Hi just new to the board, in any case I have a 1999 4dr tracker, Calmini 2.5” suspension lift, warn hubs, new front axles with 2.0, now since the last off-road excursion my 30” tires in the rear jammed against my wheel wells thus getting myself stuck, so now ordered a 2” body lift with steering adaptor from rocky road so hoping that will solve that. Now what I want to do is two things;
1- delete the air actuator, I’ve read to tack weld the sliding ring so that’s cool but if I put in a locker or limited slip that would avoid pump and welding  wouldn’t it? If I’m removing the front end I might as well get the right front end, any suggestions?
2- gear reduction in the transfer case, does one really need it?

Cheers and thanks again

You can get rid of the actuator by swapping in a diff from an older Sidekick that doesn't use any actuators. This is the easiest way to simplify your front end, and it makes it easier to find a locker or LSD for the front too, because there are more options for Kicks than Vits.

T-case reduction is really nice to have if you are doing alot of technical, rocky, rooty wheeling, especially if you have a manual tranny. It will keep you from smoking your clutch when your low range is too fast in the rocks, and its easier on the brakes when you're crawling down steep, long mountain trails. They are probably still nice to have with an automatic but I have never owned an auto Zuk so I can't comment how that works.

You can get rid of the actuator by swapping in a diff from an older Sidekick that doesn't use any actuators. This is the easiest way to simplify your front end, and it makes it easier to find a locker or LSD for the front too, because there are more options for Kicks than Vits.

T-case reduction is really nice to have if you are doing alot of technical, rocky, rooty wheeling, especially if you have a manual tranny. It will keep you from smoking your clutch when your low range is too fast in the rocks, and its easier on the brakes when you're crawling down steep, long mountain trails. They are probably still nice to have with an automatic but I have never owned an auto Zuk so I can't comment how that works.

So you got me interested in the front diff, will the older ones bolt in or is there mods? Also assuming a gear change as well?