I had a few moments late last night after I installed a new targa and a hard top to do some checking at the fuse block. I pulled the main fuse and both headlights went out which I expected. Then I placed the main fuse back into the block and pulled both R / L headlight fuses indivdually. To my amazement no change that occured. I would have thought that once the fuse was pulled for either one that particular side would go out because the circuit should be broken.

Is this normal or is the Gremlin lurking behind the fuse block awaiting my arrival if I remove the block?

Is there a work around without removing the block?

I don't have any type of testor (voltage or OHM) but have enough friends that do if I need to locate one.

Once I locate the problem and repair it can someone tell me more about how to wire in relays? I like the way that sounds...

Thanks in advance for those who are willing to locate a Cyber Hand!!!  

If I read your post as I normally would (be warned, I do tech support for a living) - it says you pulled the main fuse, and the headlights went out, and then you pulled the R & L fuses one at a time, and the headlights stayed out - which is what I expect to happen.

On the other hand - reading between the lines, I suspect you put the main fuse back and the lights came back on (and never mention it) before pulling the individual fuses and that when you say no change occured, you actually mean the lights stayed on - whiich is not what you expect, but which is actually correct.

Try it again, but do it at night, you should find that the headlamp you removed the fuse from is not as bright as the other.

Fordem... add mind reader to your list of qualifications along with Tech Support.

I modified my post after your reply.... maybe it makes a tad bit more sense.

In the begining my drivers side headlight was dim and the passenger side was bright. During the "test" last night this remained the same while removing the indiviual lamp fuses. There was no visable change with the fuses in or out.

It was as black as the Ace of Spades outside where the vehicle was sitting with the headlights on..

(note I said outside where the vehicle was sitting with the headlights on.) I say this because in my earlier post I did say last night however didn't define that I had the headlights on in the dark. (Just funnin ya some I knew what you meant too...) and I appreciate you setting me straight with your reply...

Anyway, as I said I thought there would be some visable change to the headlights when removing the individual fuses. There was none.

I am pretty sure that I will end up removing the block. Unless there is some other magic to brighten up the drivers side light correctly.

If I remove the block what might I expect to find? How are the wires attached to the firewall side? Is the soda method previously described a reliable method or is there a better method?

Tux - you have some sort of bad connection somewhere .

I would start with the headlight bulbs themselves - verify that they are both the same type and also the correct type - if necessary swap them from side to side and see if the problem transfers with the bulb.  The reason I am suggesting this is that I believe there are two different bulbs which physically interchange but the base wiring is different - we don't use the same bulbs as you do - and you will get that always dim symptom that you describe.

I also have to confess I've never worked on a Sammi's electricals so I don't know what you'll find - I just have the experience that I can sketch the circuit from the diagram and then add in the current flow and tell you what to expect if a given fuse is removed or a wire cut.  Ask me specific questions about a Swift or a GV I can answer those, I've hand wired looms for kit cars, sat down and repaired auto tranny harnesses after a dog attacked them, I can find my way around a schematic and in many cases around the vehicle without the schematic - and there is no question - I could fix your truck if I was standing next to it.

Somewheres you are back feeding your light circuits, either a bad ground, or a added in piece of aftermarket electrical equipment.

Electrical issues are very hard to diagnose and troubleshoot remotely, it is entirely a hands-on job. 

Fordem, I appreciate you and the others trying to lend a hand! I have switched the Halogen headlights from side to side previously and it made no difference the drivers side stayed dim and the passenger side bright no matter what headlight was there. This holds true to low beams as well.

I did check try different OEM style headlights which made no difference. I have also cleaned all of the vehicle grounds that I could find previously as enhancement maintenance for an older off road vehicle.... I did this approxamately 4 months ago. I bought this vehicle a year ago and have been doing alot of upgrades along the way. I have pretty much gone through most every nook & cranny with the exception of the engine / tranny / differentials.

It is an 87 and has been driven both on and off road with moderate maintenace along the way. I guess I am saying this to give folks an idea that it was necessary by my standards to inspect / remove / clean / repair items as what I call precautionary maintenance and for me to familiarize myself with what I wanted to / needed to do to get me where I ultimately want to be. (Were getting there)

I am mecahnical enough to do the work as I have built lots of 4wd vehicles, retored Corvettes, work in a machine shop. If given the right info and a good starting point I believe I will get this repaired with no problem.

You guys are a BIG HELP and as time permits I will tackle and KILL this Gremlin!!!

THANKS GUYS!!!   

you could just use a Bosche 30amp relay to fire the headlights and simply bypass your existing wiring.

How do I wire the relay into the headlamp switch circuitry? Can I utilize the existing hot wire for that particular headlamp?

First you need to make sure your combination switch is working properly, go to ack's faqs and download the electrical FSM, then use a meter to check the switch for proper operation.

If one side of the lights work properly, which is what I think is happening, then the combination switch will be fine - it controls both lights - the problem has to be either the feed to the lights or the wiring in between the lights.

You'll need a volt meter to work on this.

Hook the black meter lead to the battery negative and use the red meter lead to probe the head lights connectors - you can usually ease the socket back a little so that it stays on the lamp base, but shows enough of the three connectors that you reach them with the probe.

There are three wires behind each head light - red and red/white on both, and white/red on the right side and white/blue on the left.

With the headlights ON probe the white/red and white/blue wires - you should see the same voltage on both and it should be close to 12V - if it's not check the headlight fuses and the wiring from the fuse panel to the headlights.

Select low beam - probe the red/white wire on both lights - you should see the same voltage on both and it should be close to 0V - if it's not check the wiring between the headlights - they are connected to one another and to the combo switch.

Select high beam - probe the red wire on both lights - you should see the same voltage on both and it should be close to 0V - if it's not check the wiring between the headlights - they are connected to one another and to the combo switch.

If you run into trouble let me know which step didn't have the right voltage - close to 12V is anything between 11 & 13, close to OV - up to 1V is acceptable - for the purposes of this test.