I put a 2" spacer lift on my tracker and now I have positive camber. I read some use camber bolts, others use air chisels to pound the spindle back to the strut then oval the holes out. I was planning on pounding back the spindles on the top hole but it seems it's already touching (maybe 1/32" play).

If I was to do the part of the "left shaft" mod where you drill a new hole for the rear mount on the control arm, would this push it out far enough to correct this? I know it's going to give me more caster but I'm looking to fix the camber issue.

I also thought of cutting up my control arms instead like muskegtracker did and doing .5" wider (for camber reasons) and 1" forward instead of messing with the rear mount holes for caster. I have some 3/16" plate and box tubing I can cut up to do this.

The quickest/easyest fix would probably be the Camber bolts...
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/kicksuspension.htm < at the very bottom

-A side note- I have seen some Alignment guys use the existing bolts and just run the center section over a bench grinder, basically making there own "camber" bolts.

AS far as the Widening mod. If you have the means and time to do it, then do it. Hagens modifications are probably the best mods you can do, and definitely the best for the money. The widening mod will result in more positive camber, naturally, and the caster benefit is huge. I noticed a big improvement in driving/trails, also one driveshaft for both fronts is very nice...
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm

The quickest/easyest fix would probably be the Camber bolts...

I've run camber bolts many times on little "tuner" cars and understand how they work, the problem is the spindle has maybe 1/32" play till its bottomed out against the strut at the top mount hole. Camber bolts rely on shifting the top mounting point and with nowhere to go on my struts, theres no way to adjust it.

Guess I'll just do the arm modification.

If you Dont want to do the widening mod, you could always play with the upper strut mounts. You could do one of two things...

1. Elongate the holes to allow the mount to have left to right movement, and therefore help correct camber.

2. Make a drop bracket that has an offset built in to help your camber situations. < I would advise a drop bracket or at least a strut mnt flip if you havent already done so with the lift, that way you get some down travel back.


- Just some more thoughts.

Hey yellow2000S/R,

Thanks for the PM.  I'd love to give my thoughts and a little insight to the control arm mod I did:

I've been driving it for a while now.  Love it!  Excellent approach angle, good ride quality, and maximum use of strut travel.  Each ball joint mount was moved .5" out, 1.5" down, and 2" forward.  In the end it yielded 2" of lift at the frame rails.  I then did the strut mount flip and added 1.5" strut spacer to get my travel back.  My CV's run at a slight angle - nothing to worry about.  The best part is that it gave me approximately 2" of clearance under the whole front end.

As for the camber issues, I never even unbolted the struts for this mod,  When I assembled the final product the camber looked perfect.  I took it in for an alignment and they told me camber was bang on.  I would definitely recommend this mod to anyone looking to squeeze on larger tires, for more clearance, and maintaining stock ride qualities.  That said if I did it again I would not relocate the ball joint a full 2" as it did cause some minor clearance issues.  Probably 1"-1.5" would be right on.

You can check out a little video I made last weekend after installing a spool in the rear end.  In part of the video I drive up onto a large cement pipe without issue this demonstrates one of big benefits to the control arm mod.   My stock toe-loop did snag a little on exit, but I'm planning on relocating that anyway.  I'm only running 235's.  I imagine if you put 31's or 33's on it the tires would stick out past most of the offending chassis points.



So a good way to get lift without worrying about camber change!