ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: wedge on September 30, 2005, 01:08:35 PM
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Well, I just replaced my water pump/timing belt on my 89 tracker with the 1.6 8v. Now I'm getting leakage from the front main seal, so I pulled everything back apart, but I can't get the front crank bolt off to remove the timing belt pully, but I can't get the bolt out of the crank. I've been using a srapwrench on the drive pully without success, tried a prybar, and an impact wrench to no success, any tips please.
Thanks guys ???
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A good 1/2 inch impact should get it off,
if that doesn't work, you got problems
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guess I need a better impact wrench.
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check the base of the bolt for a spot weld. that was the storie with the motor I pulled out of my kik, spot welded almost all of the bolts to the block, stupid ass thing to do but some people should be shoot when they pick up a wrench.
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*cut*
see better thread below
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I don't recall reverse threads on mine but I wrapped a rag around the pully and used a chain wrench and a breaker bar with a socket and damn it was tight.
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anyone else think its left hand threads????
Thanks guys
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I don't think mine is, it came loose while I was turning the engine over. I'm sure I would have noticed if it was LH thread. FSM says to turn crank clockwise when checking timing which implies a conventional thread. Usually I put mine in gear with the brakes on and give it a good whack, a 2ft bar on the end of the socket helps too.
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You're right, turning the crank to align TDC for timing belt replacement is done the regular direction. I'll edit my other post. Don't know what i was thinking there. There's something that i can't remember right now that's LH thread, but must have been on a different engine...
My memory comes back to me now... loosen the crank bolt with the engine in gear and tires on the ground with hand brake on and IGNITION COIL WIRE REMOVED. The crank can't turn unless the tires turn then.
140 ft. pounds rings another bell in my head for appropriate torque settings, but i'm going from an unusually poor memory here.
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This puppy can be a pain to remove!
Looking at the bolt, it comes loose by turning it counter-clockwise or to the left from above the bolt.
It is on very tight -- 140 foot pounds sounds right.
I would recommend a squirt of PB blaster and a hydraulic jack tube-handle on the end of your ratchet handle to add to the torque pressure. You can anchor the crank by putting a chain-style vice grip on the timing belt pulley/gear and letting the grips' handle rest of something conveniently in it's rotational path. Try to connect the grips close to the surface that will stop rotation as you will be turning the engine over backwards.
Breaking the bolt is possible as is extracting the broken remains. However, it is something you desparately want to avoid! I know. Oh do I know...
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I had a similar problem with a Civic once (my friends! Now stop throwing tomatoes...). We tried every possible trick (except turning the motor over and blocking with a long tube on the ratchet) and it never worked.
We ended up renting a 3/4" electric impact. The only problem we had was finding a 3/4" - 12" adaptor for my socket. After that it was easy as pie. Just tighten the bolt for 1-2 seconds to loosen it. Then unscrew it. It'll take 3-5 seconds tops.
Just hope the impact fits in there. Haven't worked on my sidekick much yet. As they say, if it ain't broken. Don't fix it!
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I had a similar problem with a Civic once (my friends! Now stop throwing tomatoes...). We tried every possible trick (except turning the motor over and blocking with a long tube on the ratchet) and it never worked.
I've used a little heat on mine about a month ago. Oxy/Acet. And it zipped right out. The impact alone would not get it out, and it was the same impact that put it in ;D
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i stuck a wrench on it and turned the engine overm worked fine
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i stuck a wrench on it and turned the engine overm worked fine
:o :o :o :o
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My thoughts exactly... ;D
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Tried the impact, 2 foot breaker bar, the torch, putting it in gear and all the compinations, no luck. so I'm gonna try fixing the oil leak in the front cover without pulling the timing pully.
Thanks for the ideas though
Ken
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Put the socket on it, wedge the breaker bar
in the frame and kick the starter, I forgot
about this way and it has worked for others
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What are you using for an impact gun? I had to borrow a "better one" from my mechanic friend, I think it would handle more air pressure or something.
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its just an ok impact wrench. The starter button trick worked great. Thanks guys
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hey same problem here but the head snapped off the bolt, theres a little shank sticking out now but its stuck as its going to get, how can i remove it?
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At this point, i'd give up and buy a new engine...
What a bummer for you.
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i sure hope one bolt doesnt cause that i mean this thing spanks the banks and passes ca smog i dont want to give up that easy.....anyone else have any ideas? ???
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hey same problem here but the head snapped off the bolt, theres a little shank sticking out now but its stuck as its going to get, how can i remove it?
weld on a nut, and then use that to spin it off ... dunno how much you have to work with.
Could also try cutting a clean slot into the bit sticking out and use the slot to break it free.
I'd also think that getting the end redhot to help break the bond may help ...
good luck
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If it runs so well why do you need to remove
the crank bolt ???
I think you need to remove the engine to be
able to get into where the bolt lives and work
with it. Wait until you need to do major work,
You can change the timing belt with the bolt
in, just remove the small hex head screws to
get the pully off for that
Wild
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I'd check with a machinist. ÂÂ
Find one that will work for beer.
If it wrung the head of the bolt then you are probally not going to back it out easily.
I just did one and mine was a SOB to get out.  Now I need a tap to clean the threads, 10x1.25 I think. ÂÂ
And a few good ideias on crank keyway repair.
I start a new thread on this repair, Not intending to Hyjack...
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Kickcrank1.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Kickkey1.jpg)
JB Weld to correct the damaged keyway and some Loc-tite 609 on the shaft.ÂÂ
Loc–Tite # 609, Cylindrical Type ( Green ) high viscosity / high temperature, and # 680, medium viscosity / high strength. This is used when you must fill and ‘ voids ‘ or wear on a shaft when mounting a gear or pulley. It is usually not necessary to use any heat on this type to make it release. Remember to clean the oil off the mating parts before using Loc–Tite. Acetone or plain alcohol usually works well.
Looking into possibly drilling and taping the (Crank / pully) mating area opposite the keyway and adding a set scred to take some of the load from the key.