I have a 1996 sidekick sport w/ Auto tran. 4x4 abs  rearend is out can i swap rearend out of any sidekick or does it have to be out of just a sport

As long as the ring and pinion's are the same the rear third should bolt right up as far as I know the only difference between the sport and the JX is the sport has a 1.8L and there is some difference in the front A arms

The rear axles are longer as the Sport has a wider stance then the stock Tracker.  I believe the rear diff is the same but if your looking to swap the rear axle you will need one out of another Sport.

Hello all, this looks like the right place for help! I found rear end stuff right away.
I am replacing rear axle bearings and seals on my 97' Geo Tracker. 16v, 4wd,4door, all stock.I have new timken bearings and seals and Im ready to pull the axles. BUT! Im having trouble
getting a couple of of retainers. One for each axle.
suzuki shows 2 so Ill put both here and maybe someone can help me find out which one to order?
 1 Bearing retainer, sidekick, x-90 - except samurai - EXCEPT SAMURAI 95-98  $13.73  or
 2 Bearing retainer, sidekick sport - except samurai - EXCEPT SAMURAI 96-98  $35.72 .
I dont recall which catagory mine falls under.
Thanks for any replies regarding my failed memory
PS Am I going to run into trouble finding studs too? theres a couple broken.

No issue with finding studs, you can pick some up down at your local Suzuki dealership.  I believe Low Range, Trail Tough and Hawk Suzuki also carry them.  If you want studs a bit longer then stock for the rear order the studs from the front end, they are about a 1/4" longer to help with the drum brakes.

If you have the 1.6L 16v you want the Sidekick,x-90 bearings.  If you have the 1.8L Sport you will want the later.

You rock Drone man.! I'd just come in from pulling axles. It went well. Only had to hacksaw the right side
brake lines at the cylinder. Doing brake overhaul too. It was typical as I've read, to discover worn out wheel
bearings after replacing universals. 235k original miles.
 
Secondly, I have a 97' tracker sidekick also. I'ts only 2wd and is a rag top.but has the exactly same 1.6 16v motor
as my 4door. I bought cheap for parts from a guy who was relocating. $300bucks:) So if there's a question in here
somewhere, it's " Will that rear end fit my 4wd 4door? Should i ever need one. It looks exactly the same.
One may need more info regarding an affirmative answer , re; axle lengths? or some vin numbers.?

They are the same.  The only real difference in housings you will run into is if it has anti-lock brakes.  Also, the 4 doors have larger drums that have some cooling slots.  But you can just swap the entire housing.

There are two different type of axles, ones with 4 studs on the end of the axle that bolt to the drum and some with 5 studs that the drum sits on and the tire bolts directly to.   You would need to swap the brake drums if you were changing axles between the housings, but if you keep the housing you should be good to just swap out the entire thing.

If your going to replace a u-joint you should always replace both ends at the same time.  Otherwise when the second one goes it will take out the new u-joint with it due to the vibrations.  It is pretty easy to tell if you have a u-joint going out.  You will feel the vibrations when coasting or slowing down, but it will tend to disappear when you are on the throttle.

Does anyone know if the rear axles from A 1.8 Sport will fit my 2001 Vitara? I bought an entire rear axle for the 5.12 gears and that would mean I could keep these axleshafts for spares.

Thanks once more . no .... anti-lock brakes... I should be good for real end stuffs a while.
any suggestion for rear shocks?
I'll post when im done. thx again

bush buster:

I don't believe the 1.8L axle shafts will swap over, the Sport was kind of an odd dock.  Eric would probably know for certain as he has more experience with the newer rigs then I do.  I'll send him a page so we can get his wisdom. 

gater:

What do you need new rear shocks for?  Lift?  Just a better ride?

Hey ,  Just  wondering if there's a replacement shock that's been proven better, one over
another for this vehical. IF all my rebuilding work turns out as expected it may become the
camping ride again. I used to load it down and travel 14hrs to the ocean every year.
Last trip too much weight and miles lead to changed plans.!  (oil seals n carbon clogs.)
I bought this one new and would'nt mind adding another 200k to the odometer.
Water pump,timing belt,tensioner,dizzy seals,torqued crank nut to new spec. 108flbs,or close,
VC gasket, exhaust carbons soaked out,reamed out and blown out, done.
MAF within specs, all sensors working,decent response now. I still need 02 sensors prolly.
originals still in. service light's on for 6-7yrs now:)

Hello, I finally finished up rear axle bearings. I replaced the 3 seals, bearings, inside and outside retainers.
I've already replaced the rear driveshafts universals prior to discovering badly worn axle bearings.
Now there is a vibration that's been difficult to isolate. The best symptom I can discribe is: the vibration (almost a growl)
occurs the most pronounced during deceleration. It occurs whether in gear or neutral (coasting).
I had  a little trouble with the left rear axle going in i need to mention. I gave it a couple of good raps with a
wooden block and 3lb hammer. Then tightening the assemble in with the 4 bolts through the brake backplate to
the differential housing. I can't ''feel'' anything wrong. the dial gauge at the outside of the axle only shows approx  20 thousand's variance for 1  360 degree rotation. Im ausuming it's in OK.
Really the main question now IS. Would not getting my driveshaft back onto/into the same spline at the x-mission
cause problems?? The weights are still one it. I payed close attention to marking both ends with a file and white out
during disassembly.. There  IS some play in the rear end.
Thanks for any suggestions.
ps
I have'nt put the dial gauge on the drive shaft while running yet. Thanks again, John.