ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Ridjobradi on June 17, 2017, 09:26:04 AM
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So my last Sidekick was destroyed when a driver ran a red light, the day after Christmas. I was going to head another direction for a replacement 4x4, but I saw a good deal on a Sidekick Sport and picked it up instead. Now I have to get the new rig from the Seattle, WA area to Galveston, TX. I could have shipped it for less than the cost of fuel to drive it back, but that didn't sound like much fun. So I made the ridiculous decision to pull the parts from my wrecked rig and ship them to DuPont, WA, so I can install them on the new rig for the drive back.
The red Sidekick is the new one. I have added a pre-wreck picture of old rig also (white).
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ieh6CXv4r-lgLbPYG1aDP5BpmaMqRZwqFyjkHTdHD7PkXonlcEuXtr1lpzTWKH7TiLDoqgqfA_PYnC7IIemrms6jr737BkysvMkr2mpdwva46aeelXEcNOrATZBrZOtEhn1MMPcA6gQFlMHaRbMDIHA1LxTKa0G1d-j0q50TYiKu_svbC8nhyMYKF3wrstNZZ8tCuIkKQkXNpMUOWmWBuwvjKW5zp86xyY035fF3PGt-kVsVRc9NbgKP2fiXclJZZZoB6OkhAoW8aryfdLPDB-8RTQPlcPo9bk0IafHF9AaHobwtWn9h8KwLH6-ddjS3iZ5NGU4FEu9IPfRtDBcH-bai5yCTvvxCYeiMusqZVDj57aRILHRp6R_V8dVwRVqkCA4zX2faQRjTVO2-MJrlvSp0H2M6q_ETS56xNPzCacgS3I3x3UWhybLxxVMs_qxI2BCJRKMw_S2GUTH9OU8tAsClWeqn2K5sHkVVhbvBrZ2DbHBKnW1Xgj4pFi9WleBsG-OJBOkOq0Xo3jsLoylchPWHJ26VF4xgvlrNOn1F_RLeVJaAZJi_XaLKEI4LRHGou3JI5lTNQhD8WBrlSwlvwZGRJObZad0YRW5jIJ43RDow1Bb1rbpjBT1pmQ=w1654-h930-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yPRt0WjaRvEwme3F668BFklFxPGZgH6uai3UEZNcoJabdzCQS-ifOhRLa0UafyIESscBrpTLVtX6yUYtP9zW6L0B8BWcqK1-V1vka6xnVEebf5ANaUnIcdN6TlyvUm_8Da0IH9IxLbTIEz3QN0XoElTeVFM1wVIZpeEJcnFClUV0ekhuA_M1-h0g9EtBs28OzL4-kkCFSJ2MSWHs6RFFbLiA-cM39P-I6Bulk8Nwx6KGxiCGvam31fOkF4587Y2q3ZVciLsZVLM6IMKw7TugHZRCsovWwFGT2feIbe4CdIG_UjTyNG9rsseaP9PxbJ56-qr6jdp3b4M5vZcXeIgnAS8sgGhI1udwaRJp7BYk1Qd7pK8E3eRhwgDVfFU-ytUmS0GWv21YlAyuBVbDzi_uTI8lMK2FOiYFJLlkLF2cg6tmjmnMfo2-8Ure3fuSeqyKSkqKD7a19WC8qYUa0IDzg_rcsKJigb6hl3lf055HUCVUNFX3EXmJiSzUJYzqhl3cWz1mmgVBsI9tZnxabhn-adLALU9EWktqxkxsRor35a8ibvD6SrKXjROH4Es8c6CngDEdBkTh3Og3_1XlSUW-wCRCxHLoMy1hZxzGHZBcuLYJDJ8V-em9jXK1Vg=w1654-h930-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pwrc6iJGMSmXIxSITgNoCNGx7ZfJR8oAI7Sv3vzGpc8w7LVTdHTSBUEZESzCK_Z01wOKacWPK69-uhG9C8Mb99aLkR8_cGv5nbTWPMP2_erdMw6x5BFHtpouduaI03-LJV-lizdH9iW9qES0BEHewjw4YcgfKhv5s1kSNEZgpOkyxrgSDtZVA2pu-wnijyzZZ2zyeC3bHVRMSAx3s6YJ_1oAWvtMZCXJL0OUaIFV4qPoD-OfuUsHhNf7b7DeocTm33Kqk1mfR2-4MGpMawunFxbca23RwHMTLP8dZ90ztYRmxOnDHX3zjmqIxqig_E9D4td6FpcQyv2f7qumAGqFNT0vDKw6FTpQMmZPn-vxOxWrW6x8i0TrhLb5v44jS7KmXWc2chsmkoco1-q1M5i-cbI66OzXT3Zoo-IXQkASyOqXT24KZ0VJ1EkcsevIuNWUjftrBEn_hUhHjSME26D0-m0Ws92I1gVJrT3UgILDm_C_DVBfGAdXzHoBrWBezfsmXJv0rQuuG0LvcxZ31P_ybKHgqvCv94JzOvdYcisuDEuV8PxmKaE8DQL6VbVSpDxv5SvqkHgetvuG21MbX9GZXTzbhLZVU1qfOVkDFpOnGD-MZjzE_NLE-35NlLyWA05AczzuMK2gpzs8t5gPqQP0flmdO50NHYr0RI0Z3oV4UaFlwRg=w698-h930-no)
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I only had a few days at home, but I was able to pull and pack all of the lift components and the wheels / tires in a day. I also packed some recovery gear, portable air compressor, tools, and some other gear.
I ran out of time to pack and ship, so I checked a 69 pound bag for my trip to Phoenix. I have a week of work in Phoenix, then I will fly to Seattle to install all the gear. I wanted to make the drive back be more than an extremely long highway drive.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qzD53E7FqCfKWpjAYAlq6Pek26wvjgSo1HcEofcNzcHlklw8DnD1EqviOfG0xdZiTIMPWtxfVzsOYTMMIqf4bNVbJSmaXgMF1wTv2GKmjju7iSCCuvNSGr0ZeRcLX-QxQA6g1kLecI74WWF-9j3Mm1AER74qE02Ldvq3EZO28EeEH5gduJgEACno_NXBnu0Ad67of9nhME2HHT7pqgD6yjnocAmz3cWveeQTvCpIHblqOqMDX7w58_q2Mwd4X-NGZZaheXhHiiYO8bIrCxXdJHGOPuVbtL1emgiJHiAgtW_pEqnSgzIIVl343r-wqfqyog2jq_SyAej9nciAumMH_l2AYqeG6OP8TInIwM1dAs7dtyivHv3dO0dFzq9m0KETquj-d5Qd_uTOeH57OKQa7PqtoVIk4ZvMdwiVoailoJ5v8z8Saz_4kiJ4MKXMpah98ZYSytWpZomqFnPZOk-lA0SupAHSYj30s9Gs4fudVy9ZsUxKJhZmf6fxgVtGifoDVdVRh-fZLeniJhAzsOP7xJoGuv_FrY_krzsRNAfvy8ingEEzpdN3Kpgp1S4ue4tX0iQa7ntqOQxwa_uDU8RFUxEAeDKJTryfSiFvLLd6fFIoA1hi0UyGh84VNU7Gy3_GwVgKDbiI6dQdp51HF8F2bGQMxSO9iGoqp86GJjqB7mS7OCs=w1654-h930-no)
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This is the makings of a great story!
Good luck with your trip..
-Eric
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Sou d's like a good adventure.
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Keep posting updates on your trip back
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Thanks for interest everyone. I was going to fly from Phoenix to Seattle today, but I have to fly home to deal with family and house issues.
Some of my gear hasn't made it there anyway.
My younger sister is back in the hospital after an emergency surgery and my house has water damage from the recent storm.
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The wheels and tires should be there Monday. Some of the other parts may arrive tomorrow and Tuesday. Since I need to make another trip to TX, I may grab the roof rack and a few other parts.
There are several mods I will do when the rig gets back to TX. The Sony head unit will not help me much on this drive, because I don't think the built in TomTom GPS will have all the dirt roads and I can't load way points.
I have downloaded BackCountry Navigator to my Android tablet. I will try to experiment with it to make sure I don't have any issues on the way back.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mlWZGbsOXDQCx6u206jGRNuxVchSJKEdSEA72Krhemo1NM_K1BmTTtyLaWQlgSNHv3wdqXhiZcv3cJdKaEfVAS0-UacTxYTsTYaSqtMJxuiTopXSbdv5a-8uEVfL9KNklkfNNbkA0FoMZc-6ne7O_p_ke1Vfpwez-2FPAt-aT34MWXYWKLfSnlO3o3sppN-wb6oUyIHdFekfF9fFZnM74OGALjB6v9KEyjKZP5qB0R8USCMSEpS8LcMyRlE0lV2vUYpK0Z3ekQwAZOmPyah5yYTwBLY2gE22uWYGF6VqCdltO6CNKqdlOBdqdJZmBQYw6wQnbqUBkW6vE0i20NqTRz_ge0mAgU72ZzOV_6OhbwrvLfczeSE_G9kgkF517r5tlFMrj70Z_KGhbHGvF3Gn83F_-duZkDJqM_crMLWkKXYCHUc9rIojXaINZjaTy98FfwRvzX4niaPX9pJpwbB7I73IAYNPocTXYPZE73S3l-PVRHyqwKOUFF7dTG-qovvLz61Hv8PUcaCOCYh8VDNWwZ7v6hIne_iTVoD8hKme3XLRilVcrtYSWOZukBwIFHL1pIydI4fx6HTYHM9VNbUTA3L1bfvc6R1XF5UImNgqmFdyLlx2hIIlqWR22Q=w1654-h930-no)
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Hope all goes well on the Family and Home fronts
Looking forward to your trek and pics
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Most of the parts have arrived in WA. I head back to Seattle tomorrow.
I haven't shipped the roof rack. It won't make it there in time now and it ships as oversized. I may pack the Thule roof rack to use for the trip home and then switch to the factory rack later.
I will be making the drive back alone, so there should be enough room for the camping gear, without the rack.
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I made it to Seattle and then to a friend's place south of there. My tools arrived late, so it went a little slower than planned.
The parts are installed, but I have some rubbing behind the front driver's side tire and I still need to seat the c clip on the driver's side axle at the wheel hub. The axle isn't cooperating much. I set the vehicle down on its own weight and took it around the block. The axle still has is not far enough to seat the the c clip.
I will take it for an alignment in the morning. I hope that helps the rubbing during turns.
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Here is a pic from "Last One Over Adventure - 2017" My rig is the red one. The spare is in inside the rig, since it won't fit until I install the modified tire holder from my old rig.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X1i916EcsGqnqcyWek7cFV00lFKEGi66uhtd9f_S-MmAgFM8_kCX8g9NYuKsx6csxL2_SftArOytrc6kZ8Z0kD9so0n-msQ8X3-FJn3eQXjhG-ZeIQ2zMfuYH57WJBmsa4687vwZj6N3GDZVB8X3L76YLxuJXnSnOlr3s_ax_jaU_alKjS0ipUpQNmrl9WGfFjMSXrzDVcVZhERRxphYlrxcnb48AtH6wkoy_h0PLNPTN6Y6FgHllMVXrFOPTnz8Lb3viXX9J1DFEFT-a_nFRq_1vyjWIA_Iz2CUnAfuXc23itvYTkYoqhu-3bCmPnZJYtf_0Ncw4fIIz4mxJG7Qrj-OwuGRvz9H-49zynha56a2QXVZy6ZRyLxaWnmV9MtDiIfKgcusD54zuUzlBDJ4_NVtwQBblsHAvxsb-qaidWGrotN3al1rlFDVrMt--nTKk6BSjjJE69w6velOs54zgVTiO4P6yZH5jVRO0tj-aQ0d3ULj7HU6x6btRYxsDgzcKp2FFgFWhN1-z_HvaB1VQymuOyRcr71VdD6KpqhCoPzLwSCJPLJnXyoCPLMw0BIJFKt2Pskozsb0lHbl06NRVGx2qVGOlmSU2puxV5LU5aZhvDed_TE0kKyi4w=w1654-h930-no)
My first drive after the lift was a drive through Seattle to have dinner with some old friends. The car handles well on the road and gets similar gas mileage as my old Sport, 20 mpg on the highway. I had a vibration that I thought was either alignment or a a wheel balance issue. I took it in for both of these on the 29th.
The vibration persisted and I thought it may be a driveline hop. My previous rig would bounce up and down at 35 mph. The driveshafts on my old rig were balanced, but it would get in a harmonic and start to bounce higher and higher if I kept doing 35 mph. This rig was vibrating at 45-55 mph and never had that smooth hop feeling. The guys on the trail pointed out that i had a small bend in my rear passenger side wheel (aluminum). So much for the tire shop that stated they balanced and rotated my tires. I was able to swap the bent wheel for factory steel rim. I kept one of the steel wheels from this rig to use as a spare. The . The wreck destroyed the front driver side wheel and it must have bent the lip on the driver rear as well.
I also had a problem two issues with incorrectly torqued nuts on the trip. A few thousand miles of most off road driving and I lost the upper nut on the driver side rear shock. Later I lost the nut on the passenger side front strut. This was while playing in the snow and it caused a ball joint failure Sewerzuk jumped in and helped me get it back together and on the trail. The Sport uses a different lower control arm and ball joint assembly. The ball joint is only available with the lower control arm. I will replace it, when I get back to the rig.
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Picked the rig up in Salt Lake City this morning. I made a quick stop at Low Range, before driving south. Today was almost all pavement, until I got to Moab. The rain had just started and it was getting late. No playing on the rocks today.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hYI8frJi2NysXUOjT-b4wo0fKTqaX-ZdJ0rMgDWaLKF5TF8nwfJQH0fIrUTjzjOCKBzUFEo_C1ujI8qyosIe7f2w9uXtX9ZLBScrvBp4DkhQfMYzSW01fNbrB1fcrs8DMRzSgBfrf7B339h8Rp5QfXIo24GsbLL3aFBlOdh-HaI4sDmrbXfoQ2fAWO_S-333ggYCHllRyjd2f-PB4h9S8a77fO_wAgknGxQJrRIH2WzODmm7UUC-Xl3Pz_FwBftJNfvDd0u1MJwROUb9WSKcT26bilPGtTcoTEpqzWQr3nTx95LerXiKrkA0CEDpvwBv-tG-CzSNpNPbHtGteS59eq8PBX8n8XTKZo_bb3yYNDJh_l-KJPSwmSjEoWXVq1HPtJGa2R0FwLWX7NgROZpIslKytDS55uUy2mOMXxSTI-MmoipgGw_yuPY4zYZoaVjqXJHVHUN_FjXl5dRNX2i97-eUCd0LS1wN-wIOj7hZxlhW-QEHaQxoZpLys6QuxhLB8MtHa0L9HOLQFOevgkVyzOaOYIEUViNPE6K4_AMtU8RKm8JLa-vt1fr5mDTaCL_obz91LIej7_MNZrGIbcUed05RODAjMkRMfpMxmDJl1hdIvHwaxCSi015UQ=w1654-h930-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uMCHNVPgTezw0M3Ct404TpTqnNf6jE34kl9XHdcgsm3XTEgn4hhSoi0aHkMbe5JhtCHQnAlZDoMFiNixMhxF33iVaV01qvm988MInp4XbX0fvG3lkQbx5MqwqfbN19AS4WDL5MpU-QrZT82audsrMq5EeR7VRAkzDVO6Czd7wcSj-ZgK9-BN-Tbli0NrDfiUDy67klDdUysXXfn6WA0cfAaBnPsyz9z3rpQ_7KCRUxbSyLLmyxn_Sp_Gb1hEhb1ggHGy9xv3rE5JhbBLeHIcQ1EQn_7XTuDH6jJDg3er_Y415V-9t7SlIfs2Re1FAmDhwYzJWEFh7dHMh4QRkR5Ss7fZsU7pHsoXt_A6rrKbCihylaYv4Y1d33WOifTKSfi7_1nuXXzQzoCSp4V5lW7cLPvWw3UgDJTIR1MZCbkfqtWSq3J6UiLmta7JPEZSuCjA2LPiM54szpv11P4JoCqccSGo7Amaq9przP5gQfeDj6y-ml-bKj3pnU-BWyvld3r_v8Nws7Om7mQVpcIIPrO-3OxObEpNkl6AJaZ4EtETOn3BQ0wnXCcYJ1Uxgy7CZH2bpEY5WCa23mq_HfbRiSGvrGoqR3Gkb9ISC-cN0qmNI7cpt5rpmnYGIahqQ1FjtujdxYCl3OnM9HcmXP2JShad3J5kHlR2U9H-J4oj4VhbKLYmcFY=w1654-h930-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xRf24nn6cERTm1iHf1IOxKNMaTQnvCygH8ClOMrR5zCLQIQN9I5DrUblyE4SRmyQrRSdx8YO1WHQhuT3TFt2peFC2sPJ0IEvhkzX8NHIV98fn_ZZZiBQpNGwJtpiWvM2nvnXN5zBq8AfWBcMtBjVqm970dd2O1d7xEP8sEEGjqgTd93RxKZGPlvq05NyLodfsBvPzQ1pB8MdzOq0u4c2SR9SoqCrXOGdnAoB6NE7HWgCHHsM207LFsDj1slay9ZMGrVHoYjK672wsnZqGBTsd3G5gTJ_uxo9TCdZzdWftfLuIdJ-MQR-Rk3_v_3Hi5A4y9z3PiggSVQES6ERlB7uxHMjQk4Nu1vIFNRMNZbA5pYI7WRA2VlpB_faeo_VZq7HXSAzQFv0ZiiLxcMIQ7_O7eqH-RHs2wyh7wowzRkmeK0Wf56JP-7ollbvIaz2nYLr9ogQiFKdKgfI0KkXZ_8F5VDUSIRLBU_osXNDRxJiDGy3z-FbJ_0WXBIJygoUVt4-tPyEu3UmsBiGZddPJkVnvQZwn5PQkCYaMbKJOcs1BDBLjDnKEDAazfWU_4fZW-t82dyoisl4kl0E0rLvAJFu7JLeV01M4ySXP8ZsDkQ96pZsljtdbfEKLOUn1t_EF87BszmbgUFQRA1WAcPhKrHMkdIg6Z2AwLOeByDr0ZwmGdsuXAk=w1654-h930-no)
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Glad to see you're on the road again!
Where are you now?
-Eric
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Hey, this is a big trip!! Stop and take a few photo's, then post them. How was Moab?
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Eric and Mr. Anderson,
Thank you both. It has been an interesting trip for sure. I made it into Colorado on the trail, but diverted up to Denver to fly out again. My Sidekick is currently in the Denver Airport parking lot. It has actually spent more time in airport parking lots than it has been on he road, since the lift. It will probably stay in Denver for at least a week.
I had to replace a brake line when I got into Moab. I had the longer, braided stainless brake lines from Low Range in the truck. I swapped out the front passenger line and was able to get help from UTV rider to pump the brakes and I was back on my way.
I will make a separate post as a trip report, with many more pictures.
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I started to trip log at the following link. It will take me a few days to catch up to my current location. The rig is currently sitting at the Denver airport. I am hoping to fly to Denver with my 10 year old and start driving to OKC. My oldest is at Tinker AFB, where I will leave it again. I want to ship the roof rack, modified spare tire carrier, and a few other things, so that I can install them in OKC. That's where I will make the decision to keep driving towards the east coast or to head south and go home.
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/adventure-forum/trans-america-trail-in-a-sidekick/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/adventure-forum/trans-america-trail-in-a-sidekick/)
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Some pics cannot see!
Can you share to me the details of your lifts, new tires, and that modified spare tire carrier, please?
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This is a "re-build" - the first vehicle was destroyed in an accident and the goodies were transferred to the replacement - the details of the original build are here (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/sidekick-sport-build-log/).
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Thanks for posting the link Foredom. I should have tagged on to that one, but I thought it was one of the posts that had been lost.
Rasmeidirtridder - I am not sure why the pics were not showing in this post. They were attachments. I am changing them to links to my TAT folder in Google Photos.
I modified the spare holder by pressing out the wheel studs and drilling new holes, one inch higher than before. The higher holes prevented the spare from rubbing on the bumper, but it would still rub on the cargo door. I pressed in longer studs and put some cheap plastic wheel spacers behind the spare. This kept it from rubbing on my rear door. I may get some stick on rubber to protect the door instead of using the spacers. This will keep the tire pressed firmly against the cargo door, instead of being able to move a little on bumpy surfaces.
The tires are 255/70/R16. They measured 30.6" inches when new.
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This is what the new Sport looked like when I first bought it. The suspension was bone stock. The only modifications were the radio, wind deflectors and sheep skin seat covers. There was a laundry list of maintenance that had been performed, before I bought it. I have all the receipts from the shops that did the work. It even had new paint.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pwrc6iJGMSmXIxSITgNoCNGx7ZfJR8oAI7Sv3vzGpc8w7LVTdHTSBUEZESzCK_Z01wOKacWPK69-uhG9C8Mb99aLkR8_cGv5nbTWPMP2_erdMw6x5BFHtpouduaI03-LJV-lizdH9iW9qES0BEHewjw4YcgfKhv5s1kSNEZgpOkyxrgSDtZVA2pu-wnijyzZZ2zyeC3bHVRMSAx3s6YJ_1oAWvtMZCXJL0OUaIFV4qPoD-OfuUsHhNf7b7DeocTm33Kqk1mfR2-4MGpMawunFxbca23RwHMTLP8dZ90ztYRmxOnDHX3zjmqIxqig_E9D4td6FpcQyv2f7qumAGqFNT0vDKw6FTpQMmZPn-vxOxWrW6x8i0TrhLb5v44jS7KmXWc2chsmkoco1-q1M5i-cbI66OzXT3Zoo-IXQkASyOqXT24KZ0VJ1EkcsevIuNWUjftrBEn_hUhHjSME26D0-m0Ws92I1gVJrT3UgILDm_C_DVBfGAdXzHoBrWBezfsmXJv0rQuuG0LvcxZ31P_ybKHgqvCv94JzOvdYcisuDEuV8PxmKaE8DQL6VbVSpDxv5SvqkHgetvuG21MbX9GZXTzbhLZVU1qfOVkDFpOnGD-MZjzE_NLE-35NlLyWA05AczzuMK2gpzs8t5gPqQP0flmdO50NHYr0RI0Z3oV4UaFlwRg=w698-h930-no)
I literally bought it from a little old lady. She was the third owner who bought it out of Arizona.
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This is the stack of boxes, full of parts, going to Seattle. I shipped 4 wheels, with tires and 1.25" spacers, springs, spacers, shocks, struts, manual locking hubs, braided stainless brake lines, tools, recovery gear, etc. I also had some gear in a checked bag, so that I didn't have to pay for the shipping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qzD53E7FqCfKWpjAYAlq6Pek26wvjgSo1HcEofcNzcHlklw8DnD1EqviOfG0xdZiTIMPWtxfVzsOYTMMIqf4bNVbJSmaXgMF1wTv2GKmjju7iSCCuvNSGr0ZeRcLX-QxQA6g1kLecI74WWF-9j3Mm1AER74qE02Ldvq3EZO28EeEH5gduJgEACno_NXBnu0Ad67of9nhME2HHT7pqgD6yjnocAmz3cWveeQTvCpIHblqOqMDX7w58_q2Mwd4X-NGZZaheXhHiiYO8bIrCxXdJHGOPuVbtL1emgiJHiAgtW_pEqnSgzIIVl343r-wqfqyog2jq_SyAej9nciAumMH_l2AYqeG6OP8TInIwM1dAs7dtyivHv3dO0dFzq9m0KETquj-d5Qd_uTOeH57OKQa7PqtoVIk4ZvMdwiVoailoJ5v8z8Saz_4kiJ4MKXMpah98ZYSytWpZomqFnPZOk-lA0SupAHSYj30s9Gs4fudVy9ZsUxKJhZmf6fxgVtGifoDVdVRh-fZLeniJhAzsOP7xJoGuv_FrY_krzsRNAfvy8ingEEzpdN3Kpgp1S4ue4tX0iQa7ntqOQxwa_uDU8RFUxEAeDKJTryfSiFvLLd6fFIoA1hi0UyGh84VNU7Gy3_GwVgKDbiI6dQdp51HF8F2bGQMxSO9iGoqp86GJjqB7mS7OCs=w1654-h930-no)
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Thanks for this. Your pics does not show up again!!
I know the tire seizes you are using are 255/70/R16 for your same red color Sidekick Sport like mine. My current tires are 215/70/R16.
Can I use your tire seizes without any lift with the stock KYB suspensions which are available here?
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Thanks for this. Your pics does not show up again!!
I know the tire seizes you are using are 255/70/R16 for your same red color Sidekick Sport like mine. My current tires are 215/70/R16.
Can I use your tire seizes without any lift with the stock KYB suspensions which are available here?
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The 255 tires will not fit without a lift.
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Thanks. The stock 215/65R16 = 27"
Somebody has told me that the 215/70R16 = 27.9" and 225/70R16 = 28.4"
And that the bigger tires I want, but with no lift, is a 29" tire is about the limit!!!
Are the above correct?
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Rasmeidirtrider - I think 29" is what I was running with a 2" coil lift.
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The Sport had to sit for several weeks after it developed a bad rear main seal leak somewhere around the Colorado / Oklahoma border. I was able to nurse it to my son's house in OKC. I visited for a couple of days before flying home. The rig sat for a few weeks while I had parts delivered and drove back up with more parts and gear. I had to leave it again, when Harvey entered the gulf.
We weathered the storm safely, with no water in the house and only minor wind damage. I consider myself extremely fortunate. I made it back to OKC yesterday and finished the minor things that remained from my previous trip before the storm.
The rig now has a new rear main seal, new trans input seal, twin sticks, 4.24 gears, new breather lines, diifferent radio, tablet mount, receiver hitch, trailer light wiring, factory roof rack, Thule basket, Weather Tech window deflectors, and a few repairs.
The seal replacements went well, it was all the other work that took longer than I thought it would.
Most of this gear came from my old rig.
There are other parts that I want to install, but life, time, and mother nature have limited my time.
I will write up a few different posts about the upgrades and post some pics later.
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How are things with your Sport? Did it finally make it to Texas?
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It's still sitting in OKC. I have been traveling for work and haven't brought it down to TX yet. The hope has been to keep driving it on the TAT across the states. I have made it through the fun parts and may just bring it back to TX.
I will actually be in Texas for the next 2 weeks and may grab it for some weekend near Austin.
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Quite the tavelin' man..
:)
-Eric
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Finally getting some time to make an update. I also made it up to OKC to do a little more work on it.
I installed the new shocks that I had custom made by Doetsch. The shocks were previously making contact with my brake line at full droop. The new shocks have an offset lower eye. They also have a built in bump stop. They are stiffer than I prefer, but have been good off pavement.
During the previous trip, I found that the rear transmission mount was in two pieces. I ordered a new one, but it was the incorrect part for a Sport. I found the correct one and had it shipped out for this trip. I have attached a photo for reference.
I also replaced the rear (5th) door shock, so it doesn't close on me now. I pulled it off my wrecked Sport, along with many other parts.
The most important item, was checking the transfer case. I was really concerned about the amount noise the twin stick makes. I would have driven it home sooner, but the increase in noise from the twin stick mod had me nervous. I talked to a couple of helpful Zukiworld members and they said it was normal. I need to do Matt's sound deadening mod to help tone the noise down.
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Interesting shock... DT did that for you? I'm a little surprised as that would but sideload on the shaft. It is a quick problem solve though..
-Eric
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The shock is from their Baja Ryder line. The offset lower eye is an option.
I wanted something more than a parts house shock, for the portion of the TAT that is going through Oklahoma and farther east. The western half of the TAT was slow moving. Parts of the eastern half are mostly flat.
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I have been away for work, so the Sidekick has seen slow progress.
I spent some time adding sound damping material around the transmission tunnel and layers of material under the shifter. I pulled the t-case shift boot from my wreck to add over the twin stick boot. It looks cleaner and I need as much material as I can to reduce the noise of the twin stick mod while in 4wd.
I have spent a lot of time removing items from the wreck. I pulled both rear door lock actuators, so that I can replace the after market units that are in my new rig. I also pulled most if the cruise control components, rear window wiper assembly and harness, and various harness components. Any parts from my old rig that look better than the replacement rig are being swapped out. The outer door felts are a good example. The outer felts were chipped and had what looked like a brushed on paint job. The felts from my wreck were in decent shape. The wiring harness section that has the AC compressor and fan relays was also messed up with a hack job to replace the fan relay with a generic 12V relay. In order to replace that section of harness, I had to pull the previous section also. It had all the same wires, but a slightly different connector. I am hoping that the cruise control components don't need the entire under dash harness. I still need to pull the old steering wheel to get the indicator stalks with the cruise activation.
I am still fighting a P1875 trouble code also. The next step is to unplug the low gear indicator switch and see if that prevents the error code. I thought the error was due to my speedo not working properly at lower speeds, but the code didn't go away when I replaced the speedo cable and then the speedo head.
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If it wasn't for slow progress, some of us would make no progress at all! I know the feeling. My problem is I have to drive mine everyday, so no major work that keeps it down for more than a few hours. It is looking like you should have it finished by the time you get it home!
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I was able to spend some time at home last month. I completed the front end rebuild; lower arms, shafts, new spacers,alignment. I also moved the snorkel to the new rig.
The picture shows the rig with the new stance. The spacers didn't make it, when I shipped the parts to Seattle. I have been driving with only the new OME springs up front. I turned some new delrin 3/4" spacers on the lathe.
The snorkel install was not too difficult, but the bolt holes needed sleep Dremel work to get the angle / position right. The original intake plumbing in the fender was removed. The new plumbing is 3 inch aluminum intercooler pipe and two silicone elbows. One elbow is a reducing elbow, from 3.25" to 3". The snorkel model is SSVTA. You have to trim the inner plastic fender panel also. I used some of the material that is used for water proofing a new window or door install in your house. It keeps mud and water from being flung into the inner fender well.
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I was trying to remember without reading back through everything...did it come with that roof rack, or did you add that? I am getting the roof rack bug lately...The rig is looking pretty sweet!
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I saw the roof rack in an eBay picture for a transmission. I contacted them, gave them the eBay info and they shipped it to me.
I have a Thule Aero setup for a Sidekick that I am willing to sale. PM, if interested.
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Great to see progress! ...and that roof rack. Dang! I'm still looking for one of those. No luck though. :(
-Eric
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Holy typos, I just read my last post. I know better than to post from my phone.
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Finishing some part swaps from the wrecked rig to the new rig. Installed the rear window wiper, which the JX doesn't have. I swapped a few pieces of wiring harness that were in better shape on my old rig too. I still need to install the rear door locks from my old rig. The rear driverside door lock isn't working and the rear passenger side is an aftermarket part, that isn't installed properly.
I also sandblasted my Australian header and painted it. I need to find the right size donut gasket and then I can install the header.
Unfortunately, I found that the rear wiper and cruise buttons need a different wiring harness under the dash. I pulled it from the old rig, but it will be an absolute bear to install. I am not even sure if the ECU will support the cruise control.
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I had to order the gasket for the header to cat inlet. I couldn't find the right size locally. I am hoping to get the header installed by Monday.
My driver side headlight caught a rock that shattered most of the headlight. I am glad that it didn't hit my windshield. I ordered a new headlight and a pair of Tracker front turn signals. I like the white turn signals up front, much better than the amber lenses.
I had previously swapped the power steering pump from the old rig, because mine started making a little noise. The bearing had gone bad on the old one from sitting outside. I ordered two new bearings and two rebuild kits. I rebuilt the one I pulled off the new rig and swapped them. The rebuilt pump nice and quiet.
I also pulled the previously installed trailer wiring out through a grommet and ran it towards the hitch.
The most difficult task I tried is only partially complete. I installed a Viper alarm, so I could have keyless entry. I tried to setup the remote start, but didn't get something right. The lock/unlock works, but no remote start yet.
The little remaining time was used for small tweaks. I adjusted the windshield washer sprayers for better coverage, changed the engine oil, applied dielectric grease to all connectors under the hood, and cleaned up some wire routing.
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Replaced the driver side headlight and both front turn signal lenses. The clear turn signal lenses made a much larger difference on the white rig, but I still like them more than the amber lenses on the red rig.
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I like the clear marker lenses! I chipped one of my amber lenses, definitely think clear would be a good replacement option!
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Today's work started with repairing a blown high pressure power steering hose. I replaced it with a hose from the parts rig, but it has twice the miles on it. I am hoping to repair the blown hose with AN fittings and braided high pressure hose.
Next, I started the work I had actually planned on. I pulled the exhaust manifold and replaced it with the header from Australia. It was on my previous rig, but was all rusty from sitting in the salty air. I sand blasted it and painted it with header paint.
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I took my youngest for a ride on the south end of the island. There's some fun terrain, dunes, mud, sand, and lots of stuck full size vehicles to pull out. I also park for a while and let home play in the soft sand for until it starts to get dark.
On the way back I noticed that my front blinkers and my rear driver side blinker are not working correctly. It is most likely a ground or a connector full of salt. All the connectors up front are full.of dielectric grease. I didn't do the connectors in the back. My daytime running lights aren't working either, but I am not sure if they ever were on the new rig.
I also replaced my belt tensioner. It was hopping a little more than I thought it should. I could also feel a vibration sometimes. That is gone now.
The header makes no significant power difference. I originally bought it to replace the severely cracked exhaust manifold on my old rig. The cracks made it loud and gave me an EGR error code sometimes.
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The header makes no power difference. I originally bought it to replace the severely cracked exhaust manifold on my old rig. The cracks made it loud and gave me an EGR error code sometimes.
Yesterday I was looking at the pictures of the original manifold alongside the header and thinking that the manifold was a fairly decent design - between the 1.8 Sport & the 2.0 Vitaras, Suzuki has I think three different manifolds that will fit, and the one you had would appear to be the "mid performance" one ( visually, I haven't tested them) the header has longer tubes so any performance enhancement will be towards the high end of rpm range.
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Fordem - It does seem to bring power on a little sooner than before. It may even have a little more power all the way up. It's hard to say without having real numbers to work with. I want to say it feels faster, but you know how accurate seat if the pants feel is....
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In addition to tracking down an electrical gremlin, I started working on a new temp switch for my electric cooling fan. I was originally going to mount it in the small lower tube (J18), but I was concerned about the trigger wire running behind the header. Unfortunately, I had already painted the upper tube, when I decided to use it instead.
I took a piece of brass stock, center drilled and tapped the end to match the temp switch, then rounded the edges with a random form tool.
I then set a boring head up to radius the end of the brass fitting to fit on the overhead coolant tube. I didn't get a good pic of the boring operation.
I cleaned the paint back then soldered the new part to the coolant tube. The pic is before repainting. I won't have time to install it until late next week.
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That is similar to what I did for the temp gauge in "Trouble" race car with the 2.3 motor. I just installed a temp switch 200 -185 by tapping the aluminum outlet housing on my 2.7L. This switch will ground a relay for my fan. I am installing another temp switch 185-160 in my transmission cooling outlet line that will also ground the same fan relay. I think these temperature switches are more reliable than the probe stuck through radiator fins going to a control box.
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I believe this one is on at 180F and off at 165F. Like you said, it will ground a relay to turn the fan on. I went overboard on the fan. It's a 16" Spal HP fan with their HP controller. I had fried a few standard automotive relays on the last rig, so I went with the big relay setup powered directly from the battery. The big Spal fan is too noisy.
I guess I should look at doing the same for my trans line. Are you running a separate trans cooler?
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Yes I have a separate cooler, that I have positioned directly in front of the 16" fan.
First I ran the Trans cooling lines through the radiator, but found that I didn't have enough cooling capacity. Then I put a Trans cooler on before the radiator, using the radiator to keep Trans oil warm. That mostly worked, but the trans cooler on radiator is directly above the radiator oltlet line to my motor, so I am thinking under load it warms up the motor cooling water. So I am not going to run it through the radiator but put a temp switch in the line so it will turn on the cooling fan. If motor water is cool, the thermostat will keep it warm, so with the fan running if Trans temp is high, it won't matter. I may put a temp probe on the outlet line also later. The temp switch I got for trans cooling line uses AN8 fittings, and sthey are a litle bigger than necessary. AN6 would probably be adequate.
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I spent a little time chasing down my turn signal issue and decided to finish an upgrade that had been waiting for a long time. I have had the battery tray from Low Range for a few years. The AGM battery that i had in my old rig had flanges at the bottom that didn't allow it to fit properly in the new holder. That battery was destroyed in wreck and the new rig came with a brand new battery that was too tall for the holder.
Several parts were added or reworked; battery holder, aux fuse panel, ground disconnect, battery maintainer.
The factory battery tray is bolted in, so i used the same locations, but with countersunk bolts. I used the hole dimensions from the factory tray to locate new holes in the Low Range battery holder and countersunk the holes. Countersinking the holes was necessary to keep the bottom of the holder flat. The factory tray has recessed areas to keep the hex bolts away from the battery.
My new rig doesn't have ABS, so there was an unused fuse location in the main fuse panel under the hood. I had planned for this project and had cut the ABS power wire from the old rig's harness. The wire came with the right connector and was sized for the 50 amp fuse I had also pulled. All new connectors received crimp terminals, anti-ox, and heat shrink. I added a battery ground disconnect also. A wire was run from the ground disconnect to the aux panel ground bus. My battery maintainer is wired directly to the battery terminals, before the ground disconnect. I have to leave the rig for several weeks at a time and try to keep the maintainer plugged in when I do.
The new battery has the terminals towards the front, which caused an interference issue. I had to move the positive cable to side with a post adapter. The factory cable had a fitting that allowed it fit over the side post, without modification. I just had to remove the factory terminal.
It's hard to see the fuse panel on the far right of the battery tray in this picture. I will get a better photo of the fuse panel later. The black box in front of the battery holder is the maintainer (label long since came off). The 12ga. black wire connected to the battery side of the ground disconnect goes to the maintainer. The positive side of the maintainer is connected to the positive bus of the fuse box. This may be an issue if I have a parasitic drain. The clear and blue piece sticking up behind the battery is the fuse for my cooling fan controller.
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It is frustrating because we used to be able to leave a hunting rig setting all year and then go and crank it over (maybe a shot of starting fluid) and start it up. Now our rigs won't set for a month without the battery going dead. The computers in our vehicles, and the newer the more computers, all take just a little juice for memory and a little for the indicator, ect. until it can't set for a week without a battery boost. A voltage draw of 0.1 amps is 2.5 amps in 1 day, and 25 amps in 10 days, or 225 amps in 3 months, which is half the battery on a lot of vehicles. Of course we all buy bigger batteries so we don't have this problem.
Finding these amp drains is usually a long slow solution, and so we go with battery disconnects and trickle charges.
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I was surprised about how much my auto dimming rear view mirror pulls when the rig isn't being used. Combine the mirror with the stereo, ECU, alarm, etc and I have a significant amount of draw, even without a wiring problem. My F150 has a relay that opens the circuit for several electrical items, if the voltage drops to XX Volts. I found a 12V / 30A relay on eBay that will open its circuit, if the battery drops to 10 Volts. The problem is that the relay uses 0.85 mA. It would be fine for short term use, but not for parking at the airport for 2 weeks.
I had a solar panel in my old rig that kept my battery charged, but it was broken in the wreck also.
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Why would you not wire the auto dimming mirror to either the accessory or ignition switched feeds?
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Why would you not wire the auto dimming mirror to either the accessory or ignition switched feeds?
There are maps lights under the mirror, which are nice because this rig doesn't have the factory map lights that my JLX had. I thought the always on wiring would only be used for the map lights, but it was pulling nearly an amp with not lights on. I have it disconnected to verify the diagram that was online.
It has wires for always hot, ignition hot, door switch (to ground), and the reverse light which overrides the dimming for better visibility when backing.
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I can't help but wonder if that mirror isn't defective - I don't see any auto manufacturer intentionally designing a product to draw one amp continuously - that would "flatten" the average battery over a weekend, and I'm pretty certain I'm not the only person who will sometimes have a vehicle parked in the driveway for a couple of days without starting it.
It's not uncommon for my wife's car (a 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer, with all the bells & whistles, including auto dimming mirror) to sit untouched between Friday evening and Monday morning, and there have been occasions when she travelling where it will sit for as long as a week.
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Fordem - I agree. I have more checking to do, but will verify the issue when I return. I will be gone for the next three weeks.
I hope to get the mirror sorted out and trace the turn signal issue down, when I return. I have a few other projects to finish after those two.
Unfortunately, my AC is acting up now also. It seems to be intermittent. The AC didn't work today, the engine would rev up a couple of hundred rpm, then drop back. The net result was the engine pulsing. It was as if the actions of starting the AC were happening, but one of the requirements wasn't meant and it canceled, then starting again. I will probe the AC amp when I get back also. I think some of these issues are related. Maybe some bare wires somewhere, that got water and salts in the the loom.
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I am back home for a little while and took a little time to mess with the Sport. I installed the upper coolant hard line with the new fan switch. It comes on at 180F and shuts off at 165F. It seems to work well, although my Bluetooth OBD2 isn't connecting, so I can't verify it with my Torque app. My handheld OBD2 unit is loaned out, so I may take it to one of the local stores tomorrow, to see if they can see anything on my OBD2.
The AC issue may just be the AC amplifier. I went through all the inputs to verify voltages, etc. I pulled the amp apart and found a smoked resistor. I ordered a handful of replacement resistors, but they won't be here for a while.
I would like to swap a section of the under dash wiring harness out, so I can finish the cruise control swap. The wiring harness is very difficult to get to, without pulling the dash. Pulling the dash is something I really dread doing. I wasn't able to pull the dash out on my wrecked Sport, even when I didn't have to worry about damaging it. There were some screws / bolts that would not break free. It wasn't a rusty vehicle either.
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The paint on the coolant tubing is engine paint. I tried to remove the valve cover from my wrecked rig, but it wouldn't come loose. The plan was to paint the valve cover also. The salty air here is a problem for bare aluminum.
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It looks like page 1 of your thread becomes page 5???
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I am not sure why page 1 would be 5, unless you are saying I am repeating myself and the work I am doing.
It looks like page 1 of your thread becomes page 5???
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I spent a few more hours on the Sport today. I installed the throttle pedal that has the cruise control hookup. I also installed the cruise control cable, through the firewall and to the pedal.
I checked the cruise enabled wiring harness and I can get to most of the connectors. I started tagging the ones I could identify locations for. There is an airbag connector that I don't know how to take apart, yet.
I checked the turn signal wiring from the steering wheel connectors forward and it's good. I also found out that I haven't had daytime running lights since I purchased this rig. The wire was pulled out of the DRL controller and taped up. I just looked at a few drawings online, about the DRL wiring. I am not sure the pin that was pulled was the same as what I saw in my rig. I will look tomorrow. That helps me narrow the wiring down to relays and forward.
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Where are others mounting aftermarket switches? I am particularly interested in mounting the ARB / Carling type switches for compressors and lockers. My most likely position is replacing the ashtray. I also saw that the recess to right side of the automatic shifter looks like it will work well. If I didn't plan on upgrading to cruise control and a rear wiper, I would have two positions available to the right of the steering column. .
I don't want to keep adding to the existing wiring for the factory keyless entry. I am planning to add relays that will be triggered by the key on and parking lights. This way I don't overload the key on switch and the parking light wires.
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I have been accumulating parts and working on some mods for the Sport. The bad thing is that I haven't had any time at home to finish them.
I have front and rear air lockers and an on board air compressor to install. I want to get away from the air tubing. The plan is to use a hard brake line to route air between the front and rear. This will reduce the risk of the ARB hose getting damaged. I will use braided brake lines between the hard line and the locker and from the air manifold to the hard line.
I have included a pic of my new switch setup. The winch switches will get moved to the dash. I have a dual USB output that will go in this setup instead.
I have started building the extended trailing arms. They are stock trailing arms with new bushings. The arms will be extended by an inch. The upper mount is already complete. The hold up is if I should go do a Fox coil-over conversion. If anyone has thoughts or concerns on using these parts, please let me know. I will get more pics when I return home. I want to include pics of the jig I built to
1" Shank Creeper Joint 18MM Hole Right Hand Thread (110771-K)-TSP-CJ-18MMRH-1
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/creeper-joints.html (http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/creeper-joints.html)
1" Creeper Joint Threaded Weld-In Link Bung RH (110123-1-KIT)
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/creeper-joint-nuts-and-bungs.html (http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/creeper-joint-nuts-and-bungs.html)
I was hoping to the get the rear locker and extensions in before the Fall Classic, but I am booked up until after the event.
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I decided that it would be best to have all new parts on hand for the air locker install. The bearings and seals are all new, but taking it apart and putting it back together again is questionable. I am replacing the crush sleeve with a solid pinons spacer also. The hard part is wire brushing the entire outside of the axle and repainting it. I want to rebuild the axle, install the air locker, add one inch driveshaft spacer and the extended trailing arms in one go.
I had an hour of free time today to fix the electric locks in the rear door. I had saved the locks from the old rig, because the new rig had issues with the rear doors. The rear driver didn't work at all and the rear passenger lock had a generic fix that was tie wired in. It took less than an hour to complete both door lock assembly replacements. I had to pull both door panels, remove the 3 bolts at the door latch, one bolt behind door panel, and wire connector. The hardest part is fishing the assembly out of the door and attaching the rod to the outside door handle.
I still have new electric window regulators, but that seems like an awful job to complete. The next non hardcore replacement is getting the cruise working. I have threaded the cruise enabled wiring harness behind the dash, but haven't done all the disconnecting. I have a new multi switch / clock wheel assembly to install also.
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OK, a little more progress was made yesterday. This time I have pics to post.
My horn sounded anemic, so I ordered a dual Hella hi/lo setup. The swap was easy, just unbolt the old and bolt on the new.
The AC fan is disconnected in one of the pics. It's being replaced with a new fan.
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More pics from the second partial day of working on the Sidekick. I started on the trailing arms this afternoon. I had a few mishaps, so it is already taking longer than planned. I turned the first piece a few thousandths too small and had to start over. The next piece was destroyed, just before completion, when the cutoff tool insert broke. The broken insert jammed in the part, causing it to twist in the chuck. I didn't get pics of the scrapped parts. I was too busy wondering if I had enough scraps to make more.
I started with a used set of trailing arms and new bushings. Scrap steel was used to turn parts that would allow me to press out the old bushings.
I used the horizontal bandsaw to cut the end of the arm off. More scrap steel was used to turn down an insert to space the parts an inch, leaving a gap for welding. The pieces are a snug fit into the trailing arm parts. I replaced the sleeve on my mig, but it isn't working properly. I will go to a friend's to use his tig to weld them up.
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I finished the extended trailing arms and pressed the bushings in, this past Monday. This was right before going to the airport. On the way to airport, I pulled over to grab food. I walked in and back out, to find my rear driver side door window bashed in and suitcase and backpack stolen. They also got my MV-90 air compressor and a few other things. It was an expensive theft, personally and monetarily.
I called the police and the insurance company, before heading home to repack. I left a day late to Phoenix, but the client understood.
I spent all day today (Saturday), getting a new door glass, new windshield, new front regulators, and new window tint installed. USAA is paying for the door glass and most likely the windshield. I'm hoping they pay for the re-tint also.
The first pic is my busted window on the ground next to my rig. The second is after the re-tint and some McGuire tire shine. I should use the McGuires more often. It works great on the rubber roof edge trim.
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Sorry, man, that sucks. >:( Was this in broad daylight?
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4 in the afternoon, with dark tint in the rear. They caught the guy, with my back pack the evening after. All of my electronics are gone, all of my clothes including an expensive blaser and a sport coat.
Thankfully it sounds like my passport, and a watch my son gave me are still in the backpack. I haven't been able to get in touch with the officer in charge of the case. They are keeping my stuff for evidence. I should be able to get it back soon, but I will be out of town for at least 3 weeks.
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New multi-switch with cruise installed. I still need to connect the sub harness. My hands are too big to get to some of them, so I'm plannit out a little at a time. I want to be sure I can get to every connection, before I remove the others.
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I finished another non-hardcore mod. I have been holding on to this stuff until I had time to finish it. It started raining right before I was complete, but I only need a little time to install the interior plastics and make one electrical tie in.
I read an old post about using rear surface mount speakers from a 97 Izuzu Rodeo. I tracked down a complete setup, with upgraded Sony speakers. I wasn't able get my headliner in with the Izuzu bar, so I cut it up and added alumunim mounts, secured with rivets. I also added thick double sided body adhesive to keep it from rattling.
The other mod was installing a dome light for cargo area. I had saved the factory dome light from my other Sport. This was something I wanted to do for several years.
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Nice lookin' Sport!
Hope the thief is held responsible for ALL the damage and is charged
with a felony! :police:
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He was charged for theft and for possession of identification not his. I'm not sure what the exact charges were named. He had enough of my ID to create a major issue; passport, CAC card, and various security badges.
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Cargo dome light is all wired in, and working now. It's nice having light behind the rear seat.
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First drive and first time at night. The speaker pods are not visible in rear view mirror at night. There is no visibility interference. I took the attached photo with the LED panel installed in the dome light. It works with the dor switch and the local switch.
The headliner will probably come out again for cleaning and to install insulation above the headliner. I have already covered most of the roof with constraint layer damper. It is noticeably quiter, but still louder than I want. The doors also have CLD covering about 25%.
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The Sidekick was having voltage problems one night, when I was stuck in traffic. I thought it was the switch that I installed on the ground cable, so I pulled it out and it ran fine after that. It was a cheap switch, that I had installed to keep my battery strong when I leave the Sidekick at the airport for several weeks. I didn't seem to have a problem after that, but it may have killed my alternator. The alternator had enough output to run during the day, but it struggled at night in traffic with headlights and my excessively large Spal fan. I really need to reolace that fan.
I checked voltage with the engine on and minimal accessories on. It was only putting out 13.5V. I was planning on upgrading the alternator for my winch install, so I ordered a replacement 160A alternator. I wanted to take the Sidekick deer hunting, so I put in the alternator from the totaled Sport, until the new one arrived.
The pic below is of the old alternator and the new one, side by side. There were minor differences, but it is working fine. I will test the max amps later, when it isn't raining. I had to hand file the bushing in the lower mount hole. The new alternator was 0.035" too wide and wouldn't slip into the lower bracket. Everything else went fine.
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Do you have a link or part number for the 160A alternator?
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BNR Alternator and Starters - (818) 442 -9082. They don't have one listed for a 1.8 liter. I bought the one listed for a 2.0 liter. They have eBay listings also.
I'm also upgrading the cables from the battery to the alternator and the main fuse block.
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Fordem - I found out that my AC clutch was intermittently staying engaged when the vehicle was off. That was my battery drain. I pulled the ac clutch relay, until I can diagnose the issue. I had already pulled every aftermarket accessory.
I can't help but wonder if that mirror isn't defective - I don't see any auto manufacturer intentionally designing a product to draw one amp continuously - that would "flatten" the average battery over a weekend, and I'm pretty certain I'm not the only person who will sometimes have a vehicle parked in the driveway for a couple of days without starting it.
It's not uncommon for my wife's car (a 2013 Mitsubishi Lancer, with all the bells & whistles, including auto dimming mirror) to sit untouched between Friday evening and Monday morning, and there have been occasions when she travelling where it will sit for as long as a week.
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I found a 2.3 Aerio with right at 100k miles, with maintenance records. It was running and driving, but with bad brakes and significant under body rust. We decided that the brakes and wheel bearings were too questionable. That meant I had to pull the engine and ship it or ship the vehicle. We ended up dropping the engine the next morning. Two us dropped the engine, cleaned up the mess, and prepped the engine for shipping. That took about six hours of continuous hustling. Two hours of that was just cleaning and packaging the Aerio remains for the scrapper.
The engine internals were clean and I already had the parts ready for the swap. Having all the swap parts meant that I could prep the engine for the install, before removing the running J18. I think that helped the install time. Another friend of mine helped me install the J23. The remove and replace took most of a day, including the J23 prep.
We were able to start and run the 2.3 that night. Although I now have a transmission problem. I knew I was eventually going to have to replace or work on the trans. It gave me problems on a previous off road trip and now it just isn't cooperating. I have another trans and torque converter waiting on me to have some free time. I should get some shop time next week, when I return.
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Engine and transmission are in and running well. Unfortunately, the needle bearing in the rear output of the transfer case is falling apart. I drove over to my favorite off road parts place in the Salt Lake City area and they were closed. Im going to put the 4.24 gear transfer case on the shelf, until the rebuild kit arrives. I'm going to install a stock geared transfer case for now.
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I was gone for most of last year, but I made it home in the middle of December. After a quick whitetail hunting trip in south Texas, I flew out west where my Sport has been since last year.
We got the rebuilt transfer case installed, added oil, installed a new batter, checked all the fluids, and installed the drive shafts. I was surprised when the engine cranked up on the first try, after a few seconds of turning the key. We stopped to do a nut and bolt check all the way around and drove it out of the garage. The increase in power instantly noticeable, but most noticeable at highway speeds and above. My Sport is on 255/70-16 tires and I was easily cruising above 80mph, corrected for tire size.
I still have the P1875 code that I can't get rid of. I now have a code for the EGR valve. I will check the connecter and replace the EGR if needed. The J23 had 100k miles on it. I am not sure how well it was taken care of, but it looked good when we had the oil pan off. There was only slight discoloration inside the engine and the oil looked ok, with a recent date on the oil filter.
Now I need to get the air lockers installed.
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Awesome to hear it is together and going down the road again! Any long term planning as to when it will arrive "home"?
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I have some work coming up in Salt Lake City. If I am not on a project already, I will arrive ahead of time to get some wheeling in.
The plan is to make an off road run from MOAB up to northern California on the Pony Express. After that, my son and I will head east through Yellowstone. I have done the western half of Trans America Trail in this Sidekick. I need to complete the eastern half of the TAT this year also. I will go through Idaho, South Dakota, then head down through Nebraska, and Kansas. I need to pick back up on the TAT trail in eastern Oklahoma to complete it. There is a friend in Virginia that I want to wheel with as well.
To answer your question, I hope to have the Sidekick back in Galveston just in time for hurricane season. Honestly, it's a lot more fun to keep it in Utah. I've been to MOAB in it twice now.
Richard
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I could definitely see the benefit of keeping your rig in the heart of off road fun!
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I made it back to Salt Lake City for a few days. We have the lockers installed front and rear. The front locker is in a steel front diff case. Most of the air compressor wiring is done. I need to run the tubing and test the lockers.
I plan to go with tube bumpers, front and rear. I might sell my Warn 8274 rebuild and get a more appropriately sized winch, for the Sidekick. It looks like I'm trying to mount a Sidekick to the 8274 winch, not the other way around.
I left Salt Lake and I'm in Phoenix for a few days. I will try to grab a skid plate while I'm out here. I'm heading back to Salt Lake, when I leave here.
If everything goes well, I will head north for the Fall Classic this year. I will be stateside for the rest of the year.
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I completely agree. I like driving the Sidekick, but it's hard to keep up with my buddies LS swapped FJ60 on the way to Moab. I did get pull him out when he got crossed up. He has open diffs, front and rear.
I could definitely see the benefit of keeping your rig in the heart of off road fun!
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It'd be great to see you at the Fall Classic. I'm working something up for late summer in Northern Nevada you may be interested in as well.
-Eric
I made it back to Salt Lake City for a few days. We have the lockers installed front and rear. The front locker is in a steel front diff case. Most of the air compressor wiring is done. I need to run the tubing and test the lockers.
I plan to go with tube bumpers, front and rear. I might sell my Warn 8274 rebuild and get a more appropriately sized winch, for the Sidekick. It looks like I'm trying to mount a Sidekick to the 8274 winch, not the other way around.
I left Salt Lake and I'm in Phoenix for a few days. I will try to grab a skid plate while I'm out here. I'm heading back to Salt Lake, when I leave here.
If everything goes well, I will head north for the Fall Classic this year. I will be stateside for the rest of the year.
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Eric,
I am hoping to get some time in the next month or so, but it might be September before I can breakaway.
Let me know what and when. I will try to head out there. I will be in SLC, until mid August.
Richard
It'd be great to see you at the Fall Classic. I'm working something up for late summer in Northern Nevada you may be interested in as well.
-Eric
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Drop brackets are now installed, making the CV angles much better. The rear locker is working, but I still need to finish the front locker tubing and test it. I want to run braided steel air lines, but I will start with the tubing. I ran out of time to work on it this morning and had to get back to work. I have list of other modifications and parts, but will concentrate only on the mods that will let me drive for now.
The AGM battery maintainer did it's job and the Sidekick starts right up. This battery maintainer works better than the previous one. I also have a device used on police cars that opens the positive cable connection, if the voltage drops below 12.7V. It's been in Utah since March, when we did the 2.3 engine swap. I need to plan on removing the dash to replace the ac expansion valve and replace the heater core. A good friend of mine had issues with his heater core, causing over heating problems. I have had coolant temp issues before with the J18 and I don't want issues with the new 2.3. It's nice driving with enough power to accelerate up long inclines.
I have too much work to do over the next few weeks and limited free time to work on the Sidekick or test drive the changes. I might get a weekend in a few weeks, but not enough time to get to Moab and back with any rest.
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Sounds like you are taking your rig to the next level! You may have posted this already, but what size tires are you running? I have a set of XL7 factory aluminums and am considering using them on my rig, but am debating on what size 16" tire to go with.
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255/70R16 with 1.25" spacers and factory Sport wheels.
The front tires rub the rear of the inner fender, when I air down.
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I was thinking about trying 245/75/16s on mine. I am not sure on spacers yet though. My current wheels have a wicked offset, and while it looks cool, I think it definitely limits travel on rear suspension as the tires hit the top of the fender instead of tucking in.
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The 245/75R16 will be similar in height to my 255/70R16. Without spacers I have tire rub on the frame. Without spacers, the front tires will rub the frame when turning and the inside of the fender well. The rears were rubbing the upper spring perch, before the spacers.
Don't get eBay spacers, if you can help it. I had a pair and the lugs were soft. You could see noticeable damage on the threads, after pulling and rotating tires a few times.
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That is not good to hear about the spacers! I need to start looking for some so I am ready when that time comes. It will probably be later than sooner as the tires on the ole thing still have a lot of life left in them.
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Say, what's that voltage drop out open connection police thingy you've got installed. I like that idea. It can't be as simple as a solid state relay can it?
-Eric
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Eric,
I it is a fail open relay that goes between the positive battery terminal and the cable. When the battery voltage drops below 11.7V, the relay loses power and fails open. I tested it before installation and you can hear the geared contactor rotate open. It has worked well so far. If you have a battery tender, make sure to connect it on the battery, not the PriorityStart.
https://www.batterymart.com/p-prioritystart-12-volt-promax-hd.html (https://www.batterymart.com/p-prioritystart-12-volt-promax-hd.html)
Say, what's that voltage drop out open connection police thingy you've got installed. I like that idea. It can't be as simple as a solid state relay can it?
-Eric
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My last response was on the phone and of course I started it off with a typo.
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So digging up old material from this post...the 160 amp alternator...how is it working out for you? Any complaints or concerns? Where did you source the alternator? I would definitely like to/need to upgrade my alternator in the near future and I was looking at the LROR bracket for the GM alternator, but if something that does not require a new bracket is available, I love that idea! I have already upgraded all of my battery cable wiring in anticipation of that upgrade, but just have not picked the upgrade yet.
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I bought the alternator from the following company. It was a rebuild, but it looked new. It did need a 1/16" filed off the mounting location to install it. It was an easy file job.
"BNR Alternator and Starters - (818) 442 -9082. They don't have one listed for a 1.8 liter. I bought the one listed for a 2.0 liter. They have eBay listings also."
So digging up old material from this post...the 160 amp alternator...how is it working out for you? Any complaints or concerns? Where did you source the alternator? I would definitely like to/need to upgrade my alternator in the near future and I was looking at the LROR bracket for the GM alternator, but if something that does not require a new bracket is available, I love that idea! I have already upgraded all of my battery cable wiring in anticipation of that upgrade, but just have not picked the upgrade yet.
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A brief run down in bullet form of the current status:
Completed:
- J23 is doing well, no odd noises, no leaks, no high temps
Steel front diff is in
Front drop brackets are in, CV angles are much better
Has light periodic stuttering at low speeds, maybe from old fuel.
Air pump and locker switches
Rear air locker complete and tested
Front air locker is waiting on a fitting to arrive
Dobinson longer front struts are in, but the bolt holes are larger. This prevents the camber bolts from working right.
Winch cables and solenoid are ready
Next:
- Tube bumpers are on order from Trail Tough
Will replace the 255/70R16 tires with new tires
Most likely switching from the upgraded Warn 8274 (6hp) to a smaller winch.
Not going to use the Aerio seats. No time to mod the mounts.
Need AC for when it goes back to Texas, issue is in the expansion valve, requires dash pull
Hagen mod for single CV axle type
Available to others:
- Empty aluminum front diff housing
Front aluminum third member, can include 4.30 gear if you want
Rear 1997 third member and 5.13 gears
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I took my first off road trip with the rear locker installed. We drove up to Inspiration Point, North of Salt Lake City. On the way up, there was a hill that I couldn't have made without the rear locker. It made it up easily in 4-low. I did most of the trip locked in 2WD.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/6QAmob17rXDd8ByF6
The rear output shaft on the transfer case is leaking, again. I need to check the drive shaft yoke, to see if it is causing the seal damage.
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That is awesome to hear! We are hoping to hit some trails around Red River, NM tomorrow. I think my biggest issue right now is tire size and overall ground clearance. But a locker would also be a nice addition!
Did you go with the ARB or the knockoff?
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I am using the Chinese (ARB clone) lockers. The instructions that came with the lockers are copies of the ARB instructions. I bought them while working in China a couple of years ago. I had the lockers delivered to my hotel and took them home as checked bags. Each locker came with a full installation kit and an air compressor. I have two compressors, but only one hooked up so far. I wanted to go wheeling, instead of wrenching this time. So far, everything looks good. ARB parts are direct replacements. I am using the ARB air cylinders and bulk head connectors. All of the spares I've purchased are ARB parts.
When I get the Sidekick back to Texas, I will mount both air compressors in the rear sides panels. I have also started collecting the parts to convert the plastic hose to AN braided brake lines. When I stripped the wrecked Sport, I kept the hard lines that run on the inside of the passenger side frame rail, (fuel and brake lines). I will use one of those hard lines to move the air from the rear mounted compressors to the front locker and front air hose disconnect. I want an air hose disconnect on each side of the vehicle.
That is awesome to hear! We are hoping to hit some trails around Red River, NM tomorrow. I think my biggest issue right now is tire size and overall ground clearance. But a locker would also be a nice addition!
Did you go with the ARB or the knockoff?
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That is pretty cool. I need to look into those. It makes the air locker a lot more reasonably priced.
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That is pretty cool. I need to look into those. It makes the air locker a lot more reasonably priced.
Arb outsources alot from Thailand and a Chinese manufacturer was contracted to make these for arb. Then the Chinese manufacturer just started to sell them for a profit. Few guys online have side by side comparisons. The only thing is arb has a 2nd quality control so always look them over
Same Chinese manufacturer makes electronic lockers for these suzukis too.
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I have only used them a few times. The finish machine quality was not as nice as the ARB lockers. The total price for both lockers, each with an air compressor and all the installation parts, was about $900. That was a few years ago, so it may be higher. The sales guy even followed to see how things went. It will be at least $150 shipping to the US, if I remember correctly.
PM if you want his contact information. You will need to download WeChat to talk with him. Some people are hesitant to use WeChat, due to the Chinese government being Chinese the government. I had to use the app in order to get anything done over there. It's the best way to communicate with locals. It's more prevalent there than Whatsapp has been in Europe.
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That is good info to have. I would be equally interested in an electric locker option, but since an onboard air source is on the to do list, an air locker makes some sense.
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I saw somewhere that the same companies are making electric lockers for the Sidekick/Vitara.
That is good info to have. I would be equally interested in an electric locker option, but since an onboard air source is on the to do list, an air locker makes some sense.
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I saw somewhere that the same companies are making electric lockers for the Sidekick/Vitara.
https://youtu.be/sdm7Ymsbq4o
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We had a day to get away from the project in Salt Lake, so I went wheeling in a place called Little Moab. It's an hour south of Salt Lake City. I met some Jeepers and followed them to an abandoned railroad tunnel near Little Moab.
There were a couple obstacles that would have been impossible before the new bumpers and the rear locker. The bulkhead fitting for the front locker arrived today, so I didn't install it yet.
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That is awesome! It is good to have a quick and easy escape once in a while!
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One of the Jeep drivers that I met, has a huge list of off road routes to take. There were several Jeep Renegades out there, so my little Sidekick fit in well. I'm looking forward to meeting up with them again in the near future. My rig is far more capable than theirs, but the trips and the campfire talk are good to have.
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Very cool! It was fun when we were out in New Mexico hitting the trails, no other Suzuki's seen. I have some friend's headed to Red River in their JK Jeeps...I think 35 and 37" tires, and they are concerned about not being able to handle the trails I had run... with my 28" tires.
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The night before I left Salt Lake City, I had my Sidekick at the hotel. The cat was cut out of it and I didn't k ow until it was time to drop it off and head to the airport. I dropped it at a shop to have it done while I was gone.
The shop called this morning to tell me more bad news. The thieves cut off the header collector, instead of cutting it on the back side of the flange. This is the 2.3 liter, so my header is only available from Australia. We have ordered a weld in replacement flange to fix the header. We also ordered a 1320 cat with O2 bungs, tubing, and flanges. The front O2 sensor is in the header and the rear O2 was left alone.
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Well isn't that just a peach! I guess I need to cut the cat off of mine before the thieves beat me to it!
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Anyone running front limit straps to help preserve their cv axles? I tore one on the last trip.
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Anyone running front limit straps to help preserve their cv axles? I tore one on the last trip.
I run them and just had to change them out from stretching a couple months ago. I was replacing Driver side CV's every other trip and even removed the sway bar thinking that was ripping the CV boot but then after measuring realized it was my strap that needed to be replaced.
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RJKick,
Can I talk you out of any pics and strap specifics? I am looking at straps and adjustable clevis options.
I run them and just had to change them out from stretching a couple months ago. I was replacing Driver side CV's every other trip and even removed the sway bar thinking that was ripping the CV boot but then after measuring realized it was my strap that needed to be replaced.
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RJkick - Thanks for dm for the limit straps. They will help my CV's survive longer.
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I was able to get the new catalytic converter in and repair the flange on the header. Unfortunately, my rear output bearing was toast. The replacement bearing didn't arrive in time to make the last ZukiWorld trip. I have ordered a complete transfer case rebuild kit, but I am going to look locally for the bearing. I already have the seal. I am hoping the whole t-case isn't toast.
I have installed Corbeau Moab seats. The brackets don't match the Sport, but they were close enough to modify for a proper fit. I am using the stock seat belt receivers. I don't have any pics yet, but will have some soon.
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Looking forward to pics of the seats! I pulled the seats out of my parts rig because they are in better shape than my originals, but some aftermarket seats are hanging on the back burner.
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I am heading to Portland in the morning to get my pickup. The plan is to overnight in Oregon, then drive down to Salt Lake City, where the Sidekick is. I will grab a couple of pics of the seats to post.
I have the following things coming up:
New bearings for t-case
Limit straps front and rear
New front strut mounts are flipped. I have Dobinsons extended struts and need to flip the mounts back over.
Fix A/C control cable that broke
Will eventually replace all A/C components. I live in Texas and A/C is a necessary requirement.
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I didn't get any seat pictures or even see the Sidekick this past weekend. I drove my new to me truck from Portand to Salt Lake City, arriving late and leaving again early in the morning. I am heading back to SLC to pull the transfer case and get it ready for my next trip. The new truck is only 2wd and not suitable for off road pin striping.
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Make for nice road cars though!
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Here is a picture of the new seats. The pic was taken at night with led dome light on, through my tint. There are some reflections from the nearby buildings.
I received the rebuild kit, but had to buy different output shaft seals. The ones that came in the kit would just slide in. The of of the seals wasnt right. A local bearing house saved the day. The transfer case is installed and it drives well.
Looking forward to pics of the seats! I pulled the seats out of my parts rig because they are in better shape than my originals, but some aftermarket seats are hanging on the back burner.
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Drone637 - It is definitely a nice ride. It was worth the trip to Portland pick it up.
Make for nice road cars though!
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Those seats are pretty nice! Hope they make the ride more comfortable!
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The seats are more Comfortable than my wore out originals. I won't have to keep cleaning the foam that was always falling out of them either.
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Once it starts snowing under the seats, it is definitely time to go! I swapped the seat out of my parts rig, which where mildly better than my originals, but at least they don't have a piece of metal poking the tail! Do those seats fit well with the interior? Height good?
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The seats fit well and are comfortable. I'm using the original seat belts too. The only problem is that the bracket doesn't work with the Sport without modification.
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I had a pair of seats out of a 90's Mustang I was going to use. They were in really good shape, and comfy, right color, etc. I got the passenger seat installed and lived with it for a while. I ended pulling it because they just did not "fit" with the interior. The seat bottom was a bit wider and crowded the console, and the seat just generally looked out of place. Back to an old adage "Just because it fits doesn't mean it is right". Those seats look to be sized correctly and really look good with the interior. I looked them up and they are pricey, but Corbeau is a good seat, so I am sure they are worth it in the long run. Do you know, are they a "suspension" style seat?
Also, another question...the window switches in the console for your rear windows, is that the factory location? I have swapped out the original rear console in mine for the piece from my parts rig because it had the cup holders. Now my rear window switches are just hanging out under the brake handle, and I am trying to figure out what I want to do with them. I like the way the location in yours looks.
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I am pretty sure that I replied to this a while back, but I just received a notification of your post.
I thought about seats for a while, before deciding on these. I didn't want it to look like a poorly executed swap. I measure the space and the width of several seats, before just going with these.They fit well, there was a bracket available, although it isn't a perfect bolt in for the Sport.
That is the factory center console / cup holder for the Sport. That is the factory rear window switch location. There are other connectors under there. I am not sure what they are for.
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I finally mounted the Altered Ego lower front control arms. The additional 1.5" has been great. My tires don't try to rip my fenders off, if I turn too far.
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I was too late to make the fall classic. I arrived to Utah on the start day, but had to prep the Sidekick and make a 12 hour drive. Which means it would have been a 12 hour drive back or ship the Sidekick. I decided to mount my Altered Ego lower A-arms. After that, we drove the Lake Mountains and Little Moab.
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Your rig is sure looking sweet! Do you have any comparison pics of the control arms?
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JollyZuk - I did not get pics of the control arms, but you can find them on the Altered Ego website. I was able to post pics of the clearance between the tires and fenders, both before and after the install.
The parts came in quickly. The shipping time may have been luck that they had them ready. The control arms went in without any issues. They were also a very welcome upgrade.
I have unfortunately sold the Sidekick recently and moved to a much larger rig. I only used it for trail runs and don't work in Utah as much as I used to. I picked up a rig that I will use for longer rides and an more easily use as a daily
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Anyone of the forum near Galveston, TX? I have a couple of good transfer cases, several oil filers, air filters, some new brake parts, etc. I'm cleaning out the Sidekick stuff from my garage to make room for the new build.
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Everything has been claimed.