hmm... maybe they are thinner at the wheel bolts and you don't need extra long wheel studs.  The front studs are usually longer than the rears but that doesn't always mean there is enough to get through the turned down drum, the disc, and, say, aluminum rims.  It kind of depends on the disc design.  If the Kick disc is a bigger diameter, you will have to turn the drums down less but if the Sami disc is offset more, it is easier to fab a caliper mount and clearance rims. 

Did you use a Sami t-case or calipers with rear e-brake, Rhinoman?

hmm... maybe they are thinner at the wheel bolts and you don't need extra long wheel studs.  The front studs are usually longer than the rears but that doesn't always mean there is enough to get through the turned down drum, the disc, and, say, aluminum rims.  It kind of depends on the disc design.  If the Kick disc is a bigger diameter, you will have to turn the drums down less but if the Sami disc is offset more, it is easier to fab a caliper mount and clearance rims. 
Did you use a Sami t-case or calipers with rear e-brake, Rhinoman?

I used Ford calipers with ebrake. The ebrake ratio wasn't very well matched to the Zuk handbrake mechanism so i had lots of travel. With the stock m/c I had loads of pedal travel too. Someday I'll have another go at it but I lost patience with it and went to LWB brakes front and back.
I used turned down drums for the adapters, there are two different designs of drums, one has large internal webs and isn't as suitable. Longer wheel studs are a must, the front studs are too short to work. Like you said the stud has to be long enough to take the adapter and the thickness of the wheel. It also has to have  a shoulder that is long enough for the discs to locate properly on.
The Zuk studs and drums are like cheese, once the original studs had been knocked out the splines were too loose to take a stud with the same size spline so we reamed out the hole and fitted a stud with a larger diameter spline. The studs were an imperial stud IIRC so the front and rear wheel nuts were different, that bugged me too, but at the time we couldn't locate a metric stud with a better fit.

Yep, I have tired out a few parts guys over the wheel stud hardware - they should just give me the book

Sounds like the ford calipers are a scratch. 

As far as the wheel studs go, another option is to put the front Kick studs into the disc only and drill another five holes to hold the turned drum to the disc.  Use your turned drums as drill guides for offset holes and then bolt them to the discs and use them as guides on your discs.  You will need spacers between the disc and the turned drum to clearance the stud heads but other than that, your 'cheesy' hardware and different sized lug problem should be solved. 

Aaron

There's gotta be some way to make use of some wood in this.

Thanks for all that info guys!!! I'm still looking into the Swift GTi calipers. The guys over at www.twmswift.com aren't giving me any help so I'll go to my local Suzuki dealer and ask some. I'll post what ever info I get.

Guys, I'm sorry. Someone did help me over at teamswift.com forums but I just didn't noticed. So it's my bad. They said that the Swift GTi has ebrake built in the caliper. I will look further into this to get measurements on caliper mounts and disc brake clearance.

Swift GTI calipers have been used over here but they are generally considered as not powerful enough for a Track/Kick.

Oh, bummer!!! Well, off to another search!!!

Q: For the 2dr guys running bigger tires, can you swap to the 4dr brakes for a little extra stopping power???

Q: For the 2dr guys running bigger tires, can you swap to the 4dr brakes for a little extra stopping power???

Yeah thats what I run now.