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Rear output bearing replacement

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Offline tipover

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Rear output bearing replacement
« on: December 09, 2010, 09:05:18 PM »
Long story... could not find anything on the topic so heres my story.

I got a 95 four door with 3 inch lift with coils in the back and Zukination rear diff spacer.  I have had this setup in the rear for about 70, 000 miles.  I never put a driveline spacer in as recommemded, so the slip yoke was about .75 inch farther out than stock.  I also flat towed it for about 22,000 miles behind the RV.

I started to get a vibration during no load and it got worse, so I got a spacer and put it in, and it got worse.  So bought ujoints to put in.  When I pulled the drive shaft out, the slip joint outer surface has buggered up past the shinny material.  So i replaced the slipyoke. A little better by still pretty bad with about 1/16" movement.

I thought about buying another T-case because I did not want the car down for too long, but finally I got the nerve to replace the bearing myself.  30.00 for bearing and 10 for seal.  I found nothing on any website that I could find to help me.  The FSM said that you need special tools to to it.  I did not have such tools.

I pulled the t-case, and got the rear cover/output housing on the bench.  The bearing has hammered and had to be removed interally.  The bearing is a needle bearing in a cage and its own race as one assymbly.  it was about 1.5" long and1.5" in diameter.  it is very thin like an 1/8 of an inch.  The housing had 2 slots in it along the sides to get oil around the bearing, I suppose.  For about 45 minutes i beat that motha with a harden screw driver along the slots until i cut it the whole length.  then it popped out.  I had no idea how i would get the bearing back in.

I have a set of bearing/seal drivers from snap on that had a hole in them to allow it to be put on a handle that you can hit it with.  so they had a hole in them.  I picked on that fit in the hole and another that covered the exterior part of the exit hole.  I put a large bolt through both holes on the drivers and them put a nut on it. I heated the housing and started tightening the bolt.  It went in easier than it came out.  thanks god.

So now it is tight and all vibrations are gone.  The hardest thing was getting the bearing out. It was realling pressed in there with almost no access to it.  I'm glad that I decided to go for it and take a chance.
Wheeler-87 Samurai JX. 7" lift, 1.6 TBI, lockers hybrid rear, 33" Swampers, 6 to 1s in a billet housing.
RV Dingy-2003 2 door tracker
Tow-97 PSD F250 Crew SB Dana 60 conversion
87 samurai-spoa ZookEV electric conversion.
RV- 31' Monaco Mckenzie

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Offline Drone637

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Re: Rear output bearing replacement
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2010, 11:01:27 PM »
Good work.  :)

Some auto shops will press the bearings on for you if you buy it there.  Makes popping the race out a bit easier.
96 Geo Tracker, x-SJ-410,  x-White Rabbit, x-Project Trouble
Crawlers NorthWest
x-Trouble Racing

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Offline tipover

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Re: Rear output bearing replacement
« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2010, 11:18:31 PM »
yea I really thought about it, It still was faster for me to do it at home cuz I'm living in the boonies where all banjo players are born...
Wheeler-87 Samurai JX. 7" lift, 1.6 TBI, lockers hybrid rear, 33" Swampers, 6 to 1s in a billet housing.
RV Dingy-2003 2 door tracker
Tow-97 PSD F250 Crew SB Dana 60 conversion
87 samurai-spoa ZookEV electric conversion.
RV- 31' Monaco Mckenzie

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Offline Drone637

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  • Gender: Male
  • Evil Cow
Re: Rear output bearing replacement
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2010, 01:12:13 PM »
It worked, so you must have done it correctly.  :D
96 Geo Tracker, x-SJ-410,  x-White Rabbit, x-Project Trouble
Crawlers NorthWest
x-Trouble Racing