OK, we got this Sami from a friend.  I've spend the last 6 weeks reading your site.  I think I have read EVERY post that has "blue smoke", "smoke", "exhaust smoke", and any combination, and I'm truly stumped at this point.

Please help me before I decide to pour gasoline over her, and put her out of her misery.

Here's the story, I'm trying to not leave anything out, so I apologize if it's too much.

Purchased from a friend.  Friend used it as a hunting lease vehicle, so it had been sitting on a farm for 5 years.  Blue smoke after engine is warm.  Massive blue smoke when accelerate (Engine 1).  Friend also bought a used engine (Engine 2) a few years ago that was supposed to be in good condition, no smoke, no leaks, etc... 

So, we figured, "hey, blue smoke is probably just blow by, oil getting burned, we'll just swap the engine..."

Tested compression on Engine 1, was 148-153 on all 4 cyls.  Plugs a little gummy, so got new ones for new engine.

So, we swapped 'em.  Engine 2 was without intake, carb, alternator, distributor...  So we moved all that from Engine 1, to Engine 2.  I have the 900+ page PDF shop manual, which is EXCELLENT!  It took us through step by step, and minus a few hoses, it was very good.

Engine 2 fired up perfectly, after a misunderstanding on how to install the distributor.  Figured that out, and boom, runs great...  BLUE SMOKE AFTER WARM.  Also, noticed a little gas on plug 3.  Haven't tested new compression yet...

So, I start going through the checklists of things I've found here on this site:

• vacuum (replaced all I can find)
• tested pcv (tests OK, but I've got a new one, so I'll put it in)
• timing is dead on perfect
• heater tube to back of carb is not blocked
• doesn't appear to be losing coolant, I don't have a pressure tester yet
• all fluids changed (both diffs, tran, xfer case, coolant) - I know not relevant, but wanted to keep you informed
• Test drive shows GOOD power.  I have no idea how much it should be, but it seems dang peppy to me.
• oil breather tube was about 80% blocked, but I cleared it out - different between two engines though...
• No fluid out the tailpipe

So, is this simply that I've got HORRIBLE luck, and this Engine #2 ALSO has blow by, bad rings, whatever...

Or, could there be something else that's the same between the two setups that is causing it?

I saw a post that said collected oil/sludge/debri/etc... in the exhaust system (cat/muffler) could be the culprit, but that seems like a stretch to me...

There is a vacuum "nipple" on the intake manifold that points straight to the passenger side, and has nothing on it, could that be something?  Any idea what it is?

Emissions are strict here in Dallas, Texas, so this is obviously a crucial item.

Please, please.  In the name of all that is good and Holy, give me some small nugget of information, something simple like, "Oh, it's the passenger side windshield wiper blade...  Didn't you know that if that's bad, the emissions will be messed up?"  --  Or something like that.

Thanks so much in advance, this site has been a VALUABLE source of information, I don't know how I could have even gotten this far without you.

BTW
I've also put in shifter bushings in both the tranny and xfer case.  While both SIGNIFICANTLY helped, when warmed up, and after running in 4L for a bit, I can't shift into 2H without jamming it with the clutch out a little.

Also done some lighting wiring, a ton of cleaning, repaired the windshield washer fluid sprayer (MASSIVELY IMPORTANT!)  , front brakes, reverse sensor, seatbelt buzzer wiring, etc...  I'm loving her, I'm just trying to get her street legal...

Thanks again!

Trey

I think it's all in the carburation myself. The reason being that you took the intake and carb off another motor with the same problem. Blue smoke sounds more gas than oil. I hate to see you throw parts at her though. I'm no carb expert but I bet you could take it to an emission test station and they could at least tell you what's in the exhaust. Then once you fix it, I think the retest is cheaper. That would be less than having a garage test it. My 2 cents.

-Adam

Try this guy for carb parts http://suzukijohn.hypermart.net/parts.htm

the other thing you can do for the engine is drain the engine oil and put in four quarts of atf in it and run it for a while then drain it and change the filter and add some new oil to it and see if that helps to free your rings up, you could change it a couple more times if your worried about it still being in there,  the cabbies in new york ran atf in their engines full time a few years back.

I thought blue was oil, black was fuel and white was water  .  Mine uses a little oil and smokes blue some times
 
I think it's common for the 1.3 


Ryan

I thought blue was oil, black was fuel and white was water  .  Mine uses a little oil and smokes blue some times
 
I think it's common for the 1.3 


Ryan

You think? --I had a maverick that blew black and you could smell the oil burning. Hmmm....

-Adam

check the vacumn t that comes off of the pcv valve it gets plugged up and makes the motor smoke like hell.  my friend bought one from a guy who said the motor was shot. paid 600 bucks and it took ten minutes to fix.  runs great now and has for 3 years. burns no oil.

You failed to mention anything about the heads, what shape were they in? It could be that your valve guides are worn and when your engine heats up the metal expands and causes oil to leak into your cylinder. Blue smoke is definately oil, coming from either your crankcase(through worn rings) or down through your head(worn guides). If it was the guides the compression would be normal because all the valves are closed on the compression stroke. Blue smoke while your are accelerating again could be the valves and guides due to the excess clearance during the rapid RPMS. Remember these cars are 20 years old and engines wear out and I never trust anyone's "rebuilds". Before you pour gas on her and light her up, PM me I'll make you an offer!

I totally agree with PhnxCaller. usually oil (blue smoke) after warm up indicates worn valve guides or valve guides seals ( not sure for that name). After a long period of time this little seals tend to crack and after some heat thay just let oil through , wich goes down through the vale guides and into the combustion chamber through the valves. Compretion testing wouldn't show this issue.
cheers
Douglas

replace the egr valve on the intake u put on. diaprham is leaking by.    and make sure your pcv valve is operating right.   my egr valve was causing my smoke

Yank the head and put some rings in it.Send the head out for a valve job and check the guides.If you pull the intake manifold and find oil in it the head is more likely your problem.They also us lite tension rings and they will stick and cause oil burning usally you dont see the smoke.Been there and done that.Also a compression test wont give you an acurite reading because of the oil in the cyclinder. I would do a leak down test.You need a leak down tester you put in 100psi and anything over 10percent the motor is done.You listen for the air is leaking out Carb exhaust or crank case remove oil cap.4cyl engines are noisey when you put the air in them. Well good luck.

My first thought was someone put 2 stroke gas in the trucklet, or
just plain old dumped oil into the gas tank.

I would check the PCV, which is an orifice not a floppy thing like a Chevy
or a Ford would have. simply remove the breather hose from the valve cover
and run the engine, if the smoke goes away, and it might take some time, 5 or
so min, it is the breather sucking oil, also check for over full oil level, that can
cause this too.

The valve guide seals will cause some smoking, but not usually huge amounts.
the only other source is the rings, and running half the oil with AFT (Dexron type)
will help free stuck rings and clean the engine insides well. ATF is very thin so don't
run it too hard or too hot or you could damage the bearings from lack of cushon

Wild