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IDLE FLUXUATES

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Offline ROSS

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IDLE FLUXUATES
« on: January 27, 2005, 04:30:41 AM »
1600 (16) VALVE
87 SAMI 1600 FUEL INJ. , TORQUER CAM, 6.5 TO 1T-CASE, 5"SPRINGS SHACKLE REVERSE ,2 BODY LIFT, LOCK-RITES FRONT W/ HEAVY-DUTY AXLES & ARB'S REAR  BFG 31 X10.50 X 16",  EXO SKELLETON,

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Offline Bobzooki

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2005, 04:41:17 AM »
Yes.
Bob

Tahoe 24' Fish-N-Fun Tritoon
115 HP Mercury outboard

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Offline mrfuelish

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2005, 05:58:23 AM »
T.P.S.
1987,1988,1988,1990 samurai's,  1953 m38a1,  1996 x-90,blue.1996 x-90 red.1994 2 door tracker.   only Dead Fish go with the flow.                No Hairy Nosed Wombats were ran over on the trail today.       My ZUK is Xenophobic.

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Offline Zukipilot

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2005, 05:59:40 AM »
My 8V use to, now it just revs high. I've gotta find out how to fix it before moab.

So how hard is it to replace the wax pellet thing?

Zig
Zukipilot
'92 Liberty Overland Sidekick

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Offline mrfuelish

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2005, 06:55:41 AM »
Why would you want to? thats to keep people from messing with it.  ;D
1987,1988,1988,1990 samurai's,  1953 m38a1,  1996 x-90,blue.1996 x-90 red.1994 2 door tracker.   only Dead Fish go with the flow.                No Hairy Nosed Wombats were ran over on the trail today.       My ZUK is Xenophobic.

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Offline zuksofhazzard

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2005, 07:29:02 AM »
Hey zukipilot, this sounds like it could be your fix. It works for 1.3 tbi and 1.6 tbi. I know it worked for 2 people.  For the 16 valve I don't think this applys. Sorry.  Jeff

This is not my fix. It is something that I had saved from the Off-Road BBS.

I was tired of the 2-3000 rpm high idle and intermitant surging as engine warmed up. The fix is great-non perminant takes about 10 minutes and best of all costs little or nothing.
So far, engine and ECM seem to be working wonderfully.
Cold start this morning at 22 Deg. was great-----Engine fired first time and ran at 700 rpm until warm. Took a little longer to warm up than at 3000 rpm. Just think of all the fuel savings.

You need a piece of rubber tubing the same diamater as is used between the radiator and the overflow bottle. Cut off a piece about 1" long and insert a 3/4" long bolt that fits tightly into the tubing----all the way to the head.---Make sure that it fits tightly enough that no air or vaccum can pass through.

On the front of the throttle body--Passenger side----There is a cover plate with three screws on it.
Remove the plate.
Inside the hole, there is the infamous wax pellet that generally causes the surging problems.
This is the thermal valve that is operated by the temp of the antifreeze. When the antifreeze is cold, the pellet is cold and therefore, contracted. This lets a controled amount of air into the tb that is not metered by the butterfly. This extra air is what raises the idle. As the antifreeze warms up, the pellet expands and is supposed to slowly seal this intentionally created vaccum leak. This is supposed to slowly lower the idle.

Inside this cavity, there is a ring with several raised bumps around the surface. There is a hole in the side of this cavity that goes directly into the manifold. This is the hole that I plugged with the rubber tube and bolt. If the ring with bumps is in the way, take a sharp flat head screw driver and using the bumps, screw the ring in until it is far enough in that the vaccum hole is clear. Firmly insert rubber into hole---Make sure there is a GOOD seal or this will not work
« Last Edit: January 27, 2005, 07:29:39 AM by jeffsimons »

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2005, 12:03:36 PM »
I just added a 3 wire heated O2
sensor, had to add some extra
wires and a relay to power it, but
not a big deal, well my idle seems
to be much better, much more stable
tho I'm sure the high idle air bypass
will still make it idle high in the morning,
once it's warmed up, it's stable
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject.

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Offline ROSS

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #7 on: January 27, 2005, 02:10:09 PM »
I TOLD HIM TO GIVE MORE INFO 1600 16 VALVE, PORTED POLISHED CUSTOM LOW TORQUE CAM
MAYBE THIS WILL HELP HE NEVER LISTENS HE'S MY BOSS
87 SAMI 1600 FUEL INJ. , TORQUER CAM, 6.5 TO 1T-CASE, 5"SPRINGS SHACKLE REVERSE ,2 BODY LIFT, LOCK-RITES FRONT W/ HEAVY-DUTY AXLES & ARB'S REAR  BFG 31 X10.50 X 16",  EXO SKELLETON,

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Offline Zukipilot

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2005, 11:54:00 PM »
Quote
I TOLD HIM TO GIVE MORE INFO 1600 16 VALVE, PORTED POLISHED CUSTOM LOW TORQUE CAM
MAYBE THIS WILL HELP HE NEVER LISTENS HE'S MY BOSS

Bosses never listen, they know everything, that is why they are the boss :P ::) :P
Zig
Zukipilot
'92 Liberty Overland Sidekick

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Offline Zukipilot

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2005, 11:56:20 PM »
Cool thanks for the info. I think I'll check with Hawk and get them to send me a new part though. A wax block cant cost too much.

Zig
Zukipilot
'92 Liberty Overland Sidekick

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Offline Speedracer7c

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #10 on: January 28, 2005, 01:12:31 AM »
Of course it can't, Look how cheap candles are.  ::)
93 sammy 5 inch calmini lift 31" ltbs locked rear

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Offline Natebert

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2005, 03:20:12 AM »
Quote
Yes.


Yes


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Offline Natebert

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Re: IDLE FLUXUATES
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2005, 03:21:36 AM »
Quote
Hey zukipilot, this sounds like it could be your fix. It works for 1.3 tbi and 1.6 tbi. I know it worked for 2 people.  For the 16 valve I don't think this applys. Sorry.  Jeff

This is not my fix. It is something that I had saved from the Off-Road BBS.

I was tired of the 2-3000 rpm high idle and intermitant surging as engine warmed up. The fix is great-non perminant takes about 10 minutes and best of all costs little or nothing.
So far, engine and ECM seem to be working wonderfully.
Cold start this morning at 22 Deg. was great-----Engine fired first time and ran at 700 rpm until warm. Took a little longer to warm up than at 3000 rpm. Just think of all the fuel savings.

You need a piece of rubber tubing the same diamater as is used between the radiator and the overflow bottle. Cut off a piece about 1" long and insert a 3/4" long bolt that fits tightly into the tubing----all the way to the head.---Make sure that it fits tightly enough that no air or vaccum can pass through.

On the front of the throttle body--Passenger side----There is a cover plate with three screws on it.
Remove the plate.
Inside the hole, there is the infamous wax pellet that generally causes the surging problems.
This is the thermal valve that is operated by the temp of the antifreeze. When the antifreeze is cold, the pellet is cold and therefore, contracted. This lets a controled amount of air into the tb that is not metered by the butterfly. This extra air is what raises the idle. As the antifreeze warms up, the pellet expands and is supposed to slowly seal this intentionally created vaccum leak. This is supposed to slowly lower the idle.

Inside this cavity, there is a ring with several raised bumps around the surface. There is a hole in the side of this cavity that goes directly into the manifold. This is the hole that I plugged with the rubber tube and bolt. If the ring with bumps is in the way, take a sharp flat head screw driver and using the bumps, screw the ring in until it is far enough in that the vaccum hole is clear. Firmly insert rubber into hole---Make sure there is a GOOD seal or this will not work


This sounds like a great idea.

I assume that the high idle is now gone forever with this mod though.

~Nate