Those look perfect frodem any idea on specs or retailer?

I have no idea - it was literally the first image of a clevis that a Google search threw out - Here's the site it came from.

Damn...and I was actually thinking about using a clevis at first. I even had one in my hand at first too until the guy at the hot-rod shop suggested I just use a heim joint and a pin, since it would have the right offset so i wouldn't need to drill another hole and it would work for factory a-arms too. Plus it most closely matched the design of the original balljoint too. Which brings up a question, then wouldn't the original balljoint tilt too because it's not a direct connection, but a balljoint?
Shoot you're on to something there. I may just go back to that. The only thing I'd have to change is drilling a hole directly below the sway bar. Drilling another hole wouldn't be possible for the factory stamped steel a-arms though.
Thanks

Some more thinking.  The problem with the clevis is unfortunately if I bolt that to the a-arm, the slot will not be parallel with the sway bar.  I'd need to make sure that the slot was wide enough to allow some "tilt" back and forth as the suspension cycles up and down (the angle of the a-arm will change and therefore the angle of the clevis will change too). 
I do think the idea of the clevis is better than what I've got, as it would better secure the pin.  Just going to have to try to find the right size.

how about.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heim-Joints-Rod-Ends3-8-Female-Rod-End-Stud-JamNut-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35b1568d9aQQitemZ230608506266QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts#ht_500wt_926


this might be a good compromise.

how about.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heim-Joints-Rod-Ends3-8-Female-Rod-End-Stud-JamNut-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem35b1568d9aQQitemZ230608506266QQptZRaceQ5fCarQ5fParts#ht_500wt_926


this might be a good compromise.

That would be a great replacement for the factory joints...but I'm trying to make it a quick disconnect no-tools-required sort of thing.  That would secure it properly just like the original link, but would still require you to unbolt it to disconnect.
Thanks though

djlantis57 - the issue with the heim and the pin is not the "line of thrust", but the fact that the pin is not fixed to the heim and especially the swaybar.

Try this - find a bolt (preferrably with full thread) that fits the hole in the sway bar closely, put it through the hole and pull it tight and the holding the very end of the bolt "wiggle it", I'll bet it moves - now find a nut and run it down the bolt and tighten it down so that the end of the sway bar is held tightly betwene the head of the bolt and the nut - I'll bet you can't wiggle it now!

Think about this now - how much force did it take to wiggle the bolt without the nut?  How much force do you think the sway bar exerts?

Jluck - that can work - but if you're going to go that route, then you might as well stick with the OEM style end link, which will outlast the heim.  The way I understand it, what we're trying to achieve here is a quick disconnect link - pull the pins and tie the sway bar back, rather than grab two wrenches and unbolt the end link.