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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: cj on October 18, 2005, 05:37:55 AM
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I have been working on this for a while and thought it may be of some interest to others. I wanted to use a LHS front driveshaft on the RHS for easy swaps and needing to carry only one side as a spare is great too. I also wanted to get a bearing in the housing for the RHS to provide better support. This mod could be done with either a 22 or 26 spline shaft. I upgraded to 26 spline for strength and swapped the sidegears in my ARB locker to suit. I designed a plug that carries the new bearing, circlip and seal. There was a bit of mucking around trying to find a bearing and seal of suitable dimensions that is readily available and not $$$. This plug means that I could revert back to a stock setup if the need ever arises or if I'd screwed up in my design and it didn't work. Getting enough clearance was an issue so I ended up going to countersunk bolts on the diff bracket and the flange. It all fits fine and I didn't need to widen the the front as Mike Hagen did to fit the same driveshafts both sides although I would suggest his mod is cheaper to do. Other things done at the time were to have a solid spacer made up for the pinion instead of the crushsleeve, the drivers side Calmini diff drop bracket now has two dowels in it along with the countersunk bolts to locate it better as it moved around before due to the difference in size between the bolts and the holes and a new mount had to be fabricated for the carrrier to the crossmember as the steel carrier must have come from a XL-7.
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/SANY0049.JPG)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/SANY0050.JPG)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/SANY0051.JPG)
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Nice work. I've always thought that there should be a bearing in there, any more pics?
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ok, how much?
start up your company, LHS Industries.
If i'm not mistaken, no one makes this that you can buy (except for the anvil).
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and if your not going to sell them can you give us some specs on the seal, bearing and plug?
Also withe the counter sunk bolts in the housing mount it looks like you could get away with normal bolts on the CV flange?
oh and ... NICE JOB! ;D
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and I thought that three lefts made a right? anyway i'm a sammie guy could some one show me where this bearing goes and what ya guys are up to here, thank's.
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good job mate, looks nice and tidy , shame i no longer run that setup as the whole mounts look so much stronger
I had no probs with my ally casing ARB 26 splines 33.12.50s . run it for just under a year before i changed to a live axle. with your setup i cant see you having an aissue
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I have been running this mod for about a year now, without the extra bearing, which BTW looks an excellent job. It was made for me by SuzukiJon here in the UK, the adaptor is tapped so it doesn't need a nut on the end.
I have changed a RHS driveshaft in the middle of a field in 20 minutes flat.
Nice job CJ
cheers
Nick
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Nice clean install. ;) Its so clean I dont quite understand how you did it. Is the inner axle stock with a homemade 3 bolt flange welded on it?
Mike
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Is CJ stick rubbing his hands together thinking about all the money he can make if he makes and sells these???
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I've got some more pics to come that will show some more detail. The inner axle is a LHS inner cut down and resplined. The reason the flange looks a little different is that as I was concerned about clearance between the diff bracket and the flange I decided to use countersunk bolts on both. As it turns out I only needed to do it one side. When countersinking the flange it doesn't leave much meat there so we built it up with weld and machined it. The carrier I designed for the bearing and seal just pushes into the standard axle housing and is secured by 4 small cap screws that the housing was drilled and tapped for. I looked at putting a nut on the back of the bearing carrier but discarded that idea as costly plus you would have to pull the whole diff apart to remove it. I then looked at a couple of other solutions including threading the carrier and the housing but felt this was the best plus this mod can be put back to stock in minutes if needed and can be used with an alloy housing and then removed and put into a steel one at a later date. The bearing is something I felt was missing from Suzuki's design and would be an improvement. No, I'm not going to be selling these. I just wanted to let you know another option is out there and anyone could have the necessary maching done. I don't have any decent drawings as this was just something I sketched out with a few dimensions and gave to the Machinist but I will try and get something together for others to use if they want.
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that is sweet If you could post the specs I will do it tomorrow
thats how sick of an individual I am
Peace Dustin
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I've got some more pics to come that will show some more detail. The inner axle is a LHS inner cut down and resplined.
cj, ningrams(Nicks is a cut down drivers cv with the passengers inner shaft end. welded together with enough space to clear those bolts however its tight
I have to say your job is full proof nice looks great and strong,
but Ningram(Nicks) is cheap and works. bearing in mind us zukers never have any spare money.
looking forward to more pics
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wow this looks sweet! waiting on more pics
STu
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Haven't forgotten, still waiting on the pics to be sent to me so I can post them. I need to sit down and figure out how to do a drawing to post with the sizes but it may be a while as I have never done that before.
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like I said before I would love to have the info for this mod
I like the Idea of not having to buy a calmini anvil
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if you can do a rough hand sketch I can turn it into a real nice CAD drawing for everyone and post it.
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any more info on this???
George
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(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/bearing.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/comparison.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/diff_parts.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/cj/assembly.jpg)
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if you can do a rough hand sketch I can turn it into a real nice CAD drawing for everyone and post it.
I'll do that.
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wow how did i miss this thread.
good job cj
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Chet, I am having problems sending you a PM but I have emailed you the sketch for you to make into a CAD drawing.
CJ
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CJ, did you heat treat the axle after you cut the splines?
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No, there was a little angst over that one but in the end a couple of factors came into play. The spline was re-cut within the induction hardened area (i.e. the induction hardening went deep enough), the stub axle being so short and not necked down means that there is a good chance the spline would go first anyway as there will be very little twist available in the shaft and also there can be problems when re-heat treating with the shaft going out of true (as I understand it, the Factory induction hardens first then does final machining after so that the axles are true) and I decided that I didn't want to risk that although I have since found a Heat Treater that could do the job. Next time around I would probably get a new stub axle machined up as it wouldn't have been that much more than shortening and resplining anyway.
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No, there was a little angst over that one but in the end a couple of factors came into play. The spline was re-cut within the induction hardened area (i.e. the induction hardening went deep enough), the stub axle being so short and not necked down means that there is a good chance the spline would go first anyway as there will be very little twist available in the shaft and also there can be problems when re-heat treating with the shaft going out of true (as I understand it, the Factory induction hardens first then does final machining after so that the axles are true) and I decided that I didn't want to risk that although I have since found a Heat Treater that could do the job. Next time around I would probably get a new stub axle machined up as it wouldn't have been that much more than shortening and resplining anyway.
OK, well beat the h*ll out of it and then tell us how it holds up ;D ;D
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Been doing a bit of that and so far, so good. ;D
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How are the CAD drawings going??? I would love to get my hands on them so I can make one of these.
Geogre
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sorry my fault. CJ sent them to me last week. and my computer at home took a crap! >:( I forgot to e-mail it to work. I will send it tonight and work on it tomorrow.
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Any word on those CAD drawings???
George
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Chet has done a great job of the drawing but the hold up is me now as I want to make sure it right before general release. I have had a small oil leak from the seal the other day and I'm having a look at that. Also looking at making a couple of small dimensional changes first before final posting.
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Thanks for the update keep us posted ;D
George
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hey I was just looking at that drawing today wondering what was up! Good to see its still holding up. the seal could be anything. Damn seals! ;D
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thought I would pull this back up and see how it's going?
George
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Also I found a cheap deal on a 22 spline shaft would that matter if I was going to have it cut down and resplined???
George
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possibly, I think the 26 spline are larger in dia.??
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22 spline shaft OD = 0.94
26 spline shaft OD + 1.08
>:(
o-well
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I just did the mod the other weekend. Some pics of teh results.. http://nbs4x4club.inergy.com.au/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.ShowItem&g2_itemId=659
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Good to other options.
Just been in touch with Chet and the drwaing should be available for all soon. :)
The mod can be done with either 22 or 26 spline shafts as long as they match your sidegear. the seal and bearing sizes are the same for both.
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I have the drawing done and in a .PDF format so you can print it out to take to machinist. either PM me or send an e-mail to chetcowan|removethispart|@shaw.ca and I will send it to you.
I may also put it on my webspace as well.
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Thanks Chet, great job ;D
OK guys here is what I did. Keep in mind that this was done with the Calmini diff drop bracket in place, not the standard Suzuki bracket so check the dimensions to see if it will work as is for your application and adjust where necessary. The different materials for the sleeve depending on the housing material are to prevent corossion problems down the track.
Hopefully some of you will find this useful. Post any feedback. I'd like to know what you think.
Cheers,
CJ
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That is a great looking mod. Maybe I'm just dumb, but it looks like you listed part numbers for the bearing, seal and circlip. Where are the part numbers from?
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That is a great looking mod. Maybe I'm just dumb, but it looks like you listed part numbers for the bearing, seal and circlip. Where are the part numbers from?
Sorry, never saw the Q when you posted it. The part numbers should help you get what you need. Things like seals, bearings etc have a pretty standard international code and any bearing supplier should know what they are. I went for pretty standard size stuff to make it easy to get replacements and also to keep the cost down.
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This was raised on another forum and I've noticed that the pics have gone so I'm posting some more again.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g283/cj_zuki/bearing.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g283/cj_zuki/comparison.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g283/cj_zuki/diff_parts.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g283/cj_zuki/SANY0049-1.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g283/cj_zuki/SANY0050-1.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g283/cj_zuki/SANY0051-1.jpg)
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CJ thanks for bringing this back to life. I really appreciate the drawing and the pictures. It looks like you used counter sunk bolts for the p/s diff bracket and for the three axle attaching bolts. This looks like a great mod for adding the d/s axle to the p/s. I like the fact that it adds more support with the extra bearing. What size are the cap screws that hold the adapter into the housing? Who did you have do the cut and respline on the inner axle shaft and any idea as to the cost of that?
Sorry for all the questions, but I really like this mod. Heck I might just get my lathe put back together and buy a chunk of aluminum and give it a go.
Last question, what other board is this being discussed on? Please send me a pm with the info if it isn't kosher to cross post that info into this forum.
Thanks!!
Mike
I also think that the pinion mount is pretty tough too.
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Can't remember what the cap screw size is but it is not critical, they just need to be a suitable dia. and length to fit.
I went a little overboard with all the countersunk stuff but at the time I was trying to make sure that the Calmini diff drop bracket was located in such a way that it could not move anymore as this was a contributing factor to the original alloy diff breaking and I also was not completely sure how much clearance I would have to the CV flange bolts.
The pinion mount is made using some suspension bushes to suit the XL-7 housing mount style.
I have put some decent loads through it all and still have had no problems so I am very happy but for cost and quick results just cutting a flange off a inner axle shaft and welding it to the CV cup cut to the right length is a pretty attractive option. I just wanted to make it as good as I could figuring it would get used for a long time.
The discussion on the other forum is in the UK and it was someone asking for details on Mike's mod and someone else mentioned that I had also done something so I just posted up the link and found the pics were missing.
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Nice work, I was just thinking on how to do this today, and here is the answer thanks. Nice work!!!
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Just thought I'd let you know that this is still working fine. It is currently in my 2.0 swb which has the same chassis setup as the Sport. Apart from needing to mod the diff drop brackets due to the different chassis width, I also needed to make up a spacer (the flanges cut off the LHS inner axle shafts work for this) to use with a standard 1.6 LHS CV/axle for use on the RHS as the diff is positioned slightly differently in the Sport chassis and you can't use the Sport LHS CV/axle due to its longer length.