I'm going to tell you what I did and maybe you can tell me why I got the end result that I got.

I apologize for the wordiness but I wanted to be thorough and it will take less time to read this then it took me to type it.

I disconnected both rear brakes and plugged the lines with the rubber bleed valve cap. Then I pulled the drums, and then the axles. I bought the adapter plate for the backing plate that requires the hole cut so you can pull your axles out without pulling the hydraulics.

I cut off the old bearings and locks and put a piece of pipe over the axle with the new bearing and set it in my vice with the flange up. I used a large socket on the flange side and pounded until the bearing seated all the way on as far as it could go. I used the same technique to put the lock on but with more pounding.
I actually put the adapter plate on, then the bearing, and then the lock. I was told that with the new style bearings, you didn't need the original spacers so I set them aside.

Then I seated the new seal and left the plastic piece in that helps prevent seal damage.

I cut the hole in the backer plate to clear the bearing. Then I slid the whole assembly in and used a socket and hammer to knock it in once the bearing met the housing. O.k. It seemed to go right in.

Then I tightened the adapter plate to the flange so now the whole brake assembly was secure. I reconnected the hydraulics, and put the bleed valve back on and reconnected the e-brake.

I did all this to the other side. Then I had my wife pump while I bled all the brakes. Rt rear, lt rear, rt front, lt front. Then I did it all again to make sure. Brakes seem to stop fine.

I put the wheels on and took it for a spin. It shook vilantly and I could here a clicking clacking noise. I jacked it up and let it run on the jack. The left wheel wobbled. I took it off and took the brake drum off and reinstalled it. It's better but it still seems to wobble but not as bad. I did the same to the other side as well thinking maybe it was cocked. I still get a pulsing shake in the brakes when I stop but not as bad. I also see the back wheel has a wobble still on the drivers side but not sure on the passenger side since the driverside was the one spinning. I think the passenger.

I'm not exactly sure what I did wrong but something seems kind of wierd.

Could I still have the brake drum on cockeyed? It seems easy to do but I don't know how to get it on perfectly straight.
Could I have the axles in crooked? Maybe the bearing is on cockeyed? It looked straight and I don't know how it could be cockeyed with the tight clearance it has on the shaft.
Could I have possibly bent either the shaft or the flange end? I'm strong but I don't see how I could have bent it as thick as it is.
Maybe I got the backer plate on crooked? It lines up with the holes and the adapters from petro works seem to be seated tight against it and the flange. That might explain the brakes but not the wobble.

I'm totally at a loss for an explaination of why there still seems to be a wobble.

Anyone??

-Adam

You might of damaged the mating surface on the axle, you could take the four studs out and try to file it buy spining the axle and seeing where the high spots are and trying to get them down and then put the drum back on and torque them back on to about 50 lbs or so, make sure the back sides of the drums are clean, you can try taking the bolts or studs out of the axle without destroying them by putting the nuts on them flush and use a block of wood on them and give them a good smack or two other wise you will have to get some new ones. I have bent a couple of axles on my rig so they are far from bullet proof and with 33's you can grab the drivers side rear tire and bend the axle by hand, my axle in the press bent like crazy befor I put some heat to it to get the holding ring off(trying to save it, I did)on a very large press, a friend of mine has disk brakes on the back of his with a spool and the rotor hits the caliper mount when he turns corners so the axles do flex alot.

  Which way did you place the bearing on the shaft? With the new bearings they have a protruded end that is meant to take the place of the spacer shim.

I know I have the bearing on in the right orientation. I'm going to look at the flange end and see if I maybe distorted the surface. The only thing is that it seems like the center of the drum sits off the center of the flange.  Like it kind of balances around the middle of it. When I tighten down the four bolts, without the washers, the nuts come almost flush with the ends of the studs. The stud ends only protrude by 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch. Maybe I distorted the round part that comes through the brake drum to where the drum won't settle flush against the flange? I could have sworn that the 4 studs that hold the brake drum on require a nut and a washer. There's not enough stud left to accommodate a washer and a nut.  I hope I didn't really jack it up. I may have to take it to a shop and say "the previous owner did something too it"

I guess first I need to know if the four studs require a washer and nut to hold the brake drum on.  I have mine on with out the washers now. That would tell me something is wrong if they do require washers mine don't have enough stud to hold the washer and the nut. I've got them on pretty even but if they aren't bottoming out, I may have to whip out the dremmel  and do an assault on possibly the center part but I'll look at the flat part of the flange first and set a straight edge on it to see how flat it is.

-Adam

I guess first I need to know if the four studs require a washer and nut to hold the brake drum on.  I have mine on with out the washers now. That would tell me something is wrong if they do require washers mine don't have enough stud to hold the washer and the nut. I've got them on pretty even but if they aren't bottoming out, I may have to whip out the dremmel  and do an assault on possibly the center part but I'll look at the flat part of the flange first and set a straight edge on it to see how flat it is.
-Adam

There should be spring washers on those studs. Somethings not seated right, I'd be surprised if you bent the shaft.

I was pretty sure there were washers since I have 8 left over. I'm doing a few other things but was pretty sure they were for the drums.I've got that plate on each side that allows for axle removal without removing the brakes. You can just pull the axle with bearings and all through the brake backing assembly. Maybe it's causing a problem. I was told to cut the hole big enough to pass the bearing through and it would be fine.  It was from petroworks.

-Adam

I finally got around to pulling the drums off again. After further inspection, the round part of the flange that sticks through the drum was mushroomed enough to keep the drum from seating all the way onto the flange. In fact it was about a quarter of an inch away probably.  I guess that pounding with the socket took it's toll. I went ahead and took an angle grinder to the passenger axle first.   The drum seems to have seated fine. I will do the driver axle tomorrow and see how well the wheels  turn.  I'll post back after the test drive.

-Adam

Hope that works out for you, hate problems like the one your having.

Took it for a test. The grinding sound is gone. The wobble is gone. All is well (sort of).  If I didn't already have a right angle air grinder I would have been screwed,. I should have gone and picked up the cut off wheels for it when I was cutting off my old bearings and locks. I forgot I had it. In hind sight, I should have just replaced the drivers side because that was the one that had excessive play. Bearings aren't cheap either. But I had those new adapters I wanted to put on in case I ever had to pull the axles out again (who knows when that will be.)

-Adam