Can we please get a running list of who has a Lockright in their 1999+ Vitara/Grand Vitara/Tracker, and all of the model specifics, such as:

Year
Model
Transmission
Lockright part number
Third member (original or donor with all pertinent info)

??  This would be awesome, and maybe help me and others.  I've had problems with my Lockright in a 99 GV 5 speed with Sidekick third member.  It has never differentiated/ratcheted.  Mechanic error is not the problem, as it was setup and shipped to me by Trail Tough, and my local diff guy who works on Lockrights cannot get it to work either....

For my own sanity, I really need to know if anyone out there has a 1999 Grand Vitara 5 speed with a locker.

Many thanks to those who participate!!

2002
Tracker 4-door
2 liter engine
5 speed
1512-LR in a 4.88 diff gear cluster out of a 2001 Tracker (auto tranny) (the factory assembly sticker was still on it)

2001
GV 4 door
2.5L V6
5 speed
It's a rear out of a Sidekick with 5.12 gears and a lockright that came as one unit already set up from Brent at TT.

It ratchets predictably. Able to keep the ratcheting down by keeping pressure on the drivetrain.

Sorry I don't know the exact year and model number of my rear end and lockright. I knew that pretty much any rear from a Sidekick would work, and when I dropped off my "core"... I basically was handed an exchange, one that was already put together and ready to roll.

EDIT: I just had a thought... if your axle housing is not exactly... "square", I wonder if it would cause this.

2001
GV 4 door
2.5L V6
5 speed
It's a rear out of a Sidekick with 5.12 gears and a lockright that came as one unit already set up from Brent at TT.

It ratchets predictably. Able to keep the ratcheting down by keeping pressure on the drivetrain.

Sorry I don't know the exact year and model number of my rear end and lockright. I knew that pretty much any rear from a Sidekick would work, and when I dropped off my "core"... I basically was handed an exchange, one that was already put together and ready to roll.

EDIT: I just had a thought... if your axle housing is not exactly... "square", I wonder if it would cause this.

Interesting...there shouldn't be much difference, if any, between the 99 and 01.  Mine was also set up by Brent, and is a Sidekick with 5.12s.  Yeah...I've thought about the possibility of the axle housing being "not quite right."  Not sure why that would be the case, since I really didn't push the vehicle much offroad until after the Lockright was put in...hmmm...

I have a 2000, 2 door, auto, 2.0, 235 tires.

Lockright 1512. This model uses the stock side gears. Setup by West Coast Differentials - trusted experts.

Wont slip or ratchet at all.

Shapeshifter, just for the hell of it... have you tried coasting through a corner turn in neutral to unload your drive train just to see if your Lock Right will ratchet with no load?  If it would ratchet while coasting in neutral , it would appear this would validate the theory of your drive train keeps too much tension on your Lock Right to ratchet in turns.... IF it will ratchet in neutral while coasting through a turn.   Just a thought.

Shapeshifter, just for the hell of it... have you tried coasting through a corner turn in neutral to unload your drive train just to see if your Lock Right will ratchet with no load?  If it would ratchet while coasting in neutral , it would appear this would validate the theory of your drive train keeps too much tension on your Lock Right to ratchet in turns.... IF it will ratchet in neutral while coasting through a turn.   Just a thought.

I did a couple test at parking lot speed and it still does not slip.  I had my auto tranny in neutral but my Tcase was still in 4H so it didnt really completely unloaded the drive train.

I have not read anywhere that this is a malfunction, only that it "should" slip under "certain" conditions.  Nothing in text that definitively says it is not functioning correctly if it does not slip.  I dunno.  I owned a Lockright in a Dana 35 axle once and it slipped all the time.  I'll call the factory and see what they think.

Well worse case scenario ... you just end up burning a little more tread off the back tires.  If you run a 100K miles and have no other problems, and it pulls you where you want to go... then it's all good.   I'll be happy to get 100K out of mine without having to replace the springs and pins.

but if they don't slip it would be cheaper to weld the rear wouldn't it?

Lock Rights are more expensive than spools, but they normally function correctly and allow your tires to differentiate at different speeds in turns under low/no power.   I'm thinking it would be cheaper (long term) to put a spool in instead of welding the spyder gears for long term durability.  Welding the spyder gears does lock the rear end but after you have applied heat to the spyder gear/s you changed their tempering.  For a strictly off road wheeler welding is cost effective.  For a daily driver reliability would be more better with an actual spool, a Lock Rite or better yet an ARB, me thinks.