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Building shackles for YJ's

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Offline zuki1018

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Building shackles for YJ's
« on: November 23, 2011, 10:39:58 AM »


Soooo... i fabbed the rear spring mounts (for the front end) which are +3" over stock location.  Then I just figured a 6" shackle on the front would be more than enough length and the above is my result.  Of course it will droop like crazy but I do think I will be getting more of a bumpy ride this way.  As pictured I have about 2.5" of shock compress left to give.

Pro's and Cons to leaving as is?

How do you figure out what lengh of a shackle to make while on jack stands and all ...in order to get a good shackle angle?

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Offline ebattleon

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Re: Building shackles for YJ's
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2011, 05:11:09 PM »
You know shackles are on the Sammie are supposed to be vertical in orientation. As it it will be slamming up along the chassis often and most likely break off.

You could consider this for the longer springs.
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,86518.0.html
Common Sense Absent

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Offline mrfuelish

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Re: Building shackles for YJ's
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2011, 07:42:15 PM »
You missed the grade two and grade eight bolts making it a combined average of a grade five. Lol
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Offline zuki1018

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Re: Building shackles for YJ's
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2011, 07:29:23 AM »
Well I do have a beefy plate limiting the upper movement of it.  Similliar to the missing link.  In fact, thats what I started making at first and added the limiter.  I decided to hold off since I am not ready to deal with buying a new front driveshaft among other things with that much droop.

We drove it last night and it didnt seem to move much from the pictured angle over regular bumps in the road.  Its still bumpy but a FAR improovement over the 3" Calmini in SPOA config.  I have them on the rear still and you can really tell a difference from the front to rear hitting pot holes.



I thought you add the grades up giving me a combined grade 10? lol

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Offline FBJR

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Re: Building shackles for YJ's
« Reply #4 on: November 24, 2011, 09:01:18 AM »
As stated above, you have no way for the spring to flex without it binding. The shackle must be in a position were it can pivot either way freely. You basically have 2 fixed mounts now unless you get some extreme drop travel.

Also DOT regs say all suspension hardware must be grade 8 or better (metric 10.9)
I think I had a motorcycle that was heavier!!

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Offline swanson

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Re: Building shackles for YJ's
« Reply #5 on: November 28, 2011, 12:09:46 AM »
As stated above, you have no way for the spring to flex without it binding. The shackle must be in a position were it can pivot either way freely. You basically have 2 fixed mounts now unless you get some extreme drop travel.

Also DOT regs say all suspension hardware must be grade 8 or better (metric 10.9)

^^^ this man knows what he is talking about. shackle up against plate = no shackle movement= spring cant flex= broken springs.

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Offline Skyhiranger

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Re: Building shackles for YJ's
« Reply #6 on: November 29, 2011, 06:34:58 AM »


Soooo... i fabbed the rear spring mounts (for the front end) which are +3" over stock location.  Then I just figured a 6" shackle on the front would be more than enough length and the above is my result.  Of course it will droop like crazy but I do think I will be getting more of a bumpy ride this way.  As pictured I have about 2.5" of shock compress left to give.

Pro's and Cons to leaving as is?

How do you figure out what lengh of a shackle to make while on jack stands and all ...in order to get a good shackle angle?


It will ride pretty crappy, with the shackles sitting against the frame like that, since the spring can't really flex upwards.
If you shorten the shackle, it may give it enough of an angle that it will sit off the frame like it is supposed to (a shorter shackle will actually be more vertical than a longer one).
You could also make up some missing links with upper shackles that are 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the ones you have now and that should put your shackle at an acceptable angle.
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