I either am not phrasing the search query correctly, or, it simply doesn't exsist: What is the plug gap for a 1.6 8 Valve  suppossed to be? I tried looking for the following: plug gap, tune up, tune up requirements, 1.6 8valve tune up, etc... Oh, and while I am at it, anybody happen to know what the bolts are supposed to be that hold the lower part of the exhaust manifold to the head? I  am missing the front lower 2 on the 1.6 Thanks up front as always, gang.

(excuse my phraseology - have been reading Sherlock Holmes all afternoon...)

Ah, dear Trackasaurouswrex, you are searching in the wrong place...

Despite the excellent content here at Zukiworld.com, a better place to search would have been Ack's FAQ.

There is a fairly-complete Factory Service Manual for a '96 Tracker there.  Although it does not contain information specifically for the 8-valve engine, much of the specifications also apply in certain areas like the spark gap which is .028 inches (.71mm)  If there is a difference, it is probably small enough to get you by.

Also, my reply - if wrong - will be amply corrected by those who A) have access to the information and B) like to - deservedly - put me in my place occasionally.

Concerning the manifold bolts:
When I have this problem I simply remove an easy-to-get-at bolt from somewhere else on the manifold flange and take it to the hardware store to find a suitable replacement.  The only way that you might screw up is that you pick a bolt that is not the right length - most likely too long.  Just go back to the hardware store and find a shorter bolt. 

It is cheaper to do this than to wait for somebody to send you a bolt that might - or might not fit.  You also don't have to wait for someone to reply like I am doing now.  Sure, there is an argument that an OEM bolt is the ultimate choice.  However, most hardware stores carry Grade 8 bolts - which I understand are up to the task...

Not be taken too seriously, I remain

Ah, yes. Enter the mighty Ack-FAQ.  Ever have one of those moments that just pretty much says " Feel free to smack me for my not thinking this through."? THIS is one of them. Thanks for the mental kickstart. As for the bolt, well, I am worried that the ones there are still there "might" decide to part ways in 2 different directions from the rust/heat that this thing has seen over the years. I have checked the spots for the missing bolts, and they are indeed, missing, NOT snapped off like I had been concerned about.

Get rid of all the bolts and replace them with studs, then put
stainless nuts and washers on them, you will not have trouble
again with rusted fasteners that won't let go, and the aluminum
in the head will survive better without bolts going in and out

Wild

Wild, I def. agree with the change over to stud type hardware for the manifold, but, I am concerned that the remaining bolts are going to snap off before they actually come out. All this thing has to do is stay together until winter, at which point it is going to be yanked in favor of a different engine.

OK, then if you have to remove the bolts replace them, but if
you are going to replace the engine soon, wait to stud out the
new engine's head.

As I was building the turbo manifold I noticed the threads getting
looser as I put bolts in and out, so I decided to fix the issue before
it became a real problem.

Also if you happen to pull threads out you can repair the hole with
either a Heli-Coil or a special stud that has the next bigger size on
half of the stud and the stock size on the other, just loc-tite in
and call it fixed

Wild

 I am hoping that the only thing happened to the missing bolts is that they simply worked loose, then fell out ( please let it be something this simple....  NOT the other possibilty.) I hear you on the Heli-coil fix. I got SO tired of having to do those and riv-nuts on aircraft in the Service. The new engines' heads are being heli-coiled and studded to forgo ANY headaches when I get them back from the shop. So, any thoughts on the thread pitch/dia. of the missing bolts... ?  10/1.25 or 10/1.5 or something ELSE retarded on the pitch. The last hardware that I need for this Suzi motor I had to get from Fastenal and the damn shipping cost over $6 for 3 nuts that only cost 0.35.

just replace them with 8m 1.25 studs and red loc-tite that will do it