ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Toys-n-Joys on July 19, 2019, 01:34:47 PM
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So I picked up a 1995 Suzuki Sidekick JLX with some 235/75/15 hancooks, 1in spacer lift, brush guard, winch and a cb with 160,xxx automatic 4spd.
Plans are the following:
1. 2" body lift relocate bumpers and extended brush guard
2. Skid plates or bash plate at the very least
3. Maybe 2in coil lift or taller springs with new struts or spacers
4. Buy 16" steelies OEM or 16x7 4in backspacing and fit 235/85r16 mud tires to all 5
5. Short axle mod and front steel differential
6. Snorkel, water proofing and relocating breathers
7. Lockers maybe a rear spool and a arb front. Or 2 China air lockers.
8. Maybe a engine swap. Something that still can pull 25mpg. 1.9tdi, newer 2.0 Suzuki, Honda engines will be considered.
Going to swap out parts for reliability, maintenance and other mods along the way too. Maybe a dual battery and GM alternator.
Mostly looking to drive this as a 2nd vechile and have fun in the trails , camping or fishing.
If you guys have any ideas or information I would appreciate it. Thanks and happy zuking
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So I've been seeing a few jeep guys with these fold down tables off the rear hatch. Took a few measurements of my buddies and I figured it would work for the suzuki. Turns out it's a perfect fit. Just make sure you dont drill through some wires and import bits.
https://teraflex.com/shop_items/jk-multi-purpose-tailgate-table
Also check out the Quick Fist. Pairs perfectly with the teraflex tailgate table. Going to mount a hatchet and a hand saw I might keep the fire extinguisher not sure yet. What do you guys think I should carry?
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Sounds like your build is headed in the right direction! That teraflex table is a good find! I've seen Samurai guys use a sheet of aluminum bolted to the inside of the tailgate with a hinge on the bottom and a tailgate cable to hold it level, but there's no reason it couldn't be done on a newer Zuk too.
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Sounds like your build is headed in the right direction! That teraflex table is a good find! I've seen Samurai guys use a sheet of aluminum bolted to the inside of the tailgate with a hinge on the bottom and a tailgate cable to hold it level, but there's no reason it couldn't be done on a newer Zuk too.
Hey thanks need to learn a bit more and fix this beast up but I already fell in love with this zuki.
Had some no start issues and changed the starter out because she looked old and beat. But turns out I was having a neutral safety switch issue. Or something. I put the shifter in neutral and it fired right up. It starts in park now with the new starter but I'll have to research more and figure out the issue.
Also got a 2in body lift from low range offroad. To help clear up some room for 32s. Now I have to figure out if I want to just run a 2in coil and strut spacer with balljoint drop bracket or tracker front coils and accord rears with a drop bracket....
Also in a toss up between new 16x7 4in backspacing 0offset steelies for 50ea or 16x6.5 grand vitara wheels.
I want to clear 235 85 16 but keep them inside the fender.
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I can't help but wonder what a 7" 0 offset rim with 4" back spacing looks like - it must have one heck of a lip!
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I can't help but wonder what a 7" 0 offset rim with 4" back spacing looks like - it must have one heck of a lip!
What would you reccomend for 235/85r16? Basically a 32/9r16 tire.
I haven't picked these up yet but from what I've found online the vitara 16s are 16x6.5 with 0 offset and 4in backspacing.
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So I ordered a steel front differential tanks to this forum and great people on here. Cant wait for it to arrive.
What arb locker do I need for the front? Also has anyone made a write up installing one?
Just received a valve cover gasket and distributor o ring's This little 1.6 16v runs nice and smooth. Definitely lacks power but reliable and low gear helps get up anything.
Fixed the previous owners fix for the coolant temperature sensor. Liked his fix so much I actually put the double ended wire in the glove box for just in case.
Hopefully that's the last picture with just the 1in coil spacers. Want this 2in body lift in asap
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What arb locker do I need for the front? Also has anyone made a write up installing one?
An RD208 should be what you need - please note that word should. What's involved in the installation may vary depending on what vehicle the steel front diff came out of, and you're probably going to be the one doing the write-up.
ARB says you need the third member out of a first gen for the install, but, none of the first gens sold in the US had steel differentials, so, if you go that route, you'll be using the steel axle housing with an aluminium third member, definitely not the ideal approach, because the third member is what is most likely to break - what ARB does not tell you is that swapping the third member from a first gen into a second gen requires fiddling with the intermediate shaft & CV axles because the lengths are different due to the second gens being wider, and having the pneumatic free wheel clutch which offsets the differential towards the left.
Based on write-ups and pictures I've seen on the internet it should be possible to put the first gen carrier (which is what the ARB replaces) into the second gen third member, but I have not done it, and you'll still need to work out the axle length issues.
In addition to the steel axle, and the RD208 I believe you'll need an intermediate shaft from a first gen, and you'll have to make a hybrid right CV axle by replacing the second gen inner CV with one from a first gen - it may be possible to use a complete second gen CV axle by shortening the CV stub that goes into the differential and cutting a new circlip groove - don't forget to add the nylon support bush whilst you have the CV axle out.
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An RD208 should be what you need - please note that word should. What's involved in the installation may vary depending on what vehicle the steel front diff came out of, and you're probably going to be the one doing the write-up.
ARB says you need the third member out of a first gen for the install, but, none of the first gens sold in the US had steel differentials, so, if you go that route, you'll be using the steel axle housing with an aluminium third member, definitely not the ideal approach, because the third member is what is most likely to break - what ARB does not tell you is that swapping the third member from a first gen into a second gen requires fiddling with the intermediate shaft & CV axles because the lengths are different due to the second gens being wider, and having the pneumatic free wheel clutch which offsets the differential towards the left.
Based on write-ups and pictures I've seen on the internet it should be possible to put the first gen carrier (which is what the ARB replaces) into the second gen third member, but I have not done it, and you'll still need to work out the axle length issues.
In addition to the steel axle, and the RD208 I believe you'll need an intermediate shaft from a first gen, and you'll have to make a hybrid right CV axle by replacing the second gen inner CV with one from a first gen - it may be possible to use a complete second gen CV axle by shortening the CV stub that goes into the differential and cutting a new circlip groove - don't forget to add the nylon support bush whilst you have the CV axle out.
https://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/gv-front-diff-issue-and-air-locker-install/?PHPSESSID=206ljdccqmu31n0f7ljdutdmu1 (https://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/gv-front-diff-issue-and-air-locker-install/?PHPSESSID=206ljdccqmu31n0f7ljdutdmu1)
If the housings are interchangeable , the 5.12 from my sidekick fits the grand vitara/xl7 and the 3rd member is interchangeable why do I need so many parts to install a rd208 in a steel front differential?
I would've guessed suzuki used the same parts and I could just bolt it in. If anyone has more info on this post it here or send me a dm.
I appreciate you Fordem for the replies and setting me in the right direction. When you say 1st gen does that mean my sidekick? 1995?
Or 1st gen grand vitara? Sorry I dont know all the words meanings yet.
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Found this earlier and I dont have any clue how to edit my previous post.
Also does anyone know if my 1995 auto 4dr sidekick has 26 spline front or 22 spline?
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First gen is SE series - 89~98 - in the US, it was known as a Sidekick, in most other countries it was a Vitara.
Second gen is SQ series - 99~05 in the US, where it was known as the Vitara, or if it had the 2.5 liter V6, a Grand Vitara - in most other countries it was a Grand Vitara and sold from 98~05.
In the US, both first & second gens were sold as Geo/Chevy Trackers and in Canada there were a few other names, Asuna SunRunner, etc..
Whilst steel housings were used on both first & second gen vehicles, you're unlikely to find a steel first gen housing outside of Europe or the UK, as they were only used on the diesel powered commercial variants sold in that market, steel second gen housings are more common as they were used on the manual transmission V6 models worldwide.
The biggest differences between the front axle assemblies used on the first & second gens, is the pneumatic "shift-on-the-fly" freewheel clutch setup - this offsets the actual diff to the left, so that the left side (or intermediate) shaft is shorter, and the right side shaft is longer. There are a multitude of other minor differences, things like newer castings with more/less stiffening ribs, fill holes relocated higher (so the axle holds more oil), different CV axle lengths (first gen axles are shorter).
The real challenge facing you is that you are doing multiple "conversions" at the same time ...
- first gen to second gen - this is a "shift-on-the-fly" elimination being done in reverse (because it's going onto a first gen) - this is where the complication lies - fixing the shaft lengths.
- alloy to steel - this is a straight forward conversion if the one above has been completed.
- install the RD208 - this is straight forward if the ones above have been done.
I'll get back to you later on the 22/26 spline question, if no one else answers you before - I think a 95 should have 26 spline, but I need to check my notes to confirm - if it's a 22 spline then you'll need an RD205 not the RD208 as I had suggested previously.
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First gen is SE series - 89~98 - in the US, it was known as a Sidekick, in most other countries it was a Vitara.
Second gen is SQ series - 99~05 in the US, where it was known as the Vitara, or if it had the 2.5 liter V6, a Grand Vitara - in most other countries it was a Grand Vitara and sold from 98~05.
In the US, both first & second gens were sold as Geo/Chevy Trackers and in Canada there were a few other names, Asuna SunRunner, etc..
Whilst steel housings were used on both first & second gen vehicles, you're unlikely to find a steel first gen housing outside of Europe or the UK, as they were only used on the diesel powered commercial variants sold in that market, steel second gen housings are more common as they were used on the manual transmission V6 models worldwide.
The biggest differences between the front axle assemblies used on the first & second gens, is the pneumatic "shift-on-the-fly" freewheel clutch setup - this offsets the actual diff to the left, so that the left side (or intermediate) shaft is shorter, and the right side shaft is longer. There are a multitude of other minor differences, things like newer castings with more/less stiffening ribs, fill holes relocated higher (so the axle holds more oil), different CV axle lengths (first gen axles are shorter).
The real challenge facing you is that you are doing multiple "conversions" at the same time ...
- first gen to second gen - this is a "shift-on-the-fly" elimination being done in reverse (because it's going onto a first gen) - this is where the complication lies - fixing the shaft lengths.
- alloy to steel - this is a straight forward conversion if the one above has been completed.
- install the RD208 - this is straight forward if the ones above have been done.
I'll get back to you later on the 22/26 spline question, if no one else answers you before - I think a 95 should have 26 spline, but I need to check my notes to confirm - if it's a 22 spline then you'll need an RD205 not the RD208 as I had suggested previously.
I thought the steel front differential was a direct swap? I didnt read about needed hybrid axles or machining things. I thought it just bolted up , swap ring gear and you are good to go.
And for the arb I think a 26spline if that's what I have rd208 should just bolt in?
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Sorry - I think I got things backwards - you're putting the second gen housing in a first gen vehicle - the hybrid axle is required when you put the first gen diff carrier in to a second gen. housing for use in a second gen vehicle.
A second gen steel axle, with the steel third, should be a direct swap, provided you swap the entire guts of the original alloy axle into the steel housing - you'll need to "build" the old diff into the new housing, including correctly setting the pinion depth, preload & backlash.
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OK - looks like I was also backwards on the spline count - my notes say 22 spline up to 95, 26 spline from 96 onwards - so you'll need the RD205, and not the RD208 - again, my apologies.
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OK - looks like I was also backwards on the spline count - my notes say 22 spline up to 95, 26 spline from 96 onwards - so you'll need the RD205, and not the RD208 - again, my apologies.
Can I just use the whole steel differential and just swap over my 5.12 gear? So I can use the 26 spline?
Or do i need the internals swaped over into the steel housing and steel 3rd member?
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Can I just use the whole steel differential and just swap over my 5.12 gear? So I can use the 26 spline?
Are you getting the differential with or without the axles? If you get it with the axles, those will most likely be the 26 spline axles for the wider second gen and you will need to fiddle with them, because they are longer - this is where I got confused earlier.
Or do i need the internals swaped over into the steel housing and steel 3rd member?
The ARB replaces the diff carrier - you would need to transfer your 5.12 pinion, mount the ring gear on the ARB and install it, and then swap the axles over.
I don't think I mentioned this earlier - there are two different third member mounts used - if the steel diff you get doesn't match the alloy one you're taking out, you need the cross member mount to match the steel diff.
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Are you getting the differential with or without the axles? If you get it with the axles, those will most likely be the 26 spline axles for the wider second gen and you will need to fiddle with them, because they are longer - this is where I got confused earlier.
The ARB replaces the diff carrier - you would need to transfer your 5.12 pinion, mount the ring gear on the ARB and install it, and then swap the axles over.
I don't think I mentioned this earlier - there are two different third member mounts used - if the steel diff you get doesn't match the alloy one you're taking out, you need the cross member mount to match the steel diff.
Im pretty sure im getting everything i need to complete the swap. The axles inside the differential is what i was talking about 26 spline. Not the cv axles. Once it arrives ill post pictures. Ill need help identifying everything.
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This is written assuming your vehicle currently has 22 spline axle shafts.
Starting from the left side front hub you have the left CV axle which will remain in place - it is bolted to the intermediate axle shaft which goes into the diff/locker left side gear - if you want 26 spline here you'll need to source the intermediate shaft from a 96~98 Sidekick/Tracker - coming out of the right side gear of the diff/locker is the right CV axle - if you want 26 spline here, you'll need a CV axle from a 96~98 Sidekick/Tracker - or - if you have the CV axle from the second gen, it should be possible to swap the inner CV onto your existing CV axle (create a hybrid shaft) but you will probably need to shorten the splined stub on the inner CV and cut a new circlip groove.
When you're doing this pay close attention to the lengths of the axles & splined stubs - make sure what you're putting in matches what you took out - the only differences should be shaft diameter & spline count.
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Appreciate the information you guys give.
So heres a little update on my ride.
Ordered a calmini kit 3in (hope it actually arrives)
Picked up some 31x10.5r15 Couragia M/T tires
Found some cheap steelies online for $60
Got the oem roof rack from dr.z fabrication
New 1157 rear taillight socket
Found a deal on a snorkel
Skid plate from jimny bits
Ordered front brakes online even said it was a direct fit for my vehicle and they didnt work. Think they sent me 2dr brakes. If i had the 2dr rotors and pads i think i could've mad it work. Just re greased the stock slide pins and she stops way better now.
Leaning toward a j20a from a tracker or a vitara what's the forums opinion on that engine? Should be a 35hp 40tq jump from the g16 engine.
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Installed the 15x8 3.75in backspaced wheels with 31x10.5r15 Federal Couragia's. Had to pull the hammer and saw to massage them in. 2in body and 1in coil spacers in this picture.
Had to weld a body mount that rusted out when i installed the 2in lift. Somehow i have a gap for the body spacers that are supposed to glue in..... Over a inch gap. I might shim them or get larger blocks if they are needed? What do you guys think i asked low range offroad if they could have switched out the body mounts from a 1in kit. Waiting to hear what they say.
Waiting to install these fender flares i purchased off of Ebay a Russian seller that owns a sidekick, parsan-tuning was his handle.
I decided on turbocharging the g16b and doing a engine rebuild to add some much needed power.
Calmini is being sued i see it all over online.... of course i seen it after sending them money for a kit, 3 months has passed....so i asked my bank for a refund.
Still trying to decide between a cheaper jimnybits lift or a 4xfourart lift kit. Both are 3in
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I like the look of those fenders, let us know how they work out.
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So i scored a steel front differential with axle stubs for a great deal. I wish the mini spool would fit in the front for a cheap locked option. I might weld it
For the rear i purchased the mini spool but im not sure if i want to install it as i drive on the road to and from trails. I might buy a chinese arb so i can unlock on the roads and lock it offroad.
4xfourart kit showed up damaged. Thinking customs opened the box and repackaged it improperly. Kind of upset as i asked for the black powder coat. Seems like paint to me. Kit seems strong other than that.
Also considering boosting the Suzuki g16b instead of a engine swap. Can get cheap 80hp 80tq from it with bolt ons
Looking for a inclinometer and a arm rest for the inside
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I found a altimeter and compass inside usa and ordered a set of euro side markers from Thailand.
Going to do suspension and fender flares this weekend.
Now im considering a h27a swap. Found a xl7 locally for under 1000 with 70k on it. Rusted out but seems like a great drivetrain. Been picking some information on here about v6 swaps
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Something to look into with the engine swap...You might see if there is an aftermarket option for a computer, something like MegaSquirt. That would eliminate some of the headache others have had getting the factory ECU/BCM/guage cluster working. There is a MegaSquirt product called MicroSquirt that runs sub $400.
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Something to look into with the engine swap...You might see if there is an aftermarket option for a computer, something like MegaSquirt. That would eliminate some of the headache others have had getting the factory ECU/BCM/guage cluster working. There is a MegaSquirt product called MicroSquirt that runs sub $400.
Appreciate that. I plan on using the oem computer and wire harness off the xl7 at first. Id like the obd2 port to stay wired in. I have experience with megasquirt but never used the microsquirt. I heard the microsquirt is waterproof aswell.
Im wondering if the plastic intake can be reversed on the h25a or h27a. Seems like it can be. So i can use my g16b intake and snorkel location.