I chased a loss power for 3months.I finally found the timing belt pulley lose.I put a new woodruff key&timing pulley in and over tighten the bolt.I runs great know.I hope this help someone else.See the big groove?

Yep, that is a classic issues on these things. Did you RE-torque it to the revised spec of 96lb/ft? I went ahead and did mine before I even tried to get it to run. Glad to hear that the crank didn't get chewed in the mean time.

The crank got chew up some .I installed a woodruff key & over tighten bolt .I have a rebuilt short block to put in it if it happens second time.

I'm gonna hijack your thread for a second here    What was your MOS, going by your handle brownshoe?   I was an Airframer, composite specialist, AIMD, most of the time.

This same thing happened to my 1.3L.

I had 2 plans of attack;
          1st I tried (and its still holding) "Grey" Loctite. Its the one that fills small voids and is
               made for these situations.

          2nd If this didn't work, I was going to have a new woodruff key slot cut in the existing
                crank 180 degrees opposite the original key way. This way you would then just
                mark the "drive" sprocket for future belt replacements.

But,  I didn't have a Rebuilt Short Block sitting in the "Bull Pen"

CAPT

Can I withstand the urge to respond to this thread???


NO!


Airdale:

What you have experienced is, unfortunately, something very common with the G13 and G16 engines (and any other engine with a simliarly-designed crankshaft accessory pully assembly).  Oddly enough, it actually isn't a design flaw, it is more of a READ THE EFFIN' FSM  or a DO YOU HAVE CLUE WHAT YOU ARE DOIN'?  problem.  

The person to blame is usually the A-H mechanic  who "tries" to change the timing belt.  One could also group Zuk owners into the mechanic pool, but the harshness of my words might not be suitable for my fellow Zukers...

Here is a link to a post I created at Zuwharrie.com detailing the correct process of removing the crankshaft pulley in an effort to remove the timing belt cover and timing belt itself:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,89816.0.html

You can also find it by doing a search for timing belt, crankshaft or pulley at Ack's FAQ.

I hope that this helps!

Again I have "Pissed in your Post Tosties" here guys,

First off what the hell is FSM?  I am not a internet guru and have not caught on to all these abbreviations yet!
Next, I didn't cause the problem, it just happened, I found what was wrong,
and my cure is working, Yes/ No?!!

SO CUT ME A LITTLE SLACK HERE BUDDY!! THIS SITE ISN'T FOR THE "KNOW IT ALLS"........ IF YOU HAVE A BETTER
IDEA JUMP IN THE WATERS FINE!!

CAPT

AMEN CAPT.I think someone should watch his P&Qs.Or should'nt of had some many P&Qs. I'm not a A_H!

My infinite apologies if I have offended anyone.  Any negative commentary is only directed at those persons actually responsible for such an act of poor maintenence - which may not be anyone who has posted in this thread.  (If such is not the case, then you have just "outted" youself. Fortunately, the only one who would actually know you've been "outted" is yourself    )

That said -

FSM stands for Factory Service Manual which is widely (and freely) available on the Internet.  A particular website comes to mind...  

This topic comes up far too often and has become rather a crusade for me.

Please understand that I have actually SEEN 5 engines that have died a premature death at the hands of someone (quite often a someone who should have known better...) who thought that the crankshaft pulley was held in place by the prominent crankshaft timing gear bolt.  The number of repaired crankshafts are legion based on the number of posts on the topic found in Zuk forums around the world. The "dirty deed-doer" ultimately discovers the error of his/her ways but neglects to reseat the crank bolt properly.   Thus, the engine crankshaft is destroyed and the engine - along with the rest of the perfectly-good Samurai/Sidekick/Tracker/Vitara - ends up in the salvage yard.

I personally put $600 into an otherwise perfect '93 Sidekick 4-door 4wd that I picked up for next to nothing 5 years ago.  The fix was - at the time - well worth the money but not every damaged crankshaft vehicle is so lucky.

Please-please-please understand that there are only so many of these engines in existance.  As a Suzuki owner, it is good stewardship to understand all their foibles and try to learn from those that preceed you.

It would be very simple for me to just keep my piehole shut and let you, Dear Reader, have an Epic Fail on your own.  I (and many others in the Zuking community all over the world) cannot allow that to happen.  That is why we share our knowledge so that you will succeed!

Again, my infinite apologies if I offended anyone who has posted in this thread.

May your Post Toasties never get peed upon is my sincerest  wish!

Most Cordially,  

-Ack

Airdale Navy,

Not that I am Cussing You and calling you an "Irishman" to know what P's & Q's
is originally for. Thanks for your Support.

CAPT

PS Ack, your apology is accepted!!

Any other symptoms besides a loss of power? I dont have a gob of power. Is there a noise that might be associated with this that I could listen for maybe?

the easiest way to spot a wallowed keyway problem as described originally a the top of this post is to try to shake the crank accessory pulley with your hand.  If there is ANY play, there is a problem.  The pulley will also shake visibly as the engine runs.

Other causes of power loss include a plugged catalytic converter, low engine compression and the need for a basic engine tuneup.

[Edit: Also vacuum leaks and a cracked cast iron exhaust manifold.]

I hope that this helps!

Just an Idea,

If you think you are in the very early stages of "Shits Going Bad", Throw a timing light on and watch the marks on the Drive Pulley, As the dist. is driven off the other end of the Cam Shaft, your timing will be "Floating" and won't show Constant
reading. Then its the time to check the Timing Belt Drive sprocket, and/or belt.

CAPT

UPDATE ,I when for 18 MPG to 23MPG.And lot more power!

Exellent!

Great news, airdale navy!