Posting here as the other section is dead!

After 210000 miles in my 2005 Toyota, I've gotten bored.  I was gonna get another one like I have, but decided something new might be in order.

Been doing a lot of reading on the sammi and I've decided as much as I like em... The mpg in the gas ones isn't something I can live with.  Some months I only drive 1-2k miles, other months I'll do 7-8.  Obviously at 20 mpg and a lack of interstate speeds, that wouldn't work.

But the diesel... The diesel seems to be just what I want.  About the same hp/tq as what I'm in now, better mileage, and it'll prolly tow my quad around better than my car does.

I can tolerate the Spartan nature of it, I can tolerate a ride that will shake your kidneys out.  My only requirements are reliability, a/c, tin top, and fuel mileage.

Are the diesel Sammis capable of delivering?

Id probably run a set of 31s, offset wheels, bumpers and guards (parking lot protection mainly), safari rack, HIDs, and I would coat, sound proof, and seal the crap out of it. (gets rid of nearly all the creaks and squeaks)

Is there an alternator option capable of running in dash navi, 600 watt amp (gotta have my mb quart components), and extra lighting?

Just looking for some advice on the vehicle... Or even where to find what I'm looking for if it will work.

Are the vw diesels reliable?

Keep in mind, while I live in the middle of nowhere, the only time this thing will see more offroad than my driveway is during hurricanes.

Well you asked a mouthfull there, probably a reason there haven't been many replies yet.  I'll share my two bits but I am by no means a seasoned veteran on Sammis like some of the gurus in this forum...

first thought is all the sound deadening and electronics you are going to add inside.  Spartan is the term that best describes a good Samurai in my book, drain plugs out, no carpet, Rhino lined inside so you can just wash it out with a hose.  While you can do a GM alternator conversion and get your amps up to run all that stuff, unless you get a tin top, there is still that big ol canvas top that doesn't block a lot of outside noise or provide much security.  I guess you could try to hide it all, out of sight out of mind...

From what I have read the VW TDI is a great swap, but it takes a little work.  By far the most common and best bang for the buck motor swap will be the zuki 1.6l 8v or 16v injected motors.  Maybe a little better MPG but much more power for the little rig without adding any weight.


There are many threads on the Deisel conversion, just do some searching and you will find what you need...

I gathered it was garbled as I was typing it.  Late nights recently.

That's one reason for the hard top or tin top, security.  My vehicles always have valuables in them, and usually a firearm or two.  Soft tops are too risky.

The carpet would be removed and the interior and portions of the exterior would be linexed. 

My hope was to find a unit with the swap done.  Reason being, I wanna get the vehicle, sell my existing one, and have a fair amount of money left over to throw at it.  Hids and a heavy bumper are a must (suicidal deer). The nav system, eh... I need a new radio anyways, may get one I like.

Figured I'd set it up like everything else I have, simple basic mods that improve reliability and functionality.  The biggest tires and lift aren't important to me. 

Everyone keeps mentioning the 1.6 swap... Do units with that swap see decent fuel mileage on 30s or 31s? I'd really like something with minimal lift, a slightly larger tire, that gets good mpg.

You might need a  slight Tcase re-gear for 31's (4.9 or 5.14) and keep close to stock gear ratios, check out LowRange for a nice chart - http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/transfer-case.html

I'm in the middle of the 6.4 regear for 32" myself.

I can't really speak to MPG in real world numbers yet.  I'm also going through the 1.6 8v swap right now so I'll have some numbers hopefully in a month or so.  Surely someone else can give you an idea of MPG though.  I think its still in the mid to low 20's.

If you had a local CNG filling station you could consider a natural gas conversion for 78 cents a liquid gallon fuel!    However its costly to do the conversion and the tanks are friggin huge.

Sorry I completely missed the requirement for a tintop... you have the right idea there...

So I take it 6:5 1 is going to be geared very very low for 31s? Like 65 in fifth at 5k rpm?

No, your high gears are a different ratio than your low gears.  the lows are 181% reduction for crawling, but the highs are only a 17% reduction to make up the difference of the taller tires.  On the hwy at speed the RPM should be about the same as OEM.  Thats the beauty of just re gearing the tcase.

I really hate being your only input here, please someone else step in and let me know if I'm giving up the right info.  I've been in cramming in Samurai info over the past 2-3 months myself... I think I'm giving you good feedback but I'm a newbie too...

here is a good gearing calculator :
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
according to this with stock ring & pinion with 31" tires and an early Sami, the 6.5 t-case gears will have you running 3500ish rpm at 65mph.
When putting this much gearing into the t-case then a person should read this by Trail Tough - http://trailtough.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:gears&catid=36:techinfo&Itemid=60

According to the manufactures here are the numbers they are claiming...
The 6.5 t-case has a 20% reduction in high range and a 187% in low.
The 6.4 t-case has a 17% reduction in high range and a 181% in low.
The 5.14 t-case has a 18.3% reduction in high range and a 127% in low.
The 4.9 t-case has a 16% reduction in high range and a 115% in low.
The 4.89 t-case has a 18% reduction in high range and a 115% in low.
The 4.16 t-case has a 12% reduction in high range and a 84% in low.

According to this :
http://www.lepayne.com/gears.html
if you are running stock ring and pinion with 31" tires, to get back close to stock ratio you need to run the Petroworks 4.89 t-case gears to get you at -1% difference from stock in high range.
If the 31" tires are really closer to being a 30" tire, then the 4.9 t-case should put you closer to stock spec.
Kinda splitting hairs at this pint.

I also am not an expert but here are some good tools to find out some info on gearing and tires.
Alot of experience on here, I am sure more people will chime in.