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Trackick rust

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Offline dennisl

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Trackick rust
« on: March 26, 2011, 01:20:24 PM »
I have a 97 Tracker that is completely rust free and would like to keep it that way. Where does everyone see their Trackick's rust out.

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Offline bentparts

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2011, 03:41:02 PM »
Anywhere moisture can in and not dry out. Under the front carpets, under the battery, body mounts especially in the rear. If you have a rust free rig, keeping it clean and maintained should keep it that way. If the paint gets scratched off anywhere leaving bare metal clean and paint.
The usual stuff, and 2nd generation Air to liquid intercooled TURBOCHARGER

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Offline TopHeavy96

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2011, 10:55:28 PM »
My 4-door has rust around the front strut mounts, over the rear wheel wells, and big holes in the rockers and both body mounts in front of the rear wheels.   My buddy's 2-door kick is rusted out in the front where the forward-most crossmember is welded to the frame rail, and around the floor under his rear seat(Fixing his frame with two pieces of box tubing for the frame rails, and a piece of round to replace the crossmember).
96' Tracker 4-door, 16v, auto, open front, limited slip rear, Jeff1997's 2" lift with diff spacer, 95' mustang shocks, Calmini axle truss, BFG 30x9.5 mud-terrains on 15x8 "D"-windows, trimmed and banged fenders and bumpers, radio shack CB, Tom Tom GPS, 100w KC lights
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1097549855954

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Offline beagle..t

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2011, 07:10:07 PM »
mine just started too rust on the rockers ...now i will make sliders like BRD HNTR but rear wheel wells and ya under battery
new rig aka "the mule" 2002 tracker
V6 swap auto  ,2 dr ,2" BL,2" jeffs kit 512 gears warn hubs and 30/9.5/15 BFG AT

Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2011, 07:53:05 AM »
 Where is rusted out at? Hmm. The low spot of the rear floor where the floor goes up to make the upright that goes under the rear seat, both sides, normal next-to-last-crossmember rusted out, replaced with sch. 40 pipe,  passenger side rocker, GONE all the way fromthe front fender to the rear quarter, both rear seat belt attachemnt points located by your hip, the bracket that keeps the rear seat from flopping around, rotted loose, area right behind the drivers side strut tower "pocket" under the hood, rusted out all the way back to the firewall, and down to the frame, piece located behind the grill, that runs vertically and ties to the lower valance, rotted at both ends, body tub under the tailgate where the wiring goes through, just about gone. Probably some more that I haven't seen yet, I'll wager.  Poor little rust bucket.  :P   The crazy thing is, almost all of the nuts and bolts still undo with out too much arguing ( soak them in some PB Blaster for a couple of days, and get happy with the 3/8" drive stuff. ).

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Offline dennisl

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #5 on: March 28, 2011, 05:51:30 PM »
Where is rusted out at? Hmm. The low spot of the rear floor where the floor goes up to make the upright that goes under the rear seat, both sides, normal next-to-last-crossmember rusted out, replaced with sch. 40 pipe,  passenger side rocker, GONE all the way fromthe front fender to the rear quarter, both rear seat belt attachemnt points located by your hip, the bracket that keeps the rear seat from flopping around, rotted loose, area right behind the drivers side strut tower "pocket" under the hood, rusted out all the way back to the firewall, and down to the frame, piece located behind the grill, that runs vertically and ties to the lower valance, rotted at both ends, body tub under the tailgate where the wiring goes through, just about gone. Probably some more that I haven't seen yet, I'll wager.  Poor little rust bucket.  :P   The crazy thing is, almost all of the nuts and bolts still undo with out too much arguing ( soak them in some PB Blaster for a couple of days, and get happy with the 3/8" drive stuff. ).

WOW  do you drive submerged in salt water? lol

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Offline horseman

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2011, 08:17:40 PM »
There is a product called Waxoyl.  It is a spray that is wax and oil mix and you can spray it into the doors and body panels to keep rust away.   There are other products like it.  Some guys simply spray in regular motor oil into the door and panels but then it drips for a few days after.  I think any oil would work.  Even canola oil or mineral oil.   Linseed oil.   I use those types of oil to rust proof the products that I blacksmith.   Sometimes I even mix up some beeswax and linseed oil.   I suppose something like that would probably help keep rust away.   It would take regular upkeep on some parts but once the stuff is inside the panels and doors I imagine it would keep working for quite a long time.   I plan on doing something to my Samurai this spring since it is pretty rust free also and don't want it to start.

Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2011, 07:57:24 AM »
Where is rusted out at? Hmm. The low spot of the rear floor where the floor goes up to make the upright that goes under the rear seat, both sides, normal next-to-last-crossmember rusted out, replaced with sch. 40 pipe,  passenger side rocker, GONE all the way fromthe front fender to the rear quarter, both rear seat belt attachemnt points located by your hip, the bracket that keeps the rear seat from flopping around, rotted loose, area right behind the drivers side strut tower "pocket" under the hood, rusted out all the way back to the firewall, and down to the frame, piece located behind the grill, that runs vertically and ties to the lower valance, rotted at both ends, body tub under the tailgate where the wiring goes through, just about gone. Probably some more that I haven't seen yet, I'll wager.  Poor little rust bucket.  :P   The crazy thing is, almost all of the nuts and bolts still undo with out too much arguing ( soak them in some PB Blaster for a couple of days, and get happy with the 3/8" drive stuff. ).

WOW  do you drive submerged in salt water? lol


Nah. My tracker spent 10-11 YEARS sitting next to the cleanout pile at a horse barn, then it spent a couple more years sitting next to a wood fence that happen to go through the low spot inthe yard and always had some kind of standing/running water in it. All of this because the fuel pump went out, and then the mice/rats moved in. But, what do you expect for a $30 ride, with a good title?  :-*

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Offline dennisl

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2011, 11:05:27 AM »
There is a product called Waxoyl.  It is a spray that is wax and oil mix and you can spray it into the doors and body panels to keep rust away.   There are other products like it.  Some guys simply spray in regular motor oil into the door and panels but then it drips for a few days after.  I think any oil would work.  Even canola oil or mineral oil.   Linseed oil.   I use those types of oil to rust proof the products that I blacksmith.   Sometimes I even mix up some beeswax and linseed oil.   I suppose something like that would probably help keep rust away.   It would take regular upkeep on some parts but once the stuff is inside the panels and doors I imagine it would keep working for quite a long time.   I plan on doing something to my Samurai this spring since it is pretty rust free also and don't want it to start.

This Waxoyl sounds like the product I use from Eastwood. It smells like beeswax and stays pliable.

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Offline dennisl

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #9 on: March 29, 2011, 11:07:11 AM »
Where is rusted out at? Hmm. The low spot of the rear floor where the floor goes up to make the upright that goes under the rear seat, both sides, normal next-to-last-crossmember rusted out, replaced with sch. 40 pipe,  passenger side rocker, GONE all the way fromthe front fender to the rear quarter, both rear seat belt attachemnt points located by your hip, the bracket that keeps the rear seat from flopping around, rotted loose, area right behind the drivers side strut tower "pocket" under the hood, rusted out all the way back to the firewall, and down to the frame, piece located behind the grill, that runs vertically and ties to the lower valance, rotted at both ends, body tub under the tailgate where the wiring goes through, just about gone. Probably some more that I haven't seen yet, I'll wager.  Poor little rust bucket.  :P   The crazy thing is, almost all of the nuts and bolts still undo with out too much arguing ( soak them in some PB Blaster for a couple of days, and get happy with the 3/8" drive stuff. ).

That would do it. but the other 2 or 3 thousand you didn't spend should go a long way toward making it better.

WOW  do you drive submerged in salt water? lol


Nah. My tracker spent 10-11 YEARS sitting next to the cleanout pile at a horse barn, then it spent a couple more years sitting next to a wood fence that happen to go through the low spot inthe yard and always had some kind of standing/running water in it. All of this because the fuel pump went out, and then the mice/rats moved in. But, what do you expect for a $30 ride, with a good title?  :-*

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Offline dennisl

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #10 on: March 29, 2011, 11:08:14 AM »
Thx everyone for the Ideas. guess now I have to get busy and do something about it! ::)

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Offline dennisl

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Re: Trackick rust
« Reply #11 on: April 10, 2011, 09:47:58 AM »
Just for all who are interested. I tore down my tracker looking for rust. Didn't find any  but the lower front fenders had a lot of mud built up in them. When I cleaned them out the factory coating had prevented any rust from forming. Also completely removed the stock plastic rocker guards as they are a  great place for dirt and mud to collect as well. The rockers are also loose enough to allow abrasion on the paint . I treated everything with a waxy anticorrosion product from eastwood or undercoating.