Hey guys been getting some intrest on V6 hop ups.

Im going to be doing a H25 to H27 conversion kit.

Under Drive Crank Pulley.

Air intake Tube not cold air

Electric fan shroud with fan and thermo switch in lower engine pipe.

Honda 68mm Throtle body adapter kit for Oem rear cross over.

If anything appeals to people post up. I will be doing some work soon.

Some proof of the power.

2001 Suzuki Grand vitara.

2" lift on 29" BFG
H27 Long tubes
Intake and exhaust
Crank Pulley
Electric fan
Front skid plate
Rear trailer hitch
Rear stereo

Grand Vitara with H27

This vid at the track was

2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara
H25 long tubes
Intake and exhaust
Crank Pulley
Electric fan
2.5" lowered
18x8 Wheels with 255's
Rear hitch
Rear stereo

Gv At the track

What size fan(s) and what price for the shroud - I haven't decided if I want to run a single 16 incher or twin smaller ones - but I am leaning more & more toward the twins.

Some proof of the power.

 

Comparative (before and after mods) time slips or chassis dyno results would be the only accurate gauge of gaining or losing power.

What you've done (which included adding weight) doesn't say much in a video.

Am I missing something here?  

Give us some numbers!  

I will not be dynoing each piece that would be a waste of time for this vehicle. This is not a honda civic. Dyno rental is $140 a hour and to spend thousands on dynoing parts would be finiacialy a waste for me cause i may sell 5 pieces.

Go take a stock GV out for a drive tape the speedo and watch how slow it is. CE12NR has a stock GV with the exact same lift and tires as i do. But i have a class 3 trailer hitch and a skid plate and stereo. We weigh the same and from a 3rd gear pull its instant the jump is 3 truck lengths as to the top of 4th i will be well over 10-12 lengths ahead of him.

I will take the truck to the track this summer with the lift. But the long tub headers i will not be reproducing and they make a big difference.


To fan it is a  16" Diameter, CFM: 2000, RPM: 1900, AMP Draw: 11.4. In the summer it kicks on pariodicly and in the winter i rarely see it kick on. Ive noticed faster warm ups in the cold and in summer thats a no brainer. Ive noticed more pulling power.

I can tow a 2200 lb trailer behind the gv with not to much struggle.

I think that you are moving in the right performance direction and I applaud your initiative.

Allow me to add one note of caution with regards to under drive pulleys though, having been down that road personally on other types of vehicles. Smaller diameter pulleys of this nature slow the speed of accessories, in order to free up parasitic RPM drag, which yes, in turn can improve throttle response. Little is to be gained in the horsepower world though. In doing so, you reduce the efficiency / output of those engine driven accessories that can lead to reduced alternator power output and air conditioning cooling capabilities. Something can be said for potential negative side effects on water pump and power steering systems as well.

My point is, like the old adage..."you have to give up something in order to gain something in return". Some folks may find that there are downsides of an under drive pulley system, as it affects their (primarily) daily driver.   

But the long tub headers i will not be reproducing...

I'm out.

For the pulley i have been running this pulley for 4 years now and i have put over 100,000km on the suzuki with most these mods.

The pulley does decrease alternator output on idle by 1 volt but i am unsure of the amps at low rpm in the alternator. I will have two options for the pulley OEM sized and under drive. The pulleys also have a stainless steel sleeve for the crank seal.

The reason im not producing the headers is the cost to make them with the time people on here will just kick the tires at a price of $1200 for a set. I will reproduce the headers if i get min of 2 orders but I will have to sit down and crunch number if anyone was seriously interested.

The pulley does decrease alternator output on idle by 1 volt but i am unsure of the amps at low rpm in the alternator. I will have two options for the pulley OEM sized and under drive. The pulleys also have a stainless steel sleeve for the crank seal.

If you're dropping 1 volt at idle, the alternator is probably not charging at idle - measuring voltage (as against measuring amperage) is really not the best way to determine the decrease in alternator output.

If you were to monitor battery voltage on a normal vehicle (doesn't really matter what, as long as it is alternator equipped), with no electrical accessories running, you should see approximately 12.5V (+/- 0.5V) engine off, directly after engine start it should jump to around 13.5 (+/- 0.5V), and this is with the alternator charging the battery to replenish the energy used to start the engine, and as the battery approaches full charge, the voltage will gradually rise to around 14.5 (+/- 0.5V) - once the battery is at full charge, the voltage will stabilize and may reach as much as 15V.  What most people don't understand is that because of the voltage regulator, the alternator is outputting the highest amperage (the actual number will depend on the battery's state of charge) at the lowest voltage (engine running - 13.5) and the lowest amperage (just enough to run the engine), when the voltage is highest (14.5).

Now - depending on what you consider "dropping 1 volt" - is it - for example ...

- engine off 12.5 (+/- 0.5V), engine started 11.5 (+/- 0.5V) - you're definitely not charging, and actually discharging the battery.
- engine off 12.5 (+/- 0.5V), engine started 12.5 (+/- 0.5V), and not 13.5V (+/- 0.5V), as it was before the pulley was fitted - you're probably not charging, or charging at a very low rate.

And yes, you can run 100,000 km with that set up, once the revs are over idle, it will charge, but at a lower rate than normal, you'll be cutting into the "cushion" of safety that most manufacturer's build into their equipment, and a heavily loaded system, driving lights, heater fans, etc., perhaps on a cold, snowy winter night, just might leave you stranded.

The point is, as Novadon indicated, underdrive pulleys don't produce power - they reduce parasitic loss, but at a cost - hence the caution.

Hey Fordem. I understand what you stated im a Liceneced mechanic. The V were about 13. i believe. I will check the V when i get back from out of town.

Underdrive slash light weigh pulley . Ill measure the Voltage and i will also amp clamp the alternator wire and report back. Only thing i get with the underdrive pulley is a slight very slight lights dim when my heater and rear deffrost is on.

I did not make this post to produce a debate. In all honesty i sell the parts to local canadians and word of the mouth. If this was making lots of money then i would sit here and debate but it does not.

So im offering my finds and parts that i have researched and fabricated. If you like them and want one post up and well go from there.

Selling these parts makes me maybe 3-5% witch is pennies. I could make more doing a clutch install  once a year and make more money.

j