ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Tan Zuk on October 12, 2012, 12:04:05 PM
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Here are the suspension and drive train stats:
88" wheelbase, 84 inches tall, 82 inches wide.
Front frame extended 8 inches rear 3 inches
4 1/2 inch YJ lifted springs
Toyo 38's and 16x12 wheels
85 Toy front axle with all Trail Gear inners including Trunion Bearing Eliminator
529 gears open and High Pinion, 6 Shooter Knuckles with High Steer and 1 inch
Space.r
Rear axle is Trail Gear offset Sami Toy housing, 529 gears open and 1.5 spacers,
Rear Disk Brake, Outboard Shocks.
FJ80 steering box, Panhard bar and Rancho 9000 36" length.
ZOR Snatch
6.1 Transfer Case Gears (24% High Gear Reduction) Gears are from England
The trans has been completely rebuilt
No driveshafts yet
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Here is the motor. I have a small machine shop and machined a lot of the parts for the
motor, suspension and steering mods.
Here is the Before Pic
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Chucks%20Trucks/BeforeMotor.jpg)
After
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Chucks%20Trucks/AfterMotor.jpg)
Motor: 1.3 .020 over and deck shaved,
I used dish pistons because of the decking,
1.6 Reynolds ported polished and larger valves and shaved head.
Adjustable timing gear was used because of the shaving of the head and block.
I also had to make a custom timing adjuster wheel. It was too small in diameter and was unable to get the timing belt tight.
Internals are balanced and flywheel,
I'm going to use a Centerforce clutch this time.
The intake was made from a solid block of 6061. It started at 35 pounds when the machining was done it was 8 pounds. I also decided to machine the water ports in the manifold.
The carbs are 32mm Katana GSX-F.
The external accessories on the motor I have also machined up.
The distributor has been switched to mechanical.
6061 Aluminum Intake
( This ways a solid block and weighed 35 pounds )
When it was finished it was 8 pounds
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/Intake2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/Intake3.jpg)
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(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/MotorRunning.jpg)
Please feel free to click on the link to hear the motor run.
8) http://www.skyscomputers.com/pictures/friends/Zuk%20Motor.wmv (http://www.skyscomputers.com/pictures/friends/Zuk%20Motor.wmv) 8)
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One of the coolest build I have seen. I love the engine!
Is there a write up on how to make a dist mechanical instead of electronic?
Rob
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One of the coolest build I have seen. I love the engine!
Is there a write up on how to make a dist mechanical instead of electronic?
Rob
Thanks Rob for being the 1st to check in on the build.
Yes there is a write up on the Dizzy mod. The info is a little hard to follow may vary from one engine to another and Dizzy to Dizzy. I can dig it up if you need it.
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The Rig is rather high as you can see. This presented some unique problems trying to get the steering geometry setup without a steep angle. I will go through the mods and the parts that needed to be made to correct the problems in the next couple of posts.
I also have an unusual steering set up with the FJ80 box, Lifted YJ springs and the addition of the Panhard bar just to make it more complicated. There is not a great deal of room to work with when you have to add a shock tower in the mix on the DS.
Steering Front View. I still need to do some welding and fitting yet.
The steering geometry is set at 5 degrees.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/Steering.jpg)
Panhard Bar was bent at one end to 5 degrees to shorten the PS mounting bracket. I have a 3/4 Heim in the DS and will be using a suspension bushing on the PS. This will help the bar from flopping with the bend in it.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PanhardandSteeringRods.jpg)
Extended High Steer Arm was made from 8620 the same material the 6 shooter arm is made out of. These pieces will be tig welded together. The block started off at 30 pounds. After several hours of whittling I got it down to a more manageable 9 pounds.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/SteeringArm1.jpg)
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Now that I have the FJ80 box mod done. The next issue was mounts for shocks, panhard and bump stops. This took me quite a while to come up with something to incorporate all of this into 2 mounts.
Note:
These mounts were made to sandwich over the TG Shock and Ball support Brackets on both sides.
Driver Side (Side View) Shock Mount and Bumpstop Pad
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/DSShockMount.jpg)
Passenger Side (Rear View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad that still needs to be added to the top.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PSShockMount.jpg)
Passenger Side (Side View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PSPanhardMountSide.jpg)
Passenger Side (Front View) Shock Mount ,Panhard Bracket and Bumpstop Pad
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PSPanhardMountFront.jpg)
Drivers Side Frame Panhard Bracket and Lower Bumpstop Mount
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/DSPanhardFrameMount.jpg)
NOTE:
Thought I would add that I switched over to the 6 shooters after the pics were taken.
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This is the side that got to be very congested.
Components:
Fj80 Box
Panhard Bar Bracket
Ford Shock Tower
Mods:
1" Frame Notch
Frame Plating
Bump Out for the Steering U-Joint and Box Plating
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/LoweredFJ80Box.jpg)
Drivers Side Bumpstop Mounting and Pad Locations. There will be additional bracing added to the Panhard Bar Mount for the stress of the Bumpstop Action.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/FJ80BoxPanhardBracketandBumpstopmount.jpg)
FJ80 Box 1/2 Extension Block. I added this to lengthen the Drag Link. This will also cut down on the angle and decrease the rotational effects of the Panhard Bar.
Note:
The Drag Link length is 37 1/2 inches. Anything over 36 inches is ideal for a Panhard Bar applications.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/FJ80BoxExtensionBlock.jpg)
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I see that the pics don't have an optional larger size.
Sorry, This will make it a little more difficult to see the detail.
Feel free to ask questions or make comments.
Thanks
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Here is a link to the Dizzy mod
Link
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?P=30a1e29db46c18143f52e476efe0145e&topic=91020.0 (http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?P=30a1e29db46c18143f52e476efe0145e&topic=91020.0)
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Thanks for the link!
OK, so as beautiful as this Sami is, I take it you do plan to drive it everyonce in a while? It would be a shame to put that much time and effort into it not to enjoy getting behind the wheel.
I would love to strip mine down to nothing and clean/paint it all. I have to be very realistic with mine and know I have to drive it every day. But it sure makes me jealous that you have such a nice Sami to drive/work on.
Rob
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Thanks for the link!
OK, so as beautiful as this Sami is, I take it you do plan to drive it everyonce in a while? It would be a shame to put that much time and effort into it not to enjoy getting behind the wheel.
I would love to strip mine down to nothing and clean/paint it all. I have to be very realistic with mine and know I have to drive it every day. But it sure makes me jealous that you have such a nice Sami to drive/work on.
Rob
No problem,
Oh, yes it will get driven not too hard and mostly on the street. I will however give it a good shake down run when it is done to be sure everything is good to go.
I also have a DD TT that gets me to and from the shop. This kind of takes care of my need to get the big one done in a hurry and drive it too often. The DD does need a little work and I keep telling it that it will be the next in line.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/DD/2Zuks.jpg)
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Beautiful work, that rig is way too pretty to get dirty!
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Beautiful work, that rig is way too pretty to get dirty!
Thanks, apprieciate your compliments. The grinding dust is the major problem in keeping it clean now. :laugh:
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Beautiful work, that rig is way too pretty to get dirty!
Thanks, apprieciate your compliments. The grinding dust is the major problem in keeping it clean now. :laugh:
Man, I can relate to that. ;D
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Toy-Zuk Hybrid Steering Link
Here are the parts I used to attach the Zuk steering column to the FJ80 box.
Toyota 1980 4x4 Steering Slip Yoke Link
Zuk stock steering link
NOTE:
These pieces were shortened, machined the ends for a press fit then tig welded.
The reason I used the Toy slip yoke was to let the shaft be able to move under flex. I have seen other parts used I thought this would be a better solution. I have had a couple Toy 4x4 and the slip link worked well.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/Steeringlink.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/SteeringLink2.jpg)
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Here is a comparison pic:
Without Front Bumper and Valance
With Front Bumper and Valance
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/BeforeAfterFront.jpg)
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Its the little things that help the most. I find using wood and cardboard for mockup is very cheap and less time consuming to use. If it doesn't work out no big deal.
I even machine up my proto type pieces from wood first. Just to make sure they work out.
Wood Extended High Steer Arm
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/HighSteerArmSide.jpg)
Finished Piece
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/SteeringArm1.jpg)
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Here is another example of not spending money on parts until I have a good idea that it is going to work.
Using materials I had laying around the shop consisting of:
Conduit Pipe
Duct Tape (used to wrap the threads on the Heims for a tight fit)
Masking Tape
Cardboard
Couple of 2x4 Wood Pieces
Couple old Heims from an old project.
2 old 5/8 Bolts
This was used to help me layout the Panhard Bar
Here is a pic Marked in detail to show you what was used.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PanhardMockup.jpg)
After looking at the above example I thought I should show the parts in their proper position. This will give you a better idea what I was using them for.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PHMockup1.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Zuk%20on%2038s/PHMockup2.jpg)
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This is an amazing build. And my wife pointed out your shop is clean! Very good work, I enjoyed your attention to detail, which sometimes (mostly) eludes me.
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This is an amazing build. And my wife pointed out your shop is clean! Very good work, I enjoyed your attention to detail, which sometimes (mostly) eludes me.
Thanks very much for the compliment.
You are the 1st to ever mention they had the wife looking at the build. You can let her know that my buddies thought that I needed to clean the shop up even more before the pics were taken. Just keep it tidy enough so I'm not tripping over stuff and can find my tools when needed.
Use to build custom motorcycles for awhile also being a machinist for 35 years tends push you to be more detailed at things. Not sure if it is good or bad at times.
I would just say consentrate on making things as safe as possible even if you have to do it a couple of times.
Take Care Terry
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Since there are members with SJ 413, this next group of posting may be of help.
I will keep the Tip Theme continuing
Here are a couple more tips when rebuilding the motor:
Oil Pressure Fittings.
I thought that I would add this because it really isn't covered much. The oil pressure fittings on top of the oil filter are NOT standard pipe threads. I have read on several posts that it is OK to just thread your accessory oil line in and there is no problem.
CAUTION:
You are asking for trouble if it decides to let go. You are just cross threading it in and the only thing that is really holding it in is the taper.
If you are rebuilding the motor it would be a good time to do this. I would not advise doing it with the motor in the Zuk because of the metal shavings that will get in the motor.
I wanted to see how many chips would actually get in there while I was doing it on the engine stand with the motor positioned like in the pic but facing the floor. This is the hard way but I wanted the chips to fall out by gravity also. I used grease on the tap. I also made an extension for the vacuum and sucked out everything I thought. Well, that long oil passage that runs from end to end still had some chips in it. I had to use a bore brush to get them out.
I would only suggest re tapping them at rebuild.
If you are planning on an oil pressure line. I read that there are adapters from the stock thread to a NPT. I haven't got any PN's or have I tried to find any
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Engine%20Tips/OilPressureMod.jpg)
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Priming a new motor build with oil
I have been a Chevy motor guy for awhile now and have built up a few motors. You can use the distributor pickup drive adapter to spin to prime the motor. This is simple enough.
I was very concerned about starting what is known as a dry engine. The Zuk motor has no real way except the starter motor to do this priming, The problem with that is it spins a bit too fast, it will cause friction and you still really don't have any oil in the areas that are critical.
I did find a work around. Not the best way and it is messy and a bit time consuming.
Better safe than sorry.
I pulled the plug fitting off the pass side oil pump and threaded a pipe fitting with a 3/8 hose end on it.
CAUTION:
You have to be careful treading the fitting in because the threaded hole is a (BSPT) British Standard Pipe Taper thread. Put some thread sealant on it and just snug it. Then pump in 2 or 3 quarts of oil.
I used a suction pump I got at Harbor Freight.
This will push oil up through all the passages. When you have finished (this is the messy part) take the fitting out and reinstall the plug and use thread sealant on the threads. This should also fill up the oil filter as well. I also put oil in the filter and let it set for a while to let it soak the oil up and then install. Be sure you do this before the priming is done.
Then put the remaining quarts you have left in the oil fill in the valve cover. Now you can use the starter motor
CAUTION: DO NOT continually crank the starter!! Do it in intervals you can still create heat.
It is still not going to pump up immediately but everything that is critical should be coated from the priming you just did and the assembly lube that I hoped you used.
I did mention earlier about those oil plugs that need to be re threaded above the oil filter to NPT. It would be a good idea to install an oil pressure gage in one of those holes now to monitor when you get oil pressure.
(THIS WILL STILL NOT SHOW UP IMMEDIATELY BE PATIENT)
CAUTION: BE SURE TO PULL COIL WIRE BEFORE CRANKING THE STARTER.
When you get the pressure it is now safe to start. Run at about 2000 RPM for 20 min for break in.
The pic will have an arrow at which plug to use to prime with.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Engine%20Tips/PrimingEngine.jpg)
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Motor Tips Continued
Hybrid Motor Parts Match
Which ever block you are using. (Use that head gasket)
When using a1.6 Head on a 1.3 use this Distributor combination:
1.3 Dizzy
1.3 Dizzy Housing
You will also have to use the 1.3 cam.
Note:
There is a difference in length on the cams where the gears are.
You will need to use the 1.3 Front Timing Gear on the cam.
CATION When Purchasing A New Head:
It is not easy to find a good head. These motors were made to eat themselves especially the head. When I bought my first (New Zuk in 87) the joke was they had a 50 Thousand mile Throw Away Motors in them.
More than likely someone is going to sell you something that has oversized cam journals in it. They don't have cam bearings to replace you have to send them out and get them machined for the new selves they sell. The way I found this out I had a few merchants sell me bad heads. I have the equipment to check the bores and they were oversize and I sent them back. This was after spending time talking to them on the phone and asking this specific question about the oversized conditions before purchase. Be prepared for a lot of smoke being blown up your ### from some of these merchants.
Hope This One Helps.
This info I have not come across in any of the research I have done in several years. I had to learn the hard way.
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Ok, I will take a break from the tips.
I have a DD TT and it gets BAD road noise and when it rains it sounds like a tin shed. I knew that I was going to address this problem in the new Rig by installing Dynamat.
Here are a few pics of the new interior and the Dynamat process. I found by working in smaller pieces and get it pressed down tightly was the better way (JUST MY OPINION).
The firewall front cab and tunnel was a challenge. I also did the inside of the doors and inner panels.
Painted Interior
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/PaintedInterior.jpg)
Roof DynaMat
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/Roof.jpg)
Driver Side Rear Inner Panel DynaMat
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/DSInnerpanel.jpg)
Driver Side Panel & Seat
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/DSSeat.jpg)
Headliner
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/Headliner.jpg)
PS Front Panel
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/DoorPanel.jpg)
Rear Panel
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/RearPanel.jpg)
Rear Mounting Panel Bracket Front
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/PanelMount1.jpg)
Rear Mounting Panel Bracket Side
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Interior/PanelMount2.jpg)
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That looks so awesome! I bet its more fun to work on a clean rig than an old dirty one.
Rob
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You sure would never know looking at it now. I need to get my good DD built now. Maybe I can strip the next one down and built it up like yours. Then I can pass the DD down to my son who sure loves to drive it.
It sure looks nice. How many man hours do you think you have in it? I won't even ask about the cost of refurbish and upgrades.
Rob
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Hey Rob,
That sounds like a awsome idea handing the Zuk down to your son. Nice to have a hobby to share together.
I have just been doing the build for something to pass time and have not really been clocking time spent. Don't really plan to sell it since it is a Bucket List build.
The intake I made up from a solid block of aluminum I did tho. It took 260 hours just to machine that. So there is qutie a bit of time in the Rig build.
I have been building projects for some time now. I try never to start on a build unless there is some type of realist budget set. This build is not as bad as some of my rodrod or bike builds as far as money. That is why I picked the Zuk to do this time.
Nice Chatting with you Terry
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This info seems to be very well appreciated on ZuWharrie, ZukiKrawler and Suzuki Club UK and was moved to sticky’s shortly after posting. Hope that you get something out of it as well.
The trans is not talked about too much and being in the process of rebuilding the one going in this build. Thought it would be a good time to share a few tips and tools that were picked up on in a couple of pervious rebuilds.
Reference Rebuild Info:
This is a good step by step and pics
http://www.geerdijk.com/files/suzuki/tranny_rebuild.pdf (http://www.geerdijk.com/files/suzuki/tranny_rebuild.pdf)
The FSM will be needed for a few things that were not covered.
This is my minimum parts list and parts # from LROR.
1----STM-ISR-----------Samurai Transmission Front Input Housing Bearing Retainer
2----STM-CRSB--------Samurai Clutch Release Shaft (throwout) Bushing
1----STM-TNB----------Samurai Transmission Needle Bearings
1----STM-RRTB--------Suzuki Samurai Transmission Tail Shaft Bushing
1----STM-UTM---------Unbreakable Rear Transmission Mount
1----SDT-TBS----------Samurai Transmission Shifter Bolt 86-89
1----STM-TIP-----------Samurai Timing Inspection Plug
1----SDT-TMBN--------Samurai Nylatron Transmission Shifter Bushing
1----STM-RKS----------Samurai Transmission Rebuild Kit w/ Syncros And Silicone
1----STM-CRSOS-----Clutch Release Shaft (Throwout) Oil Seal
There are a few grey areas I will try and shed some light on.
The countershaft installation is one of those grey areas. This is the procedure that works well with a press, mallet, couple of sockets and a piece of pipe.
Pics are marked in detail
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/1.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/3.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/4.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/5.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/6.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/7.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/8.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Transmission/C-ClipRemovalTool.jpg)
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Here is another one of those gray areas that I will walk you through.
Rear Tailshaft Bushing is something that is probably overlooked.
A couple of reason for changing it are:
There always seems to be metal shavings on the rear tialshaft bearing location flange. The worn out bushing seems to be causing this problem.
The worn out bushing will also cause the driveshaft to have excess runout and will cause the seal to leak prematurely.
The pics are marked in order of removal and install.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Tailshaft%20Bushing/1.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Tailshaft%20Bushing/2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Tailshaft%20Bushing/3.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Tailshaft%20Bushing/4.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Tailshaft%20Bushing/5.jpg)
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Here is a link to one of the other threads that gets updates and questions
Link
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=45336 (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=45336)
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Here is a very rough idea of what I have in mind. I agree with the Bumpstop pressure with the angle as I need it. I have several triangulated basketry and a stabilizer DOM bar. The bar is another thing in the making it needs to function around the steering arm and not bump into the tire at full lock.
This is probably why I never came across this setup when researching the subject. There is a lot going in 1 place.
I will be adding the brace to the other side as we discussed earlier. It will need to have some Heim joints so I can remove it. I want to put the engine and trans in from the bottom because of the height issue. This bar will be tied in to a much beefier bumpstop mount on the passenger side.
To be honest I have tried to get the spring to go down 3" using my engine hoist and some ratchet straps and I haven't got there yet. Don't know how often they will actually come in contact.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/MuckupFrameMount.jpg)
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Ok, going through the achieves for the body prep pics. These are also pics that have not been posted before.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/1.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/3.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/4.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/5.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/6.jpg)
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The Zuk is over my buddy shop across from the painter. The primer is on and fogged with the darker color for the finish sand and checking for low spots.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/p1.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/p2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/p3.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/p4.jpg)
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Here is the insde being painted. This is the last of the body and paint pics that I have.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/InsidePaint.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/InsidePaint2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Rust%20Repair/InsidePaint3.jpg)
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Thought I would post a couple of pics of the DD. This is more conservative with mostly store bought goodies.
DD Stats: SPUA, AC, 1.3, 31's, 10" rims, Toy 2TC Carb, 4" Hell Creek springs, Cal Mini Shackle reverse, 1.25" spacers, 4.9 Transfer case gears, Zor snatch, Sky half OTT Steering and Mostly Original paint.
Had the hood and the back door repainted and replaced the rear door hinges.
Will be glad to answer any questions on the DD.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/DD/DD1.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/DD/DD2.jpg)
Toy #250 Carb
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/DD/Solenoid.jpg)
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Updates:
Burned in the Panhard/Bumpstop mount in at 12*
Burned in the Modified Ford Shock Tower at 8*
The lower portion of the Bumpstop mount was boxed in. This was to conceal the nuts holding the Heim Joint and the Bumpstop in place. This will also give it more strength and add an additional place for a support bracket for the 1.25 DOM Front Brace Tube.
Working on the bracket that is on the shock side of the mount. This has many compound angles and will be a full box. I will also try and add some holes with support tubes.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/DSWeldedOn.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/DSWeldedOn2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/DSWeldedOn3.jpg)
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Panhard Mount Bracket being made. This is the 1st of 3 brackets.
This is the lager bracket and will be partially concealed with the shock. This will make it not as noticeable.
Steps:
Starting pieces needed to be tacked in place because of their irregular shape.
Matting box pieces will be fitted and welded in place.
Bracket will then be removed to weld the inside
Holes will be popped in and support tubes added while it is out.
Final Bracket burn in
Note: Rear side plate still needs to be made to complete the full boxed bracket..
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/BackView.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/InsideView.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/SideView.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/BottomPlate.jpg)
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Very nice build and awesome machine work!
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Very nice build and awesome machine work!
Hey jcowdin,
Thanks a lot for taking the time to post have only gotten a couple.
Appreciate the compliments.
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nice work!
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nice work!
Thanks Talonracer for the support. :)
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nice work!
Yeah.
I just keep reading and admiring the fit and attention to detail. 5*, 8* not I'll try this. You are filling up the underside of that Samurai though. Are you going to use a brush to paint it? Or, does it all come out for paint?
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BRD HNTR
Thanks for the question been waiting for some. Hopefully there will be some more.
The frame will be prepped with Ospho metal inhibitor which is wiped on with a rag. Then POR 50 will be brushed on with a foam brush. May also use some type of bedliner also brushed on. This way there is no real need to R&R all the components.
The front end parts will be taken out and probably done in the same manor except some paint instead of beadliner.
Oh as far as the attention to detail. Planning on using the Rig for mostly street use. Going down the road straight was a priority , little better handling with the added panhard bar. The extra work in the steering was to get the links as close to parallel to keep the bump steer to a minimum
Thanks for the comments as well greatly appreciated.
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This has been an interesting bracket to make. There were no parallel surfaces on any of the pieces and there were a few compound angles. The shapes looked more like a kite then a bracket.
The first 2 steps are done.
Steps:
Starting pieces needed to be tacked in place because of their irregular shape.
Mating box pieces will be fitted and welded in place.
Bracket will then be removed to weld the inside
Holes will be popped in and support tubes added while it is out.
Final Bracket burn in
The pieces will be welded together while it is still on the frame. The tacks will then be cut off the frame to make it easier to work on bracket for the holes, installing the support tubes and weld the inside for strength.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/ShockView.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/ShockClearence.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/BracketTacked.jpg)
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Again awesome work.
It looks to me that the brake line hole is sized just enough for the fitting to get through and you still have to have a bracket for the transition to rubber brake line. If the tube had been larger size with smaller hole on brake drum it could have been the bracket and access hole. Not that I am being critical, I was thinking it small and vibrations against it making a hole in brake tubing unless tied down, then relooking at photos and noticed the connection point etc.
Am I wrong?
What are you using to strip the oils out of metal you are using before painting. I am finding even after wiping down with acetone or paint thinner, priming with lacquer, and painting it will sometimes blister (like the paint never adhered to metal) years later.
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1 1/4" X 1/4" DOM is pretty stout. Is the idea to make a guard out of for the steering arm? Bottom support bracket 3/8" with two 1/4" upper support brackets, are you building this for KOH? I thought that my 1/2" transmission/TC mount was too heavy, but I was tired of it bending when I turtle'd on it.
I want this when you are bored with it!!! Even though Self Built feels better.
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Here is a sneak preview of the finished DS rail to give you a better idea of the finish product since there seems to be interest. Really don't lke to post the finish pics 1st will post up the process and the parts being made to complete this shortly.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/TubeInstall.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/TubeInstall2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/TubeInstall3.jpg)
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My Radius Tube is finally here!!!!!
After spending 3 weeks wasted on 2 shops that never bent the tube. I remembered book marking a frame shop when working on the Willys that bends custom frame rails. Gave them a call on Thursday and was at my door Tuesday.
Decided to drop everything and get to work on this Rad Tube and Support Brackets. Got the tube cut down and burned in made the bottom bracket and tacked it in place. Still need to make the 2 upper Brackets.
You will notice there is plenty of clearance between the Steering Arm and the Rad Tube. There is also enough room to be able to remove the FJ80 box.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/RadBracket.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Driver%20Side%20Steering/RadBracket2.jpg)
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Very impressive work still. I have to wonder with the constraints of getting everything squeezed into the limited space, why didn't you go to coil springs?
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Very impressive work still. I have to wonder with the constraints of getting everything squeezed into the limited space, why didn't you go to coil springs?
Reasons:
The coils were not considered because of the extra body roll for street use
Have more experience with a leaf spring install.
Actually everything that is on the rail would have still been needed with coils.
The location of the parts would also stay in the same place no matter which was used.
The coils would also need some type of link system.
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Been busy stripping the bracket and under coating off the PS rail. Here is the progress and a bit of future direction on this side.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/1.jpg)
PS box plate with rosette weld holes.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/3.jpg)
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PS Box rail and Bracket updates
As you can see the inner plate shape changed from the previous posting. This shape added more surface area then the 45* arrow ends. The additional material was helpful in tying in the top box plate that will be added.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/InnerRailPlate.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/InnerRailPlateFinished.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/2.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20Box%20and%20Brackets/OuterRailFinished.jpg)
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Here are a few pics of the modified high trans mount installed.
Click on pics for larger view
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Just amazing. Every time I see your beautiful Fab work, I want to roll my Sami off a cliff. Mine will never be as nice as yours and that just doesn't sit well with me. :)
I read the thread when I need to see what something should look like.
Rob
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Sick work.. Beautiful rig ;D
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Sick work.. Beautiful rig ;D
Thanks for the support ChiefZuki
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There are quite a few more steps to this mod. Will post them up in intervals to give those interested a chance to take in what is being done.
Please feel free to ask questions.
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(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/3.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/4.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/6.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/7.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/8.jpg)
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Finished up the belt tensioner and bracket and installed a 4 ribbed belt.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/Tensioner.jpg)
Needed to make a custom return line elbow for the pump because the pump is located between the frame and motor.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/Fitting.jpg)
Here are a few views of the finished PS/AC. To mount the pump in the bracket with the motor in the engine compartment. The front lower arm needed to be removed which does not compromise the strength of the bracket.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/PS%20pump%20and%20AC%20compressor%20Bracket/All.jpg)
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Motors In!!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Motor%20In/MotorInPS.jpg)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Motor%20In/MotorInDS.jpg)
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That is the best Samurai engine bay I have seen.
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That is the best Samurai engine bay I have seen.
Thanks BRD HNTR,
Just getting started.
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Is anyone having issues with Photobucket since they introduced their New beta version?
The only thing that I can do is login nothing works and there are no pics.
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Since having all the issues with the New Photobucket decided to use a different totally free site with no advertisements popping up all over the page. Since the only pics that I had on PB were just for the build threads that I have it was not a big problem for me to leave PB behind.
The new site is Majuba easy to setup.
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Still following the build and it just keeps getting better. The power steering and AC mounts are a work of art and must have had you rubbing your head a few times :laugh: I seemed to have missed what type of PS pump that is ? lIs it more powerful than stock?
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Still following the build and it just keeps getting better. The power steering and AC mounts are a work of art and must have had you rubbing your head a few times :laugh: I seemed to have missed what type of PS pump that is ? lIs it more powerful than stock?
Hey bentparts,
Oh yes trying to get the AC & PS in had me scratching my head a few times. Its tough enough just putting both on any way. The limited space was the biggest challenge and trying to keep it as simple as possible.
Here is the Trail Gear link to the PS pump you were asking about.
Link
http://www.trail-gear.com/full-hydraulic-pumps (http://www.trail-gear.com/full-hydraulic-pumps)
Went to this pump because of the 38's and the higher volume over the stock pumps.
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Thanks for the link Tan Zuk. I may have to go to something like that to help overcome my handicap ( old age :laugh: )
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Just takes too much time to do a build thread, to have 3 years of info unrecoverable when it crashes. Sorry, just can't justify my time here any more.
Since there was a lot of interest in the build, here is an alternative solution.
If you would like to follow more of the Zuk on 38's build with updares
Here is a link.
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942 (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942)
Thanks for following Terry
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Good luck putting the finishing touches on that master piece you built, Terry! It needs to be a museum piece. It's just too damned beautiful to put on the road.
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Just takes too much time to do a build thread, to have 3 years of info unrecoverable when it crashes. Sorry, just can't justify my time here any more.
Since there was a lot of interest in the build, here is an alternative solution.
If you would like to follow more of the Zuk on 38's build with updares
Here is a link.
[url]http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942[/url] ([url]http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942[/url])
Thanks for following Terry
To me this has been the backyard fence to discuss everything it takes to improve Zuk's for our activities. While this data loss has been enormous like a house fire destroying most all of your possessions. But, the fence is still there and members like neighbors will drift in out. Some will stick around and help rebuild and others will move on to other places, hopefully we will see at the fence in the future.
I have enjoyed your awesome abilities, and attention to detail. And I will always wonder the fate of the transmission noise, until you return.
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Well, I can understand if you are only loyal to a certain site.
Just thought by throwing a bone and posting this link would be helpful, since most just like to only look anyway.
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942 (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942)
This would give you the oppertunity to follow along with the noise issue resolved and the new direction the build is going.
It's up to you if you are still interested.
Terry
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I have been on Zukicrawlers, and other Zuk sites, so it is not just a loyalty thing. This site had a connection through the members, that the others did not. Three years memory loss may be too much maintain the connection of its members, but it's way too early to give up. So I will still be here on the fence when you feel like a discussion, and you can see what I have been up to also.
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glad to hear your sticking around brd....I'll always be here to help newbies and give advice as im a 02 tracker. I will keep posting all the mods I do to "the mule" but build thread is just to long ...but winter is coming so might repost it
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Beagle, I haven't looked at my build thread but 3 years is the better part of it. I'll just add some new stuff as I do it, and should start a new thread soon on a project I have been working on. And I am still waiting for a trail run in BC for the adventure section.
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love that engine!
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Just wanted to give a short update for those interested. Going to be setting up the lift this week. I also purchased a 99 Grand Prix with 88,000 miles for the new doner motor.
Here is the motor
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/SUPERCHARGED/L67.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/SUPERCHARGED/L67.jpg.html)
Will probably only be posting updates on the other site
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942 (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942)
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Thanks for the update. We will like seeing this portion of the build also.
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Looks like the new drivetrain upgrades are finally on the way.
Finally got the lift installed today without any problems. Wasn't so smooth the 1st attempt the installers showed up 3 weeks ago, the power unit was not shipped with the lift.
I was in the hospital when it arrived with no email notice it was on the way. Luckly my landlord was working and unloaded it and stuffed it in my shop. After some negotiations with Bendpak they finally sent a new power unit.
Going to install another trans in my buddies Zuk tomorrow to test the lift out. Hopefull the electrician makes it out this weekend to finish wiring the lift. Will get the grand prix on the lift and yank the motor next.
Been busy gathering parts, having a v6 700r4 beefed up and a custom Torque Converter made as well. Got my Advance Adapter kit for the 700r4 to Toy case and a Toy RF1A Transfer Case, have it all cleaned and ready for mockup. Will probably stick some Marlin 4:70 crawl gears in it when I go through it and maybe twin stick top shift conversion.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Lift/Lift%20Front.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Lift/Lift%20Front.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Lift/Lift%20Top%20Back.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Lift/Lift%20Top%20Back.jpg.html)
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So the new tranny install in my buddies Zuk went well using the lift. Put one of the trannies I rebuilt for the Zuk on 38's in his Zuk. The trans works great with no noise. We used an AZ flywheel and NAPA clutch without any issues.
That noise issue I was having was from the block alignment pins being off location. This was causing the spline in the clutch disk to bend. This caused stress in the trans which transfered back to the t-case, causing the rattle noise. Only found this out after removing the motor, trans and t-case bolted everything together using an engine stand on the floor and checking everything.
Eventually I will plug the alignment holes on a trans and relocate them to fix the problem.
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It is good to see new posts on this thread. It is also good to see that the trans install went well on the other Zuk.
I just experienced my first trans rebuild. it was a learning experience, but went well for my Sidekick. Most of us would love to have a lift like that. I will have one some day.
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Just wanted to give a short update for those interested. Going to be setting up the lift this week. I also purchased a 99 Grand Prix with 88,000 miles for the new doner motor.
Here is the motor
([url]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/SUPERCHARGED/L67.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/SUPERCHARGED/L67.jpg.html[/url])
Will probably only be posting updates on the other site
[url]http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942[/url] ([url]http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942[/url])
I have the 3.8 in my GP w/o the supercharger. I can only think that is going scream, if needed.
Looking forward to your posts again.
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It is good to see new posts on this thread. It is also good to see that the trans install went well on the other Zuk.
I just experienced my first trans rebuild. it was a learning experience, but went well for my Sidekick. Most of us would love to have a lift like that. I will have one some day.
Not going to rebuild the thread for the lost info, thats happened twice now. Will probably just be doing brief updates with a few pics.
Yes, it was nice to see (that) trans is working well in my buddies Zuk. When you have a noise issue like that and spend alot of time tearing things down and rebuilding them and nothing works. It tends to knock the confidence lever down a few notches. I just happened to pickup up a block with bad alignment locations, luck of the draw. I would recommend rebuilding a motor you have history with to avoid hidden issues such as this.
Glad to hear you had a good out come with your trans job. When things work out well it makes you want to try more things and thats when you get hooked.
Never really wanted a lift but I need it to pull the body off while I roll the frame out to work on the transplant. It will also come in handy when finish welding up the frame on the Willys.
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I have the 3.8 in my GP w/o the supercharger. I can only think that is going scream, if needed.
Looking forward to your posts again.
Yes, I think this will be a much better combination motor and drivetrain for the big Zuk and what it will be used for. It is very quick, just couldn't go through all the trouble of the swap without being unusual. After all having a superchager under the hood is like adding bacon to your food, doesn't get any better.
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Got the motor pulled, lucky there was a write up on removing the motor or I would have never found the "B" bolt on the bellhousing. The hardest part was trying to fiqure out how to disconnect all the quick connects with the eyes being so bad. Used alot of youtube videos to help with the process.
Having some issues with the new lift. Installers telling me that I will just have to live with it like it was. Called Bendpak and had to finally get a hold of upper management to take care of the problems. Installer coming back out today to resolve ths problems or it is going back.
The new trans didn't go any smoother. Went over 3 times to pick it up after being called to say it was finished. Showed up all 3 times and it was not completed, finally got a look at it the last time and they had not even cleaned the grime off the case.
The machanic working on it told me he has been working there 27 years and they let everyone go with 1 days notice and the shop was being closed. Since I had just talked to the new owner about the warrenty and was assured not to worry. Decided to cut my losses now and just be out the cost of the AA adapter for the Toy t-case then pay for a trans with the place closing up shop.
Unfortunate situation with the trans shop they were really good at one time and highly recommended for quality work. Aleast to machanic told me or I would have gotten hosed worse.
Guess I'm still making forward progress with the normal bunches of negective situations that always slow progress to a crawl. Hopefully I can find a good trans shop and get that out of the way. Get the lift issues fix so the body can get pulled off the frame for mockup of the new motor and drive train.
Stipping the motor down to clean and repaint. Cut the oil filter in half and checked the filter material and it was very clean also did a compression check and was 180. Way easier to do on the engine stand then in the car, coundn't even get to the rear side plug wires when in the car. Next need to relocate the TB to face forward to have room for the motor in the engine compartment. Should have some pics next time.
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Looking forward to photo's of initial squeeze. That is when you realize just how tight it is going to be. This is going to take your skills to fit in there.
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I looking forward to the pics also. More pics of your excellent skills.
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Here are a few pics of the S/C being cut down to make room for the forward facing TB induction tubing. This needs to be done or the TB will be under the dash and in the cab.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/2.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/2.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/3.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/3.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/4.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/4.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/5.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/5.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/6.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/6.jpg.html)
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I wouldn't have the cejones to cut into the SC, like that. I do enjoy watching you do it though. Thank you for posting.
Edited - would to wouldn't
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I wouldn't have the cejones to cut into the SC, like that. I do enjoy watching you do it though. Thank you for posting.
Edited - would to wouldn't
Can't take credit for the idea to cut the S/C like this. Did a bunch of research and came across a couple different methods. Don't think I would have cut the S/C up just on a whim it might work.
Coping someone elses idea exactly, just doesn't cut it for me either. I will add my usual twist to it and hopefully it will come out with something more suited to my needs and a little more refined.
Glad to see your participation in the rebuild.
Terry
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Want to beable to remove the new forward facing TB tube for ease of maintenance, without having to remove the S/C each time.
Decided to have the removal plates located at the back of the S/C, just to give it a cleaner look. The pipe to be used will be 3in O.D with an 1/8in wall J bend at a 170* rad to kich it out a bit. The tube will be welded to a 1/2in plate that bolts to the back of the S/C.
Have some captions on the pic to give a better visual.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Add%20Ons.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Add%20Ons.jpg.html)
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Here are a few pics of the of the S/C with the new pieces welded to it. The welds were smoothed out and the face machined. May have a few changes to this configuration, since it is a work in progress.
Decided not to add the buildup weld to the inside areas that were shown in the last post. Have a couple other ideas for this next part of the puzzle.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Finished%20SC%20Mod%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Finished%20SC%20Mod%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Finished%20SC%20Mod%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Finished%20SC%20Mod%202.jpg.html)
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Thanks for the updates. Looking forward to seeing more.
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Here are a couple of pics of what the final mod should resemble when completed. There were several things that will be different but the basic concept is there. This one bolts to the rear of the S/C as well, but in a different manner and the induction pipe is steel. Aluminum will be used on my induction tube and may be all polished, thats for a much later time.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/IMAG0310.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/IMAG0310.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/IMAG0307.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/IMAG0307.jpg.html)
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That will look awesome. I am a fan of black, more than polished though. I am doing my '39 standard in satin black and doing what would normally be chrome in gun metal.
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Getting things disconnect to raise the body off the frame. Made some measurements from the rear portion of the upper ft bumper tube for reference points. May also clamp some 1" angle to the frame where the fire wall would be for better ref points.
The trans people are back from racing. Went down Wends. to tie up what is going to be done. There is alot more that needs to be done to these smaller v6 700r4 to make them last, particularly when running large tires and the S/C motor. These guys also make alot of their performance parts and dino all their transmissions.
Couple of important things on the v6 700r4:
Try and get an 1987 model, these have a better platform to start from. Which allows you to use all the better parts up to 93, since GM was constanly updating this trans every 6 months.
These smaller 700r4's can also be fitted with the higher HP upgaded v8 parts. You will need to find a shop that can accomplish these mods, most will say it can't be done.
The Torque Converter needs to be built for this application. You will be using the front portion that bolts to the flexplate from the 3800 S/C motor. The rear portion will have the mating shell to mate to the 700r4. It is a good idea to get the upgaded TC clutches.
The TV cable for the 700r4 must have the proper geometry on the TB or carb for it to regulate how much pressure is needed. If done incorrectly the new trans could be destroyed in a few miles.
If there is interest in the trans components, I could post a list of items when it is finished.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PB210008.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PB210008.jpg.html)
Decide to add some more material to the narrower surfaces of the modded S/C flange. This makes a much wider area for sealing and mounting.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/PB210009.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/PB210009.jpg.html)
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Managed to get the body off the frame before the lift decided it would no longer release the locks to lower it. Really hard to believe all the problems associated with this lift since I've had it. Particularly after reading all the positive reviews on this lift when researching, begining to think research on the internet is a waste of time.
Fortunately I try to have 35 things to do daily and if it goes well usually I manage to get one done. The rest of the time it is putting out fires or fixing something. Sure will be glad when this project is completed.
Wanted to readjust the lifting points, since the TT is heavier at the back. Have a couple of ratchet staps being used to be sure it stays where it is until the lift gets fixed. Not much of an endorsement for Bentpak if it can't handle picking up a Zuk body without breaking down.
Here are a couple of pics.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20Install/PB230011.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20Install/PB230011.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20Install/PB230010.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20Install/PB230010.jpg.html)
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Your shop is impressive, and I know that I will be impressed by what you are doing to your TT.
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Thanks BRD HNTR,
Been trying to set up a decent working shop for years. Doesn't matter how nice the shop is or how many tools you have. If luck is not on your side, it is tuff to get things done in a timely manner.
Terry
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The installers were back out today for the lift, paid them to make sure they would correct the problem.
Turns out 1 lock was hanging up in the slot causing it to jam. I made a couple of spacers for both locks to center them in the slots for the installers. Had them grease everything this time before putting it back together. Lock release seems to work much easier now. Going to use it tomorrow hopefully there are no more problems.
Let Bentpak know that I've worked with them long enough with the on going issues. The lift will be returned if there is any more issues, this advise was given to me by my credit card company.
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Terry, I do not think that luck has that much to do with my getting things done. Once retired i find that every thing takes more time than I figured it would, and that includes enjoying being retired and not working on projects.
(Checking on your project late in the night doesn't take time from other projects, cause I don't need much sleep tonight.)
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Terry, I do not think that luck has that much to do with my getting things done. Once retired i find that every thing takes more time than I figured it would, and that includes enjoying being retired and not working on projects.
(Checking on your project late in the night doesn't take time from other projects, cause I don't need much sleep tonight.)
I'm glad that you have the extra time to check in on progress.
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Decided to take some ruff measurements to see if any of the brackets that were beefed up and upgraded for the Zuk drive train could be used. Unfortunately looks like none of the brackets fell into the could use category. Since these brackets were wrapped with 1/4" material, they are very thick. Usually the cut off wheels are used but since they were so thick broke out the cutting torch. Still wasn't that easy since they were double walled.
Need to finish smoothing the cuts down, which takes some time. This gives me something to do until the trans is done and I can slide the assembly in for mock-up.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20Install/PB290007.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20Install/PB290007.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20Install/PB290008.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20Install/PB290008.jpg.html)
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Again, thanks for the latest news on your build.
I spent the time off for thanksgiving working on my new shop. I moved to a much smaller place that allows me easier access to the airport. I spent the last several days running electricity in the shop and moving equipment. I can finally use one of my lathes again.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
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Again, thanks for the latest news on your build.
I spent the time off for thanksgiving working on my new shop. I moved to much place that allows me easier access to the airport. I spent the last several days running electricity in the shop and moving equipment. I can use one of my lathes again.
When you get the new shop all setup, post a couple of pics here. Would like to see it.
Terry
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I will post pics when I get it all setup. It is much smaller than our place in the country, but I should be able get everything in there, except a full size mill.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
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You guys with great shop equipment are making some of us envious. So I hope you are having more fun with your equipment than time wheeling. It would be just rewards for being able to do it right instead of just fixing it when it breaks. >:D
But I would look you up when I break down in your neighborhood. ;D
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I would look forward to you showing up even if you didn't break down. My shop isn't like TanZuk's. It is just a two car garage with too many tools.
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I would look forward to you showing up even if you didn't break down. My shop isn't like TanZuk's. It is just a two car garage with too many tools.
I just had to rib you two, as I know that set up, measuring, cutting/milling, and fitting to get pieces exactly correct, takes a lot of time.
I would have invited you up when you were in Portland, but I am about 250 miles further north.
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Been awhile since my last post.
The new trans shop was having problems finding an 87 v6 700r4 trans, which ate up 5 weeks. Since this seemed to be problem, decided to hunt a trans down myself. Luckly I found several the next morning the 1st place I called had 2, so I took both of them.
This didn't really speed up the completion time of the trans, since I'm still waiting on it. Figured might as well get caterac surgery while waiting to kill some time. Finally there was a need to get this project in muckup mod, unfortunately there is no positive completion time line for the trans.
The work around goes like this:
Going to use the 2nd trans for muckup. Ordered just the housing from AA today to be able to bolt the drive line together. The rear housing will be removed from the trans and the mainshaft will be cut down to accept the shorter AA housing and bolt up t-case. This should work out fine and everyone should be happy now.
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For those interested in the list of upgrades being done to the v6 700r4. This will handle the supercharged HP and the 38's. This also includes custom torque converter with composite clutches.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/SC%20HP%20Trans%20Parts/Trans%20HP%20Rebuild%20Parts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/SC%20HP%20Trans%20Parts/Trans%20HP%20Rebuild%20Parts.jpg.html)
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Thank you for keeping us updated. Your project went from awesome Zuk to full hotrod Zuk.
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Thank you for keeping us updated. Your project went from awesome Zuk to full hotrod Zuk.
No problem. Yeah, guess with that noise issue kinda got me soured on using any more Zuk parts. Looks like the end result will probably be as you described.
Terry
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Finally getting something done and parts are rolling in.
Getting the trans the AA housing and the t-case bolted together.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Trans%20Shortened%20Shaft.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Trans%20Shortened%20Shaft.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/AA%20bolted%20up.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/AA%20bolted%20up.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/T-Case%20Mounted_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/T-Case%20Mounted_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Trans%20and%20T-Case.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Trans%20and%20T-Case.jpg.html)
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Oil filter adapter issue and work around
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Pontiac%20Oill%20Filter%20Adapter.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Pontiac%20Oill%20Filter%20Adapter.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Buick%20Oil%20Filter%20Adapter.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Buick%20Oil%20Filter%20Adapter.jpg.html)
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Lower Intake Manifold mod.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Intake_4.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/Intake_4.jpg.html)
Oil return hole mod
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Timing%20Cover%20Mod.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Timing%20Cover%20Mod.jpg.html)
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Swapping Oil Pans
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Oil%20Pan.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Oil%20Pan.jpg.html)
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Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets
The 3.8 motors are known to blow these gaskets since they are made of some type of plastic composite. These gaskets actually crumble at the ports and if you are lucky it is just oil in the water.
Felpro makes a good alternative gasket that is made from aluminum and has a molded in sealing surface. Found that Summit Racing is about the cheapest place and free shipping over 99 bucks.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/Intake%20Gasket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/Intake%20Gasket.jpg.html)
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Low Intake Manifold Mod completed
This mod will help with better flow of coolant to the middle cylinders, since the TB coolant ports were blocked off. Used a pencil air grinder with an 1/8 carbide bit. Go slow and becareful not to damage the sealing surface for the cup plate. Decided to only put an 1/8 deep relief in the damn wall, seemed to be good enough with all the excess casting wall removed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/LIM%20Coolant%20Mod%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharger%20TB%20Mod/LIM%20Coolant%20Mod%202.jpg.html)
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Motor hanging in place.
The motor was stripped of all accessaries including the exhaust manifolds, supercharger, lower intake, oil pan, timing cover. Everthing had a through cleaning and the parts and motor will be painted pontiac blue after mockup. For now everything was just snugged in place to check for fitment.
Got the motor hanging in place probably build a couple saw horses to hold the motor in place so the body can be lowered down to check fitment. The motor mount holes set very low on the block and the frame bends upwards also. This combination is going to make some strange angled traditional frame mounts. May go with a motor mount tube crossmember for an added structural support since the stock Zuk front tube crossmember will need to be removed for the radiator. This would only leave me with the front 2x2 crossmember that was added to the 8" front frame extension.
It is a tight fit even without the AC and powersteering installed. Have a couple of work arounds for these issues without notching the frame.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20In%20Front.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20In%20Front.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20In%20Side.jpg)[/URL (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20In%20Side.jpg.html)
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It would fit great in my Sidekick Sport :)
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I just love your work! It looks like your shop is still awesomely clean and has all the equipment to build what we dream about.
The only thing I find questionable is an "iron block". (It is heavier than it needs to be.) Now I had an na 3.8 in my 2000 GP and it was a tremendous engine, so having the blower should really make it push that Sami.
I'm glad you're still here showing us how a craftsman builds his toy's.
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It would fit great in my Sidekick Sport :)
Be careful what you wish for. I thought the same thing until I saw where the motor mount locations were on the block. It is also a costly swap which I took into account when I was gathering info.
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I just love your work! It looks like your shop is still awesomely clean and has all the equipment to build what we dream about.
The only thing I find questionable is an "iron block". (It is heavier than it needs to be.) Now I had an na 3.8 in my 2000 GP and it was a tremendous engine, so having the blower should really make it push that Sami.
I'm glad you're still here showing us how a craftsman builds his toy's.
Thanks BDR HNTR I appreciate your work as well. Not really that clean just happen to have to clean up abit since there was alot of things and room needed to hang the motor. I cleaned up better after the pics were taken.
Yes, this is a pig of a motor at 470 pounds. It will be about 450 pounds heavier then the Zuk drive train.
I agree it should get out of its own way now. Rear driveshaft angle is not the best for alot of abuse. Think it will settle down about 3" once everthing is in. This will help with the angle.
Thought I would try it one more time. Hope that there isn't another mishap, since there isn't much left on the thread. I have several of these build threads on the other Zuk sites. Try to share and help everyone that wants to stop in.
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Working on the motor mounts
Started off with a 3/8 plate to attach to the block, since the spacing between the 3 bolts is abit wide in one spot and narrow in another. Also considering the motor mounting on the lower side of the frame.
Have a 15* angle on the square post to angle it up towards the bottom of the frame.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Mount%20Front.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Mount%20Front.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Mount%20Side.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Mount%20Side.jpg.html)
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wow that's gong to scream when done. and just like everyone else drool over more power and having space to do it
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Not sure what you are using for motor Isolators. I used poly spring mounts, which mounted below your frame with a plug weld in center and a plate up the inside of frame should hold that beast securely.
(My drawing skills are rusty)
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wow that's gong to scream when done. and just like everyone else drool over more power and having space to do it
Thanks beagle for check in. Yes the extra HP will be a welcomed upgrade for the rig, the beefed up 1.3 was holding its own but was just having to work too hard.
Terry.
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Not sure what you are using for motor Isolators. I used poly spring mounts, which mounted below your frame with a plug weld in center and a plate up the inside of frame should hold that beast securely.
(My drawing skills are rusty)
Hey BRD HNTR thanks for the drawing, seems you still have some skills there.
Going to go with something like this, will be using square tube with gussets instead of round. The frame portion will extend over the top of the frame and will get boxed and maybe a gusset. Picked up (2) 2in x 3in long DOM sleeved motor mounts for 1/2in bolt from Ruff Stuff.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5F62C419-FEF2-4C5C-A7C8-6DD0BBB8D8BF.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5F62C419-FEF2-4C5C-A7C8-6DD0BBB8D8BF.jpg.html)
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Having to do some redesigning of the front bumper for different mounting points and the top rail fish plates needed to be removed for longer ones. The front square 2x2 crossmember will be removed and a new 2x4 crossmember will be installed. There will also be gussets added to the new crossmember after the radiator has found its new location.
These mods I felt were needed to strengthen the 8 in front extension since the stock front tube crossmembers will need to be removed to make room for the radiator and electric fan. There has also been more plating added to the middle portion of the frame. This area will be getting more weight and torque, just didn't feel comfortable with the (Thin) Zuk frame to handle the stress.
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The photo is llike I have my motor mounts.
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Thanks again BRD HTR
Here are a few pics of the new front frame and front bumper design. These mods were done to add more strength since the stock tube crossmember needed to be removed to fit the radiator.
The middle section of the frame was also plated since the Zuk has such a thin frame.
Front bumper mod
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Redesign%20Front%20Frame.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Redesign%20Front%20Frame.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Cutting%20Front%20Bumper.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Cutting%20Front%20Bumper.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20Bumper%20Mod.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20Bumper%20Mod.jpg.html)
View of the crossmembers that will be removed and replaced.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Crossmembers.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Crossmembers.jpg.html)
Middle section of frame plating
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Frame%20Plating%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Frame%20Plating%202.jpg.html)
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Caution: There is some prep work needed to be done before removing a crossmember. If you are not carefull the frame can twist out of shape.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Preperation%20Jig.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Preperation%20Jig.jpg.html)
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Front extension reworked, new front crossmember installed and new front bumper mounting points were installed.
Seem to be on a more forward direction now, since there doesn't seem to be anything else left that needs to be cut off the frame.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/New%20Front%20Crossmember.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/New%20Front%20Crossmember.jpg.html)
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Here are a couple more different views of the front frame redesign.
Top view
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/FRAME.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/FRAME.jpg.html)
Side view
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Frame.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Frame.jpg.html)
Inside view
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Inside%20Frame.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Inside%20Frame.jpg.html)
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Finally got the motor strapped in place to let the body down to check for fitment. Without any cutting of the tunnel, was able to get the body lowered down to an 1.5 in off their mounting locations. Was happy with that and can now mark the areas that will need to be widened.
Was able to mount the motor lower in the frame, since it has plenty of lift for clearence. This helped with the driveshaft angles and COG and not having to cut so much out of the tunnel. The springs should settle down about 2 in after it gets driven this will also help with the driveshaft angle.
Started out with a 19 in double candium rear driveshaft, with the new dive line looks like it will be about 27 in. Motor is centered between the rails, pitched at 6 degrees and 13 in from top of supercharger to the highest point on th frame hump.
Going to get a Sanden #7 AC comressor, these are very small like a Zuk one only 6 ribbed. This should work in the lower driverside mounting location wihout modifing the frame. It also is short enough to beable to squeeze the driverside motor mount in.
Had to order another Rock Assult rear axle assembly since I now need a centered pinion housing. This was already put into the budget before the swap was stared. The good thing was everything was on sale with free shipping. Looks like the DD is going to be getting some upgrades when this one is done, so the disguarde parts wont go to waste.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Top%20View%20Motor%20In.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Top%20View%20Motor%20In.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20Motor%20In.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20Motor%20In.jpg.html)
Have 2 different angle TBI induction templates, now it will be easier to make a decision which way to go. Remember the body still needs to drop 1.5 in.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/30%20Degree%20TBI%20Tube.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/30%20Degree%20TBI%20Tube.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/45%20Degree%20TBI%20Tube.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/45%20Degree%20TBI%20Tube.jpg.html)
Here is a pic of the new driveshaft angle, the t-case should be 1.5 in lower once the springs settle.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Driveshaft%20Angle.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Driveshaft%20Angle.jpg.html)
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Is the 6 degree pitch of motor to allow transmission to set level?
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Is the 6 degree pitch of motor to allow transmission to set level?
Not really.
When installing a new powertrain it is recomended 0 to 6 degrees. These angle settings will help driveline angles to the front and rear axles and proper u-joint geometry in theory.
In my case with alot of lift it was set to 6 degrees and the motor dropped as low as possible to get a more manageable rear driveshaft angle with a double carden driveshaft.
There was also some juggling with how far forward the motor could go to get the longest rear driveshaft. Next thing was the new forward TBI intake tube needed enough clearence from hitting the firewall. There also needed to be enough room left over to fit the radiator, electric fan and AC condenser under the hood.
Quite a bit to keep in mind when picking the 0-6 degree initial powertrain angle.
Hope that helped Terry
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I was thinking that you had motor tilted to the side. I know that the ecotec bellhousing has about 8 degrees of tilt built in, so either motor is slanted or transmission is. So I was stumped that the 3.8 would be that way, (my mistake) yours is slanting towards the rear.
That motor looks really good in there, I thought it would appear much bigger.
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I was thinking that you had motor tilted to the side. I know that the ecotec bellhousing has about 8 degrees of tilt built in, so either motor is slanted or transmission is. So I was stumped that the 3.8 would be that way, (my mistake) yours is slanting towards the rear.
That motor looks really good in there, I thought it would appear much bigger.
Probably a poor choice of word on my part, sorry for the confusion. The Zuk motor is tilted to one side to straighten out the trans as you described.
For as big of motor it is (520lbs loaded), it does seem to belong in there. Im going to try and keep the engine compartment as simplistic as possible. The strangest part of the swap is the new Toy t-case shifter location falls in the same t-case shift hole location on the Zuk. Go figure!!
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So is the slant causing the T-case to hang low?
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So is the slant causing the T-case to hang low?
This is a good question. I also see you like slant better.
In simplest terms there needs to be a priority to your compromise. The highest priorty for me was to get a decent rear driveshaft angle. The lift will take care of the t-case possibly being a bit lower. On most full size 4x4 the t-case always hangs lower then the frame any way, visually it really doesnt look bad.
Have a 6in hang down from bottom of frame to the t-case drain plug. There is still 24in of ground clearence. The transmission pan is about an 1in lower then the bottom of the frame. To me it doesnt look all that bad. Thinking alot of people would be happy with 24in of ground clearence and it should fit my driving needs.
Frame hang dimension
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TCase%20Frame%20Hang%20Dim.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TCase%20Frame%20Hang%20Dim.jpg.html)
Gound clearance
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TCase%20Ground%20Clearance.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TCase%20Ground%20Clearance.jpg.html)
Had a bit of spare time before some new parts arrived. Decided to finally make an axle rack to keep them all in one small space and not use up valuable shelf space. Purchase some scrap metal for 25 bucks and knocked this out. Not quite done yet but it should hold 6 axle housings front and back sides. There will be an area to hang the axle shafts down from the highest bar on the backside. There will also be room for 3rd member and a place to hang rotors.
Axle Rack
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Axle%20Rack.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Axle%20Rack.jpg.html)
The new centered Rock Assult axle assembly came in along with the much smaller Sanden #7 AC compressor. You can see the sze difference in the pic. Now the is plenty of room between the frame and the motor. Being it is also much shorter and the lines are top mounted the motor mount will be much easiet to make.
New parts
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/New%20Parts_2.jpg)[/URL (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/New%20Parts_2.jpg.html)
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Here are a couple of pics of the axle rack, have about 30 bucks into it and it must weigh 250lbs empty. Not quite finished yet, going to get some spay bedliner to touch up the bare metal. This matches the powder coat finish that was on the old wieght bench that was repurposed into the rack.
The backside hold (2) Zuk axles and that post is at 90 degrees with 2x2 mounts that are set at 15 degrees. The leaf sping perches rest on the mounts, which holds the axle in [lace with a 3rd mounted. Decide to add a couple of stops to the mounts to keep the axles from moving.
The frontside is angled at 15 degrees along with the 2x2 mounts. 4 Housings can be held which consist of 8 3/4 for Willys a space and 2 Toy axles.
The top of the rack consists of 2 rows of tube to hold 10 axleshafts. There were protective isolators made of 1 1/2 PVC and shortened couplings. The was to protect the axle bearing and seals surfaces.
Top view axleshaft rack
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Axle%20Rack/Top%20View%20Axleshafts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Axle%20Rack/Top%20View%20Axleshafts.jpg.html)
Axle rack
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Axle%20Rack/Side%20View%20Rack.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Axle%20Rack/Side%20View%20Rack.jpg.html)
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We are always getting interesting information when you post build info.
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I was going to say that rack was similar to the one we have in our shop, but then that would be like saying my dollar bill is like your ten spot (they both spend). I like the shaft and bearing additions. We have been trying to reduce storage of parts for future non existent projects, so that storage is converted to whatever needs some place to be.
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We are always getting interesting information when you post build info.
Well, there is always something needed to be made around the shop and the axle rack has been long over due. Just thought Id show something that could be knocked out in a reasonable amount of time and take a little break from a tedious build project.
Kind of a booster, knowing that I can actually complete something. Glad you got something out of it.
T
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BRDHNTR not too many different ways to build and axle rack, just put a few more bells and whistles for the shop needs. I'm absolutely sure yours is servicing its function unit it gets repurposed into something else.
T
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Things are coming to a crawl again, seemed to be having health issues again. Granted I'm not getting any younger but I do eat well and exercise.
Started off a couple of weeks ago, when moving a couple of fully loaded axles from the top shelf of the pallet rack. This seemed to trigger a breathing problem, to help with that it is back on the bike every morning for 6 miles. This always seems to help stretch my lungs out and make breathing easier.
The following week got a marjor cold which causes more breathing issue even though I'm still biking every day. Finally start getting better from the cold and got hit on my bike Friday morning and got some pretty badly bruised ribs out of the spill.
Looks like it is going to be light duty for a few weeks. Hope I get this bucket list build finished before the bucket gets kicked for the last time. ;D
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I hope that you get well soon. Take care if yourself.
Things are coming to a crawl again, seemed to be having health issues again. Granted I'm not getting any younger but I do eat well and exercise.
Started off a couple of weeks ago, when moving a couple of fully loaded axles from the top shelf of the pallet rack. This seemed to trigger a breathing problem, to help with that it is back on the bike every morning for 6 miles. This always seems to help stretch my lungs out and make breathing easier.
The following week got a marjor cold which causes more breathing issue even though I'm still biking every day. Finally start getting better from the cold and got hit on my bike Friday morning and got some pretty badly bruised ribs out of the spill.
Looks like it is going to be light duty for a few weeks. Hope I get this bucket list build finished before the bucket gets kicked for the last time. ;D
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Got some work done on the Zuk. Still not 100 percent from cracking a couple of ribs but things need to get done, only much slower now.
Started off by making a catdboard radiator/ fan/ condensor mockup template. Was hoping not to have to cut the front cowl and loose the hood latch. That tought was shortly thrown to the fire when there wasn't enough clearence.
Front side rad template
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mochup%20Rad%20and%20Condensor.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mochup%20Rad%20and%20Condensor.jpg.html)
Back side rad template
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mockup%20Rad%20and%20Fan.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mockup%20Rad%20and%20Fan.jpg.html)
Waterpump to fan motor clearence
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Fan%20Clearence.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Fan%20Clearence.jpg.html)
Front view of condensor and rad
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mockup%20Rad%20%20mounted.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mockup%20Rad%20%20mounted.jpg.html)
Needed to spend some time getting the motor and driveline centered, leveled, proper height and drivetrain angle. This is was done so I could clearence the tunnel for the 700r4 trans and get the body back on the frame.
Noticed there are a few members doing motor swaps. Thought this process might help someone out.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20motor%20Mockup.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20motor%20Mockup.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Mockup%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Mockup%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Mockup%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Mockup%202.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Mockup%203.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Mockup%203.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Drivetrain%20Angle.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Drivetrain%20Angle.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Level.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Motor%20Level.jpg.html)
Now its time to put those Zuk sizzor jacks to work to hold the t-case centered and get the proper mounting position. The mounting posituon takes the longest to do since there are so many things to take account for. This is not the time to rush.
Centering the t-case
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Centering%20Tcase.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Centering%20Tcase.jpg.html)
Setting the mounting length
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tcase%20Mounting%20Dimension.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tcase%20Mounting%20Dimension.jpg.html)
Now it is time to clearnce pocket the tunnel to fit the v6 700r4 trans.
Driverside
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Driverside%20Tunnel%20Relief%20Cuts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Driverside%20Tunnel%20Relief%20Cuts.jpg.html)
Pass side
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Passengerside%20Tunnel%20Relief%20cuts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Passengerside%20Tunnel%20Relief%20cuts.jpg.html)
Finally got the body on the frame.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Body%20on%20Frame.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Body%20on%20Frame.jpg.html)
Oh almost forgot, here is the new home for the fully loaded axle rack. Wish I had done this sooner, have made a bunch of room on the pallet rack.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rack%20New%20Home.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rack%20New%20Home.jpg.html)
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Next thing to do is get the new smaller A/C compessor mounted before making the motor and drivetrain mounts. This way I can still move things around alittle for better clearence and fitment.
Started off by tring to use the original A/C braket and maybe with a little tweeking it would work. Unfortunately that didn't work, the bracket needed to be 3/4in longer to match up with the ribbed belt pulleys. The compressor also neede to be clocked for the inlet hoses to work in the limited space remaining.
Since space was tight the FJ80 mounting bolts needed to be flipped, with the heads facing towards the motor. Now it is time to make a new bracket, since there are so many things to work around a block of wood was used. This way the bracket can be made quickly and modified easy. If it doesn't work out you didn't waste an expensive block of aluminum.
There is also a pesky lower radiator hose that needs to fit in that thight space. Along with P/S and A/C hoses, radiator, fan and A/C condensor.
Wood mockup A/C bracket
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010021.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010021.jpg.html)
A/C compressor in place, think this is going to work.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010022.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010022.jpg.html)
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Had to make another mock up wood A/C compressor bracket. After running the S/C belt din't fell comfortable with the S/C belt to compressor pulley clearence. Looked like the compressor could be 1/4 in lower and a 1/4 in to the frame and would see how that looked. The new and improved moch up bracket was made with the new compressor location.
The clearence was great for the S/C belt to compessor pulley but it was too close to the frame. Didn't need to make another bracket, just plugged the upper mounting hole for the compressor. The lower mounting hole location was fine, just reclocked the upper hole back towards the motor and that worked out.
Had a Trail gear P/S pump that was going on the Zuk motor. Decided to use it since it was the 1400 psi over the stock pump. This pump also fit beteen the fame rails since it has a remote reservoir. Used a PSC 5.5 pulley and a Harbor Freight pulley installer. Looks like the pulley is out of alignment by 1/8 in to the + side with the pulley flush to the shaft. Will need to see where I can shave off the material to get the pulley alignment.
Put the body back on the frame loaded the mock up Radiator/Fan and put on the front bumper. Wow, things got very tight quickly. Thought it would be a good idea to get the lower radiator hose in place and see how the A/C hoses were going to clear and routing the lines to the Pass side of the Zuk. With alot of head scratching and quite a few breaks, finally came up with a plan.
Ordered the radiator, fan and condensor should all be hear by Thrusday. Going to have an interesting next bunch of days fitting these parts. Then it will be time to start making motor, trans and t-case mounts.
Here is a pic of the progress with the compressor clearence, new bracket, belt clearence, A/C hose clearence/ routing and lower radiator hose. There will also need to be 2 powersteerng hoses added to the mix.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/AC%20Clearence.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/AC%20Clearence.jpg.html)
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Guess I will call this stealing from Peter to pay Paul.
Had a pulley miss alignment issue and needed to come up with .230 material that needed to be removed to fix the problem. Looked like the pulley could be moved down .130 and the bottom out on the pump. I still needed to come up with anothe .100 to correct the problem.
A Thought: Just because you bought brand new aftermarket parts, doesn't always mean you can use them the way they are.
Ok, Here was the process.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%201st%20Cut.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%201st%20Cut.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Blend%20Face%20Cut.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Blend%20Face%20Cut.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Machine%20Top%20Pump%20Face.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Machine%20Top%20Pump%20Face.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20Pulley%20Face%20Machined.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20Pulley%20Face%20Machined.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Pocket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Pocket.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/6%20Pulley%20Installed.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/6%20Pulley%20Installed.jpg.html)
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Great work, as usual.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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I think someone may have done something similar using a Bastard File. I can think of several reasons for calling it that, and most of them apply his reasoning (not the cut of the teeth).
Any way it is frustrating to get something that should fit, and is just out acceptable to use.
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Thanks for looking in and the posts Ridjobradi and BRD HNTR. Thought I was by myself for awhile there.
Terry
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The Radiator came in a day early, never had that happen. Had a request to see the rad in place with the body on. Yes, there will need to be mods done to it.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Ft%20Rad.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Ft%20Rad.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Top%20Rad.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Top%20Rad.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Inletand%20Ourtlet.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Inletand%20Ourtlet.jpg.html)
Terry
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Thanks for looking in and the posts Ridjobradi and BRD HNTR. Thought I was by myself for awhile there.
Terry
Your read counts keeps going up, so I know that more than Ridjobradi and I are following. My radiator is almost same size, so I can't figure out where you are finding all that room.
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Your read counts keeps going up, so I know that more than Ridjobradi and I are following. My radiator is almost same size, so I can't figure out where you are finding all that room.
I see the count moving, it is nice to also have some occasional participation.
To try and answer your question without pics since the fitting of the parts hasn't started yet. Should have them by the end of the week. Also trying to keep the trimming of the sheet metal strategically placed and to a minimum since the Zuk had a complete paint job at the start of the build.
Starting off by setting the motor to 6* helped free up quite a bit of room. Leaning the radiator in the opposite direction means you only need to clear the water pump to the fan.
Spent alot of time trying to find the thinest 2 row duel pass radiator and the shortest highest cfm fan. The radiator is 3in thick at the aluminum ends. The fan to be used is 16in, 3 1/8 tall and a cfm rating of 3000 at 2400 rpm. Remember the fan sets against the radiator fins that gives you 1/4in more room.
To make matters worse there neede to be an A/C condensor. Shopped for the thinnest hotrod condensor to fit in the remaining space. Ended up with 12 x 20 x 3/4 thick condensor.
Had to trim the hood hold down sheet metal away, which freed up an inch. There are also 2 up rite support arms that hold the upper and lower front cowls together. These 2 supports are also slanted with more room towards the bottom. The condensor will be place at the lowest point of the rad meaning it doesnt go that far up the supports, maybe 2in. May even beable to get a 5in fan as a pusher if need. There is room in back of the new front crossmember. You also have to remember the frame was streched 8in in the front which leaves a pocket between the front bumper to the radiator, the engine compartment is stock length.
The 2 support arms will also be trimmed to fit the condensor. This freed up about an inch, now that the motor isn't tied in yet still have a 1/2in that it can be moved back.
Havent got all the physical parts yet but it looks like it all should fit. Using the carboard template really helped visualize how to come up with all the 1/4, 1/2 and inch room needed to workout the issues along with creative shopping.
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Finding a higher capacity radiator and fan took some research for mine and I don't have the fitment issues that you do. I may add RunCool Vents later. My Sidekick gets warm moving slowly on hot Texas days.
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Thanks for the info. I hope not to have a problem with this setup it is suppose to work for beefed up sbc motors. The (2) large holes were put in the front crossmember to try and help air flow. Also plan on popping (4) 3in holes in the front bumper to help.
Going to make side radiator mounting brackets to try and keep the radiator as open as posible. Use to have to use water wetter to bring the temp down on the Boss Hoss bikes and mess with cooling restrictor washers instead of a thermostat.
Hate to have to add a pusher fan but there should be enough room between the front bumper and the condensor for a 7in fan.
Terry
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Got the radiator, fan and a/c condensor in place. Looks like there is alittle more then a 1/2in clearence to the water pump. Need to get the belts in place to check for clearence.
Going to trim the cowl support brackets at the lower area for abit extra clearence when driving, dont want any unwanted rubbing at this point.
The custom brackets for everthing will need to be made. Plan on making the A/C lines since they will need to fit this application and not look like ####. Have never made A/C lines up so that should be an interesting learning curve. This means posting updates will be much slower until the work is done.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rad%20and%20Fan.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rad%20and%20Fan.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Condensor.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Condensor.jpg.html)
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Thought I would share this info about the trans.
Still waiting on the trans been 6 months and lost 3 months with the last guy. This situation is coming to a head tomorrow.
They told me it would be tested Friday April 15, after I started a disbute for charges last week. If they don't come through the dispute will process and go to small claim to get back the money for the parts that were dropped off.
If this doesn't workout may go with a manual trans, this way I can do it myself.
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I love this build but a little to intense for me as I want my V6 swap done now. As its a DD I understand that time, money, space is always an issue with anybody, but if you got the space and time I would too. Great fab work and build
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Tan Zuk is doing it the right way as many us of wished we could, and his work is amazing, but drive train swaps generally have issues that shouldn't just pop up.
Thought I would share this info about the trans.
Still waiting on the trans been 6 months and lost 3 months with the last guy. This situation is coming to a head tomorrow.
They told me it would be tested Friday April 15, after I started a disbute for charges last week. If they don't come through the dispute will process and go to small claim to get back the money for the parts that were dropped off.
If this doesn't workout may go with a manual trans, this way I can do it myself.
You know I rebuilt an automatic transmission once. Used it for two years and told the buyer that I used it longer than any warranty would have covered, so it was a good transmission and he never came back with a complaint.
But you are right manual transmissions are easier to rebuild.
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I love this build but a little to intense for me as I want my V6 swap done now. As its a DD I understand that time, money, space is always an issue with anybody, but if you got the space and time I would too. Great fab work and build
Yes, can understand the urgency to getting the DD road worthy as soon as posible. I have another 87 TT Zuk that is a DD which seems to demand things be done to it at the worst of times. There is one down side to urgecy there are generly things that get over looked, which shows its ugly head shortly after completing the work unfortunately.
Now that I'm over 60 with issues the need to (modify) my DD's have come to a hault, thats why I have projects now. Took many years to finally put together the shop I tinker in. There is a sacrifice having a larger shop though, needed to make a living space where I reside. This is kind of like travel trailer living, which took time to get use to. Just didn't have the cash flow to have 2 places and be able to do the bucket list builds I'd like to complete.
Good luck with your motor swap and appreciate the time you spend following my thread, hope you get something out of my posts on my swap. Wish there was a less time consuming way to do this process. The problem that takes the longest for me is coming up with solutions to finding room to fit everything properly.
Terry
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Tan Zuk is doing it the right way as many us of wished we could, and his work is amazing, but drive train swaps generally have issues that shouldn't just pop up.
Thanks BRD HNTR , this is a process that needs to be followed or you will find yourself doing things over which takes even longer. It is kind of like playing Chess and you better be atleat 10 step a head or your asking for problems.
You know I rebuilt an automatic transmission once. Used it for two years and told the buyer that I used it longer than any warranty would have covered, so it was a good transmission and he never came back with a complaint.
But you are right manual transmissions are easier to rebuild.
Didn't know you rebuilt your auto trans, for some reason that doesn't surprise me. Ha Ha
I just don't feel comfortable messing with them.
The good news is the trans is on the dyno and has tested good Today. I will be going down to see it run on the dyno in the AM Tomorrow.
Just seems a real issue trying to get things done in these specialty shop these days, no matter how understanding you try and be with them. The dog ate my home work excuse can only work for so long particularly when the excuses are on the 2nd loop cycle. Unfortunately using the Credit Card dispute seems the only way to finally persuade a vender to finish a job.
Terry
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You know I rebuilt an automatic transmission once. Used it for two years and told the buyer that I used it longer than any warranty would have covered, so it was a good transmission and he never came back with a complaint.
But you are right manual transmissions are easier to rebuild.
Didn't know you rebuilt your auto trans, for some reason that doesn't surprise me. Ha Ha
I just don't feel comfortable messing with them.
Terry
Many years ago I rebuilt a TH350 for the Blazer pig that I thought was going to make a family go anywhere rig. Too big, too wide, too UNDER POWERED, and too good to trash.
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I was never a big fan of the Blazer, seemed the 4.3 was way under powered and IIRC they were quite the gas hog.
Glad to see you got something now that suits your needs.
T
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Went to see the dyno test being performed on the highly modified v6 700r4. Im not an expert on auto trans but it seemed to shift fine, no stange noises or leaks and all the pressurer cheched good when going through the gears.
They also popped the pan off to point out the newer upgaded pieces that were visible. Spent time going over everything including the electric/vacuum lockup converter switch hookup, TV cable, electric fan trans cooler and fluids. It is a shame that the process ended up going the way it did, since they are good people and seem to put out a good product.
Dyno Test
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Dyno%20Test.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Dyno%20Test.jpg.html)
Upgaded torque converter:
Consisting of the the origanal pontiac 1/2 shell that bolts to the flywheel and mated to a back 1/2 shell form a rwd gm. The internals were also modified to except the lager upgraded mainshaft.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Torque%20Converter.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Torque%20Converter.jpg.html)
Upgrade Mainhaft
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Ugrade%20Shaft.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Ugrade%20Shaft.jpg.html)
Valve Body with electric lockup for converter
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Valve%20Body.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Valve%20Body.jpg.html)
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Started on some of the Radiator mods. These are the lower rad locators and isolators which are Zuk leaf spring bushings. This will be welded in place as illustrated, then the frame brackets will be welded in place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010005.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010005.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010006.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010006.jpg.html)
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Started doing some strategic trimming of the body. This is to make the rad, fan and condensor have enough wiggle room not to rub on anything when the Zuk is being used.
1st piece was the cowl upper and lower supports. These seem very beefy so a little trim on both sides didnt seem to affect anything.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010001.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010001.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010002.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010002.jpg.html)
Now it is time to hope for the best and cut the lower cowl inner lip away.
This was the layout line
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010007.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010007.jpg.html)
Finsh cut and blend
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010008.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010008.jpg.html)
Managed to get 3/4 total clearence berween the body to condensor after removing the lower cowl lip.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010011.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010011.jpg.html)
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Since the other timming seemed to go well. Really didn.t like the large gap between the rad and body. Cut the 90 degree bend up that was keeping the rad gap so large.
Previous posted before timming pic
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rad%20and%20Fan.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rad%20and%20Fan.jpg.html)
Probably call this good
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010014.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010014.jpg.html)
And picked up a bit more room
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010013.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010013.jpg.html)
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Got the lower radiator locator support brackets made and welded in place. Was not looking forward to installing these brackets. These were a real challange coming up with an idea and even tougher to get installed and weld.
With the radiator mounted in the new locator brackets with the radiator set at 6 degrees. Ended up with 1in clearence between the fan and radiator.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230019.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230019.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230020.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230020.jpg.html)
Got the aluminum radiator locator bosses welded in place. The A/C condensor aluminum brackets are finished and need to be welded in place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230024.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230024.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230025.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230025.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230026.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230026.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230027.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4230027.jpg.html)
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Was getting ready to post some pics when the camera hit the floor. So its dead just got another used one off ebay for 22.00. Can't see spending 500 bucks on a new one since they tend to get damaged by me. Anyway the new used camera will be here Sat.
T
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Got my 22.00 camera in today, looks like it is working properly.
Took quite a bit of time coming up with the new mounting brackets for the front bumper. Looks like I got ahead the process, this is why I stress thinking atleast 10 steps in advance before making things perminent. The old mounts were taking up all the room preventing space to route the A/C and powersteering hoses. No dout about it these mounts need to go.
This problem was appearent when the radiator and condensor were installed and started running mock up lines. Really tryed to work around this issue but it just wasn't going to happen. Now to come up with some new mounting brackets that would be completely out of the way. Got to say this had me thinking of a solution for a couple of days, there really isn't much space left and what ever was to be done was going to be a PITA to accomplish.
Here was the solution, which ended up needing some creative welding and drill holes solutions. The end result was a net gain of 3in after trimming the excess bumper material away.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20FB%20bracket%20.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20FB%20bracket%20.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20FB%20bracket%20.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20FB%20bracket%20.jpg.html)
Needed to do some creative drilling, since the drill didn't fit in the tight space that needed to be drilled. The new bumper brackets were used as a drill jig for proper placement holes to be drilled in the bumper. Noticed the old mounts were used to get the new mounts set in the correct position, then were removed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Drill%20Extension.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Drill%20Extension.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20FB%20bracket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20FB%20bracket.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20FB%20bracket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20FB%20bracket.jpg.html)
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Since the front bumper is being worked on again needed, figuered might as well get the rest of the cutting for the mods done.
The 4 air vents for radiator air flow. Looks like there is going to be enough room for an 8in fan in front of the condensor, which was ordered today.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Vents.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Vents.jpg.html)
Made some aluminum rings to help the appearence of the holes.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Vents.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Vents.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Vents.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Vents.jpg.html)
Found a spot for the P/S cooler, looks like it will fit on top of the front crossmember. Of course the bumper needs to have some of the lower plate removed. There is a plus side to all this cutting, the bumper seems to be getting lighter.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20Vents.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20Vents.jpg.html)
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Your rig gets more impressive with every post. I need to go back and read your bumper build posts again. I will hopefully have time to work on mine this summer.
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Your rig gets more impressive with every post. I need to go back and read your bumper build posts again. I will hopefully have time to work on mine this summer.
Thank Ridjobradi, Just trying to give all the parts a nice room new home.
Havent looked to see if those bumper build pics are still on this thread since the last crash. I have another thread if you need the info, just let me know and I will post a link.
Terry
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I am following the other thread also. Do you have a hot rod thread also, or just working on the Zuk for now?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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I am following the other thread also. Do you have a hot rod thread also, or just working on the Zuk for now?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
No build thread on the Willys, never even thought about it. Have tons of pics though. If and when the Zuk on 38's ever gets done thats when I will get back to work on it.
Maybe I will start a thread on the Willys but that takes up as much time as the build in most causes.
Again thanks for the participation and taking the time to follow.
Terry
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I like the concept of the aluminum rings around the air holes, how are they attached. when I built my bumper I made four holes for air flow and covered with extruded stainless so sticks wouldn't go through the rad
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I like the concept of the aluminum rings around the air holes, how are they attached. when I built my bumper I made four holes for air flow and covered with extruded stainless so sticks wouldn't go through the rad
Good Question.
There were (4) #8 32 SS set screws 1 1/4 long used to hold the ring to the bumper and secure the SS mesh on the backside using washers and nylock nuts. Since the rings were only 1/4 in thick, could only get 6 full turns on the set screws. This should be more then enough to hold everthing in place. Will also use some lock tite on the threaded end of the set screw going into the ring.
Here was the process for drilling and tapping a blind hole.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4290003.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4290003.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4290004.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P4290004.jpg.html)
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Got the bumper all finished up. Used Por15 to touched up the bare metal from cutting unwanted material. Luckly the cuts were on the bottom or backside so the black Por15 will not be seen.
Had a 2nd go around with the modified P/S pump. Needed to take abit more off the backside to get the pulley aligned. Noticed that the pulley didn't go on square. The choices were to order a new one and possibly have the same outcome or resleeve the pulley. Went with the resleeve, seemed to work well and made the sleeve abit longer to make it a flush mount with the shaft since the pulley needed to be installed deeper.
Made some brackets for the powersteering cooler to mount to the front crossmember. Also ordered an 8in fan as a pusher in front of the A/C condensor. When it came it looked like there was enough room on the condensor for another, so the 2nd one was ordered.
The 16in fan has 3100 cfm and the (2) 8in fans have a combined cfm of 1500. All (3) fans will be on a thermal fan switch and the 16in will also activate with the A/C.
It all fits in back of the front bumper with room to spare.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P5090018.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P5090018.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Fans%20PS%20Cooller.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Fans%20PS%20Cooller.jpg.html)
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cool more progress.... I'm hoping that I don't need to add fans for cooling
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cool more progress.... I'm hoping that I don't need to add fans for cooling
Not sure the extra fans are needed. Figured as long as I'm working on making everything fit now, it would be a good use of space. Would really hate to do it when it is all finished. Plus the Florida heat is a killer in the summer and I really want to run the A/C.
T
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Working on the last piece of the puzzle for fitment. The foward induction throttle body tube needs to clear the firewall. Looks like a few things are going to need relocating.
This tube is the toughest part of the install. There were several write ups on how to cut down the S/C housing. Nothing on how to do the transition from tube to the unusual shape of the back opening on the S/C housing. (Seems this info is top secrete).
Been thinking about a solution since starting this transplant, think I have something that will make a nice uniformed flow for all the mating parts. Have had to redo a few things that weren't working out and do some brainstorming. May take another week to complete if all goes well and will post a few pics.
BTW: I don't weld aluminum, so I use the guy up the street and it is very costly getting all these pieces glued together. With that said it was easier and cheaper to pay him then buy a Tig welder and learn how to weld aluminum. Something to keep in mind when planning your next mod.
T
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Well, I wasn't going to post these for awhile, feel like I might be jumping the gun since the process isn't completed. Just wanted to show the progress on the tube and S/C housing.
After trying several different methods. The ones that produced results was using small vice grips and bending small portions at a time for the desired effect. The 2nd method was to cut sections of the tube away and weld longer sections to get the shape needed.
The bottom plugs needed to be removed and made deeper. This left a 1/4in pocket for the weld to hold the plugs in more securely.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/SC%20Rework%20Plugs.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/SC%20Rework%20Plugs.jpg.html)
Finish cut the face of the S/C housing and getting ready to drill and tap the plugged holes again. There will be 1/4-20 studs used to hold the transition plate in place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Flycut%20Housing.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Flycut%20Housing.jpg.html)
Transition top plate is mounted. This plate will be ported to match the S/C housing on one side and the induction tube on the other side. The tube had a compund cut at 17 degrees to match the S/C housing mod and a 30 degree kick out for the throttle body end. Soory those pics were lost in the hard drive crash.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Top%20Plate.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Top%20Plate.jpg.html)
Here is the 3in J bend aluminum induction tube mod matched to the S/C housing. The pics show the process.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tube%20Extenson.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tube%20Extenson.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Inner%20Tube%20Mod.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Inner%20Tube%20Mod.jpg.html)
Here is a larger pic. Kinda looks like a large mouth bass Ha Ha
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Inner%20Tube.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Inner%20Tube.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Staight%20Tube.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Staight%20Tube.jpg.html)
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Got the work completed on the S/C housing and transition plate, ready to have the induction tube welded in place. Since the motor is not mounted yet, there is better than an inch clearence between the water pump and fan. Can always more the motor forward a 1/2in if need be.
Here was what the S/C housing looked like before the porting was done. The raised area in the center was filled in to cover a low spot for the EGR drain off. The EGR will be eliminated.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Welded%20Housing.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Welded%20Housing.jpg.html)
Here is the finished port work to the inside of the housing. Notice the induction cavity is more uniformed now. This made it easier to port match the transition plate.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Ported%20Housing.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Ported%20Housing.jpg.html)
The transition plate was roughed out then port matched to the S/C housing 1st. Finshed blending off the plate to the induction tube. This took a very long time to do, looks like it should work.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Transition%20Plate%20Port%20Match.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Transition%20Plate%20Port%20Match.jpg.html)
BTW The transition plate was left larger so it could be flycut after welding. It will be trimmed down to match the housing later. There will also be (4) 1/4-20 studs holding the plate in place.
T
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Not a very productive day unfortunately, did manage to get a few things done after the welder miss hap. Dropped the induction tube and the transition plate to get welded up. Made a welding fixture using S/C housing and a couple of 1 1/4 blocks to get the tube in proper position before welding.
Wanted to stay and hold the tube in position for a tack weld to verify before welding. He told me he doesn't use anyone for holding, so off I went. Checked in the next morning and the tube didn't look like it was in position and he had already welded the inside. Well, he decided not to use the fixture and just do it his way. Now he is very angry at me (go figure) and the plate and tube are unusable.
So without arguing about it, as usual I cut my loses and order more material and make the parts over again. Fortunately found a really good welder. He welds up Riva water craft turbo feed tubes which is basically the same thick to thin welding that is needed for this job. He also keeps you there for the final ok on the welds.
Will keep you posted on how the new parts turn out the 2nd time around.
T
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Had some time before the new induction tube gets here. Decided to try and remove the old tube from the old transition plate that got welded incorrectly. To my surprise I was able to machine it off without getting hurt. Now I could use the old tube to check positing while waiting on the new one.
To start the motor was moved forward a 1/2in for the thickness of the transition plate. Of course there were a few things needed relocating on the firewall. The P/S air box vent tube will need to be trimmed down for clearence as well.
Made a new transition plate and have it ported to the S/C housing cavity. Will port the other side of the plate to match the new tube, once it is cut down and reshaped. Decide to make a new TB plate instead of using the piece that was cut off.
This pic is taken with me on a latter holding the TB in position with one hand and snapping the pic with the other. Hoping that none of the pieces would fall since nothing is welded yet.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TB%20Top%20%20View.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TB%20Top%20%20View.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Relocating%20Parts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Relocating%20Parts.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TB%20Plate.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/TB%20Plate.jpg.html)
Been thinking about how to tackle making the headers, without making them from scratch. There was a small obsticle the drivers side exhaust manifold was cast and the passenger side was steel pipe. Cast pipe is not what you want as a starting point for headers. As mentioned the P/S was steel, the plan was to cut it down an flip it to see how it looked on the D/S. Seems like a good compromise. Yep now I need one for the P/S, went to ebay and got one for 35.00 shipped.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Manifold%20Cut%20Down.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Manifold%20Cut%20Down.jpg.html)
Probably make a log tube header, this will keep the heat away from the starter. It will also be easier to remove the starter without removing the header. Plan on wrapping the headers to keep the heat down.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header.jpg.html)
T
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Welders have a habit of living up to their fussy stereotype. The specialty welders we have are really good it at, but they are also really good at what they do.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Welders have a habit of living up to their fussy stereotype. The specialty welders we have are really good it at, but they are also really good at what they do.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Just let the previous welder get away with too much of his nonsense for too many years. He was also just up the street so it was very convent to use. He is just too set in his ways and never makes a mistake.
Well when I went up to check to see how he was doing. I could see from a couple of feet away that the tube was not where it should have been. I asked him if he used the positioning fixture to tack it with of coarse he said yes. So, I told him to stop welding so I could chexk it in the fixture and it was out 25 degrees.
Hopefully this new guy can get the job done 1st time around. Getting tired of making these PITA expensive pieces over.
Thanks for the post Ridjobradi
BTW Has anyone heard from BRD HUNTR lately haven't seen any posting on the board for awhile?
Terry
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Some people are that way.....they think they are helping but in the long run it cost time and money. Ya that's weird I haven't seen him on hear lately either I hope everything is OK or he is busy building drones vehicle.
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Some people are that way.....they think they are helping but in the long run it cost time and money. Ya that's weird I haven't seen him on hear lately either I hope everything is OK or he is busy building drones vehicle.
Thanks for the reply beagle..t. Hope things are well with him also. I looked through the Zikiworld posting sections last night and didn't see anything recent. I may send him a PM to see if he responds.
Keep up the good work on your transplant.
Terry
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Welders have a habit of living up to their fussy stereotype. The specialty welders we have are really good it at, but they are also really good at what they do.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Just let the previous welder get away with too much of his nonsense for too many years. He was also just up the street so it was very convent to use. He is just too set in his ways and never makes a mistake.
Well when I went up to check to see how he was doing. I could see from a couple of feet away that the tube was not where it should have been. I asked him if he used the positioning fixture to tack it with of coarse he said yes. So, I told him to stop welding so I could chexk it in the fixture and it was out 25 degrees.
Hopefully this new guy can get the job done 1st time around. Getting tired of making these PITA expensive pieces over.
Thanks for the post Ridjobradi
BTW Has anyone heard from BRD HUNTR lately haven't seen any posting on the board for awhile?
Terry
I have been busy lately, not that I am getting anything done. I have been checking the board regularly, and always have to check your build. Your issues with getting something done right is why we find a way to do it ourselves. I am checking beagle's build also, but he is going to have to figure out how to post off his phone, the lack of photo's makes his progress look like mine.
I stopped working on projects last fall for hunting season, which for me runs from August through February, and then had Drone's wedding in Hawaii, and taking care of parents (both 93). Just starting to get things done again. We got an Aerio that hadn't seen an oil change for far too long that needs more than the head from Drone's race car.
Then I will get back to work. I have a transplant I have that I have been tinkering with that is similar to yours, and trying to get time to do some Automatic Transmission work in exchange for another project car that I have been wanting to build for years.
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Glad to see that you are still around BRD HNTR. Life tends to get in the way of the fun stuff.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Guess your ears were burning, glad to hear everything is ok.
I just chauk the problems with the build to just plain bad luck. Seems Murphy moved in and liked so much decided to stay. Believe it or not stuff like this just seems to happen as long as I can remember. It doesn't seem to be too particular when it arises or what it picks to be a problem. It is what it is but it is definately getting old.
Hawaii wedding congrads to the family! Haven't been there since the early 70's things must be really built up now. It was a mess back then to drive, learning all the Hawaiian street names took some doing. At least it is hard to get too lost since your on an island and the roads all seem to run in a circle.
Guess watching my new transplant sounds like it got the fire started in you again. Will be wanting to see whats on the agenda next. Just remember tie the motor in after fitting everything. I just moved mine forward a 1/2in (which was planned). Just make sure that straps are strong enough to hold the weight for an extended amount of time.
Anyways take care and thanks for checking in.
Terry
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Tan Zuk,
Your build is something I enjoy watching, because it is something that I would like to do. I had all these grand plans when I was working overseas, but didn't have any time at home. Now that I am working stateside and can be home more often, I have to choose what I spend my limited time and money on. The house and shop are coming first lately. The Sidekick still gets attention, but more and more time is devoted to maintenance instead of improvements.
All the tools have been getting fresh paint and lots of oil, because i am 2 blocks from the Gulf of Mexico. The shop / garage is in the process of new wiring and will be insulated and get AC soon. Then I can start using the machine tools without worrying about rust. The goal after the shop is a little further along, is to ht the '39 hard and heavy to get it driving.
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Tan Zuk,
Your build is something I enjoy watching, because it is something that I would like to do. I had all these grand plans when I was working overseas, but didn't have any time at home. Now that I am working stateside and can be home more often, I have to choose what I spend my limited time and money on. The house and shop are coming first lately. The Sidekick still gets attention, but more and more time is devoted to maintenance instead of improvements.
All the tools have been getting fresh paint and lots of oil, because i am 2 blocks from the Gulf of Mexico. The shop / garage is in the process of new wiring and will be insulated and get AC soon. Then I can start using the machine tools without worrying about rust. The goal after the shop is a little further along, is to ht the '39 hard and heavy to get it driving.
Thanks Ridjobradi glad to see you are enjoying the build.
I also am not that far away from the salty sea breeze of the ocean. It is starting to get really hot these days. Sweating on the machines and tools is a bad thing if they don't get wiped down. Lucky you will have an A/C shop to work in. I would not beable to afford to do anything if I had to pay for A/C at my shop.
I have a DD TT that always seems to need some TLC, guess it feels left out seeing all the new parts going on the big one. Have almost got rid of it a few times, just can't justify a new vehicle for as little I drive.
Hopefully the big one will be done sooner then later and will be like having a new car with A/C. When this ones done it is time to get back on the Willys. Just paid Hagerty the other day and they told me I have had it for 13 years now, what a shock that was.
Nice chatting with you, if you want you can always post a couple of pics of the shop in progress.
Terry
Not sure if I post the Willys motor running. Well here it is notice the date on the video.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/01%20Videos/th_Willys%20Engine%20%20Running%20.mp4) (http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/01%20Videos/Willys%20Engine%20%20Running%20.mp4)
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Tried out the new welder, adding the 1in splice extension to the induction tube. That seemed to work out ok, welds look uniformed with good penetration. Will beable to smooth the inside of the welds once the tube is cut down.
Lost these setup milling pic of the tube when the hard drive got dropped. Took some more to show how the compound angle was cut on the tube.
Welds
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1in%20Splice%20Welds.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1in%20Splice%20Welds.jpg.html)
Font view of milling compound angle
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20Milling%20Tube.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20Milling%20Tube.jpg.html)
Side view
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Milling%20Tube.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Milling%20Tube.jpg.html)
Side milling
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20Milling.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20Milling.jpg.html)
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Trying to work a deal on another hot rod addition to the shop. Been looking at it for about a year and a half now. The guy is finally at a realist number, trying to get all the info and videos sent to me since it is in Ohio, I know it is along trip. Will have to go in person for the final approval and hopefully my buddy and I can transport it to Florida without issue. Its Tornado season and we will be skirting some of Tornado Alley.
1936 Fiat Topolino, wanted one for over 40 years. There are a few things I haxe issue with, hopefully I can overlook them. Don't need anymore projects.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/FIAT.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/FIAT.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/FIAT%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/FIAT%202.jpg.html)
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cool looking ride... I sure wish I had the fab knowledge you have. awesome work
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Yes Beagle, that is a "cool looking ride"! I would cross the road, just to look in the window.
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I saw a similar Fiat several years ago in Austin. I was amazed at much motor (blown hemi) there was compared to the car. Very impressive if done right.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Well the Fiat didn't workout. There were 4 things that were an issue for me. The major one was it had no door glass and window jam area was filled in with metal. In Florida you need windows to roll up since it can rain at a drop of a hat. I also wouldn't feel comfortable leaving it open to get a bite to eat, I even lock up the DD so no one decides they like it more then me.
Got all the pieces made for the induction tube again. Went to the 2nd welder to have the tube welded to the plate. Cant believe this guy also refused to use the positioning blocks to tack the tube in position. He put his marker lines on the piece and told me he doesn't like people telling him how to do his job.
So, I picked my parts up and went to another guy I use to use 20 years ago, forgot all about him and he even remembered who I was. He had no problem using the blocks, what a relief. They will tack it, then call me to ok the position then weld it in place. Hoping for good results this time.
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I hope the new/old guy works out well.
Too bad about the Fiat, but something else better will happen because of it. I need to figure out how all the garnish goes back into my coupe.
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I hope the new/old guy works out well.
I need to figure out how all the garnish goes back into my coupe.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Yes, me too.
Took the Willys apart about 13 years ago. Im sure there are going to be quite a few things I'm going to have some troubles remembering how things fit.
T
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The 3rd welder got the tube attached without a problem. I'm very happy that I can move on, still have a few more parts that need to be attached to the tube.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tube%20Welded.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tube%20Welded.jpg.html)
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looks like the guy can weld....looking good only a few things left :laugh:
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looks like the guy can weld....looking good only a few things left :laugh:
Yep definately getting closer to taking it apart after the fitting process is done.
Flip the frame over to weld the bottom side up.
Take the pieces off the motor for paint, new gaskets, seals and the new parts.
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Did some more work on the tube. Finshed machining the vacuum port. Also ported back the iweld penetration on the inside of the tube.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Machine%20Vacuum%20Port.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Machine%20Vacuum%20Port.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Stock%20Vacuum%20Port.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Stock%20Vacuum%20Port.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Ported%20Plate.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Ported%20Plate.jpg.html)
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Had a question about the effort envolved in the port matching and if it would make any difference. Just incase there were others wondering, here was my responce.
Have no clue if it makes any difference, since I had several different opinions. It has got to be better then that odd shape I started with when the S/C housing was cut down. Then just mating any shape to that. IMO
Most of the S/C inlets look some what like the transition plate with the tube attached in general shape.
The 2nd one was a much tighter fit to the opening. Learned from the 1st one how to bend the tube and add the longer piece on the top to make the shape. It took about 6 hours to do both sides of the plate this time.The housing was matched to the plate 1st and hoping I left enough material to match the tube side.
Made quite a few paper templates, used red layout die and a thin black marker to mimic the inner wall thickness boarder to blend to. This was my best method to get the irregular shapes needed for the plate. Oh and the tool used was a pencil air grinder and a 1/8 carbide straight bit, gloves, face mask, goggles and ear plugs. The aluminum burrs are like a million razor blades. And just to add a little icing to the cake it was 90 degrees.
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Got alittle side tracked last week. Decided to put a deposit down on the Fiat and haxe them bring it down. It was easier for me to do it that way then spen 34 hours on the road plus expenses.
They finally made a video, they never did get it out for a short drive as requested. Settled on a price and I told them if it didn't match the video description it would go back. They quickly got it down here rolled it off the trailor and it looked really good. The looks were the last on the list of priorities to check though.
Told him it needed to be started, driven up and down the street and inspected before the deal was done. Got ready to fire it and he says I hope the battery had enough charge to fire. Well, it didn't have enough juice to even get the fuel pump to work. Got a battery jumper box to solve the dead battery. Now the motor is being difficult to fire, remeber this is a blown motor and you just don't keep pumping the throttle because the gas will dump staight in to the oil oan.
After several minutes of pumping and cranking it finally fires. Motor sounded a little odd, thought maybe all the gas in the pan was causing the problem. Looked abit closer and the water pump pulley was bent about a half inch and was gouged very badly on the front face. Got in and tne tilt column handle wasn't working.
Now it is time to take it up and down the block, he says you will have to buy it to drive it, he just seemed in too big of a hurry to get this done (RED FLAG TIME). So with the list of issues getting longer and no test drive, I sent them packing.
I did finally get the front fan brackets made, its starting to get tough coming up with all these ideas on parts that need to be made daily. Scatching my head now, since the large one needs brackets next.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mounting%20Bolts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Mounting%20Bolts.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20Fan%20Brackets.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20Fan%20Brackets.jpg.html)
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It is good to see the progress on your rig. I like the pipe work and all the effort going into it. Custom machined bolts for the electric fan. That is really taking it custom. Then again, I would not surprise me if you had replaced the slotted brackets that come with the fans with some custom billet brackets.
I replaced my 16 inch fan with an 18 inch fan, but haven't made any more upgrades to my Sidekick. I have actually been at home every night for the last couple of weeks. I have spent the time organizing my garage and moving things between the garage and the storage unit. I stripped my 1915 Myers Machine Tool drill press down for a rebuild. It is going next to my Cataract lathe and my 1900 shaper. I will get back to the Sidekick soon.
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It is good to see the progress on your rig. I like the pipe work and all the effort going into it. Custom machined bolts for the electric fan. That is really taking it custom. Then again, I would not surprise me if you had replaced the slotted brackets that come with the fans with some custom billet brackets.
I thought about making the brackets from aluminum block. Just too expensive and too much waste for something that really never gets seen. Had several sheet metal computer shelves a buddy dropped off for free. Cut one shelf down into pieces for the brackets. From the people that have seen them, the comments are they look factory which is the look I was going for.
They will get a coat of POR15 and a top coat of paint to finish them off.
I replaced my 16 inch fan with an 18 inch fan, but haven't made any more upgrades to my Sidekick. I have actually at home every night for the last couple of weeks. I have spent the time organizing my garage and moving things between the garage and the storage building. I stripped my 1915 Myers Machine Tool drill press down for a rebuild. It is going next to my Cataract lathe and my 1900 shaper. I will get back to the Sidekick soon.
You can get an 18in fan in a sidekick, thats impressive. The 16 was about all I could get out of my radiator opening.
Sounds like you have quite a bit of work to do refurbishing your machines. Havent used a shaper since machine shop school. Good luck with them, needs some pics.
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Got tired of making fan brackets, pulled the motor,trans and t/c out to get the frame rail plates all smoothed and flatted out for all the new mounts.
Probably going to roll the front and rear axles and suspension out, then flip the frame over and finish weld and tidy up the bottom side of the frame. Don't like welding underside, with the axles and suspension removed the frame shouldn't have any twists in it for the remaining welds.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Rail%20Prep.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Rail%20Prep.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Rail%20Prep.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Rail%20Prep.jpg.html)
Front view of the frame
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20Frame.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20View%20Frame.jpg.html)
Get some questions about the Willys from time to time.
You will notice it at the (TOP LEFT) where it lives.
Started it up last week after letting it set for a year and it fired rite up.Got rid of the Grand Prix to make room for the new addition that didn't work out Since it didn't get a new stable buddy, decided to clean its shoes and park the L67 motor by it for some company now there is extra room.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Willys%20Home.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Willys%20Home.jpg.html)
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The 18 in fan was an experiment from Craigslist. Three fan housing was resting on the lower tank where it met the core. The top of shroud was a 1/2" above radiator core where the tank curved in. It was originally purchased for a Lincoln Town Car.
My previous fan was 16 inches and mounted to a custom aluminum shroud for a 5 liter Mustang. The 16 in fan died in a "water crossing", when I didn't turn it off in time. I got caught in the first of the big flash floods and had to make a decision to ford the water or abandon it on the road. I chose to ford the high water. The water wasn't flowing and I didn't have any problems getting through. I had put dielectric grease in all of my electrical fittings and done the other prep work for water crossings.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Since the lift was being used for the body and it was need to break the frame down, there was a situation. To beable to use the lift, decided to strap the frame to the lift under the body. Was alittle nervous trying it, quess the only thing that could happen would be the body fall off the lift and crumple it and the frame. Not too much to stress over, just had to pick the proper strapping points and hope for the best.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6200010.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6200010.jpg.html)
Rolled the complete front and rear axle assemblies out. Breaking down the frame this way is very quick. To assemble just roll the axles back in place and pop the bolts in.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6200012.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6200012.jpg.html)
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do you have a date that you would like this done???? I know with my build, I told the wife it would be a month to keep her quiet for awhile. Then I was hoping July long weekend which was sorta doable, now I know that i'm shooting for the beginning of hunting season :laugh: which is September 10th but hoping for sooner
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do you have a date that you would like this done???? I know with my build, I told the wife it would be a month to keep her quiet for awhile. Then I was hoping July long weekend which was sorta doable, now I know that i'm shooting for the beginning of hunting season :laugh: which is September 10th but hoping for sooner
Well let me tell you a little story about completion dates and the Poltergis Zuk.
To make a date like that, it would mean everthing I do would have to work out perfectly. Thought I was done 2 years ago and found that one the bellhousing alignment locators was out. This caused the clutch disc spline to bend, making the motor unusable until corrected.
Planned on taking the ungrateful POS Poltergis Zuk to the dump and crush it. After taking 5 months of taking it apart and rebuilding everthing in the drivetrain 3 times before stumbling on the problem.
Got talked into this swap, getting away from all the Samurai parts and using the bigger parts I hope solves all the unforeseen issue that were a problem previously.
I hope your wife is very understanding and let her know its all up to Murphy if you make your deadline.
Im hoping in about a year, just hope it goes smoother this time.
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i know what you mean.... I met BRD HNTR and we chatted abit before I had to depart, it was definitely not long enough to sit around and shoot the breeze. Best thing is that he's only a couple hrs away, and just before I leave his house he goes and says (well if you every get bored of the 2.0 ltr power you could do this) and he opens the hood (damn you BRD HNTR) :laugh: and then the madness began.
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One can tell how much stress you were under by the size of the straps you have holding the frame up. Iit appears that they are strong enough, 1 1/2"?
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One can tell how much stress you were under by the size of the straps you have holding the frame up. Iit appears that they are strong enough, 1 1/2"?
They must look thicker in the pic. They were just the standard 500lbs straps.
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Finally got the frame ready for the motor, trans and t-case mounts. Was abit surprized how heavy the fame has gotten. Since I always work alone flipping it over took quite awhile using a cherry picker. Seemed it was even harder flipping it rite side up, good thing there were no mishaps through the flipping process.
Lifted the frame up with the hoist again and rolled the axles back under and secured them. Was happy the way this double hoist lift worked out.
Decided to pickup another Toy t-case. Now I can regear when ever I get board and leave the other connected for mockup.
Working on the motor mounts with the motor on the floor. Alot more room which was great, since the D/S mount was a real PITA to come up with some ideas. Should have some pics of the mounts for the motor tomorrow, if they work out.
Going to start doing some glass work on the Willys body on the weekends. Ist getting extremely hot and humid though hopefully I can make some progress. Going to do some cheating, found some 2'x2' 1/8inch sheets which should speed things up.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6300013.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6300013.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6300014.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6300014.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6300015.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P6300015.jpg.html)
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Here is what the driverside motor mount ended up looking like, after spending most of yesterday making cardboard templates.
The challenges were:
Bolt locations were in the way of support brackets.
A/C work around
Steering Box bolt locations
Motor Mount needed to be angled up 15* do to low motor mout bolt locations.
Still have some welding to finish up, didn't want to do too much welding at one time.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7010020.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7010020.jpg.html)
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Nice work- on both the motor mounts and the, um, "composite" AC mount :P
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Nice work- on both the motor mounts and the, um, "composite" AC mount :P
Thanks, the A/C mount is still the wood mockup. Since the block of aluminum needed for that bracket is over 100.00. It will be made last incase there happens to be an unforeseen fitment issue with something.
There is alot of stuff crammed in on the driverside.
Just hoping the motor mounts are going to work out, since they are being made with the motor on the floor. Had a rough idea where they need to be, the mounts are taking a much different shape then 1st anticipated. They should be much stronger this way and transfer the stress through the entire mount.
Terry
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It is a good looking mount. Hopefully it fits
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Heres the passenger side motor mount. There were not so many obsticles to have to work around. However the odd shaped mounting bolt pattern lead to a redesign for strength. The center bracket is now boxed to spread the load to the stretched out mounting points.
Still have a little bit of welding left, may also need to pocket out a weld for bolt head clearence. Thinking about dropping the motor, trans and t-case back in tomorrow. Need to see how things worked outs since the mounts were made on the floor.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20MM%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20MM%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20MM%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20MM%202.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20MM%203.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20MM%203.jpg.html)
T
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Got the motor fitted back in the frame with the new motor mounts.
Reminder:
Since I was working on the mounts with the motor on the floor, decided it might be a good idea to get a reference dimension. Seem to have gotten lucky finally, the mounts are very close to where they were roughly figured.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7070026.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7070026.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/MM%20In%20Frame.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/MM%20In%20Frame.jpg.html)
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It is getting tight in there. Looks like you are going to have fun with the new exhaust.
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What BRD HNTR said.
I hope I get an opportunity to see this rig at some point.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
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Wow guys whats with all the tight fit with the headers?
Maybe just a bad camera angle.
My 1st thought was look at all the room there is for the headers.
Like they say:
If it were easy the Chinese would be doing it.
May just go with a simple log header. Just have to see how ambitious I feel after making all the mounts.
Here is a crude example of my thinking for a log header.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Header.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Header.jpg.html)
Here is a better pic of a log header
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/2_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/2_1.jpg.html)
If ambitious maybe this one
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/3_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/3_1.jpg.html)
Terry
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I like the ambitious one looks like another challenge
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I like the ambitious one looks like another challenge
beagle, that sounds like peer pressure to me. Ha Ha
I like the 2nd one also, just don't know if I want to spend that mich time on headers. Really wanting to finish this project up sooner then later.
T
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You may have to get something close and modify it. Then you can think bigger.
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You may have to get something close and modify it. Then you can think bigger.
Well, that was the thought af 1st. There really isn't much of a selection to pick from with this motor.
The ones that may work with alot of cutting are over 600.00. Personally I have a hard time justifying cutting up a 600.00 set of headers. Then pay to recoat them for another 300.00 and may have more time envolved in the end.
Plan 2 is to use 2 of the passenger side exhaust manifolds and flip one for the drivers side. This is what was pictured in the motor mount pic.
Reason for using the same side manifold is the drivers side was cast and the passenger side is steel tube with a good thick flange to start off with.
Cost of the 2nd manifold was 25.00 and some assorted pipe to confiqure what ever is made is not to pricey.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
T
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Got the motor mount frame ears made and tacked into place. Going to pull the motor, trans and t-case tomorrow to finish weld the ears.
Probably going to need to make a welding fixture to hold the ears in place. Going to add a brace to each ear, for a bit more reassurand the ears will stay in position under load.
Did I forget to mention it is really getting hot down here.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7090030.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7090030.jpg.html)
T
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nice motor mounts... with the headers it all depends on time frame on when you want it to be completed if your not in a rush :laugh: :laugh: then do it proper but in a rush do what's practical
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I don't know if you are on the Atlantic side or the Gulf side. The heat / humidity on the Gulf Coast is getting up there.
I installed a fan in the rear gable of my garage today. It is so much more comfortable, now that it is pulling fresh air in throughout the front and exhausting it through the rear.
How do you keep your machines in good condition with the salt and humidity?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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I don't know if you are on the Atlantic side or the Gulf side. The heat / humidity on the Gulf Coast is getting up there.
I installed a fan in the rear gable of my garage today. It is so much more comfortable, now that it is pulling fresh air in throughout the front and exhausting it through the rear.
How do you keep your machines in good condition with the salt and humidity?
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Im on the Atlantic side of Fl. The humidity and the heat is just getting to be overwhelming from noon to 5PM. Gets even worse after the usual afternoon showers. Getting older and needing glasses for everything seems to add to it.
As far as the machines particularly this year I wipe the machines down with PB Blaster after using it. About every couple of months I use green Scotch Brite with PB Blaster along with some Mothers metal polish with Scotch Brite again to keep the dark spots under control. Seems to keep the eliments at bay.
The shop faces North to South with 2 bay doors facing North so there isn't any cross ventilation coming in. The 2 side windows that set to the east side are usless since there is a building about 2 feet from mine.
I use 2 big pedestal fans and a 36in drum fan to try and keep air circulating. I find if the fan is not blowing directly on me they really don't help much.
I thought that I would mention I use Ospho on the bare metal parts that are being made for the Zuk and the frame. This helps alot to keep the parts from rusting with all the sweat on them.
Thanks for asking Terry
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nice motor mounts... with the headers it all depends on time frame on when you want it to be completed if your not in a rush :laugh: :laugh: then do it proper but in a rush do what's practical
beagle, your starting to sound like a nagging wife
(when are you going to be done and I dont like that)
A little history lesson on header types.
The Log header or Lakeside header has been around for many years. Usually used in hot rod applications where there is not alot of extra room for the more conventional type.
They are considered a proper header and they are absolutly not by any means a substandard way to make headers. There are many different versions and style. They do however have the same thing in common and that is the exhaust bank is all welder to a cental tube.
Hope I explained that better and here is a pic of a more refined version instead of the offroad version you don't seem to care for.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Header_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Header_1.jpg.html)
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Sweet log header. Beagle is right, and I like your proper jobs, which is where I start, but end up doing whats practical.
Your mounts make me wonder how mine have been holding up.
Guess I should go to Florida with the wife and kids at end of month and get some guidance.
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Sweet log header. Beagle is right, and I like your proper jobs, which is where I start, but end up doing whats practical.
Your mounts make me wonder how mine have been holding up.
Guess I should go to Florida with the wife and kids at end of month and get some guidance.
Well, I guess there is a difference of opinion what is proper for the header design.
Posting different header options was a mistake on my part, wasn't looking for anyones opinions. In the future I will just post the completed parts, which keeps things simple.
T
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sorry I offended you I didn't mean to in anyway.... I will watch your build but will keep my advice or comments to myself. keep up the beautiful work and can wait till it is done
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sorry I offended you I didn't mean to in anyway.... I will watch your build but will keep my advice or comments to myself. keep up the beautiful work and can wait till it is done
X2. (Maybe its a Northwest thing.)
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No Worries Guys ;D
I spend about a year researching parts that will be needed for a build that are filled away until needed. To try and keep myself from getting in a jam, I try to have several different parts and ideas to keep things moving.
Had about 15 different headers to try and work from. The (2) I posted looked like the only options with the space provided. New that I didn't want the more conventional tubes running low next to the starter, making it difficult to pull the starter without removing the header. That kind of heat also kills starters. Still havent made up my mind yet, with the frame motor mount ears in and the new trans mount location. Things are already changing on the exhaust and headers.
So, I appreciate your interest in me turning out a quality part. You just have to remember Ive spent a bunch of time going through all the options. I also have the vehicle in front of me which helps with my decision making.
No Hard Feelings
Terry
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Started on the removable trans high clearce crossmember, since the stock trans crossmember was removed. There was 1/4in plate added previously to the inside and outside frame rails on both the drive and pass side. To help support the weld in bungs through the frame, for the trans crossmember and the horse collar t-case mounts.
For some reason my D/S front spring has had a lean to it since the 1st build. Couldn't really get a good drivetrain angle with it like that, so it was time to correct the problem.. Been thinking what to do about this issue for 2 years now. Instead of messing with that spring, I took a chance and orded another new spring from Rubicon.
Got the new one installed and finally decide to put the 4* shims in as well. This took care of the lean and the shims brought the ride height back in. That was a releaf to get that all sorted out. Think I got a bad spring from Rubicon when they were going through their restructuring.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20degree%20Shim.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20degree%20Shim.jpg.html)
While I was waiting on the spring, decided to start prepping the new centered Toy rear axle.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20and%20Rear%20Axles.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Front%20and%20Rear%20Axles.jpg.html)
Back to the trans crossmember. Took a while to come up with something that was going to work around the front driveshaft and exhaust. Leaving enough clearence around everything for the trans to move around on the poly mount.
Here is the passengerside being worked on, notice the (4) offset through holes in the 1/4in plate for the 1/2in bolt bungs. This should hold the crossmember in place and give back the added support from the missing stock crossmember.
Top
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Trans%20Crossmember.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Trans%20Crossmember.jpg.html)
Bottom
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Bottom%20Trans%20Crossmember.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Bottom%20Trans%20Crossmember.jpg.html)
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How is the build coming along? I have slowed down with the heat, but I need to get back at it.
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How is the build coming along? I have slowed down with the heat, but I need to get back at it.
The heat is horrible, just take alot of breaks so what little patients I still have hopefully stick around.
Completed the high clearence trans crossmember. Pulled the Toy offset rear axle assembly to exchange for a new TG Toy centered rear axle assembly. Got all the hardware welded on, put a coat of Osho rust inhibitor etching on. Put a coat of POR15 and will throw a top coat of paint to finish it up.
The DD has been complaining alot lately. To avoid buying a new car just decided to stick a bunch of the parts that were on the big one to try and make it happy. Working on retro fitting all the new A/C parts over and hopefully have a working A/C again.
There are also a bunch of small things that need attention as well. Hopefully it will be happy again for awhile.
T
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Being on the gulf coast myself, I understand the heat issue. Just walking into my shop sets me soaking through my clothes. I have been in eastern Washington and Oregon a lot lately and have been enjoying the low humidity.
If you ever need some extra hands for the weekend, I would be happy to head that way. I haven't been to Florida yet.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Being on the gulf coast myself, I understand the heat issue. Just walking into my shop sets me soaking through my clothes. I have been in eastern Washington and Oregon a lot lately and have been enjoying the low humidity.
If you ever need some extra hands for the weekend, I would be happy to head that way. I haven't been to Florida yet.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Yep, your description of the heat in your shop sounds like mine. The addition of the humidity is what really wears a person out.
Appreciate the offer about the helping hand. Probably wouldn't know what to do with the help since I have always worked alone.
I tell you what, when the big one is getting ready for some shake down runs. I will let you know if you would like to take a look at what this thing looks like in person.
Terry
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Some Pics
Prepping the new TG Toy rear axle for installation.
Thought the Toy axle was centered, gues thats what I get for thinking. Any way it has a 1 inch offset to the passenger side. Shouldn't be a real issue, don't think I had the room to move everything over an inch to the P/S anyway.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010020.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010020.jpg.html)
Here are a few shots of the high clearence trans mount.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010018.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010018.jpg.html)
(http://[url=http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010017.jpg]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010017.jpg[/url]) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010017.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P9060023.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P9060023.jpg.html)
Here is the assembly hanging in the frame with mounts.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010019.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010019.jpg.html)
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I am definitely interested seeing it when completed.
I was hoping to make the next Dixie Rod Run in Mississippi, but I am far from finished with the coupe.
Sent from my SM-T330NU using Tapatalk
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Here is what the driverside motor mount ended up looking like, after spending most of yesterday making cardboard templates.
The challenges were:
Bolt locations were in the way of support brackets.
A/C work around
Steering Box bolt locations
Motor Mount needed to be angled up 15* do to low motor mout bolt locations.
Still have some welding to finish up, didn't want to do too much welding at one time.
([url]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2.jpg.html[/url])
([url]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3.jpg.html[/url])
([url]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4.jpg.html[/url])
([url]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7010020.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P7010020.jpg.html[/url])
Just thought I would commend you on your heavy duty mounts.
I just took my Tracker in for an alignment and the mechanic comes out and tells me my motor is falling out. Checking it out he is right. The motor mount was ripping the frame and motor had dropped over an inch. I had just enough space to get the angle grinder in, cut the mount off the frame, weld the frame. plate the frame and use four plug welds to spread load, beef up the mount brackets, weld heavier mount in and add a gusset on top. (Maybe your mount wasn't heavy duty.)
My mount on d/s was ripping down which would be from load (no jumping), not torque. Apparently frames are really weak in motor area.
Keep up the good work.
What TC are you using?
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Quote from: BRD HNTR
Just thought I would commend you on your heavy duty mounts.
I just took my Tracker in for an alignment and the mechanic comes out and tells me my motor is falling out. Checking it out he is right. The motor mount was ripping the frame and motor had dropped over an inch. I had just enough space to get the angle grinder in, cut the mount off the frame, weld the frame. plate the frame and use four plug welds to spread load, beef up the mount brackets, weld heavier mount in and add a gusset on top. (Maybe your mount wasn't heavy duty.)
My mount on d/s was ripping down which would be from load (no jumping), not torque. Apparently frames are really weak in motor area.
Keep up the good work.
What TC are you using? Toy RF1A
Glad to hear you caught the bad mount before the motor fell out.
I get a lot of flack about all the plating I do to the frame and how all the parts I make are over kill throughout the years. The added weight is a concern but piece of mind things are going to last just can't be beat.
T
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Getting the DD happier.
Fixed all the water leaks finally
All the hand me down parts off the big one
Aluminum Rad
Electric Fan with temp swintch in radiator and relay
New waterpump
Changed out all the steel coolant pipes and hoses
Replaced the intake since all the steel bungs were shotT
Reworked the intake for the Toy carb swap
New firewall coolant valve
Replaced the entire stock pos exhaust with a header and new full length flow through exhaust off the big one
The A/C was the next major task. Yep, still moving parts over from the big one
Used a Geo Metro serpentine comressor and aluminum serpentine pulley. The compressor mounting brackets needed to be modified 1/2 inch longer to make it all line up.
Installed a better condition Zuk condensor along with a better A/C condensor S fan with a relay.
Pulled all the A/C hoses gave them a through cleaning and added new o-rings
New drier
Suppose to get the system charged this week by a pro. He will give me any additional info to make it cooler if needed. Of coarse it has cooled off this week but I'm sure the heat will seek back up again.
Scraped off all the old nasty window tint and still need to do a couple more things. Just waiting to make sure the A/C is going to work properly before proceeding.
Have made some progress on the big one as well.
Got the new centered Toy rear axle leaf spring perches made and welded on.
Welded in the new 1/4 20 bolts to secure the rear brake line and added a tab for the brake line T junction.
Some paint was added and it is now in its new home.
Getting started on the horse collar mount for the t-case. Ordered the collar plate and mounts today.
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The DD work never as enjoyable, but necessary. I have started a lot of work on my Sidekick. Nothing real fun, but necessary.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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Yes, I have been working on the DD and the big one.
DD updates A/C working great but it was still losing coolant (not externally) this time.
Did all the tests for internal engine leak which all showed to be good.
Spent another couple of days going through the testing again. nothing looked bad.
So, if everything seems to be good decided to check the line and overfloww tank which checked good by blowing through hose and getting bubbles. Pulled the line off the tank and blew through to the rad with cap on and air passed through. The new cap lower rubber gasket was not sealing properly. Purchased a new rad cap the one with the red relief handle, which cured the problem.
Still need to do a few more things to the DD, probably in a few weeks to let it get use to the new parts.
Updates for the big one
T-case Horse Collar Mount. Picked up a DYI Collar from Front Range and 2 more Universal Motor mounts from Ruff Stuff.
Looked at how these H/C mounts were being mounted to the frame, which they all seemed to have the mounting ears welded to the frame. This seemed to be a problem if for some reason the mount needed to be removed. So, instead of the frame mounts being welded in place. These mounts will be held in place with 1/2in through bolts and the frame sleeved, like the trans mount. Now the H/C can be removed without disturbing the motor or trans.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010028.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010028.jpg.html)
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Got the extension puzzle pieces cut and fitted to the Horse Collar. They will be welded and the welds will be smoothed out. The excess material will be rough cut off using the saw. Theses angle surfaces will need to be finish cut flat on the mill, since this will be the outer perimeter surfaces the 1/4x2in strengthening plates will be welded to.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tcase%20Mount.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tcase%20Mount.jpg.html)
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Got the Horse Collar outside perimeter profile cut to the desired shape using the mill. This outiside surface needed to be flat for the 1/4 x 2in back bone that was being added.
The half round cuts for the universal mounts will be machined tomorrow and the steel bungs will be welded in. Going to give it a POR15 base coat, then finish it off with a red top coat to match the trans mount.
Still have the removable mounts to make. The through holes and bungs for the mounting bolts are going to be abit of a challenge, since the frame is angled in this area.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010037.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010037.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010036.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010036.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010035.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010035.jpg.html)
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Great looking work, as always. I wish the work on mine was as interesting. I am waiting on yet another center link for my Sport. Hopefully this one is the right size. If it isn't, I will be building one.
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Great looking work, as always. I wish the work on mine was as interesting. I am waiting on yet another center link for my Sport. Hopefully this one is the right size. If it isn't, I will be building one.
Thanks, just doing what I do. Got to say coming up with this T/C bracket design was a challenge.
Some times interesting isn't always the best coarse to follow on a build. It tends to lead into a rabbit hole of pulling ideas out of the magicians hat on occasions.
Good luck with your parts shopping, know how annoying and time consuming that can be. The only good thing about making your own part is, it actually bolts up and works when your done.
T
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Finished up on the Horse Collar. Had to order some more material that should be ready for pickup tomorrow. Planning on making the removable mounting ears next.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Top%20Finished.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Top%20Finished.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Back%20Finished.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Back%20Finished.jpg.html)
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Great work, as always. What do you use for bushing material?
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Great work, as always. What do you use for bushing material?
Really don't have alot of info on the poly bushings. They come as a universal mounting kit from Ruff Stuff. It seemed like the 1st 2 used on the motor mounts were a dit stiffer then the was used on the t-case mount for some reason. The same part number was used for both.
Here is a link for the mounts http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?f=0011Wcu5strJ3eO5nJa4IglrqiWc5TtY1ZFqCtqP0CfqFY9_c5jjqVgr43I9ORJ3da_a7vbyCr9SrErpM3AUpYSD4nAOPkSkQehyUo1cHctXVZTKr9x1806KBX1kwihxZ48f-YjtALOZBBRLbGgFL2FMgHGKH-gfs3ZFqUjx-DKaSWl2gGxhF_ddVwhUgjTyAopYnGRaxTw0w70WZ4K67m09sR5Qvpp16Tt223iRv7p04jXl3y78OY9x5sOW8DciMNxYqOFN4jEvB6woajx6Zb-DwFohna1M5rxKTTNj_nvJpl7tOSKpR8H4hI29A2t6JUuJC3FTmGeJ272fC0cdHKb-yKsgI8mepcmLmdfRl4pfakwtr0REw4lTZZYK-g34OUud-fN8BJ7mp23s9V9wdLAKw==&c=tcH83iUu-5Fxaup-odR2eFeltE_Ka2p-XyBQIqwiTF5sXRtc_QiPXA==&ch=lRjiVPmnDqaRSlunSNiztNcx-YAyIxeLlWW71kKUK_XhqCMsPh4r1Q== (http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?f=0011Wcu5strJ3eO5nJa4IglrqiWc5TtY1ZFqCtqP0CfqFY9_c5jjqVgr43I9ORJ3da_a7vbyCr9SrErpM3AUpYSD4nAOPkSkQehyUo1cHctXVZTKr9x1806KBX1kwihxZ48f-YjtALOZBBRLbGgFL2FMgHGKH-gfs3ZFqUjx-DKaSWl2gGxhF_ddVwhUgjTyAopYnGRaxTw0w70WZ4K67m09sR5Qvpp16Tt223iRv7p04jXl3y78OY9x5sOW8DciMNxYqOFN4jEvB6woajx6Zb-DwFohna1M5rxKTTNj_nvJpl7tOSKpR8H4hI29A2t6JUuJC3FTmGeJ272fC0cdHKb-yKsgI8mepcmLmdfRl4pfakwtr0REw4lTZZYK-g34OUud-fN8BJ7mp23s9V9wdLAKw==&c=tcH83iUu-5Fxaup-odR2eFeltE_Ka2p-XyBQIqwiTF5sXRtc_QiPXA==&ch=lRjiVPmnDqaRSlunSNiztNcx-YAyIxeLlWW71kKUK_XhqCMsPh4r1Q==)
I also ordered the bungs from them to use for the frame.
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Got the passenger side removable Horse Collar t-case mount made. Pilot Drilling through the frame with a 1/4 in drill bit ended up being quite troublesome, since the hole needed to go through at an angle. If rushed you will chip out the front of the drill bit when you start or the drill can break off in the frame when breaking through.
Either is a bad situation and a cutting torch will be needed, guess how I know?
Used a 3/4 hole saw to get a proper fit for the bungs. The 1/4 in pilot through hole on both sides of the frame, was used to align the 1/4 in pilot drill on the hole saw. This kept the hole saw through holes aligned to each other.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PB1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PB1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PB2.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PB2.jpg.html)
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Finally finished up on the Horse Coller and mounts. You can see the D/S is lower so the exhaust can run between the mount and the body.
Looks like the next thing is going to be the headers, which Im not been looking forward to making. May just go withe the log style, This will keep the exhaust awar from the starter.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20HC%20Mount.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20HC%20Mount.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20DS%20HC%20Mount.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20DS%20HC%20Mount.jpg.html)
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Spent alot of time trying to come up with a traditional type style header. The D/S motor mount was taking up too much space, since it needed to be moved back to fit the A/C compressor. The P/S box and steering linkage also took up the remaining of the extra room.
Really wanted to keep the heat away from the starter as well. With the extra frame plating, the area by the starter was just too close for (3) 1.5in pipes and a collector.
The only solution was going to be a 2in header power log. Which will transition up to a 2.5in crossover pipe and finally a 3 in exhaust through using a single muffler.
Took quite a while to find some mild steel mandrrel bends in the thickness and configuration that was needed. Had to make a couple of compromises on the radius bends, hopefully they work out. Planning on using the ball exhaust removable joints, if there is enough room and an O2 bung will be added after the 2 into 1 junction.
Here are a few pics of the mockup headers
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Header.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Header.jpg.html)
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After working with a 4 tube header, our limited space would be better served with your log style header.
It would seem to me that your O2 bung on #3 PS tube (second image) would be better on the log tube.
Does Chevy take the second O2 off the combined exhaust? Just asking because Suzuki doesn't and they also compare the two readings. Of course with the Chevy you can have the ECM flashed to do what you want (we are not that fortunate).
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The 3.8l motor's O2 bung is installed after the Y pipe, just following what GM engineered. There was an additional 02 back by the catalytic conver, which I will not be using.
The stock exhaust manifolds are like a log header. The D/S is cast iron which was not a useable material to modify for me.
Since the P/S manifold was mild steel tube, the excess was cut off and this flange with the stubby tubes was used for both sides. Again just following GM's lead. The headers sold for the Grand Prix are similar to what is being made. One difference with this header is the crossover pipe goes over the bellhousing in the stock configuration, which mine will go under.
Here is an example of a crossover tube for the 3.8l with O2 Bung installed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/O2%20Bung.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/O2%20Bung.jpg.html)
Here is what ZZ Performance sells, for a header for the Grand Prix. This would be the outer header or D/S header in my case, the elbow would need to be a 45* in the downward position. Didn't like the straight in design of the 1st pipe into the log. Decided to have the radius of the front tube run into the front of the 2in log. This gave me a little more room, since that pipe is directly over the motor mount and seems to look more appropriate this way to me.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/zz_plog.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/zz_plog.jpg.html)
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D/S Header
Definately not the easiest header to make.
To start had to weld a 4in long piece to the 2in x 45* log, since the tube only had a 5in leg.
The stubby tube ends needed to be coped to match the 2in log. Since they were already attached to the flange, the 2in coping was done freehand.
Then the holes in the log needed to match up with the stubbies and was also done freehand.
The 1st tube may have been the most troublesome, since it needed to match up with everything previously done. Since that tube was 1.5in going into a 2in log, needed to make a sleeve for the transition.
Here is the header tacked in place to see what needs adjusting.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_2.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_2.jpg.html)
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More great work and real hotrod feel, with the log style header.
I cheated and bought my header. No such luck for you two, with the customer V6 setups.
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More great work and real hotrod feel, with the log style header.
I cheated and bought my header. No such luck for you two, with the customer V6 setups.
Thanks and appriate the participation.
No such luck for me finding any headers to fit without major surgury. The cost was only about 100.00 bucks for the both.
Plan on jet hot coating them and probably wrap them to keep the heat down, since everything is getting tight now.
T
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P/S Header tacked in place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PSH%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PSH%201.jpg.html)
Couple of pics of the headers with the body on.
P/S
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PSH%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PSH%202.jpg.html)
D/S
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DSH%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DSH%201.jpg.html)
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Will you be doing car shows with this? I will not have the coupe finished next year, but it would be nice to drive out and hit a car show that you have the Zuk on 38's.
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Will you be doing car shows with this? I will not have the coupe finished next year, but it would be nice to drive out and hit a car show that you have the Zuk on 38's.
I havent really thought about the car shows. Did that for many years before I had the stroke. There always seemed to be alot of politics associated with who knows who.
T
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Got the hearders welded up heavy to radius smooth out the welds for added strength.
Ordered 2 spring bolt flanges and 2 pipe reducers to step the crossover pipe to 2.5 in.
Also ordered the bends and straight pipe fot the 2.5 crossover pipe.
From the Y conection back will be 3in to the tailgate, btw I will be attempting to make the Y conection.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Header_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Header_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_3.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_3.jpg.html)
The downward sections will probably be trimmed shorter, once the flanges get here to see what will work the best.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Headers.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Headers.jpg.html)
Ended up going this route since there really isn't going to be room for a flex pipe.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Flange.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Flange.jpg.html)
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Got some parts in to get started on the crossover exhaust pipe. This pipe has been stepped up to 2.5 Diameter, a 2-2.5 reducer pipe was used and was modified to fit the 2in spring collect and shortended to get the 90* bend for proper positioning.
Looks like I will have 4in clearence between the the crossover pipe and the front driveshaft at this time. Will probably have some spring sag after it gets on the road. I have an extra set of spings I can take a leaf from just incase there is too much sag.
Not sure if I like it or not yet, just seems like that 90* down pipe is abit low. Really have it tucked up as far as posible to make the bend under the trans. Think I will make another attempt at it to see if I can get that down pipe higher, which will give me more clearence on the front D/S.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC170034.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC170034.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC170032.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC170032.jpg.html)
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Looks like you have room to put some angle in the 2-2.5" adapter (or both the top and bottom of the adapter), moving/bending the exhaust closer to the oil pan. It would require reworking most the joints over to the crossover.
Because my diff does not move (or it not supposed to move), 1" clearance is (was) acceptable. Is your 4" clearance on bump stops?
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Looks like you have room to put some angle in the 2-2.5" adapter (or both the top and bottom of the adapter), moving/bending the exhaust closer to the oil pan. It would require reworking most the joints over to the crossover.
Because my diff does not move (or it not supposed to move), 1" clearance is (was) acceptable. Is your 4" clearance on bump stops?
Thanks BRD for the insite, That was exactly what I was thinking after I welded the pipe and got a good look at what was going to need to be done. Working with u-bends IMO is a PITA and keeping it simple isnt always the best way to go. I was also trying to keep the flywheel dust cover installed but in the end it needed to go.
T
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Decided to cut the crossover pipe apart and try and get some better clearence for the front D/S. This exercise of patients was with the flywheel dust cover in place (since I really wanted to keep the cover installed).
Well after reshaping the down tube shorter and moving it closer to the motor several times, with not much to show for the effort. The dust cover was just taking up too much room. Well, the dust cover was pulled and now there seems to be plenty of room to tuck the pipe out of the way. There will need to be some creative bends made to get it all to workout though.
In hindsight it would have been better to have purchased the header collector flanges when the headers were being made. This would have made it easier for fitment of the flange clearence wise and better positioning the exhaust exiting pipe orientation. This would have made it easier to make the crossover pipe.
Lesson Learned
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Reworked the crossover pipe to get more driveshaft drop clearence. With the dust cover removed the pipe was able to tuck under the bellhousing. This reworked section allows the driveshaft to have 8in travel now.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3_1.jpg.html)
Using a 2.5in piece of PVC for D/S mockup to check clearence. The D/S is parallel to the ground now, which is about an 8in drop. Made a gain of 4in by removing the dust cover and reworking the bends. The down pipe also looks better shorter and moved closer to the motor.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Clearence.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Clearence.jpg.html)
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I am with you in keeping the flywheel cover. Exposed flywheels seems to ruin the image of doing it right, not to mention the possibilities it posses.
I was still thinking you seemed to have much more room than I do, but this shot photo says we are pretty close (and I may have more room). (http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1.jpg)
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I am with you in keeping the flywheel cover. Exposed flywheels seems to ruin the image of doing it right, not to mention the possibilities it posses.
I was still thinking you seemed to have much more room than I do, but this shot photo says we are pretty close (and I may have more room).
Maybe it can be notched out around the exhaust to fit. May try something with it.
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Decided I needed to get some header gaskets to put in place before attaching the crossover pipe to the DS Y pipe. This will make sure the headers are in the proper position.
Also got my B&M Mega shifter in. Need to make sure the exhaust was going to clear the brackets and see where I can squeeze in a v clamp.
A few pic of some reworked pieces and some progress on the Y pipe connection.
Man this Photobucket is really wearing me out. There is always something that causes wayyyy to much time to be spent processing pics. I even pay for this lousy service. Oh well!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_4.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Header_4.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Remade%20Crossover%20Pire.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Remade%20Crossover%20Pire.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC300002.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC300002.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Y%20pipe3_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Y%20pipe3_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Y%20Pipe%20connected.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Y%20Pipe%20connected.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC300001.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PC300001.jpg.html)
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Was able to get the flywheel cover in place after some serious material removal. The threaded boss on the P/S cover was removed. This left a big hole that will have a concave plate welded in to cover the hole.
The 2nd cutout was a pocket by the back cover where there exhaust goes through. Need a bit more room for the exhaust pipe clearence. May leave this pocket open.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/FLYWHEEL%20COVER.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/FLYWHEEL%20COVER.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Flywheel%20Plate.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Flywheel%20Plate.jpg.html)
Back to my cardboard mockup of the bends going over the horse collar mount and sandwhiched between the body. Aslo made a muffler up to size to see if there was going to be enough room for this giant muffler.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Horse%20Collar%20Up%20Pipe.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Horse%20Collar%20Up%20Pipe.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%202.jpg.html)
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Flywheel cover mod completed. The Walker muffler came in, decided to hang it in place to see how things look. The front offset pipe looks like it will not be much of a problem. The back needs to snake around the gas tank. Looks like the tailpipe is going to have a couple of tricky bends to get around the tank.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/FW%20Cover%20Mod.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/FW%20Cover%20Mod.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Walker%20Muffler.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Walker%20Muffler.jpg.html)
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Dust cover looks good. (I knew you weren't really going to leave it off or with holes open.)
Your work is still what most of think we are going to do going into a project, but don't end up with at the end. It seems that patience is one of your virtues, and that is required to do it the right way.
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Dust cover looks good. (I knew you weren't really going to leave it off or with holes open.)
Your work is still what most of think we are going to do going into a project, but don't end up with at the end. It seems that patience is one of your virtues, and that is required to do it the right way.
Thanks BRD really wanted to get that cover in place. Just makes things look more finished with it in place and there is the safety aspect as well.
Without the torque converter not being in place. It was a bit questionable if there was going to be enough room to plate the crossover pipe pocket. Decided to lay the converter out on the bench and see if I could get some dimensions before making and installing plate (2). After getting some rough measurements, looked like it was doable.
BTW Did I mention those plates were abit of a challenge to make. Actually used the intake tube that was welded on wrong and cut pieces from it and reshaped them with a dead blow hammer and a pair of vise grips to get the irregular shapes. After the plates were welded in, used the dead blow to better smooth the transition then dressed the welds.
The point you bring up about what you have in mind and the way things turn out is usuallt different. Is why I don't sugar coat the process of the parts being made. If the work or the parts are not to my liking, then it will be remade or reworked until I feel I have a quality piece. Would rather put the extra time in now to try and prevent having to redo something when it is finished.
Although I do get a hard time from the people that stop in about things being done are overkill. I just say to them. Isn't it a waste of time to make something that is going to break. Just food for thought.
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Ordered up a block of aluminum a few weeks ago for the AC bracket. Worked on it while I was waiting on the 3 inch pipe to arrive to finish the exhaust.
To refresh your memory the wooden block in the pic was the finished mockup bracket for the mini AC compressor. There were several wooden mockup brackets made to finally get the mini AC compressor orientated in the limited space remaining.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1070009.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1070009.jpg.html)
Front side
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1120002.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1120002.jpg.html)
Mounting side
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1120003.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1120003.jpg.html)
AC compressor and new bracket mounted.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1120005.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1120005.jpg.html)
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Progress on the exhaust pic
Finished Crossover pipe. The way it sets in the pic is how it looks in place. Got to say after seeing the pic doesn't look like there was a whole lot to it. Well it was very time consuming to make and getting all the pieces to come together was quite the challenge.
Have alot of welds to dressup before sending it out to be ceramic coated.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Finished%20Crossover%20Pipe.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Finished%20Crossover%20Pipe.jpg.html)
O2 installed and showing 1x3 wood blocks for clearening ehaust parts
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Clearence%20Blocks.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Clearence%20Blocks.jpg.html)
Start of the obsticle coarse section of the exhaust
Just goes to show you cant have enough clamps. This is a shot of just 3 of the many clamps holding parts in place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Clamps.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Clamps.jpg.html)
Another pic of the obsticle coarse pipe and flanges installed. Tried 2 seperate methods of welding the flanges, still got a little warpage. Will need to spend a little time flattening the faces out. That is why I purched the 3/8 thick flanges.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Obsticle%20Coarse.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Obsticle%20Coarse.jpg.html)
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You might want to rethink that front transmission/transfer case mount, because mine is much more robust than yours. (And I tend to build on the light side.) ;)
I built mine out of 1/2X6" because while turtling over logs and rocks the stock members tend to bend. So if not turtling over objects that solid looking mount may hold up.
Still enjoying your build.
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You might want to rethink that front transmission/transfer case mount, because mine is much more robust than yours. (And I tend to build on the light side.) ;)
I built mine out of 1/2X6" because while turtling over logs and rocks the stock members tend to bend. So if not turtling over objects that solid looking mount may hold up.
Still enjoying your build.
Well lets see if I can try and sway your skepticism about the trans mount.
Lets start off with your observation "It is solid mounted". There actually is a poly mount bolted to the bottom side in the stock GM TH mount location.
This style trans crossmember mount is a HP performance upgrade for GM and Ford Mustang. I did beef it up and used a stronger type of frame mounting system, consisting of 8 grade 8 1/2" bolts and the frame was sleeved for the bolts. The center section of the frame was also 1/4" plated on the inner and outer frame rails.
The stock trans crossmember was removed, To help get the structural integrity back to the frame the new trans crossmember mount was added.
This trans mount also takes abit of the load off the Horse Collar. IMO
Advange of this trans mount is the t-case can be removed without disturbing the trans.
***Most of the v6 swaps that I saw didnt use a trans mount if they were using a Horse Collar t-case mount .***
The addition of this style trans mount makes it over kill.
Seems if there was a trans mount added with a H/C, it was generally just a piece of flat plate steel bolted to the bottom side of the frame with a poly mount.
There was a backbone added to the 3/8 H/C plate to keep the stress and twisting to a minimum on the H/C t-case mounting bolts.
As far a turtling over obsticles that you mentioned, don't think that I will need to worry about it with the daul mounts in place. JMO
BTW Just because something is bigger doesn't always make it stronger. That is when the engineering of the parts come into play.
Hope the info I provided gave you more insite in the thought process of the trans and t-case mounting systems. If you saw everything in person I'm sure you would not have the same conclusion.
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Hope the info I provided gave you more insite in the thought process of the trans and t-case mounting systems. If you saw everything in person I'm sure you would not have the same conclusion.
I do believe that it has more engineering. I had to comment because this is the FIRST bracket that I have that is of heavier construction. I did not say that my mount was "Better" , I said it is more "robust" - strong, vigorous, sturdy, tough, powerful, solid, muscular, sinewy, rugged, hardy, strapping, brawny, burly, husky, heavily built. Your horsecollar mount is the strongest that I have seen. I constructed my mount to solve a problem that the stock mount did not meet. Your build is not intended to be used for my purposes, and I have no doubts that it could survive my uses without further modifications.
And do not worry, my one robust mount does not diminish the quality of your build.
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I do believe that it has more engineering. I had to comment because this is the FIRST bracket that I have that is of heavier construction. I did not say that my mount was "Better" , I said it is more "robust" - strong, vigorous, sturdy, tough, powerful, solid, muscular, sinewy, rugged, hardy, strapping, brawny, burly, husky, heavily built. Your horsecollar mount is the strongest that I have seen. I constructed my mount to solve a problem that the stock mount did not meet. Your build is not intended to be used for my purposes, and I have no doubts that it could survive my uses without further modifications.
Looking at your long list of adjectives for your crossmember, thought I was going to have to start a new build thread to get back on topic. Glad you finally picked one that tickled your fancy.
BTW you did call me out saying I should think about reworking the trans mount. Kind of an odd time to say anything now when that mount was finished months ago.
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And do not worry, my one robust mount does not diminish the quality of your build.
Believe me the thought never crossed my mind. As mentioned earlier throwing a larger bandage on a problem only prolongs the next major catastrophe.
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Got the bend over pipe made and tacked in place. The 2nd set of flanges were also installed and the front side of the muffler is attached to the pipe.
Put the rear bumper back on to start getting ideas for the tail pipe. Used the same cardboard bends that were made a couple of weeks ago to see what the bends will look like. Thinking I may just go staight out the back since the pipe is so big. Think that the turn down end may not look that good with the large pipe.
Well no one asked how the angles were being cut on the bends.
All the angle cuts were done free hand with a 4.5 hand grinder and cutoff wheel. The cut was layed out to the desired angle and a scribed line was made on the tube for me to cut along. The cuts were then dressed flat on the belt sander. Then go and check for fitment ( The 1st cut is just to see how much needs to be taken to have all the pieces come togther). The next few cuts will go through the same scribed cut line process.
On to the pics
D/S view of the completed bend over pipe attached to the muffler.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Bend%20Over%20Pipe.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/DS%20Bend%20Over%20Pipe.jpg.html)
P/S view
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Bend%20Over%20Pipe.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/PS%20Bend%20Over%20Pipe.jpg.html)
Starting on the tail pipe
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tail%20Pipe.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tail%20Pipe.jpg.html)
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Well started on the straight out tailpipe and didn't like the way it looked. There was too much drop from the rear muffler pipe to the bottom side of the bumper.
Doing it like this would show too much pipe. Wanted to continue to hide the exhaust behind the frame to give the Zuk that sleeper look until the superchager kicks in.
Ended up going with a turn down exit pipe instead of the straight pipe back. This put the tailpipe behind the frame rail like I wanted. Of coarse it opened another can of worms.
So, rite off the bat the 1st bend needed to be pie cut modified in 2 places. This was done to decrease the bend radius and give an extra 1/2" clearence between the gas tank corner and the exhaust pipe coming from the rear of the muffler. Then there were 3 more radius pieces with some tricky angles that were needed to get the tailpipe to exit the rear bumper in the desired location. Got to say that tailpipe was much harder to configure then I thought it would be. Seems to be the on going theme through this build.
Couple of pics
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tailpipe%20Bends.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tailpipe%20Bends.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tailpipe%20Location.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Tailpipe%20Location.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Tailpipe.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Side%20View%20Tailpipe.jpg.html)
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What about going with a partial cut instead of the full slash cut?
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What about going with a partial cut instead of the full slash cut?
Thought about that and a couple other alternatives, although it really doesn't look out of place in person. Trying to keep it about 1/2" past the bumper to keep the fumes from entiring the cab, since it isn't a turnout to driverside.
Working on getting the hangers made for the pipe and muffler. This will give me time to think about what to do on the tailpipe. Probably going to make up a couple different ideas using some scrap 3" tube and holding it in place, rather then experiment on the finished tailpipe.
Thanks for the reply
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Thought it would be a good idea to drop the body in place and post a pic of the clearence between the bend over pipe and the floor of the Zuk. Just incase there were a few thinking there is no way that pipe will clear.
Well, it looks like there is about an inch of clearence. This seems like a mile since Ive been trying to squeeze out a 1/4" here and there for the past year making everthing fit.
Since the bend over pipe will be under the drivers seat, dynamat will be used on the inside floor and a heat barrier will be used on the bottom side of the floorboards. The muffler will also get a kevlar wrap to keep the heat down in this area, since there is going to be a B&M trans cooler with fan mounted across from it on the passengerside.
Just wanted to add that when the trans mount and horse collar were being built. The exhaust system was being planned around these obsticles, to keep the OH NO factor to a minimum.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1230019.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1230019.jpg.html)
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How many exhaust mounts are you planning on installing? With the use of bungs to allow it to be broken apart do you plan on having hangers for each section?
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How many exhaust mounts are you planning on installing? With the use of bungs to allow it to be broken apart do you plan on having hangers for each section?
Good question, working on hangers now. Put 1 universal hanger in the stock location on the tailpipe. Got my exhaust hanger round grommets in today. There are 4 and these grommets and will be used to hang the muffler on all 4 corners to keep it in position, since I'm just using muffler clamps and not welding the pipe to the muffler. There will be 1 more universal hanger on the bend over pipe section closer to the muffler.
This hanger configuration will probably make more sence when they are completed and the pics are posted.
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Got a few more parts in today B&M High Tech Trans Cooler with fan and a Derale Remote Trans Filter. Good thing there isn't too many more parts that need to live in this rear section since there isnt much space left.
Going to have to come up with a more creative way to run the trans and fuel lines, since the frame rails are being used for the trans and t-case mounts. Thinking about making a bar that mounts to the upper middle side of the trans starting at the bellhousing and stretches back to the t-case. The fuel and trans lines will be held in place with some aluminum split clamps. This will keep the hose tucked up in the tunnel area and the fuel lines can be routed up the back of the block to the fuel rails. Anyway thats the plan for now.
Finishing up on the exhaust now and installing a couple of universal hangers for the pipe sections. The muffler will be getting a custom set of mounts made that attach in 4 spots toward the outer corners using exhaust hanger grommets. This should keep everthing in place, since the muffler and pipe will be clamped instead of welded together.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Trans%20Cooler%20%20%20Filter.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Trans%20Cooler%20%20%20Filter.jpg.html)
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What about running the lines up through the frame itself?
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What about running the lines up through the frame itself?
Yeah, that was one of my 1st thoughts.
2 holes large enough for (2) -6 trans cooler hoses and (2) -6 fuel and return hoses will weaken the frame IMO.
Been looking at my options alittle closer and may have a couple more ideas
. This is why I spend several days looking at what theres is to work with, then make a decision.
T
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As I am running dual exhaust, on left side I used 4" exhaust over my 2 1/4" exhaust pipe cutting 1/3 of the 4" out and creating a heat shield out of it. I used standoff's and it is open on both ends. Without a temp gauge in the area,, I have no idea of how effective it is, but have not had heat related issues on my fuel system.
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As I am running dual exhaust, on left side I used 4" exhaust over my 2 1/4" exhaust pipe cutting 1/3 of the 4" out and creating a heat shield out of it. I used standoff's and it is open on both ends. Without a temp gauge in the area,, I have no idea of how effective it is, but have not had heat related issues on my fuel system.
I used to make all types of heat shields when I was building custom motorcycles. None of them really worked that well.
Plan on using a Kevlar blanket wrap around the muffler. This should keep the heat away from the trans cooler. Mounting instuctions say to mount cooler 6" from exhaust, which I have exactly luckly.
Here is the product
https://www.hotrodhotline.com/exhaust-system-insulation (https://www.hotrodhotline.com/exhaust-system-insulation)
Plan on using this product on the side of the gas tank facing the tailpipe and maybe some area of the floorboards.
https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/heat-shield-and-thermal-barriers/hp-sticky-shield (https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/heat-shield-and-thermal-barriers/hp-sticky-shield)
Going to use header wrap on the tailpipe, the pipe running along the trans and headers.
With the addition of the Jet Hot coating inside and out believe that will take care of any problem areas.
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Had a few questions about exhaust hangers. Got to say sometimes it is tough to make an idea come to life when working on the fly. Got ahead of myself twice since there were several pieces that needed to be made and welded together. Then keep all the pieces to stay in place while doing the finish welding. Just to make it just abit more interesting everything was at an angle and the bracket for the muffler needed to match the outer ribbed contour of the muffler.
Started on the duel mount muffler hanger. The muffler is hung by the outer edges which helps it stay in position and not twist, since the pipe and muffler will be clamped together.
Was going to make another duel hanger for the other end of the muffler. May only need just the 1 along with a couple universal hangers on the pipe.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%20Hanger%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%20Hanger%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%20Hanger%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%20Hanger%202.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%20Hanger%203.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Muffler%20Hanger%203.jpg.html)
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There were a few questions about the grommets being used and may not hold up to the heat.
They are specifically made to be used to hang exhaust systems.
Here is the info
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-exgro (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stw-exgro)
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When I built hangers I just used a generic strap style.
Not sure if if the main heat is due to the air around the muffler or the transfer from the metal.
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When I built hangers I just used a generic strap style.
Not sure if if the main heat is due to the air around the muffler or the transfer from the metal.
Unfortunately dont have an answer or any insite to your statement.
Going to do a test on a grommet and see it melts. Will use the DD muffler as the heat source. Stick an extra grommet on top of the muffler and let it idle for awhile and see what the results are. This test should take care of any futher discussion on the grommets.
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Since there have been questions about the grommets not holding up to the heat of the muffler. Decided to do a non scientic heat test using the DD.
The grommet was layed on top of the muffler and the DD was (ONLY) idling for 20 min. The pic of the testing proceedure was taken with the motor still running. Notice my hand on the muffler to show how hot the muffler was and the grommet on top of the muffler.
I know the DD doesnt have an L67 supercharged motor and it wasn't being driven hard. As stated non scientic heat test.
When the welding was being done on the mounting brackets, there was just (1) grommet used for spacing purposes. It did show some melting but the bracket material was red hot. If the exhaust gets that hot during usage, will have more things to worry about then the grommets melting.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Before%20Test.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Before%20Test.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Testing.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Testing.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/After%20Test.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/After%20Test.jpg.html)
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It is time to make a decision on external or internal fuel pump. Since the budget went out the window awhile ago decided to give the Aeromotive Phantom 340 fuel system a shot and an Aeromotive an-6 fitting 10 micron filter.
Quarterpastgone has be kind enough to share info with me when needed. He is using an external pump and has had no issues. Just decided to try something different for another option if the budget is already blown.
Will be using the Zuk tank, since it was bought new awhile ago. With the Aeromotive sytem the fuel out, return fuel in and breather are in the top portion of the pump. This keeps from having to use the fittings on the tank that may be of different size then what might be needed. Delt with that mess when doing the GSXR setup.
Think while Im at it going to switch over to a universal 0-90 ohm sending unit and ditch that odd ohm Zuk one.
Pump
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688/reviews/?sortReviews=Newest&page=3 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688/reviews/?sortReviews=Newest&page=3)
Filter
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-12347/recommendedparts (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-12347/recommendedparts)
Youtube Video of install
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzQr_12oHKk#t=816.9380206 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzQr_12oHKk#t=816.9380206)
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The in-tank fuel setup does make keeping things cool easier. A buddy ran a 1.6L 16v with an external fuel pump and had to install a larger return line to keep enough fuel flow when idling in the rocks to keep the pump cool and stop it from cavitating.
Nice to know those grommets will work out!
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The in-tank fuel setup does make keeping things cool easier. A buddy ran a 1.6L 16v with an external fuel pump and had to install a larger return line to keep enough fuel flow when idling in the rocks to keep the pump cool and stop it from cavitating.
After reading all the people having issues with the external pumps over heating and failing on Pirates L67 swap bible. Thought the in take pump would be a better choice. Time will only tell though.
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Some Progress even with the usual after market part fitment issues.
Needed to machine a new bolt circle for the new floatless sender. Did like that this sender came in 1" increment lengths. My tank was 10" ordered the 9" sender which gives about a gallon reserve after E.
Slapped the tank on the mill for the new bolt circle.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Sender%20Mod.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Sender%20Mod.jpg.html)
Also needed to make a centering sleeve to keep the sender centered in the old sender hole for machining.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Alignment%20Sleeve.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Alignment%20Sleeve.jpg.html)
Cut a piece off the waste block from the A/C bracket to use for the fuel filter rail pinch bracket.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Fuel%20Filter.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Fuel%20Filter.jpg.html)
Trans Cooler and Filter frame mounting rail.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20T%20Cooler%20Filter%20Rack.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20T%20Cooler%20Filter%20Rack.jpg.html)
Ni-Copp 3/8 hardlines and AN-6 to tube fittings were used. Adel rubber isolater clamps were used to mount the hard lines.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Cooler%20Lines.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Cooler%20Lines.jpg.html)
Decited to use disconnect fittings to run the lines along the frame rails and under the trans mount. If the trans mount needs to be removed the lines can be removed at the disconnect fittings.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/6%20Cooler%20Line%20Disconnect.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/6%20Cooler%20Line%20Disconnect.jpg.html)
Here is a bottom side pic of the trans cooler, filter, fuel filter, hard lines and mounting rail in place. Alot of stuff in a small place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/7%20Bottom%20Rack.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/7%20Bottom%20Rack.jpg.html)
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Had a question about keeping the exhaust heat away from the trans cooler.
Had the same concerns when looking for a spot for the trans cooler. The cooler instruction say minimum 6" from headers for clearence, (the muffer is much cooler then the headers). I had 6" between the muffler and cooler, until the fuel filter needed more room. Its now at 5" and less at the hard lines.
So, started my reaserch and found a place that makes all types of heat sheiding, wraps and barriers for exhaust.
(The kevlar blanket wrap is what I plan on using around the muffler).
The cooler hard lines running along side the muffler were more of a concern now. The trans cooler needed to be orientated in this configuration per instruction for proper fuild flow. My choice would have been to flip the cooler so the lines were towards the frame.
Got another plan for the cooler lines for heat protection. Going to add a piece of sheat metal to the trans cooler rail mount between the muffler and hard lines as a shield and use some of the (self stick) heat barrier to take care of that issue. Plan on using the same stuff on the D/S gas tank to sheild it from the heat from the tailpipe.
Here is a place that sells the heat shielding for those interested in the products being used.
http://www.thermotec.com/products/all.html (http://www.thermotec.com/products/all.html)
My biggest concern is throwing a driveshaft front or rear, which would be a real mess since all the fluids are run next to them.
Terry
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Great looking work, as always. Looking forward to seeing more.
I still haven't started my rebuild yet.
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Thank you for the link. I plan on adding a wrap for the exhaust to help keep things cooler under the hood once we have the Tracker up and running again.
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Still at it.
Ran into a few obsticles running the brake and fuel lines. Decided to start off by getting the removable trans cooler rail mounted, painted and bolted in. The rail had a heat sheild added between the cooler lines and muffler.
Will be adding 3/8" heat shielding pipe wrap to the cooler lines and also adding some stick on heat barrier to the sheet metal heat shield for added protection.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Trans%20Cooler%20Rail.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Trans%20Cooler%20Rail.jpg.html)
Needed to come up with a better way of running the brake lines, since there are headers on both sides now. Using the bulky oversided stock brake distribution block was not an option and the mounting bracket was too close to the exhaust.
Reconfigured the line locations in the new brake distribution block and was able to move it back about 4" away from the exhaust. The P/S front brake line will be run under the rail to keep it away from the exhaust. There will be a rock sheild added and some 3/16" heat shielding pipe wrap for protection.
Next obsticle, going to have to scallop out a spot in both frame rails to clear the radiator for the brake lines. Need them ran as low as posible since there will be A/C and P/S hoses running along the top frame rails
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Brake%20Block.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Brake%20Block.jpg.html)
Couple of pics of the lines that have been run
Not sure on fuel lines yet, need to wait to see what room is left. They will probably be a combination of 3/8" Nicopp and -6an hose.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Limes%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Limes%202.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Lines%201..jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Lines%201..jpg.html)
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I am running into the same issues, dual exhaust just gives twice as much space.
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I am running into the same issues, dual exhaust just gives twice as much space.
I found that there needs to be even more planning involved when running lines and configuring new parts in a small space. The brake, trans cooler and fuel lines have really had me working for solutions.
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Thought I would mention that my count is finally back over 30,000 again!!!
Only took 2 years to get it back up there again.
Glad to see the interest is still there.
Thanks to all the viewers for taking the time to stop in and follow the build.
Terry
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After looking at the short disconnect trans lines running along the rail for a couple of weeks. They were going to have to be reconfigured to make room for the fuel and return lines. Like this routing much better and leaves plenty of room for other options.
Really have to think 100 moves ahead when planning where parts need to live and play nice with their neighbors.
OR
You will find yourself scratching your head a whole lot more coming up with a solution.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P3130001.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P3130001.jpg.html)
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After looking at the short disconnect trans lines running along the rail for a couple of weeks. They were going to have to be reconfigured to make room for the fuel and return lines. Like this routing much better and leaves plenty of room for other options.
Really have to think 100 moves ahead when planning where parts need to live and play nice with their neighbors.
OR
You will find yourself scratching your head a whole lot more coming up with a solution.
([url]http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P3130001.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P3130001.jpg.html[/url])
That must be why I have that enormous thinning spot on top of my head.
I noticed that the later model cars are putting the fuel pressure control/return line back at the tank. This eliminates one line. Just a thought.
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[/quote]
That must be why I have that enormous thinning spot on top of my head.
I noticed that the later model cars are putting the fuel pressure control/return line back at the tank. This eliminates one line. Just a thought.
[/quote]
I had the same thought a few months back. Found out the l67 motor needs the return line running from front to back.
Seems there is a vacuum control valve on the fuel rail, which regulates the fuel pressure during normal and supercharged driving. Really don't want to mess with something that already works at this point.
It has been a puzzle solver trying to get all these lines run. Ordered a bunch more hard line, hoses, adapters. Found some SS Gravel Guard for the brake and trans lines. Going to reroute everything for the last time and hope for the best.
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We do "REALLY" enjoy doing this!! Right?
You know I was considering the problems of those lines running alongside the frame and considered bundleing them together and running inside the frame. No rock damage heat would already be sheilded, just rubbing issues and welding issues with later revisions. Always a glitch in good ideas.
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We do "REALLY" enjoy doing this!! Right?
You know I was considering the problems of those lines running alongside the frame and considered bundleing them together and running inside the frame. No rock damage heat would already be sheilded, just rubbing issues and welding issues with later revisions. Always a glitch in good ideas.
Don't recall ever mentioning that I enjoy doing this, its just busy work with a giant pinch of frustration and aggravation mixed together. Hopefully keeps the mind active enough to help fend off alzhymers.
Lots of rod rod builders were running hoses and hard lines in the frame years ago. Most that actually drove the cars stopped this practice because of the work involved in replacing or maintenance issues of the hoses and hard line.
With all the different types of gas produced not all are friendly with many of the good quality hoses used today.
Here is the warning for the good quality braided SS and the AOP Socketless hose from Summit. Wouldn't want to take the chance of gas fumes building up in the rails. My frame also has 8 sleeves per side in the same area that take up alot of room, which eliminates going through the frame.
WARNING
In recent years various fuel manufactures may have added any number of new unpublished additives to their fuel blends. Due to this fact it is very difficult for hose manufacturers to know how the inner liner of their elastomeric tube compounds will react with a given fuel. Because of these unknowns we are unable to guarantee that the hoses we provide are the best possible products to use with any specific fuel. The most commonly reported issue being a fuel odor that permeates from the hose. If there is any doubt regarding the fuel you plan to run we recommend that you select a PTFE lined hose for your application.
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Well 3rd try on the trans lines seemed to be the best way to go, which was my original idea. The easy way proved to be a waste of time and materials.Waiting on more hard line to finish the upper line.
The trans is now protecting most of hard line, since it is run much higher and off the rail. Gravel Guard was added to help with some added protection.
Added a short piece of -6 hose by the horse collar for flex between frame mounted hard lines and the trans mounted hard lines. With the hard line attached to the trans now, this will limit movent to 1 position by the horse collar.
Still need to make a couple of clamp mounting brackets to secure the hard lines to the trans.
The plus sides
The -6 hose and hard line still has a disconnect to keep the hard line short for removing the trans.
The trans mount can also be removed without messing with the cooler lines now.
Have more flex in lines with the -6 hose.
Better protection from front driveshaft and road debris.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Hard%20Lines.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Hard%20Lines.jpg.html)
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It was tougher coming up with away to secure the cooler lines routing them next to the trans. Thats why this routing was chosen last but was my 1st choice, just couldn't come up with away to secure the lines at the time.
Notice there have been SS Gravel Guard added to the hard lines to protect the softer nicopp hard line being used.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Front%20Trans%20Line%20Mount.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Front%20Trans%20Line%20Mount.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Ft%20Trans%20Line%20Mount%20Loaded.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Ft%20Trans%20Line%20Mount%20Loaded.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Top%20View%20Line%20Brackwt.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Top%20View%20Line%20Brackwt.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Middlle%20Trans%20Cooler%20Line%20Bracket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Middlle%20Trans%20Cooler%20Line%20Bracket.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/6%20Miccle%20Line%20Bracket%20Mounting%20Hole.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/6%20Miccle%20Line%20Bracket%20Mounting%20Hole.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/7%20Middle%20Cooler%20Line%20Bracket%20Mounted.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/7%20Middle%20Cooler%20Line%20Bracket%20Mounted.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/8%20Completed%20Cooler%20Lines.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/8%20Completed%20Cooler%20Lines.jpg.html)
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Amazing work as always. Lots of inspiration in your posts.
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Amazing work as always. Lots of inspiration in your posts.
Thanks Ridjo just doing what I do.
Really wanted to show there isn't anything wrong in doing something over a few times, to get a better result. There is a price to pay though, since the learning curve isn't free.
Got to say its hard sometimes to justify the extra time, wasted materials and aggravation brought on by these changes. Just make sure the end result meets all your needs. That way all the extra effort doesnt sting so bad.
Glad to see Im inspiring someone occasionally.
T
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Amazing work as always. Lots of inspiration in your posts.
Thanks Ridjo just doing what I do.
Really wanted to show there isn't anything wrong in doing something over a few times, to get a better result. There is a price to pay though, since the learning curve isn't free.
Got to say its hard sometimes to justify the extra time, wasted materials and aggravation brought on by these changes. Just make sure the end result meets all your needs. That way all the extra effort doesnt sting so bad.
Glad to see Im inspiring someone occasionally.
T
I do agree with you in that. Especially when the rework produces what you were looking for. Or even just shows that you re moving in the right direction.
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Finally finshed with the trans cooler lines and hoses!!
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Pocket%20Rail.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Pocket%20Rail.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Bung%20Plate.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Bung%20Plate.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Bung%20Plate%20Tacked.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3%20Bung%20Plate%20Tacked.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20Bung%20Plate%20welded%20and%20Mount.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4%20Bung%20Plate%20welded%20and%20Mount.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Finished%20Trans%20Lines.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/5%20Finished%20Trans%20Lines.jpg.html)
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(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/04.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/04.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/05.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/05.jpg.html)
I call it the Expressway
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Express%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Express%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Express%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Express%202.jpg.html)
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Finished up on converting the stock gas tank into a modern fuel cell. Getting ready to plumb the -6 hoses.
Here were the components used
Floatless sending unit. (Not a direct fit)
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=346/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd346.htm (http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=346/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd346.htm)
Intank Fuel Pump
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010024.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010024.jpg.html)
Decided to replumb the rear axle brake lines and add the gravel guard.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010025.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/P1010025.jpg.html)
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I am on vacation in Florida, so I had to see the 'Zuk on 38's"
So Terry was good enough to allow me to stop his shop. I have to say that it is more impressive in real life than the photo's. It is literally squeezed in between the rails. I will be visiting him in the morning for more discussions and will probably bring Drone with me.
Here is the Zuk lifted (sorry for cropped photo) and the mechanic creating it.
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It was a pleasure having the Andersons out. Spent about 4 hours combined Friday late afternoon and Saturday early morning. Just way too much to look at in the short amount of time we had.
BRD and I may get together when he heads to Florida again. Next time we know we need a full day to chat.
Didn't know he was going to post a pic of me. Don't even recognize myself any more. Stupid stroke nocked the good years out of me and left an old man.
T
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Here is a pic of the tank plumbed up.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Fuel%20Tank.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Fuel%20Tank.jpg.html)
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After having to redo the lines 3 times. Decided it would be better to take a different approach to cut wasted time and product on the rest of the lines.
This seems to be working much better since I don't complete my 1st idea that comes up. Just make a piece or 2 and take a day or so to look at different options. Doing it this way gives you plenty of time to see what will work better by adding a little at a time and make adjustments as needed.
Got my new favorate tool called a nut rivet gun. Works great for making attachment points on the sheet metal of the Zuk.
This was my solution to get more room and keep the exhaust heat away from the brake lines.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01%20Flex%20Brake%20Rear.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01%20Flex%20Brake%20Rear.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02%20Flex%20Brake%20Hose%20FT.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02%20Flex%20Brake%20Hose%20FT.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03%20Firewall%20Brake%20Lines.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03%20Firewall%20Brake%20Lines.jpg.html)
Here is the nut rivet gun which was used to make secure attachments to the firewall
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03a%20Nut%20Rivet%20Gun.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03a%20Nut%20Rivet%20Gun.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/04%20Brake%20Junction.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/04%20Brake%20Junction.jpg.html)
There was a window needed to be cut in the fenderwell. This ways to make it easier to install the braidef hose. These lines are DOT approved and good for 300 degree heat.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/05%20Window.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/05%20Window.jpg.html)
Had to make another remote PS reservoir bracket, since it now needed to be lpcated on the passenger side. Still had a chunk of aluminum left that was cut off the A/C bracket. Used it to make a cap to cover origanal steel cap the reservior came with, big improvement.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/07%20PS%20Reservior.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/07%20PS%20Reservior.jpg.html)
This is where slowing down and lookung at the problem worked well for me with several ideas to build off of. After a couple of days looking at how the fuel lines were going to run up the firewall to the fuel pressure gauge and head back over to the fuel rail. Part of the solution was using a slotted indexing fuel hose sand off bracket to keep the hoses in position.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/08%20Fuel%20Line%20Standoff.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/08%20Fuel%20Line%20Standoff.jpg.html)
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New home for the coil packs.
The stock location was not an option, since the upper radiator needed this area to function. After looking at several new locations ended up centering the coil pack on the firewall. This task was accomplished after making a tricky mounting bracket.. Oh, forgot to mention that the rivet nut gun was used for the anchore points.
Thought this was a good spot since the plug wires would be equal lengths to each other. Should help a lot with heat as well because it is not mounted to the motor.
Probably go with the MSD coils, they are red and some red plug wires to add a little color to the engine compartment.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Old%20New%20Coil%20Pack%20Location.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Old%20New%20Coil%20Pack%20Location.jpg.html)
Here is a front view shot showing the coil packs center mounting location on the firewall.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Coil%20Pack%20Firewall.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Coil%20Pack%20Firewall.jpg.html)
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I am back home again. It is interesting seeing Terry's work, knowing what he was going to do, usually we just get to see what he has done. Everything on this build is bigger than the photo's. (I was so busy looking and asking questions that I didn't get many photo's, but Kris has at least a couple of good shots.) When Terry lifted the body off the suspension (with his hydraulic lift) to expose the frame to easy access, my wife commented that I really needed one of those. Alas needing remarkable things for our builds and getting them are sometimes distant possibilities.
Cllearances on this build are possibly even tighter than mine, So much to think about what I saw, and discussed about what we were both doing, and what he has done before.
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Steven,
Glad to hear you made it back Ok. I see you tearing up the ZW board.
Lets see with all the adjectives you have carefully chosen to describe the visit and the Big Zuk. Just curious if you had a good time or liked the build.... So, I hope you had a good time and the build was better then expected.
Guess, that I will repost the Zuk stats again with a couple of comparison pics. This should help eveyone get a better perspective of the size of the Zuk, since Steven mentioned how much bigger it was in person.
These pics and stats always seem to annoy people though.
Stats
90" wheelbase with full weight on the springs.,
84 inches tall,
82 inches wide.
Notice the width and the hieght is about the same to keep it from being to top heavy.
Front frame extended 8 inches
Rear axle pushed back 3 inches
4 1/2 inch YJ lifted springs
Toyo 38's and 16x12 wheels
Big Zuk next to DD with 4 inch lift and 31's
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Outside/Both.jpg)
Here is one next to my buddies stocker
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Outside/Stock.jpg)
Here are comparison stats to the stocker
For those interested in the lift dimensions:
Stocker is 15.5” to the bottom of the rocker panel.
Big one is 36” to the bottom of the rocker panel.
There is a 20.5” difference in lift from the stocker to the big one.
I know most think that is ridiculous and impractical. I did however mention this in the beginning of the thread. When you are building things for a Bucket List they are going to be over the top or why bother.
T
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That's big! :)
Like it!
-Eric
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That's big! :)
Like it!
-Eric
What is not to like, even the builder is likeable.
Yes Terry, meeting you and going over the Sami was a Very Good Time. When I get back to Florida, I will be back at you shop for at least a day. Knowing you now, I know we can have a good time getting more done with the extra hands.
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It is interesting seeing Terry's work, knowing what he was going to do, usually we just get to see what he has done.
Well, Steven I try and learn from my mistakes about giving too much info on what is going to happen next. This just seems to lead nowhere with comments like not doing things properly.
Example: The Log Headers, which no one liked. Seems the tide has turned and are the mext best thing to sliced bread.
Go fiqure that one out.
Guessing what comes next and how it gets done also seems to draw a lot of viewers to the threads.
T :)
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That's big! :)
Like it!
-Eric
Wow, Eric stopped in with a post.
Thanks for the like.
T
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Amazing pics of the rig. Glad to see the BRD HNTR made it. It's always good to see your progress.
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It is interesting seeing Terry's work, knowing what he was going to do, usually we just get to see what he has done.
Well, Steven I try and learn from my mistakes about giving too much info on what is going to happen next. This just seems to lead nowhere with comments like not doing things properly.
Example: The Log Headers, which no one liked. Seems the tide has turned and are the mext best thing to sliced bread.
Go fiqure that one out.
Guessing what comes next and how it gets done also seems to draw a lot of viewers to the threads.
T :)
My eloquence may have overloaded my mouth on that one. Four tube headers flow better, with less back pressure, given space for the extra tubes and to disipate the heat. The first function of a header is to route the exhaust gasses from the head go another spot (exhaust system). Log headers do that. As we do not have much space, a contorted four tube header will be radiating more heat from all the tubes, and the exhaust system is going to eliminate the negliable differences in back flow.
I had found a four tube header that fit the space, and when mounted on the motor it is big and impressive. Your log header neatly routes the gases out to your exhaust system, no extra tubing to have equal lengths that allow more heat radiating in a very crowded limited space. Form to function it is a much better design, and your execution is great.
And having seen how how yours was built and being reminded by you how to adjust fitment (as I hadnt considered doing it there), if heat becomes an issue i will be following your lead. As you said when we were discussing my coming down there, you did show me some things that will help me in my builds. I WILL have more time of my own next time we meet.
Take care.
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Still at it.
New Coil Packs
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01%20Coil%20Packs.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01%20Coil%20Packs.jpg.html)
Spark plug wires and loom issues
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02%20Spark%20Plug%20Looms.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02%20Spark%20Plug%20Looms.jpg.html)
ZZP Covers were bought to mount the spark plug wires to. This was to keep the excess heat off the wires.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03%20ZZP%20Covers.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/03%20ZZP%20Covers.jpg.html)
Going to be doing 250amp alternator upgrade and heat hose delete
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/04%20Alternator%20upgrade.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/04%20Alternator%20upgrade.jpg.html)
Upgraded the modified supercharger throttle body intake tube mounting threads to a 1/4x20 SS threaded inserts. Probably going to add (2) 1/4 dowels to help support the weight of the tube and throttle body.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/05%20Threaded%20Inserts.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/05%20Threaded%20Inserts.jpg.html)
Its time to cleaning up and refurbish the superchager and fuel rails. Had to get a new set of rotor packs since the coating was starting to flake off.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/06%20SC%20Housings.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/06%20SC%20Housings.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/07%20Fuel%20Rail.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/07%20Fuel%20Rail.jpg.html)
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Machining spark plug wire sandoff and looms to mount to the ZZP valve covers.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/01_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/02_1.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3_2.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/3_2.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4_1.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/4_1.jpg.html)
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Finally finished running the plugs wires, along with all the wire looms and mounting brackets.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Spark%20Plug%20Wires%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Spark%20Plug%20Wires%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Spark%20Plug%20Wires%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Spark%20Plug%20Wires%202.jpg.html)
Rear head wire loom and bracket
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Head%20Bracket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Head%20Bracket.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rear%20Loom%20Bracket%201.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rear%20Loom%20Bracket%201.jpg.html)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rear%20Loom%20Bracket%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rear%20Loom%20Bracket%202.jpg.html)
Spark plug wires run throu passenger side looms
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rear%20Plug%20Wire%20Loom.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/Rear%20Plug%20Wire%20Loom.jpg.html)
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Your still doing amazing work. Peggy has been trying to get me to make my shop more like yours, cleaner. But she isn't committed to the hoist, although she could see the advantages of it. I will get back to see your Sami running.
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Your still doing amazing work. Peggy has been trying to get me to make my shop more like yours, cleaner. But she isn't committed to the hoist, although she could see the advantages of it. I will get back to see your Sami running.
Got to say that I never liked or wanted a lift. Have changed my mind now after using it to do this FWD motor to RWD conversion.
I did all the work on my back the 1st go around. This included all the fab work and welding. It is alot easier getting the body out of the way to do proper mockup and welding.
You do have to take in consideration the body is off when making parts and brackets, since everything being made will need to be accessible from under the vehicle with the body on. This takes some getting use to, you will find this out after thinking you have a clever means of over coming the next part to the puzzle. Only to find out it bottomed out on the body or you cant reach any of the bolts for repairs.
I truely believe having a lift will give you the opertunity to turn out a much safer rig, since your welds will be better and planning out the project from the top looking down also givrs more insite in which direction things can go. Plus you don't have to get up and down a million times, which should mean more quality work being done.
If you explain it to Peggy that you don't want a new toy. The lift will be used to give you a better chance on making a safer rig by what I mentioned previously, this may help her with a decision.
Terry
PS: Make sure your slab is a (MINIMUM) of 4" thick
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This used to be a combination bracket which functioned as an:
1. Attachment point for the front side dog bone bracket used for the Pontiac motor.
2. Coil Pack mounting plate.
3 Belt tensioner
The problem with the mounting ear cutoff for the dog bone and the coil packs relocated, you end up with this nasty looking belt tensioner. This has been bugging me for a quite awhile now. To start off with there is no real way to cut it down, since it is heavly gusseted for the belt tensioner and pulleys.
Even order one from another make GM family 3.8l minus the dog bone ear and coil pack mout that wouldn't bolt up to the head.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Coil%20Bracket.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/1%20Coil%20Bracket.jpg.html)
So, after looking at this nasty bracket for way too long, Here was the fix, decided to machine up a cover to kind of get it to blend in better. Well, its done.
It seems to look smaller in person and may even be able to use it for some attachment points.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Coil%20Bracket%20Cover.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Supercharged%20Motor/SC%20Motor%20Install/2%20Coil%20Bracket%20Cover.jpg.html)
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Lots of drama tring to get the ( specialty ) shop to get the supercharger freshed up. So, instead of paying them a ransom " to do me a favor " and refubish the polished modified supercharger.
Decided to just pickup another supercharger up and make a new one. Still waiting for them to send me the old one back. Just don't seem to have much luck with the " special people " at any of the specialty shops during this build. Just seems the only thing they are really good at is getting you to believe they are the only ones that can make cool aid correctly and take your money. End result is I generally end up having to make something over again.
Got lucky and got a reasonably nice supercharger, with the coating still on the rotors. Have already roucgh cut the rear housing. Need to make the aluminum pieces that need to be welded in for the throttle body tube to attach.
Now there is another distraction with the cat 4 hurricane approaching this weekend. Will see if there is going to be anything left to work on Monday.
Terry
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Peggy says to raise that beautiful Sami up on your lift and leave. We have been watching it approach and are very concerned for you. It looks like there is not any place in Florida that is going safe, because the storm is 400 miles wide. I suspect that at this point with the number of people that will be attempting to drive out that it will almost be impossible to get out of Florida. We hope you have a Safer Shelter to ride out this Hurricane.
Your work is still looking awesome.
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Just to let everyone know that Tan Zuk is Ok. He did get out of the way of the hurricane, and now is dealing with the aftermath of the storm. He hasn't had internet service for three weeks, and even phone calls are intermittent (with a lot of noise).
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BIG Thanks BRD for passing on the storm updates.
Wow, been having an awful time trying to log on the past couple of days. Really had to go around about way that seemed to work this time.
Well, had along time to think about giving myself more options incase there is another major hurricane in the future. Decided the 1st thing would be to get rid of the DD, since it really isn't something you want to be on the interstate with even in good conditions.
Of coarse I ended up having a couple of health issues:
1st one was inner ear issue which effected my balance.
2nd was 3 kidney stones that took about a week and a half to pass.
Electric was only out about 36 hours. The internet and phone were out about 3 weeks. Really can't do anything about this situation. Just glad I didn't have to wait for 3 weeks to get electric back like I did during Wilma.
So, the major thing I could do for myself to get some peace of mind for when the next big hurricance threatens Florida. Was to get a new car. Just incase I decided it was necessary to bug out in the future. So, this is what I got to make a getaway if needed.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j445/TanZuk/Anglia/Vette%202.jpg) (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/TanZuk/media/Anglia/Vette%202.jpg.html)
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That is not a Zuk, but close because it is Awesome.
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You could always put a hitch on there for a tow bar!
Nice "bugout machine!" ;D
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Well, have decided to get rid of the Zuk on 38's and retire.
Still needs to be finished but reasonably priced for sale at 5000.00 have way more than that in it.
If interested contact me here
Thanks Terry