If your rig was as rusty as mine was then stay away from a body lift ! My 89 was very rusted and I was able to get the body mounts loose whith PB Blaster and some work . After doing the homemade body lift though my rig only lasted about 3 months before every body mount either rusted loose or shoved up through the floor . I would never do a body lift on a rusty trail rig again. Maybe on a clean mall crawler but thats about it !
After experiencing similar problems on both of my offroad rigs, I agree with this all the way. Getting the bolts loose is not the problem, the problem is getting enough support around the body mounts to keep a softening floor intact under the added stress of the body lift... In stock form there are at least 4 more contacts between body and frame than just the body mounts. Even though they are basically just rubber cushions, they still help distribute the weight of the body over 50% more area. Even if those soften up, they will only allow the body to drop 3/8" before it is resting completely on the frame. Not so with a body lift. The lift blocks will push right through the floor and add stress to places not designed to handle anything like that. If you live anywhere with potential for rust, I would advise against a body lift on an older rig. Find other, more creative ways to lift it. With the increasing availability of diff lowering brackets and strut extensions, as well as coil spacers in all sizes, fitting 31's really isn't too hard without a body lift.
If I were to start over with a fresh, unmodified Track/kick, it would get rear lift springs for 2-3" of lift, diff drop brackets, a rear Y-link spacer, 2" front spacers for 3" of lift with strut spacers, longer rear shocks and 31's. I would do slight trimming or floorboard pounding and call it good. I already know that I will probably not see any Track/kicks around here without rust issues unless they came from further south and are really pricey...
