definitely like a standalone ECU but I am wanting to keep it cheep and low boost for now.

To tell you the truth I am realistic and since I have no form of timing control I may just loosen the wastegate so I can only develop around 3 or 4 psi if possible. I definitely don't want to ever run more than 5 or 6 psi anyway.

I just like the turbo whistle LOL. And I have only 500 bucks into the whole turbo kit, tubing and fittings so far. And I just scavenged a Innovate wide band from my Rx-7 and put that in last night just so I can see what she is doing.

I can probably retard my timing a bit to help it out with such low boost.

I am not looking for big power. I honestly would be happy with 15 or 20 hp more.

The part with the oem ecu that i don't like is the ecu looks for 14.7to1 for the desired air to fuel ratio. Thats a lil lean for a boosted car. So even if you have a fmu the ecu will change the fueling to give you 14to1 instead of 11to1.

I attached a picture below of the kimi kit. Yours sounds like a diy kit you fabricated yourself.

You can run 5psi or so but it wouldn't be as safe as 10psi with proper engine management. The weak link is the tune on these g16b. Your ecu thinks its a naturally aspirated engine even with the turbo installed the ecu doesn't know its there. If you can get a conservative tune and even add some knock control you can make it a stronger setup with more usable power.

Guys bend rods because detonation. A proper ecu can detect the detonation and stop it from destroying your engine.

You can loosen your distributor and retard it manually but you will loose alot of power. You dint want to retard the timing unless you are about to detonate. You need timing and boost to make power. If you take a bunch of timing and add boost you might not even make power. Depends on the cfm the turbo produces.

Thats why i like water meth so much. It cools intake charge, raises your octane to help protect the engine and you can run cheap 87 when you fill up but still have a octane rating over 100. Higher octane prevents detonation.

I completely agree with running the OEM ecu. It does look for 14.7 to 1. Standalone ECU is the way to go.

I have been running it and at idle and cruising speeds it keeps to that 14.7 ratio. However when I accelerate a bit it does richen up 12.5 to 1 under partial acceleration. I am running at 3psi now and currently I am also getting 13.2 to 1 for fuel at that pressure under WOT. Still a little lean over what I am looking for. For now my plan is to switch my FMU boost signal over to the turbo compressor port so it will give a little extra fuel and have it come on sooner.

But So far it is running great. I can start spooling up around 2200 to 2300 rpm. And the added torque is great. So good in fact I needed to put a new clutch disk and pressure plate in it last weekend. I was slipping in every gear.

I will say for those trying this to be very carful. Having a wideband is critical and go easy with any boost until you dial it in. And Standalone would be the smartest way to go for the price.

I am using the FMU because I had it laying around and it was free.

Secondly I have an issue with my timing that is probably keeping my engine safe as well.

Somehow my timing advance is locked. When I rev my motor with a timing light the timing mark on the pulley does not advance at all. It is stuck around 8 to 10 degrees. Note: I had this issue before I was turbo as well. It keeps me from revving higher than 5000 rpm.

Any ideas what would cause this? I have a new TPS and I don't have a jumper for the factory timing lock installed.

I am not sure what could cause this.

Though its not a big deal for me as just driving around town and on the trails it does just fine. It is not a race car. I have an rx7 for that....

Couple of things here, the TBI unit can only supply enough fuel for 3psi boost, even at max pressure, over about 65 or 70 psi and the injector will stop opening, I built a megasquirt and added 4 injectors to the 8v intake, stock ecu did cold start and idle, ms took over the boosted chores, you want more than 15 hp, boost is addictive, 10 psi will give you around 150 hp total, and is a blast to drive. I drilled and tapped the block, but too high, always had oil backing up in the turbo, lower the better for a drain. You really want a 16v for turbo, fuel is your biggest problem with the 8v. Cheers, wild