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My slow and painful build thread..

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Offline djjiz

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My slow and painful build thread..
« on: January 23, 2012, 01:47:01 PM »
Here's a little background to what I'm working with..
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/the-water-cooler/minnesota-gold/

Plans include a 2" driveway suspension lift including 1" of body, roll bar/ spare tire mount, and removing as much plastic as possible.

What shocks are recommended to maintain stock valving or close to it? I want this to be a comfortable ride and I don't see that happening with big body shocks..
I'll kiss your moms dildo for $10

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Offline Drone637

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2012, 08:37:36 PM »
If you have access to a welder you can move you stock shock mount up 2" to make up for the change in height.  Otherwise most people put on old Lincoln Town Car shocks.
96 Geo Tracker, x-SJ-410,  x-White Rabbit, x-Project Trouble
Crawlers NorthWest
x-Trouble Racing

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Offline mike5721947

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2012, 09:49:49 PM »
85-95 crown vic shocks NON police
95ish mustang shocks.
best ride is OME shocks

if your going to go with crown vic or mustang CHEAP OUT! get the cheap ones they dont recommend they will say they will have a bumpy ride, use them.
MONROE Part # 5961  Sensa-Trac
those are the ones for a crown vic. ran great till i blew one, but at 20 bucks a pop they are cheap to replace.
1990 Suzuki sidekick 2Dr Conv.
385,000 km and still going strong.
31" kumhos 3inchs of lift.

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Offline djjiz

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2012, 09:17:51 PM »
Went to remove the passenger side and found this.


Worst part was I also found this on my way to the parts store after I got into a position where I could'nt drive there.


Looking into moving upper bracket tomorrow.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2012, 09:29:43 PM by djjiz »
I'll kiss your moms dildo for $10

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Offline djjiz

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2012, 09:36:48 PM »
Is it normal for the brake lights to come on when I set the e brake? Its about 8-9 clicks out. No matter how much I bleed the brakes and go in reverse they never seem to self adjust and its kinda frustrating.
I'll kiss your moms dildo for $10

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Offline Drone637

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2012, 08:36:53 AM »
E-Brake runs off a cable setup that is separate from the normal brake system.  So bleeding the brakes won't really matter.  You might have to tighten up the cable if you aren't getting any tension. 

Go ahead and go to Acks Faq, check out Section 5 of the Tracker FSM Project:

http://www.acksfaq.com/trackerfsm.htm

Section 5F has the Parking Brake system:

http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-5F-pdf.htm
96 Geo Tracker, x-SJ-410,  x-White Rabbit, x-Project Trouble
Crawlers NorthWest
x-Trouble Racing

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Offline Rhinoman

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2012, 02:59:20 PM »
Is it normal for the brake lights to come on when I set the e brake? Its about 8-9 clicks out. No matter how much I bleed the brakes and go in reverse they never seem to self adjust and its kinda frustrating.

I don't think I've ever adjusted by ebrake cable - too many clicks in the lever usually means that the shoes are worn out
2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

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Offline bentparts

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2012, 03:55:19 PM »
Or the drums or both.
The usual stuff, and 2nd generation Air to liquid intercooled TURBOCHARGER

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Offline djjiz

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Re: My slow and painful build thread..
« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2012, 05:12:58 PM »
Bought pads, shoes, spring kit, rotors, and drums.. Hard part now is finding time to swap them out.
Thanks.
I'll kiss your moms dildo for $10