ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Performance / Modify => Topic started by: Nicoles95trkr on June 05, 2012, 10:08:40 AM
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Looking around for a lift for my tracker. Im wondering what size i will need to fit 33's on it. Will trim finders if needed. i like the 6 in. calmini, but its kinda pricey, but thats the only 6 in. i can find and i think thats what i'll need to fit the 33's . Also, will i have to change axles and do i gear reduction. its a 95 2 door with 1.6L 16 valve auto. 4x4. Any help? ???
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You will have to combine a suspension lift with a body lift for that much. Calmini is just that, a 3" susp and a 3" body lift. My spacers can be made up to 3" tall but I do not recommend using that much in front. I would suggest 2" coil and strut spacers in front and 3" coil spacers in the rear. You will get about 3.5" of lift in front. Hard on the CV's but if you want that much lift without dropping the front diff you have to push them to the limit.
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Pricy, but you get what you pay for. For another choice, Altered Ego has a 4.5" suspension lift that moves the wheels forward in the wheel well in front, and back in the rear. Combine that with a 2 " body lift and you should be able to clear 33's. I also have a 95 2 door 16V auto, and you are in a great position having the auto trans. You differential ratios are 4.30 to 1, which would make the switch to the manual trans diff at 5.125 to 1 ideal for running 33 inch tires, and best of all their available for not much coin.
There's another alternative: modify all the stock parts, buy your own coils, fab up some diff drop brackets, perform the front end widening and rear axle over rotation, and learn some handy skills at the same time. ;D
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Check out Drone637's white rabbit project http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/project-white-rabbit/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/project-white-rabbit/). It is close to bentparts last suggestion, and close to what you have.
We did testing to see whether 33's could be done w/o any trimming and it will take a body lift to clear 33's with no trimming.
Switching to 5.12 diffs is a must, and 5.38's would be better. 33's require power to cruise, I notice the difference with a V6, so the lower gear ratio the better.
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thank yall so much! I wasnt sure about a body lift i really wanted a suspension lift cause i wanted the most clearance for my money, but if it needs one then im in. Yall are the pros, Thanks again! ;D
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You can run 33's with ever so slight fender massaging with the AE 4.5" lift when running some tire width/wheel offset combos, 32's wont need any help. http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-sidekick-vitara-geo-tracker-(gen-1-platform)-1989-1998/install-altered-ego-4-5'-lift-kit/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-sidekick-vitara-geo-tracker-(gen-1-platform)-1989-1998/install-altered-ego-4-5'-lift-kit/)
Plenty of room to run 33's, these are 31x10.5 ProComps on 15x8's 4"bs
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1291.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1292.jpg)
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Clearance has its off side also. The more clearance, the higher the center of gravity. As there is not all that much wheel travel on front and rear, so it is not hard to three wheel these in off road conditions. From three wheels to two wheels and then Belly Up or Laying it on the side can be a blink in time. What you plan on doing with your Tracker may change the best way to get it setting on 33's, or whether/when to go to 33's.
As you can see, ZW members like to help get Zukers solve their issues. Just lifting your Tracker is like just buying beer, it comes in lots of flavors and some are not palatable to you. Where do you plan on running your Tracker? Rocks, mud, hills, sand, back roads, malls, DD? There is a difference in how it needs to perform.
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mud.
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I know all the guys round these parts that primarily play in mud dont really use the body lifts, they prefer to get as much lift out of the suspension to get the frame as high as possible.
The AE 4.5" lift is about as far as you can push the stock driveshafts and CV's as far as lift goes, but with additional parts like slip yoke eliminators, 1310 ujoints shafts, CV mods and the basic parts of the AE 4.5" lift can be safely pushed even further.
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You can run 33's with ever so slight fender massaging with the AE 4.5" lift when running some tire width/wheel offset combos, 32's wont need any help. [url]http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-sidekick-vitara-geo-tracker-(gen-1-platform)-1989-1998/install-altered-ego-4-5'-lift-kit/[/url] ([url]http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-sidekick-vitara-geo-tracker-(gen-1-platform)-1989-1998/install-altered-ego-4-5'-lift-kit/[/url])
Plenty of room to run 33's, these are 31x10.5 ProComps on 15x8's 4"bs
([url]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1291.jpg[/url])
([url]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1292.jpg[/url])
I am not so sure about that. I had 31's on mine with clearance, and still took moving ball joint and fender trimming to allow 33's and full travel. I think your AE lift may be the best system I have looked at, and definately was much easier than the route I took, but I do not see enough room to stuff and turn 33's up front. Looks like stuffed you get close with your 31's. Your front bumper will likely need trimming also. Mike hagan's ZR3 project was essentially a frame extension and body lift up front and he still had to do some trimming. Not that trimming is bad, it is relatively easy.http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/how-to-enlarge-tracker-wheel-openings/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/how-to-enlarge-tracker-wheel-openings/)
nicoles95trkr
Mud. 33's take more power to turn but they will help keep you up on top of the mud. Run the 5.12 diff's and consider getting lower gears for the transfer case. Talonxracer's AE lift although pricey, (and may require a little trimming >:D) would be a good direct (fast) way to get it lifted and on the trails.
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Yes you do have to mod the stock bumper cover to use the AE kit with 31's+, or run a crawler bumper
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1222.jpg)
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Thank you so much for all of your help. I dont want my tracker that big. a 3 in. lift with a small body lift is big enough, i dont want to run any bigger than 32's, but you know how it goes, the boy wants it bigger...lol.
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So ur saying I can put 4 in of lift and my cv's be fine with and open front diff?
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Nothing over 3" without diff drop. Just FYI I have both 5.38 gears and 5.13 gears for sale for trackick.
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The AE 4 1/2" kit comes with diff drop brackets. Any lift over 2" will usually require lowering the front diff. to keep from blowing the CV's when extending the front end. (Too much angle on the CV joints.)
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Sidekicks/Trackers have awesome approach and departure angles, break-over angle/rocker panel clearances are their weakness. I would never add to this issue by stretching the wheelbase, ever. I personally went with a combo of OME/Calmini parts even though I believe in buying locally and live close to AE. I still haven't touched the fenders/stops and run 30" BFG KM2s with clearance, 31 or 32s certainly won't be a problem with minor fender mods and appropriate back spacing/rims. (32x10.5 TSL radials)
As nobody really addressed the issue of the strut limiting the down travel for the uninitiated, I thought I'd throw in a bit more muddy water.
- the strut dictates the amount of down travel & potential CV bind, if it's stock you'll have no worries with up to 2/3 in. lift
- a 2" strut spacer or flipping the stock mount (w. stock size strut) is all good for most applications, gains in travel are also good and bumpstops are still functional and CVs still will hold up. No diff drop is required = max clearance (shittier MPG with the hubs locked in 2wd)
bigger lifts...
* OME struts have about an inch more travel but the body is also 1.25" longer (>2" overall length) and combined with a 2" strut drop will certainly require the 2" diff drop. OEM bumpstops are now ornamental & bottoming the suspension happens at the upper strut mount. Still no CV bind at full drop though
- a 1+" spacer on the OEM bump will fix the issue for regular off road stuff
There's obviously a lot of combinations/stacking scenarios without even considering the compression limitations of the soft aftermarket coils available or alternate OEM diff/CV retrofits.
yep, muddy waters... ::)
(http://www.image-share.com/upload/1730/74.jpg) (http://www.image-share.com/ijpg-1730-74.html)
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Love them Tintops!