What does anyone know about the KAD driveshafts from RRO???  I have a 3" lift mite go to a 4.5" will these be good if i ever decide to go higher on lift?

Also how do they compare to CV style driveshafts?

If your not breaking driveshafts or having your driveline fall out I don't think jumping up to the larger driveshaft will be that much of an advantage.  I run a SPOA lift and don't have any issues with a stock driveline.  On the front when I switched to a RUF conversion I just put in a 2" driveline spacer.  If you need some extra space and don't want to use a spacer check with Low Range Off Road or Trail Tough, they sell extended slip yokes that might be exactly what you need.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/drivelines-spacers/1-and-2-extended-slip-yokes.html

If your not breaking driveshafts or having your driveline fall out I don't think jumping up to the larger driveshaft will be that much of an advantage.  I run a SPOA lift and don't have any issues with a stock driveline.  On the front when I switched to a RUF conversion I just put in a 2" driveline spacer.  If you need some extra space and don't want to use a spacer check with Low Range Off Road or Trail Tough, they sell extended slip yokes that might be exactly what you need.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/drivelines-spacers/1-and-2-extended-slip-yokes.html

Yes i understand.

I have some play in my rear driveshaft where the spines meet, im planning on rebuilding all drivetrain components and beefing them up as i go along, pretty much everthing except the motor (since this was just rebuilt).  I know i will be going overboard and maybe its too much but i would like to have the piece of mind know that when i go through everything it will be improved over stock specs.

Im not sure if i will change out the front ds but since i will be driving this alot in 2wd also i would like all rear wheel drive components to be extra strong. Im also planning on either rebuilding my t case or sending it in to TT to switch it out for a rebuilt 4.16 transfer case. Also rebuilding rear diff with locker, and anything else in the axle department that needs to be addressed.  Planning on rebuilding the tranny as well with all newbearings and installing the sloppy shifter fix.

I just wanted to know if im gonna spend the money on a beefier ds should i get the CV style joints.....?

Switching to the CV style joint is usually done if your short on space and need the higher angle.  You will also need to change your rear end a bit, it needs to point directly at the transfer case instead of keeping both U-Joints at the same angle.



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There is a good tech article on drivelines over at http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index2.html

If your not breaking driveshafts or having your driveline fall out I don't think jumping up to the larger driveshaft will be that much of an advantage.  I run a SPOA lift and don't have any issues with a stock driveline.  On the front when I switched to a RUF conversion I just put in a 2" driveline spacer.  If you need some extra space and don't want to use a spacer check with Low Range Off Road or Trail Tough, they sell extended slip yokes that might be exactly what you need.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/drivelines-spacers/1-and-2-extended-slip-yokes.html

After considering what you said and talking to a few others that said the same thing, i am not planning on changing out my driveshafts unless they break.  I will however buy the Japeneese u joints when mine wear out and probably the slip yoke.  Instead of spending money on patrs that work fine now i will put it into fixing problems that exist now and focus on that.

Thanks for all your info, it explains alot.