push the plunger in while running and eng should stumble if egr is working

i pushed it and it bogged so that means its still good right? =-)

i put the cat back on but left the muffler off and i drove it..it seemed to now bog =-) BUT i have a small leak at the manifold to the downpipes so im not gunna get my hopes up to soon

thanks for the help =-)

im hoping i can do a turbo a little later seeing as i now need new exh system and i also need to go in and replace some gaskets and the timing chain since im at 100,667 miles =-)

all you helpfull people please watch for my next post as i need to replace my clutch and i wanna do it by myself =-)

I pushed it and it bogged so that means its still good right? =-)

the cat looged very plugged and from the ammount of air that is coming right out of the manifold i was feeling about half the air pressure at the back of the exh before so im hoping that i can fix the problem with the exh

oooo also i bought a timing light since it hassent been timed in a while can someone explain to me how to time it? the books i have are pretty complicated "run the car at 2k rpm for 5mins" "place a jumper here" do i really need to do all of that?

also when i goto check the valve setting do i need to then replace the valve cover gasket also?

Pushing on the EGR Valve is forcing it to open and close, the valve should do this on its own since it operates off of vacuum.   If your egr is dirty, carbon build up, the required vacuum applied by the engine will not open or close it when it's suppose to.  So forcing it does not mean it is operating efficiency.

You should not need to replace the valve gasket, and be able to reuse your old one.  But this is a good time to replace it, if it's leaking. 

FYI, the Exhaust should not have as much pressure at the exit tip vs. near the manifold.  The Muffler has baffles in it, and the CAT has a bunch of Stuff in it (see below) which should interfere with pressure and exhaust flow.

What is in a CAT. A converter's interior design determines what type it is. If the converter is filled with hundreds of metal beads, it's called a pellet type converter.

If the inside of the converter looks like a honeycomb, then it's called a monolithic type converter. Monolithic type converters are a newer design, much less restrictive, and should be used in place of pellet type cats whenever possible. Cats are required because aside from carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O), your engine produces hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx).

The theory behind a catalytic converter is to get hot exhaust gases to pass over a surface that has been coated with rhodium, platinum and/or palladium. These metals are known as the catalyst material. When the exhaust enters a catalytic converter, it cannot leave without coming into contact with the catalyst material. The chemical reaction between the precious metals and the hot exhaust results in a slightly less poisonous gas than what initially left the exhaust port.

I have not timed my Tracker yet, but on my Toyota I have to use the jumper wire also.  This jumper puts the on-board computer into the proper mode for setting engine timing.

IGNITION TIMING Procedures, these were for a 93 I believe:

NOTE: Verify that increasing engine speed advances ignition timing.
Samurai & Sidekick

Ensure transmission is in Neutral or Park and parking
brake is set. Inspect crankshaft pulley timing mark and timing mark
indicator on timing belt cover. Clean marks as required.

Start engine, and warm it to normal operating temperature.

Turn engine off with ignition on for 5 seconds.

Restart engine.

Run engine at 2000 RPM for 5 minutes, and then return it to idle.

Turn all accessories off.

Attach timing light to No. 1 spark plug wire.

Ensure idle speed is correct.

CAUTION: Driving with jumper wire installed in monitor coupler will
damage catalytic converter.

Remove protective cap from monitor coupler located next to
battery.

Connect jumper wire between terminals "C" (ground) and "D"
(test switch).

Aim timing light at crankshaft pulley and timing cover timing marks.

IGNITION TIMING TABLE (Degrees BTDC |removethispart|@ RPM) (1)
Application Man. Trans. Auto. Trans.
Samurai .................. (2) 7-9 |removethispart|@ 800 ................ Not Used
Sidekick
MPI ......................... (2) 4-6 |removethispart|@ 800 ................ (2) 4-6 |removethispart|@ 800
TBI .......................... (2) 7-9 |removethispart|@ 800 ................ (2) 7-9 |removethispart|@ 800

If ignition timing is not within specification, loosen distributor hold-down flange bolts, and rotate
distributor to obtain correct ignition timing.

Tighten distributor hold-down flange bolts, and recheck ignition timing.

NOTE: With jumper wire installed, timing should be fixed. If timing varies, terminal "D" is not properly grounded.
Remove jumper wire from monitor coupler.

Ensure ignition timing advances as engine speed increases. If ignition timing does not advance, check TPS, monitor coupler wiring circuit, engine start signal circuit and ECM.  ( I do not have the procedures for this check)

Having the same kind of problems with my 94 4dr kick.  Have done all the easy stuff and am having the computer rebuilt just to eliminate it as the problem, but book says "check engine light on" means emmisions problem so I think it is a plugged cat or erg valve.  This information will help me  start on those when the computer is back in.  just sold my CJ3B where all you had to check was points,plugs,regulator,and wires.  All these sensors and computers and such are great when they work, but very intimidating when they don't.   Good luck