ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Model Specific Suzuki Forum => Suzuki XL-7 (Gen. 1 Platform) 2001-2006 => Topic started by: nomaad on December 12, 2004, 12:58:32 AM
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I am moving my topic here from a NC board as the sammy folks don't offer much good info if you don't have a sammy. Maybe I'll have better luck here.
First off I was intitially planning on a body lift to reach my my goal. After visiting http://www.jeppaplast.is/ a maker of flares for our truck, they say with these on the fender mods made you can run 32-33" tires no problems. So I am bypassing the body lift for right now as metal work will be much more simple at this point.
Jag, you'll be glad to know I have decided against the 235/85. With these flares I can run a much wider tire as well. I am looking around at sizes right now as I don't want TOO much to push around out on the trails with stock gearing. Also, I think a narrower tire may benefit the front axles a little. I have in my mind that if I am gripping too good that may be when breakage occurs. Most of the breakage I have witnessed involves 34s and greater with flotation sizes. Any thoughts??
Also custom front and rear bumpers are in the planning stages as there are no good outlets for them here in the US. Shipping would be way too expensive on a heavy item such as these.
I been looking at some of the Taiwan sites and have noticed alot of folks over there using the ProComp MX6 shocks on the rear. Any thoughts here?
I am going to be replacing the Calmini struts with OME struts as they are a little over 1" longer. Any thoughts here?
I am going to be adding back spacing to the new rubber. either with new rims or machined. I am thinking that with the increased lever angle that a set of RR spacers may work well in the front and with the added weight of the new bumper will keep front drive lines about the same. I have seen a set of GV SS brake lines, I have to get with the guy though and find out where he got them. Any thoughts?
One thing that does concern me is the mounting bracket for the third member in the front. After the lift Calmini supplied new hangers for the Diff but did not address the binding that is occuring on the third. I have noticed when running on the beach and trails that there is a lot of vibs being transfered at higher speeds through the braket. Also for me when I turn a tight switchback or corner on the trail, I get a little scrub sound from the front drive shaft as I am turning. Anyone else notice this with the lift? I am thinking either the exhaust rubber hangers need to be adjusted for clearance or the rubber in the third member bracket need to be stronger to keep it from wanting to turn out. Thoughts?
Last but not least a snorkel for the front end. No so much for water crossings as for the benefits of it on the trail and road. Inducted air, cleaner, so on . . .
Any help, tech or any other thoughts will be welcome. Thanks in advance.
I plan on having this build up complete by the April running of Uwharrie NP. I will be keeping notes and pictures of the build up in case anyone wants to reproduce the results.
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I am moving my topic here from a NC board as the sammy folks don't offer much good info if you don't have a sammy. Maybe I'll have better luck here.
Glad to have you here hope we can help.
First off I was intitially planning on a body lift to reach my my goal. After visiting http://www.jeppaplast.is/ a maker of flares for our truck, they say with these on the fender mods made you can run 32-33" tires no problems. So I am bypassing the body lift for right now as metal work will be much more simple at this point.
I don't see how bigger flarrs will get you 33''s. I have 31's on right now and I think that about as big as you can go with out moveing the rear axles back about 2' or so. Mine almost touch the rear doors
Jag, you'll be glad to know I have decided against the 235/85. With these flares I can run a much wider tire as well. I am looking around at sizes right now as I don't want TOO much to push around out on the trails with stock gearing. Also, I think a narrower tire may benefit the front axles a little. I have in my mind that if I am gripping too good that may be when breakage occurs. Most of the breakage I have witnessed involves 34s and greater with flotation sizes. Any thoughts??
245/75/16 look real good with a calmini 2.5 lift and a little trimming ::)
George
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Hi everyone, I guess I am the newest member and I hope that someone can help me. I have a 88 zuk and want to do a susp. lift, I do not know which one to use. I want to run 31's and I am looking at the calmini 5" reverse shackle or the OME 6" does anyone have a better plan. I need a bolton kit. Thanks
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Blacknight, I have seen your 245s on. I got you to put some pics of them and what you trimmed. They look sweet. I am actually thinking about the Yoko ATs or the Kumho MT haven't decided yet.
Actually the flares are for when I trim the fenders. I am looking some parts from Taiwan that I can use to move the rear axle back 2". I am also talking with machine shop about possibly modifying the calmini A-arms to move the front axle .5 to an inch forward.
I know you have been looking at a 3" body lift. Have you put in any thought as to what you will have to do to the truck? They have a 3.5" in Taiwan on the FTS site I believe that Joejoekuo put up.
I'm going to have to get up that way and hit Paragon with you guys this year. ;D
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After some more wheeling this weekend and with some sloppy trails, are you sure you want to go with a larger flare? Reason is, I was climbing a soft topsoil incline. (Didn't have enough air out to get good bite with the weight shift.) The trail makes you steer left to right to left again. While trying to stay in the trail and to get bite, speedo was at 20 mpg and I was moving 1' per hour (real slow!!!), the front tires too bite and swung my sideways to a 3' dia. tree. I came within inches to contact. Any damage would be easily repaired with replacement panels, whereas custom flares are quite more expensive. My previous experience: I had a set of Bushwacker flares for a Ranger on my XJ years ago. No one made anything for the XJ in the early 90's. So I adapted. On those, I had to replace several of the flares. I could only buy per pair (front or rear). Cost was ~$250 pair.
(I'm looking at doing this - collecting information/hardware and looking for a 5-sp XL7 2wd preferred:) get rid of the rack and pinion steering. Go back to the steering box setup as this leads to a lot of different options. Next, look into dropping the front axle. Since the pinion is secured to the top of the welded crossmember, see about securing it to the underside giving some 3" drop. Then add a drop bracket/diff housing bucket for the rear portion of the control arm. The control arm's front mount is mounted to something which looks like it's bolted on. Add a spacer to that to drop that or make it part of the bucket. Since you already have the Calmini arms, look into ridding the rubber bushing and adding a heim or johnny type bushing. By relocating the rear mount (see below), this places the front mount into a bind. Heims/Johnny can be used as a misalignment bushing. Adding an upper bracket for the strut is rather easily performed and is only necessary for the lift. To gain some room for larger tires in the rear portion of the wheelwell, in the rear drop bracket configure the mount so that the control arm is swung outward (ie Hagen's front adjustment article here on Zukiworld). Did you notice that the entire front axle from hub to hub is not in a straight line? The hubs are about an 1" back from alignment. (I have pics in my album.)
Then, rather than dropping that aluminum housing, look into the Anvil so get a flange for both cv axles. Since anvil is steel, adapting is a lot easier. Getting a Trackick front housing to fit a front locker and matching gears. Then step up to the TORA cv's coming out real soon. CVs are twice as big as stock. Front is completed.
For the rear axle, you'll have to step down to the Vitara axle to gain the capability for gears/lockers. Not sure if the Vitara axle has the ds with the rubber bushing, but I would gather a guess that you could swap over the pinion ds flange to keep your stock rear ds configuration. But since you are moving axle backwards, its a mute point.
Rear lift comes from standard coils, shocks can be from an XJ front. To move the axle backwards, look at Izuzu Rodeo lower control arms. They are ~23" long, whereas XL7 ~16". You could bend then for better ground clearance and the mount will be near the rear mid body mount. If not Izuzu, aftermarket Jeep control arms have adjustability and are near ~16" long. I'm researching to find if the bushings will fit into stock XL7 mounts. For the upper control arms, I'm still researching this, but thinking something along the lines of adjustability to maintain pinion angle, so looking at the shortest control arm for the Jeep with adjustment. If lower control arms are adjustable, it's not necessary for the uppers. Track arm will be longer with adjustment and raised to be on top of the axle. Got to keep the track arm parallel as best and to keep it out of the way of other things. Not modifying the drop bracket off the frame. If this gets longer, this induces more torque arm on the drop bracket. The track arm may have to be bent to clear the diff housing since moving the rear axle backwards. There is room to do this and not interfere with the gas tank. (Not sure if the Vitara tank is any smaller if there was a need for this.)
Another obstacle, though minor could be a PITA to deal with, since front diff is engaged with pressure from an air pump, the ECM is notified when it's engaged. Why? I can only see about showing a light on the dash, but I don't know how to evaluate the program in the ECM to find out.
First thing is to determine the potential tire size. Biggest obstacle is the front floor pan for the tires. By moving the rear front control mount outward, you make that a bigger space. Thus Blacknight's comments and previous pics. I think I can not take some good pics of showing where the tires rub as my wheelwells are full of mud. The tires will clear the mud and show the rub points.
Adding wheel spacers will only introduce another problem as the tire's edges is farther out and contact is greater this way. With a different offset of wheel and tire combo, you may be able to 'squeeze' the tire right on in. Add larger lug nuts to the spindle and use your current tire wheel combo. Measure the difference out with stock and spacers to get an idea of the changes.
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I have looked into two replacement axles for the rearend. Spidertrax and Currie.
Both say they can do me an axle. I am waiting for a price from both but here is what Spidertrax have sent back so far.
Hi Bill,
Yes it can. We would recommend considering the new Spider 9 axle though. It is fully customizable so we can set it up just for the XL-7 but it would be able to handle the power no problem. It uses a 9" third member. The Sidewinder uses a Sidekick rear third member so in either case you will be switching out the third member which is recommended if you want good options for gears and lockers. The Spider 9 is significantly stronger and the rear axle price is going to be very similar. More information on the Spider 9's will be available on the website early next year, the expected release date of that product. If you need anything else please let us know.
Sincerely,
Spidertrax Tech
Team Spidertrax
www.spidertrax.com
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Joejoekuo, Favor? check this site out and tell me were this guy got the new brake lines. Please and thanks . . .
http://www.offroad.org.tw/dousun/gv/index.htm
I think it is like the fourth link down.
Also, Jag and other, what are you guys doing with the brake line that comes over the frame to the drum when you are extending the shocks in the rear? I know when I disconnect the track bar it droops about another 2" then the brake lines are stressed all the way out as well. I have the braided line from the control to the housing but those side runners would have to be addressed, right?
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Joejoekuo, Favor? check this site out and tell me were this guy got the new brake lines. Please and thanks . . .
http://www.offroad.org.tw/dousun/gv/index.htm
I think it is like the fourth link down.
Also, Jag and other, what are you guys doing with the brake line that comes over the frame to the drum when you are extending the shocks in the rear? I know when I disconnect the track bar it droops about another 2" then the brake lines are stressed all the way out as well. I have the braided line from the control to the housing but those side runners would have to be addressed, right?
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....snip....Also, Jag and other, what are you guys doing with the brake line that comes over the frame to the drum when you are extending the shocks in the rear? I know when I disconnect the track bar it droops about another 2" then the brake lines are stressed all the way out as well. I have the braided line from the control to the housing but those side runners would have to be addressed, right?
Do not disconnect the track bar. The track bar is the bar which is attached to the driver's side of the rear axle to the passenger side frame rail. This bar is necessary to maintain the axle underneath the vehicle. The control arms are parallel to the frame and perpendicular to the axle, and this provides little to none side to side movement of the axle.
As for the brake line, you could disconnect it from the frame mount, pull it through, cut a slit in the mount to direct the steel line through, then add a simple extension to the frame mount to relocate the adapter (hard to soft line) and secure it.
What will really limit the droop is the parking brake, I've found.
I've got some stock XJ front shocks on now and these provide another 1+ inch of droop. I went full compression (non-stock suspension) and still had 1.5" of shock shaft left (pics coming also), so I'll be looking into something more in length with less compression.
Bad News: while looking over the -7 from last weekends wheeling today, I've found I've cracked the diff housing on the top edge. I'll have to drain it as there was mud, water, etc.
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Joejoekuo, Favor? check this site out and tell me were this guy got the new brake lines. Please and thanks . . .
[url]http://www.offroad.org.tw/dousun/gv/index.htm[/url]
I think it is like the fourth link down.
I am sorry I didn't get what you want to know. Could you show me the pic and point-out where you want to know! Thanks!
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I have looked into two replacement axles for the rearend. Spidertrax and Currie.
Both say they can do me an axle. I am waiting for a price from both but here is what Spidertrax have sent back so far.
Hi Bill,
Yes it can.  We would recommend considering the new Spider 9 axle though. It is fully customizable so we can set it up just for the XL-7 but it would be able to handle the power no problem.  It uses a 9" third member.  The Sidewinder uses a Sidekick rear third member so in either case you will be switching out the third member which is recommended if you want good options for gears and lockers.  The Spider 9 is significantly stronger and the rear axle price is going to be very similar.  More information on the Spider 9's will be available on the website early next year, the expected release date of that product.  If you need anything else please let us know.
Sincerely,
Spidertrax Tech
Team Spidertrax
www.spidertrax.com
I'd second an order for such a rear axle, though I'd want the axle be full float design, if they could, and possibly work with the ABS.
Then see if they could fab up a front steel axle housing to bolt in the Vitara model. Looking at using the stock driver's side inner axle shaft, and a similar shape passenger side inner axle shaft (cut and respline driver's side), so that only one cv axle can be used. I've cracked my housing and require a replacement. Calmini's Anvil housing won't fit (bolt in) to the Vitara model, but with a little working on the mounts, I think it could. This option would provide a matching gear ratio/locker capability to the rear axle. Under the article archive, there is an article of using a XL7 diff housing, locker for Sami, Tracker gears. What would really make this steel housing a plus, would to be able to have C-clip axles capability with a removable center cap.
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Jagular, I don't remove my track bar . . . I was referring to when I was I adding the Calmini bracket when I put my lift on. I noticed then that when the track bar is released and I push down on the housing to get the springs in that the brake line coming over the frame is stressed. So what I was getting at is that it would have to moved or extended. I would really like to replace it with braided lines but I can seem to find anyone making any for front or the rear. I guess if I could find out what size they are I could buy for another application but I think they use some sort of weird sizing chart (-3, -4 sort) So how do you find the size?
Joejokuo,
I was talking about on that web site the guy is showing all his modifications, I was wondering if you could figure out where he bought the braided brake lines found on the link that is 6.????:
They say Bendix on the box but I have search all over and can't find those for our trucks.
Also, ment to tell you that Hawk Suzuki has those steel XL-7 housings for 350.00 something US, I'll have to check the email tomorrow at work. I forgot what the exact price was.
Thanks
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Also, Joejoekuo, Where can I get one of those awesome shovel holders that mounts on the tire carrier you guys over there are using?
And if you can, it seems this guy on that website changed out his rear axle to a Dana 44? Atleast that is what I got from my translation of it, can you see if he just bolted one in or had one custom made?
I really appreciate it.
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Joejokuo,
I was talking about on that web site the guy is showing all his modifications, I was wondering if you could figure out where he bought the braided brake lines found on the link that is 6.????:
They say Bendix on the box but I have search all over and can't find those for our trucks.
Thanks
I didn't see where he bought the brake lines? He just thought it will be more safe when changing bigger tires to replace the brake system. But I believe the brake lines are not Bendix products.
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Also, Joejoekuo, Where can I get one of those awesome shovel holders that mounts on the tire carrier you guys over there are using?
And if you can, it seems this guy on that website changed out his rear axle to a Dana 44? Atleast that is what I got from my translation of it, can you see if he just bolted one in or had one custom made?
I really appreciate it.
It's easy to buy the shovel holder and cost about $40 dollars. (http://www.fts4x4.com.tw/fts4x4/prodimg/DSCF1847.JPG)
I just know he changed the rear axle to Dana, and TRUETRAC 44 is LSD(He said). I think he didn't use a custom made one.
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That shovel holder is neat. Any web address for ordering?
On the brake lines, thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
He also did a 3.5" body lift. Do you have any idea if that kit would work for XL-7? I that is either 5wd or FTS that sells that. But just wondering if you have heard or know anyone with a body lift on the XL-7?
Thanks again. ;D
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UPDATE: Been speaking with Rocky Road extensively about the 2" body lift they have. They have offered me a kit for me to try it on for size. I will be posting pics as soon as work begins.
Thanks Rocky Road and Glenn Wakefield. You guys are awesome.
On another note. I was checking out a Japanese 4x4 site and came across this. Thought you guys might like it.
(http://www.carneyco.com/truck/XL-7Lifted.jpg)
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Cool, glad things are at least going forward. Are you going to be doing the step-by-step procedures? Once you get the kit, I'd like some detail for their steering spacer. That adapter under the master brake could be swapped for another to gain better length on the shaft, but by my quick measurements, were only talking about 1/4" length necessary for a 2" body lift. Although, I could see an adapter added to where the joints are.
I'd also look into cutting 4 spacers in half longitudinally (not across the circumference) for those center body mounts. Otherwise, you'll be tilting the body just to clear the spacer under the body stud. Talk to a few of your Zuwharrie Sami buddies with a body lift. Samis have the body stud configuration.
As for that white XL7 with the 6" body lift, I hate it. I really don't get the look of getting real high with tires that don't match the size. Be better off trimming out the wheelwells.
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Forgot, do you have the 7 seater or 5 seater? I don't think the rear ac lines are attached to the frame. Auto or manual?
Have you at all bent the middle rear body mount? It's right under the rear doors and the end hangs lower than the frame mount.
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Yeah I like how it still seems to have stock clearance even with the huge height. ;D
I believe everything should be order for the body lift. None of the studs are bent as far as I know. I counted 8 bolted mounts and 4 poly spacers. Sound right to you? I had the 4 in the middle 4 for the frame ends and then the spacers.
RRO supplies the extensions and new front brake lines as well. The normal kit comes only with one set of poly spacers but they are throwing in a second set for our application. Once I get into to it I will be working with a local guy to fabricate the brackets for the bumpers. Although in the end I won't need them as I am putting custom front and rear bumpers on once they are completed.
What were you talking about the master brake bracket?? You talking about for the Ebrake?
Also, 7 seater, automatic. Supposedly there should be no need to extend the shifters with the 2", although they said they can send the extensions if I like. Hmmm?../.?
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Here are a couple of pics to where the shaft of the XL7 has a point which could be lengthened.
The joints. Notice how close they are to the frame. There is nothing attached to the frame.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/100_0480.JPG)
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/100_0477.JPG)
From under the dash. The shaft starts here from the steering wheel to the inner shaft through the firewall.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/100_0478.JPG)
Rotating you can see the bolt holding the shaft in the adapter. In my Bronco for it's 2" body lift, an adapter went between them.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/100_0479.JPG)
This is what I'm talking about being under the master brake cylinder. This little adapter mates 2 shafts together. When lifting the body off the frame, this adapter's position will rise 2" so the angle of the shafts will change. The length of the entire shaft assembly will need to grow as the lift is straight up. Somewhere there has to be compensation for the vertical lift, recall geometry???
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/100_0481.JPG)
From this view, you can see the adapter has room to relieve for space consideration. In my measurements of 2" bl, the down shaft will need to extend greater than 1/4", so compensation on the 2 shafts is possible. RR provides a spacer someplace in the shaft assembly.
Calmini did a custom 1-off bl for a Vitara for Yankee Tim. Without stating exactly where Calmini added a spacer, he led me to believe it was on the joint assembly.
Since the angle of the joint assembly is in an alignment to the r&p, I would think the point before the joints would be extended, basically adding length to the shafts to that point.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/midmount bent.jpg)
This is the passenger side rear mid mount. See how it could bend. That little metal bracket guard didn't do much work.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/midmount front bent.jpg)
For body lift spacers, you'll need 8 spacers total (1 for each point), 4 long bolt/nut (for the frame ends), and 4 tube nuts (for the mid mounts - see
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/nut sert1.jpg)
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/nut sert2.jpg)
To add, since the wheelbase is so long, it would be best to place a spacer at the body point midway between the front and rear mid points. The floor has many supports and that would be a great place to keep tension on the floor.
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That shovel holder is neat. Any web address for ordering?
On the brake lines, thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
He also did a 3.5" body lift. Do you have any idea if that kit would work for XL-7? I that is either 5wd or FTS that sells that. But just wondering if you have heard or know anyone with a body lift on the XL-7?
Thanks again. ;D
Link to FTS for shovel holder: http://www.fts4x4.com.tw/fts4x4/index.php3
Write a mail to ask them!
And body lift photo: GV body lift
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p05.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p06.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p07.jpg)
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XL-7 body lift 2.5" and Calimini 2.5" lift kit. THe tire size is unknow!
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p01.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p02.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p03.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p04.jpg)
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My internet friend(XL-7 long feet) just did the body lift two weeks ago. He just add 3" spacer and 4" for suspension. Tires are still 245/70/16 size. He did all the modifications at 5-Wheel store. http://www.5wd.com.tw/p1.asp
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p10.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p11.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p12.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p13.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p14.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p15.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p16.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p17.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p18.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p19.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p20.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p21.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p22.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p23.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p24.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p25.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p26.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p27.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p28.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p29.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p30.jpg)
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My friends went off-road. This is 5-wheel family tour for wild hot spring!
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p31.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p32.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p33.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p34.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p35.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p36.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p37.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p38.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p39.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p40.jpg)
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p41.jpg)
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Cool pics, I need to get to Taiwan....Thanks.
Any lessons learned from his work?
I notice he used the shock stub conversion on the rear shock. I've got a set and wasn't sure if it was necessary. Only concern I have is with the overall width of the shock body as the track arm mount on the axle is mighty close to it during droop on left side, compression of right side.
What did he do for the steering shafts?
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My internet friend(XL-7 long feet) just did the body lift two weeks ago. He just add 3" spacer and 4" for suspension. Tires are still 245/70/16 size. He did all the modifications at 5-Wheel store.  http://www.5wd.com.tw/p1.asp
joejoekuo,
Do you know if they sell there 4" and 3"  as kits or is something like they only do in their shop?
Also I tried to find an email address for them but couldn't find it :-/ So that I could bug them instead of bugging you  ::)
George
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Joejoekuo,
Where the guy with GV get that front bumper? That thing is awesome looking . . .
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Nomaad, are you referring to this
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/p06.jpg)
The bumper has that Trail Ready design, but consider the smooth edges under the bumper as well as the angles of the plate to be a problem to use a hi-lift on.
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Looks alot like a Trail Ready design heres their Jeep Lib. Makes me think that they made it fix to the GV. Just more to think about.
(http://www.trailready.com/images/jeep_vehicles/libby_std_front_bump_lg.jpg)
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Shoot I would have some notches cut in for the hi-lift with that bumper. That thing is sweet looking! Come on admit it . . . ;D you know you like it.
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Alright I fired off an email to Trail Ready to see if it is theirs. I was looking for prices however and it looks like they run around $950. IF thats the case it back to the ho made one for me. That would be way of the budget for my mods this year. Sweet looking bumper though!
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Joejoekuo,
I noticed 5wd has the steel front diff and third for sale as well. That would let you avoind shipping I would imagine.
http://www.5wd.com.tw/p1a.asp?num=149&twoproname=%a9%b3%bdL%c3%fe
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What do you have to read the web sites?
As for Trail Ready, the Liberty forums speak of all the different designs for them on the bumpers. I think TR was the heaviest in weight. ARB makes a bumper for the Libertys as well as the Vitaras (Seen pics on one of those Chinese site links).
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use this http://world.altavista.com/
should be chinese-trad to english.
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I am on a MAC so it has about 30 languages built into Sherlock for translations. I have done some pretty crazy searches on the google.tw search page as well with Sherlock. The thing to figure out is how they are wording certain things, like we say "3" lift" they say "3 lift up" or fender flares are called over fenders. You get a lot more stuff that way.
Like this site in Japan. Looks like they sell a CD catalog of every manufacturer in Japan and elseware. Showing mainly Sami and Jimny but try clicking on the names of the companies right under the images and you get their full listing as well. Some sell universal and GV and XL-7 stuff. As for contacting them thats another story. Another search for the name using google.jp would probably work.
http://4wdsuv.auto-g.jp/cat/36/
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Cool pics, I need to get to Taiwan....Thanks.
Sure! Welcome to Taiwan. ;D
Any lessons learned from his work?
Yes! Spend a lot of money! :P
I notice he used the shock stub conversion on the rear shock. I've got a set and wasn't sure if it was necessary. Only concern I have is with the overall width of the shock body as the track arm mount on the axle is mighty close to it during droop on left side, compression of right side.
What did he do for the steering shafts?
I don't know! I haven't seen his car yet! I 'll take photos next time when I see him.
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joejoekuo,
Do you know if they sell there 4" and 3"  as kits or is something like they only do in their shop?
Also I tried to find an email address for them but couldn't find it :-/ So that I could bug them instead of bugging you  ::)
George
I think the 5-wheel boss only runs local business. But you couls write this e-mail address to him and ask: suzuki.hung501|removethispart|@msa.hinet.net
But I am not sure he will mail you back or not. I just know his English is very very poor! ;D
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Joejoekuo,
Where the guy with GV get that front bumper? That thing is awesome looking . . .
I have no idea where I can buy that bumper, but I know how to get the information. Actually I love this bumper,too. But the price is around $600 and need to order at least 5 pcs.
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Joejoekuo,
I noticed 5wd has the steel front diff and third for sale as well. That would let you avoind shipping I would imagine.
[url]http://www.5wd.com.tw/p1a.asp?num=149&twoproname=%a9%b3%bdL%c3%fe[/url]
I knew! My friends are asking the local dealer to update their Al-front-diff to iron with few money(about $60~150). That is the point!
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Like this site in Japan. Looks like they sell a CD catalog of every manufacturer in Japan and elseware. Showing mainly Sami and Jimny but try clicking on the names of the companies right under the images and you get their full listing as well. Some sell universal and GV and XL-7 stuff. As for contacting them thats another story. Another search for the name using google.jp would probably work.
[url]http://4wdsuv.auto-g.jp/cat/36/[/url]
That web-site is all talking about this book:
(http://home.pchome.com.tw/life/joejoekuo/mgz.jpg)
http://www.apollo-pr.co.jp/editorialdep/4p_page/2005/index.html
I bought this book(4WD.SUV buy guide)and got some data. But I feel disappointed because there is few pages about GV. In Japan, most of Suzuki suv are Jimny. But in Taiwan, we got Jimny and GV(L-7). If you guys could read Chinese, this is biggest L-7 family in Taiwan. The web-site is: http://clie.ws/bbs/index.php?c=23
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http://www.5wd.com.tw/p1a.asp?num=140&twoproname=%a9%b3%bdL%c3%fe
I think this is the body lift kit they sell.
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[url]http://www.5wd.com.tw/p1a.asp?num=140&twoproname=%a9%b3%bdL%c3%fe[/url]
I think this is the body lift kit they sell.
Yes! You are right. But 5wd didn't mention how many inches for this kit.
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Well I finally got a price back from Jeppaplast for their fiberglass fender flares for the Zuk. $1100 US . . . :'(
Looks like either the flares will come off and I may try carving some from a Montero Sport, or I am thinking I may be able to get away with stretching these with a little help from my Pop. He is an electrician and has the PVC stove. I mean if they have to come off either way, what do I have to lose.
My wife has also informed me my budget has been cut in half, so this is now a BUDGET build. Here are my options and I would like to know what you guys think I should do.
A. Buy the Yoko AT tires, OME struts, RRO body lift, wheel spacers, and spring spacers? Which would mean forgoing the front and rear bumper at this time, which if I leave them on would put me in jeopordy of having major rub occur. Or leave them off and have the truck look incomplete til I can save enough more money. You input.
B. Buy the Kumho AT 265/75, keep my spare, buy a welder, steel, OME struts, and RRO body Lift, and a used winch? Which would mean I would have a welder to do all my steel work but lack everything else.
C. EBAY route, offname tires, keep my spare, buy a welder, steel, OME struts, RRO body lift, used winch and wheel spacers? Which all I would be missing then would be spring spacers (which right now I don't know that I need).
Thanks in advance.
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hi guys im new to all of this good stuff. my question is what is the biggest tire i can fit on my 2004 xl7 without doing any other mods. also who makes a lift kit for this?
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Without any other mods you can safely put a set of 225/75 on with minor rub at full compression.
The kits you are looking for in US are at calmini.com and
For 1 3/8" spacers and OME 25mm lift springs go to rocky-road.com/kicksus.html
Some of the folks here have been putting 2" jeep spacers on and boring out the center to fit.
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I think if your going to lift your XL-7 you need to have a goal or end point (once you get their you'll just want more  ;D ) This will help in keeping costs down in the long run.  So what do you want? What are you going to be wheeling? (rocks,mud,ect)
George
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thanks alot for the info im gonna look up that site.
my goal is a 4-6 inch lift and i will be mudding. thats about it.
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Well your goal 4 to 6" is not un-do-able (is that even a real word?)
Well heres what you have to work with at this time:
Suspension
Calmini 2.5" Nice system and will take all you can through at it. Lots of flex. Rough ride are so people say (I don't think so)
RRO 2"+or- do to weight of xl-7 Sorter ride not as much flex reuses stock a-arms (camber issuse) and no adjustment forthe rear track bar.
Body lifts
RRO-- None as of right now working on 2" BD lift system
Calmini-- none as of right now they do have a 3" system just not for sale :-/
Bigballsoffroad 3" system (based out of AU)
Others- - 4 to 5" systems that I have seen but won't tell you about do to the fact that any thing over 3" is risky.
Tire Sizes
Stock 225/70/16=28"
2.5" 245/75/16 31" or may be 235/85/16???
2.5"+3" body 265/75/16 33" not 100% on this one
Locker, ect
None as right now how ever I did here that ARB may have something in the works ;D
Gears
No real option for R&P if you have an A/T (5.12r&p)
if you have a M/T you can up grade to the 5.12's
T-case
Have heard that xl's have differnt gears from GV's so this may be an issuse???
Calmini ???
RRO ???
Bigballsoffroad ???
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Well I made a special trip to my local tire store yesterday. I was actually going to pick up some take-offs so I could play around with the fit before I ordered my set of larger tires.
Well to make a long story short, I really don't care for the way the 265/75s look. They are on the verge of looking much narrower because of the sidewall height. So now I am thinking I may just go with a 265/70. They just look much beefier. But I have seen a set of 265/75s on a disco and really liked they looked but they were basically road tires so they had a wider footprint. I was also wondering if you guys thought the 32s might just be a little much to get going with our gear choice or lack there of?
This is going to screw the pooch so to speak on the 32s build however as they are only 30.7" (equal to 31x10.5).
What do you guys think? I am planning on fitting up the RRO body this weekend then trying to fit on whatever I can without having to break out the torch for the front footpan.
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watch how wide a tire you get. I have 245's and they rub the frame at full turn. Any larger and you will need new rims or wheel spacers.
George
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The spidertrax wheel spacers are ordered already. I ordered 1" and I am thinking this will do it. If not the backup plan is to order some of the steel rock crusher rims. When I tried on the 265/75s it really wasn't that bad so I am pretty confident that the spacer will pull it off the frame.
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The spidertrax wheel spacers are ordered already. I ordered 1" and I am thinking this will do it. If not the backup plan is to order some of the steel rock crusher rims. When I tried on the 265/75s it really wasn't that bad so I am pretty confident that the spacer will pull it off the frame.
Did you tell them they were for an Xl-7 if not you may run into a problem. The xl-7 and GV's have a small lip around the hub that needs to be cut into the spacer.
George
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Yeah I made sure they fit before I ordered them. Actually they are coming from RRO I just looked at my receipt. Now I got to find out what I ordered from Spidertrax . . . :-/
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Let us know how they fit when you get them.
George
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Blacknight . . .
So did you ever hear anything back from Calmini on the lift issue (not being but 3/4" different from stock)?
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....snip.... I am planning on fitting up the RRO body this weekend then trying to fit on whatever I can without having to break out the torch for the front footpan.
Do take pics of the hardware laid out. And how the pieces fit together. Good luck.
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Well, update time.
Looks like it will be a couple of weeks before I begin on the truck. I talked with RRO about my order and they said it will be delayed a couple of weeks as they are waiting on a shipment of struts. In my order there is the extended steering shaft part and extended brake lines. As I already the Calmini 2.5" (3/4") lift on the brake lines will be essential, and I really don't want to chance binding the steering as well.
I poked around a little more this morning and noticed I have quite a bit of stuff that will have to be released from the body. Namely the rear cooling lines and a bunch of electrical in the engine compartment. I am also now concerned with the strut tower brace. Something I never really considered. I could get some longer bolts and sleeves to raise it as well but I wonder if it would compromise the strength of the whole torsional relationship. I already have the Calmini supplied sleeves on.
Any thoughts on this matter is appreciated.
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About the only concerns you'll have to adding a body lift (2" right?), is anything connected to the body which then goes to the frame.
When I crawled underneath months ago, here is a little list from memory: steering shaft, front brake lines, ac lines from the condensor (front of radiator) as they run through openings in the front support, rear brake lines coming off firewall to frame, anything connected to firewall to frame (wires, fuel return line, fuel feed line, etc), gas tank feeder lines, parking break cable, diff breather lines. This doesn't contain the only list, but gives you an idea.
Those back seat ac lines underneath the vehicle are secured to the floor and not the frame. These should be fine. The radiator is separated from the front support area so that should be fine. The trans shifter (auto) should be fine as it's cable operated.
You'll by raising the body off the frame high enough to clear the spacer, this is the big concern on all items. You'll be lifting the body some 3+" just to clear the mid-body stud mounts. Then some more to place in the lift spacers. Dont' forget to support the points which the body rests on the frame without a specific mount. There should be 1 between the mid-body mounts. Just a simple rubber isolator glued to the frame.
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UPDATE . . . .
Got the OME struts on, they have ALOT more down travel. I am thinking about removing the Calmini strut spacer to kind of equalize the up and down. I need to see if this going to cause problems with the CVs.
Got the Spidertrax spacers on and had to get them ground on the inside edge for the front where it has a shoulder on the hub. The disk would have wobbled around in there if not, as the rim holds this on. The rear seems to be alright without it. It was $45 at a local machine shop to have it done. Pretty much a waste of money so far as I think I will be removing them. I really don't like the ride or steering with them on. I will see if I need them with the 265s on otherwise they will be sold.
Had the body lift on las week and it was riding like ****. Tore the lift off this weekend and got it fixed. I hate to say it (but in my defense, the directions were pretty poor as this lift has never been done on an XL-7 and this was my first body lift), I had the spacer on under the top body rubber and it should have been above with rubber sitting in the cup. This required me to bore the 4 center spacer out all the way through to 5/8" and 3/4" from the top to 13/16". It now rides great. Also readjusted the steering shaft at the pinion. I was off the mark a few teeth (that's what happens when you do your steering at 4:30 in the morning). So anyway, all is good. I have to get with Glenn at RRO about the front mount though as it is kinda weird and I want to make sure I have the spacer in correctly.
Pix and more info coming soon....
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You will find that Spacer + calmini strut = Same travel as just the OME strut.
I was running like this until I did 2 CVs within 6 weeks of installing the spacers with the OME. Changed back to just OME and removed the diff drop brackets and all has been well.
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You will find that Spacer + calmini strut = Same travel as just the OME strut.
I was running like this until I did 2 CVs within 6 weeks of installing the spacers with the OME.  Changed back to just OME and removed the diff drop brackets and all has been well.
So you have the Calmini 2.5" lift on? And when you took the drop brackets off how was the angle on the CVs? And your reccomending that I remove the strut spacer, correct?
Thanks.
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Yes, If you are going to run the OME struts, don't use the spacers. You can keep the drop brackets in just keep an eye on them
If your driving hard your can do this do them
(http://nbs4x4club.no-ip.org/images/100_04861.JPG)
(http://nbs4x4club.no-ip.org/images/100_04871.JPG)
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I thought the diff drop brackets were supposed to relieve stress on the CV's by keeping the angles closer to stock?
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I thought the diff drop brackets were supposed to relieve stress on the CV's by keeping the angles closer to stock?
Yes they are, but they can let the diff move around more. and this will let the cvs overextend anyway.
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Here is the project PDF for what has been done so far. Covers struts, body lift, steering extension, and bumper fix. Wheel spacers and wheel well trimming coming up soon.
http://www.carneyco.com/ProjectNomaad.pdf
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Hi!
I just got the RRO BL kit. I ordered a steering extension with it (and paid it), but the steering extension never got here. So I have a BL without a steering extension. I'm not sure if I want my money back or get them to send me the kit, though that is complicated. What happens if you don't install the steering extension? Shall something break? I wouldn't like to find myselt on the highay with no steering all of a sudden :-/
You say in your file it wasn't fun to find out you needed one. So did you try without one?
Thanks alot for the help.
Once again, the file is great, very recomendable.
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Sergei,
You absolutely need the steering extension. I had it but had not installed it and took it out for a test drive and the first corner I came to the coupling at the top pulled right of the top stub shaft, NO STEERING! Luckily no traffic at 2 AM .
IF I were you I would contact Glen Wakefield at Rocky Road and explain the situation. It may be that it is backordered. I most definately check on it though.
Good luck with the install. Drop me an email at bill|removethispart|@carneyco.com if you run into anything you need help with.
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OK, then i shall have to wait :(.
The problem is I had it sent to new york when i was there visiting. Now I am back in europe, so they would have to send it here. I bet they won't be happy when they find out the shipping cost to send it here. Besides the missing steering extension, there is also a missing pair of warn hub fuses. And they aren't returning e-mails. In their favor, there is a pair of brakeline extensions I never heard about, do they come with the BL kit?
Anyway, no more rambling as this is just burocratic problems, and no technical. I hope I'll be able to carry it out with the pdf file, it is realy good ;D
I forgot to thank you for your help! ;)
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If they are the black rubber hoses then yes it comes with the BL. The problem is that you need the extensions in the front. If your GV is like the XL-7 then these will not work for you. But I have a work around for it that I think I mention in the PDF. Also any brake shop should be able to fix them. Or you could drill a new hole an 1 or more down for the hard line to come through and kick the hard line down and reconnect and your in business. The extension should not be hard to ship, there isn't much to it. The fuses probably the same. I have been waiting on a set of fuses (Along with hubs) for 2 weeks now. Sometimes they just get backed up. Everyone is trying to get ready for the season I guess.
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OK, thanks. I read your comment in the file, sounds good though temporary ;).
Still waiting for a reply from RRO though... :-/
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Hi Guys,
I would be ordering a RRO Body Lift kit for my Suzuki Grand Vitara 2004.
Hope it works out!
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Hey for the body lift, just wondering why Master kit 1 was not brought up?They have the 2" kit.
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Because Masterkit1 is crazy expensive! It is the only that comes with bumper relocation brackets however.
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not to mention that the masterkit guys are ignorant to deal with. even if you can speak french.....