ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Mikerpm4x4 on October 24, 2005, 01:04:23 PM
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(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/inner.jpg)
This is where the inner Toyota cup mounts.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/outer.jpg)
The brass sleeve replaces the stock brass sleeve located at the back of the hub bearing. The larger steel piece is the lockout spacer. The toyota's outer stub is longer.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/stanssm.jpg)
I will get some pics of them installed posted on wednsday.
Mike
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So what's the going price for the kit? How about just the lockout spacers for the guys looking to swap in the Toy diff as well?
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Heres a pic of the driverside cv adapter and locking hub adapter mounted.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/cvmountadapter.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/HPIM0775.JPG)
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So what's the going price for the kit? How about just the lockout spacers for the guys looking to swap in the Toy diff as well?
$300 I belive. Stan is 37Kicker on this board. You could PM him if your interested.
Mike
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Thanks for the pics Bill! I guess thats one less thing to do on Wendsday! ;D
Mike
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Could you post pics of any grinding and mods to the a-arm you did?
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I could be talked into selling parts of the kit for those interested in that . mike is correct 300 plus shipping  stan
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Could you post pics of any grinding and mods to the a-arm you did?
I have a pic but the file is too big to post. I can resize it tonight as the computer im using tonight does not have a photoshop editor. KSA421, I just emailed you the pic.
Mike
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As far as the Toy CV's are concerned, which ones would we need for the swap? What yrs.
Also, are they the same for each side, as in, only need one spare? And how would the CV's work with the Hagen widing method??? Would the CV adapter need to be made thicker?
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It actually reqires the widening mod, so if youve already done it your halfway there. CV shafts are from 86-94 I belive.
Mike
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Ok I know I may be missing somthing here, but what are actual benifits to using the yota cv's? Bigger tires? how big? I know that stock cv's can safely run 31" tires, so what will the yota's do? Is this better than the ford ranger or maxima cv's, and what tire sizes can they run, safely? What do you do to the rear to match the strength of the new front end?
Jeff
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I've seen guys running 37's on a IFS toyota with a fairly hopped up V-6 and never snapped a CV even with romping pretty hard on em. Other than that I'm only running 31's on my toy but never had an issue with a CV in the 8 years I've owned and abused mine.
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Ok I know I may be missing somthing here, but what are actual benifits to using the yota cv's? Bigger tires? how big? I know that stock cv's can safely run 31" tires, so what will the yota's do? Is this better than the ford ranger or maxima cv's, and what tire sizes can they run, safely? What do you do to the rear to match the strength of the new front end?
Jeff
To match the front overall strength, I'd say probably the calmini rear axles. Or a Ford 9". 8)
I would feel much more confident running 33's and a front locker with this mod, which may change my mind on going SAS! (At least fir awhile ;))
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It actually reqires the widening mod, so if youve already done it your halfway there. CV shafts are from 86-94 I belive.
Mike
Excellent! Easy to do all at once then. I think SAS may be put off for a bit!
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I'm looking to do a whole toyota ifs diff and rear axle swap(have a guy that is doing a SAS on his Toy with dana 44's), was just curious if anyone knew if the front axle and diff would work with just the widening mod and spacers from Stan? Just holding off on this till I can get me a welder to start making the new brackets to hold in the toy diff. I was actualy messing with the idea of somehow using the toyota knuckles also but if it would all fit in ok would save me alot of Fab time.
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Thanks for the pics Bill! I guess thats one less thing to do on Wendsday! ;D
Mike
No problem dude....
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Are the pictures working in this thread, I can't see! :(
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Me either. .... Why??? ???
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I think the uploader is dead :(
George
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I think the uploader is dead :(
George
I think so too. :(
'Lil history: The earlier forum software we were using didn't have an upload feature so explosivo graciously put together a 3rd party uploader for use... and that was cool. :) but now... this new forum software has an uploader feature built right in so one can post pictures right along with their text. Click on "additional options" while posting and you'll see it.
Thanks, Eric
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I've seen guys running 37's on a IFS toyota with a fairly hopped up V-6 and never snapped a CV even with romping pretty hard on em. Other than that I'm only running 31's on my toy but never had an issue with a CV in the 8 years I've owned and abused mine.
I'm actually a Toyota guy hanging out here. I run an IFS Toyota. The Cv's can safely handle 33's and lockers. 35's is pushing the limit...especially with lockers. 37's......if the guy hadn't broken anything he wasn't using it hard at all.
I buitl my IFS up to handle 33x10.50's....I hate breakage, so I went safely within my limit to avoid breakage as long as I could....so far no problems. Oh yeah and I have an open diff in the front.
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I've seen guys running 37's on a IFS toyota with a fairly hopped up V-6 and never snapped a CV even with romping pretty hard on em. Other than that I'm only running 31's on my toy but never had an issue with a CV in the 8 years I've owned and abused mine.
I'm actually a Toyota guy hanging out here. I run an IFS Toyota. The Cv's can safely handle 33's and lockers. 35's is pushing the limit...especially with lockers. 37's......if the guy hadn't broken anything he wasn't using it hard at all.
I buitl my IFS up to handle 33x10.50's....I hate breakage, so I went safely within my limit to avoid breakage as long as I could....so far no problems. Oh yeah and I have an open diff in the front.
I have to admit that I have seen a toy with 35s and a 4.3 and an auto beat the FN tar out of his rig. He did eventually break one but it took a lot. The rockstar project has the toy CVs in it and it has been severly punished. Its holding up great. I am not saying that they are indestuctable but a definate upgrade.
Mike
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After looking at this upgrade I have a question. I see that he has made a hub spacer to match up to the Toy stub shaft length. Could a person not just cut the length of the shaft down to fit the Zuk hub? I ask because I'm considering this upgrade but because I run skinny tires I don't want my hubs sticking out.
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Can anybody email me the pictures to kozaz|removethispart|@yahoo.com?
I will get them up for everybody using my PhotoBucket Account.
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if i remember the splines are larger than the stub shaft 1.5 inches in. then you would have to respline. the spacer makes replacement a store bought item insted of custom made every time you break. stan
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Thanks, I wasn't aware of that :)
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biker are you thinking of ordering a kit?
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I'm not sure yet Chet, just kicking around some ideas of what I might need to stand up to the new gears I'm ordering.
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Can anybody email me the pictures to kozaz|removethispart|@yahoo.com?
I will get them up for everybody using my PhotoBucket Account.
I just sent you the photos Kozaz. ;)
Mike
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I was thinking of the same thing, but again
custom machine work on the trail can be a
PITA ;) then again, how often do you think
you would break a Toy CV shaft ???
Wild
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I was thinking of the same thing, but again
custom machine work on the trail can be a
PITA ;) then again, how often do you think
you would break a Toy CV shaft ???
Wild
This kit allows install of stock/junkyard toyota CVs. The CVs are not modified. The kit is unbreakable. I would imagine that the inner bushing may wear out with extended use. I am quite certain the rockstar project will be the first failure of this nature if it ever happens. It has now been equipt with this since Memorial weekend. Either Dan or I am driving it at every event we can get out hands on. ;D
Mike
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Hi team :D
I have seen heaps of IFS Toys over here running 35's ( it is a standard fitment these days for the hard out guys ) and either diesels or V6's and they go pretty good. They do expode fairly regularly but these guys thrash them real hard - F#$K'n nutters ::)
I believe that they would last real well on a Kick though because you lose a S$%T load :o of weight and power and that my friends helps drive trains more than anything ;)
From what I have seen and heard from the general Zuk comunity over there Stans truck is one tough truck. He is not scared to peddle it and the thing is holding together on 37's 8). I am impressed - enough to dump my beam front end and go back to IFS ;D
I would jump at a kit from Stan but at $500 NZ$ + freight it aint going to happen in the near future - I want to get to Moab and meet some of you guys in person ;D
Keep up the good work.
ZeusZuki.
PS: See you at ZukFest??? Maybe :)
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Can anybody email me the pictures to kozaz|removethispart|@yahoo.com?
I will get them up for everybody using my PhotoBucket Account.
I just sent you the photos Kozaz. ;)
Mike
I will get these up tonight!
Thanks Mike!
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so is the kit $300 US?
Thanks
Jeff
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I can testify on how much these cv's can be beat on. I rode with Mike at Zukimelt. The Rockstar had 35x14.50-15 Pitbull Rocker tires on it and Mike was not easy on the Rockstar. We climbed a couple of rock faces and beat on it pretty hard!!!! One thing that is nice about this kit is not worrying about busting the cv's. They can be broke but not NEARLY as easy as a stocker. Also you can change out either side in about 10 minutes.
Bill
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once you have the initial mods done any broken shafts are easily replaced with non custom made ones. weve found stock toy ones from the j-yards seam to be the strongest :) stan
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so is the kit $300 US?
Thanks
Jeff
Yes it is $300 US
Mike
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so is the kit $300 US?ÂÂ
Thanks
Jeff
Yes it is $300 US
Mike
Thanks mike, should I pm you about ordering some?
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Here are the pictures for the Toy CV Mod.
Picture 1:
[(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/kozaz/Zuks/Trackers/Tracker%20Mods/101_2378.jpg)
Picture 2:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y4/kozaz/Zuks/Trackers/Tracker%20Mods/101_2377.jpg)
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if your interested in getting a set or other tec ??'s pm me if you want stan
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we need to make up a new stub axle for the plate to bolt to?
thanks
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we need to make up a new stub axle for the plate to bolt to?
thanks
In a Non-Anvil application the Pass side stub needs to be cut at the base of the big cup.The plate has a notch in it to line up the stub and yes it will need to be welded.
Mike
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we need to make up a new stub axle for the plate to bolt to?
thanks
In a Non-Anvil application the Pass side stub needs to be cut at the base of the big cup.The plate has a notch in it to line up the stub and yes it will need to be welded.
Mike
great idea about the notch to make things easy. i'm seeing if a few others in my club wants a kit too so we can get them shipped over together.
Thanks
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I was wondering what you use for a seal in the back of the spindle.
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I was wondering what you use for a seal in the back of the spindle.
The brass bushing matches the seal in the back of the knuckle.
Mike
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that makes sense thanks
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bump,
for all those people having a hard time finding this thread.
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Hey does anyone have pics of this kit installed. Im still puzzled bout the hub side. So far im captivated!
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this weekend i should have my kit installed :) will be taking photo's of the intall.
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Hey does anyone have pics of this kit installed. Im still puzzled bout the hub side. So far im captivated!
Here is the outer from the rockstar
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Stan, are these kits still available? I am considering this..
I use the passenger stub shaft from one of my broken CV's and have it welded to the flange in the kit, right?
Then everything else is bolt in?
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Stan, are these kits still available? I am considering this..
I use the passenger stub shaft from one of my broken CV's and have it welded to the flange in the kit, right?
Then everything else is bolt in?
Stan might not be online for a while. It snowed and he plows as a second ...third job ::).
Yes you are correct. If you mail him your axles he will weld them for you too. It doesnt cost any more just the extra shipping to him. I would also weld both sides. It gives you more clearance on the inner cups. Stan knows where to weld them for maximum clearance.
Mike
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Ahh, cool, he cuts off the stock flange on the drivers side and just welds the plate to the stub on that side too?
That is nice..
I am going to think hard about this one next time I break a stock CV
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some pics of my finished install.....
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more
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Can someone tell me the exact modifications required and what year axles the used? ??? ;D
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One thing I wanted to ask, that I missed somewhere.. is the "Hagen" widening needed for the mod? or is that optional? I will go search and read some more.. if I did the widening, would likely have to go back to a bigger offset, I am way out there as it is.. :D
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Yeah you have to do the widening mod to use the Toy stuff...
Ok FNG - (brief description with no measurements) 1st you have to take a driverside axle and cut off the flange. Next take a passenger side cv and cut off the stub end. Weld the stub to the flange. This is your passenger side inner axle.Next remove strut, coil spring and spindle. Remove the A-arm. Take a pair of pliers and flatten out the lip near the rear bolt hole. Measure 1/2 the distance from the original hole to the edge of the mount. Drill a new bolt hole thru the front side of the mount. Take your A-arm and reinstall the front bolt. Line up the rear of the A-arm and drill thru the backside of the mount. Weld a washer on the outside of your new bolt holes. When you get the adapters from Stan it will have very good instructions on how to modify your spindle, its pretty easy!!
Sorry if I forgot anything.. Quaddawg if you get the stuff I can come over and help you out with it.. FNG you can call me |removethispart|@ 812-744-5036 if you have any problems.
Bill
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Yeah you have to do the widening mod to use the Toy stuff...
Ok FNG - (brief description with no measurements) 1st you have to take a driverside axle and cut off the flange. Next take a passenger side cv and cut off the stub end. Weld the stub to the flange. This is your passenger side inner axle.Next remove strut, coil spring and spindle. Remove the A-arm. Take a pair of pliers and flatten out the lip near the rear bolt hole. Measure 1/2 the distance from the original hole to the edge of the mount. Drill a new bolt hole thru the front side of the mount. Take your A-arm and reinstall the front bolt. Line up the rear of the A-arm and drill thru the backside of the mount. Weld a washer on the outside of your new bolt holes. When you get the adapters from Stan it will have very good instructions on how to modify your spindle, its pretty easy!!
Sorry if I forgot anything..  Quaddawg if you get the stuff I can come over and help you out with it.. FNG you can call me |removethispart|@ 812-744-5036 if you have any problems.
Bill
Thanks,i was just wondering if the widening was needed.Do you still use the suzuki lockout hubs or toy hubs? Thanks again Mitch ;D
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Youll need the Toy locking hubs because of the spline count. I think the cvs are from 89-94 Toy truck or 4runner. Stan can answer that for sure.
Bill
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hey stan, how much total for your kit and for me to ship out BOTH the drivers and pass. side axles/cvs for you to just weld on your adapters?? let me know if this can be done. thanks
shane
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hey stan, how much total for your kit and for me to ship out BOTH the drivers and pass. side axles/cvs for you to just weld on your adapters?? let me know if this can be done. thanks
shane
I will tell Stan about your post, he hast been online much. Its just a few days till we leave for Moab and its crunch time ::) The kit is $300 +shipping I belive. You supply Toy CVs and lockouts
Mike
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So, is Stan's adapter, the Hagen widening mod (http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm (http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm)), Toy mini-truck CV & toy hub the only way to get Toy CV up front? What about using a Toy front Anvil?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318480 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318480)
Still very confused on how all this is supposed to go together.
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To avoid the Hagen widening thing we are going to use Nissan CV's - 10mm shorter than a stock Kick set up. Once you factor in the adaptor plate then it should fit no problem. Will do a post when it is all done with complete details.
Stans set up - Toy Cv's. Stans axle adaptor kit, bush and lockout adaptor. You need to widen the track ( move the lower ball joint out as per Hagens instructions ( look in the archive threads ). You also need to do a cut and plate mod to the right hand side axle ( also covered in Hagens archive threads ). Its all there, you just gotta have a look.
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Are you running the Calmini lift? This leaves the CV shafts further extended than the stock setup. If the Nissan shafts are shorter then you could run out of travel.
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Its all there, you just gotta have a look.
So, the link in my post (three up from this one) isn't the Hagen writeup? Is the Toy or Nissan CV stronger. The widening mod has other benefits, so I don't mind doing it. I just want to make sure I follow the proper procedure.
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Are you running the Calmini lift? This leaves the CV shafts further extended than the stock setup. If the Nissan shafts are shorter then you could run out of travel.
Yes running Calmini lift - the adaptors will be engineered to compensate for length. The plan is to cater for stock arm lifts as well - spacer thickness is the key.
BTW: The Nissan stub axle measures up EXACTLY the same as a stock Kick stub diameter ;)