ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: 86samurai829 on December 28, 2011, 10:27:13 PM
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since i was 12 i had always loved samurai's, i thought they were sweet, my cousin had a nicely done up one and i always wanted to have one of my own. needless to say i didnt know how much was in it and how much itd cost to buy one like that. 6 yrs later (now 18) i found this samurai. it is a 1986, there are 96,000 miles on the body and 55,000 miles on the motor. it has a spring over lift and 2" lift shackles. he had rivited diamond plate around the whole body. i bought it for $1,400. its already lifted, it runs and drives perfectly fine so i didnt see where i could go wrong with it. i live in upstate NY and the body has a good bit of rust. the frame has surface rust from what i can see but the body has some rust that is all the way through (i'll post more pics tomorrow).
my plans are: pull the body off the frame.
: replace the floor pan
: make all new body panels for it (minus the doors, hood & tailgate)
: paint it all (neon orange possibly, rhino line the underside to prevent future rust)
: then i want to tend to the frame, see if there is anything real bad or if it is just surface rust like im thinking.
: then rhino line the whole frame, again to prevent future rust.
i know as of right now it needs new leaf springs, the ones it has now are almost flat and worn out. the guy put procomp es 3000 shocks in the front but not the rear. so i want to upgrade the shocks.
thats the first stage, i want to focus on the body and frame first, with minor performance/operating upgrades, just to be on the safe side. later phases will be alot of performance upgrades and what not.
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Looks like a fun little rig.
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Great little find... and sounds like you have a good idea on the body off (to fix the rust problem).
... just know, that's a loooong road. Replacing rusted out panels, and edges takes a long time. Especially when you have to rebuild the corner, or edge out of 16g steel.
First coat over that new steel should be "etching" primer. Then http://www.por15.com/ (http://www.por15.com/) POR15, then bed liner. Bed liner alone won't cure a rust problem OR keep it from rusting, but POR15 will encapsulate the steel and primer, and not allow any moisture into the steel. POR15 dries with moisture, not evaporation... so it's moisture resistant (for lack of a better explanation). If you can't get rid of ALL the rust, use a rust killer type product. SEM makes something called RUST MORT that's worked for me. Or, if you can't get to it very easily and need it to turn the rust into a hard coating (that can almost be painted), use something by Permatex #81775 RT-8A called "Rust Treatment".
Good luck, and keep us posted!!
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thank you for the tips. i will for sure look into all of them. i plan on taking the body off the frame next winter and just fixing as much of it as i can because i know there is no way i will ever get ALL of the rust. but i want to make sure the floor pan and rockers are atleast done. that way i can get racing seats, 5 point harness, put rock sliders on it and build my roll cage.
im going to look at some 33" mud tires tomorrow. then thursday im going to look at new stronger leaf springs and a bumper that can hold a winch. i want to get the leaf springs and get em put in so i dont have to worry about snapping a spring. it isnt something i want to ever worry about on the trail or just driving down the road. and the ones in it are BAD. they are flat-almost backwards.
last night i pulled the windshield off to get to the wiper motor, i have to order it tomorrow. then thursday im going to put that back in. put the new leaf springs in and put the newly mounted 33's on it.
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Just a heads up, if those are the stock Sammy springs, they don't have much of an arch from the get go.
Ol man emu replacements have a small arch that gives the 1 1/2-2" lift it posts.
Toyota pick-up springs are the same way, little arch, both have that "Brush Snagg'n" reversed thick spring on the bottom of the stack.
CAPT
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i didnt know that. so thank you for the information. but i do think they are worn bc the fronts are almost arching backwards. so just on the safe side i am going to replace them.
got some 33's today! they will be mounted on thursday! im pretty pumped.
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well the 33's look sick on the samurai, fit perfect! bought the wiper motor that'll be in tomorrow. just had a minor set back today, messed around in the yard being pretty hard on it and it blew a camshaft cover gasket and started dumping oil everywhere when i parked it in the garage(needed an oil change anyway, just a quick way to do it lol).... gotta order that tomorrow. but until then i'll get the new wiper motor in, window on and support bars on.
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working on it in the garage.
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the oil leak was just a valve cover gasket. got the gasket today and put that in. changed the oil with a new oil filter. windshield wiper motor is all good and works now. so she is ready to go on the road and trails! cant wait.
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so i have tomorrow off from work. so i think im going to start cutting my wheel openings. i want more clearance for the 33's but dont want to go any higher. so cutting the wheel openings seems like a good option and its basically free.
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I trimmed my front wheel wells, what I did is cut the rocker panel back about 1.5" at the bottom and went up at a angle to the fender, so it blends in and gives you a bit extra room when you turn.
And anther thing that works good is moving the front axle ahead 1", all I did for that is redrilled the spring pin holes on spring perch and U-bolt plate back 1", but you will need 1"-1.25" driveshaft spacers on both ends of the driveshaft, depending if you already have a spacer on the front and how thick it is.
My SJ-410 with a 4.75" spoa lift, the rocker panel trimmed, and the front axle moved ahead 1" I would barely rub my 33x12.5x15 TSL's.
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sammys lookin real good man. Im in upo rstate too thing must have been a southern car or kept inside to be lookin that good... damn salt. what part of up state you in im up by rochester lets go wheelin!!!
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i'll look into the axle movement. i already have driveshaft spacers, but im not sure on the thickness bc they were in it when i bought it. but i put trimming them on hold. i want to cut a good bit but to do that ill need to fab new wheel wells and right now i dont have a welder so doing that would be tough. im saving money to purchase a welder.
well it looks good bc the rust is covered up by diamond plate. the frame is still beautiful but the body needs some work. but for now it looks fine covered up. i live in Johnstown.
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well i wasnt planning on getting this much stuff today but i had to jump on this deal.
front bumper that holds a winch
rear bumper
& YJ front springs with missing link!
now i just have to install it all. then i will look for some YJ springs for the rear and get new missing links for that.
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well i went to replace the wheel lugs in the rear and found that my drums are pretty rough. so just waiting on the parts from Rock Auto to rebuild and clean up my drums. putting that all back together and then i will start the YJ spring conversion. for now i will be fabricating boomerang shackles for the rear but the fronts came with missing links. at some point down the road i will have enough saved to buy new missing links for the rear.
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It is always something. :)
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oh yea for sure. but she is all back together now.
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first time i took her muddin! went very well, had alot of jeep lovers making fun of the samurai, but i was the only one who didnt have to get towed out, and right now its all stock except the lift and 33's!!! and i only saw one jeep go in the pit where i did, and he had to be pulled out! i laughed at them afterwards (:
but i burned the clutch out bc the clay was so darn sticky in the parking lot where the mud trucks were parked, and found i need to gear it. thinking 4:16:1 transfer case gears bc i still want to drive it on the road during the summer. im going to spool the rear and Lockrite Locker in the front. so got some work to do to her now.
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33's? They look like 37's in picture 4&5. :laugh:
8) 8) 8)
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oh yea that clay was piled on them lol
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well just ordered my new high performance clutch from Petroworks! should be in next week. going to get my YJ springs rebushing-ed sometime next week and get my new shocks within the next week!!! woo hoooo its like christmas ;D going on an ordering spree, lockers, gears & new tires to come soon!
Anyone have any reviews on Wild Country MTZ's?! they look like they'd be pretty good.
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well still waiting on the clutch to get here, should come in on the 20th. and i just ordered my 6.5:1 t-case gears ;D cant wait to get those and get em in! the next thing to order will be my locker for the front and spool for the rear. i'll post pictures and what not of both the clutch and flywheel install and the gear installs once i do them.
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Goog luck installing every thing, you'll love those 6.5:1s with the big rubber ;)
Not sure about the Wild Country MTZ's but I have 33x12.5x15 TSL's on my 82 sj410 and they grab, dig, and clean out way better then the 31x10.5x15 BFG KM2's on my 89 two door sidekick. I think I'll get the LTB's or the Boggers for my next set.
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well my 6.5:1 gears are scheduled to be in Monday, i just ordered the rest of my YJ conversion and thats scheduled to be in on Friday. so pumped. i cannot wait to get all these shiney new parts in my samurai and get em dirty! ;) pictures will be posted when i get the parts in.
but for now heres the new clutch, flywheel, clicky start fixer, shock mounts and the new shocks i bought!
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new 6.5:1 gears and Mighty Kong t-case mount just came in last night! going to take them to my buddy jakes house and have him help me put them in, dont know exactly when but hopefully soon. new clutch and flywheel are in the samurai, just waiting for new input and output shaft seals then that'll be done. and the new missing link set up for YJ springs should be here Friday. got a long week ahead of me putting this stuff together! :D excited though.
heres a picture of the new clutch and flywheel in. i'll post a picture of the gears and Mighty Kong when my phone charges.
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Looking good!
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thank you 8)
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picture of the gears xD
and got my YJ leaf springs back (:
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heres some pictures of the YJ leaf spring conversion! (also did the rear but didnt take any pictures)
question, the steering arm now hits the leaf spring when i turn left, only allowing me to turn half way to the left, what is the fix?
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just a few more pics of the conversion.
the conversion went pretty easy in the front, unbolted well in the front. new springs and missing links bolted right back in. the rear on the other hand was bad, had to grind off the heads of the bolts for both springs, things were welded together with rust, the rear seemed it hasnt been touched in awhile. but once it was apart the new stuff bolted right in easily. front shock mounts were already in a good position, the Doetsch shocks have 13 1/2inches of travel so at sitting height i have 7 3/4inches of shaft showing. Leaving me 5 3/4 inches of drop left. seems like it will work fine. have to weld the new shock mounts in the rear, not sure what my shocks will be set at yet. but its all going together pretty smooth. Putting the 6.5:1 transfer case gears in this week, the back in the samurai, have to weld the front and rear bumpers on and put my tail lights in the tail gate. not much left to do ;D
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started my gear reduction today, found two bearings that need to be replaced, so had to order them. i'll have em friday so i can finish that up. then i finish putting her together! only things left are putting the mighty kong and t-case back in, driveshafts and welding the bumpers on. then it'll be ready for the trails/road. but putting it on the road will have to wait.... someone decided it would be fun to back into my new truck and destroy the box..... so i'll be having to get that fixed first before i put the samurai on the road.
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heres some pictures of the transfer case pulled apart
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while doing the new tcase gears i found i had two shot bearings on the input shaft. the one bearing was easy to find, the other one i cannot find! i found full kits but i dont want to spend $80 for the full kit when i only need one bearing. anyone find both those bearings not in the kit?!
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transfer case is done and back in! ran into a few problems... front drive shaft is WAY too short, even with a spacer. rear drive shaft is at the wront angle, already maxed out on angle... and the transmission wont shift into gear when running but shifts fine when off. could be the clutch cable? i put a high performance clutch in it so im thinking thats whats wrong. but not sure. going to try and figure that out tomorrow.
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Always something. :)
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yea its always something!
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just how the look of her has progressed over my ownership
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Looking good man! Ima have to dip into my tcase soon. may shoot ya some questions if i have any....
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alright, its no problem. not too hard, especially if you get the kit from lowrangeoffroad. their directions give you colored step by step pictures. they tell you all the tools you'll need. they make it simple
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well got my exhaust in, went with 32" of pipe to a thrust glasspack and it ended there.
got my tail lights all wired up and in.
plus did alittle bit of flexin on the ditch in my yard, stretching her legs. YJ's flex nicely (:
only thing i have left to do for now is weld rear shock mounts, the front and the rear bumper.
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Looks good 8) you're a lot further up the steep side of the ditch then the first picture on page one. love how you got the girl in the passenger seat pressing in the brake to hold it there well you take the picture :laugh:, that wasn't even an option in my sj410 since it had no brakes at all! And since I can never get any one to come with me ??? Maybe it's because of my brakes :laugh: I think their scared of what we do and where we go with these little zuks!
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haha, yea i had to have my gf hold the brake, i wanted to take the pictures lol. she's a good gf and loves riding along. when i first bought it i could barely get up the hill to flex out. now i can climb that hill no problem. im getting there to making her unstopable! only thing left is locking the axles(as far as performance stuff), and gotta get some better tires.
but thank you. yea people are afraid of what these little zuks can do! i live in an area where all people know is Jeeps. they bash on the little zuk till they see me wheelin it 8) then they make excuses why their jeeps couldnt do what the zuk could!!!
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got the bumpers on! had to rebuild the rear bumper mounts bc they were about paper thin, one broke off! and the front had to be welded on. but not too sure if i wanna keep it or make a new one. im not sure yet...
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my front turnn signals and all the rear lights finished up. how they look?
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They look good!
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Nice job, coming along good.
Does the credit card hurt yet?? ???
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thank you Drone637
FBJR, no i dont have one, but my wallet has been very empty since i started working on it. hasnt seen much green lately! lol but thank you.
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got her on the road today!!!! she was running great, people were staring left and right. had a few people talk to me while i was sitting at a red light. then i decided to go to the local sand pit and run her around there for awhile. ran well in there. and when i left and was heading home it started to spit and sputter, it wouldnt go over 30mph. when i shut it off the battery was completly dead, then in the dark i could see the ignition coil sparking from one bolt to another by the tower. the plug wires were doing the same thing where they touched the cam cover. what the heck is wrong?! one fellow offroader said it was the ignition coil, and my local samurai guru said it was the fuel pump. so idk where to start
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changed the fuel filter, got new plug wires and a new ignition coil. now i cannot get it to start!!!!!!! it turns over but will now fire? idk what is wrong ???
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well here was the problem.... the previous owner left a loose wire under the hood that was attached to a positive on the coil(no idea why). i never thought of just ripping it out bc it didnt cause any problems until the other day. the wire actually welded itself to the frame shorting out. which in turn blew the fuse that is in the ignition coil system. i checked to fuse, it was blown, replace the fuse and it fired right up first shot. now my battery is staying charged, no more sputtering and i now have a new fuel filter, coil and plug wires.
learned a lesson with it all, sometimes its the little stuff that messes everything up. sometimes just gotta slow down and think simple.
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Glad you were able to get it working again!
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me too. ;D im having a ball finally driving it on the road(and off)
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well to it to Mudders Day on saturday. was having a blast and made it through the smaller mud holes just fine. slipped a bit bc my tires arent very good. but i got ballsy... i went into the big mud pit! where my cousins International Scout with 38" boggers and a chevy 350 had just gotten stuck, needless to say i got stuck. well he went to pull me out and ended up pulling me towards a tree stump and my left rear tire hung up on it. all his power pulled my whole sammi out except the one tire. snapped my main leaf into two and bent my bumper at a 45. ratchet strapped the leaf up in the bracket and drove her 10miles to my house. all in all a very good day. it was a freakin blast. second time i took her out in the mud and i had the most fun ive had in awhile!!! even with the breaking
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after much thinking, researching and alittle bit of joking with my cousin i think i have planned this winters major project(roughly). im thinking a heart transplant a a new set of axles... 4.3 V6 and a dana44 front and dana60 rear. my cousin wants me to buy his axles from his internation scout so he can put 1tons under it and that got me thinking. so im currently on the search for an s10 or a blazer with a decent 4.3 to start overhauling, a basic tune up for it, make it look pretty and convert it to a carb(mainly for simplicity). going to try and keep it a manual. and since im going to be so much wider with the axles probably going to try and find 4-6inch lift YJ springs to make her even taller. or possibly 4 link with charged shocks so no need for coils or springs. gotta work out the finer details but thats a rough plan. what ya'll think?
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Going to be big. :) Are you stretching the wheelbase and flat fendering at the same time? One of the issues with performing a full swap like this is that your removing a lot of what makes it a Sammy. Instead of heaving a small, light wheeler that can get through stuff by tossing it around your going with a larger, heavier big hp rig that just doesn't have much interior space and took a lot of work to get there.
You might be better off just sticking with the S10 you find and putting the axles under it.
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i only want to stretch it alitttle bit, still be under 100 thats for sure. i dont want it looking too stretched out and lose my short wheelbase.
and i've thought about losing the narrow width, and thought of possibly toyota axles or wagoneer axles bc they arent as wide as dana 60's but alittle wider than samurai axles. just dont know if they will hold up to the 200hp of the 4.3 and 37" boggers..
my samurai is more of a mud/open trails rig. there isnt anywhere im really going to go that a J**p on 1tons and an International Scout on dana 44's hasnt gone. plus i like the open top, no doors, small interior space of a samurai. an s10 just wouldnt suit me as well.
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Sounds like a lot of work, $$$ and a ton of extra weight! Its your samurai and you can do what you want to it, but I agree with Drone about it being too big, not that it wouldn't be a cool rig, but it's a little to soon to be tearing it apart again! Drive it for a while and have some fun with it first and then decide if you want to go bigger and how big you want to go, and by then you could have some $$ saved up for it and once you find some diffs and a motor and have them all fixed up and as close to being ready to bolt up as you can before you tear your Sammy apart, that way you get the most drive time with it, instead of it sitting on blocks and jack stands for 6-8 months at a time like mine has been, it's missed the last two springs of muddy trails(my favorite time to go wheeling) because of it being tore apart. I'm not saying don't go bigger, just try and have as much fun as you can with it before you have to tear it apart again.
As for Toyota diffs not holding up to 200HP and 37's, maybe not stock but if you get longfield shafts they should hold up fine since longfields website says they are stronger then a stock Dana 60 axle shaft! and Toyota diffs would be way lighter then a dana 44 and 60, and if you want to be a bit wider then the stock toy diffs then get TrailGears Rockassalt diffs (3" wider then the stock width) and you can get the front diff offset to the right or the left, so you could spin the left hand drop one around to make it a right hand drop for a rear diff for 4 wheel steering! But plan to spend 7-10 grand to build the diffs with ARB's and get hydraulic steering.
As for the motor a 2 liter 4cyl (125HP/135 ft pounds of torque) with a aluminum block would be a lot lighter then a V6 with a steel block, and it would still be double the HP of the stock 1.3 liter.
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well getting the parts together this summer, im starting to look for axles and a motor and what not. i want to get the motor within the next month so that i can start rebuilding it now and get it done before this winter, along with axles. and i will be doing the motor rebuild myself. i live in upstate NY so i will only get the summer and fall to drive it anyway bc my samurai has alot of holes and is not a winter vehicle. and for where i wheel width is not a problem, i drive down trails that are already widened by my cousins jeep and international scout, both on 60's. we have found one place where it was a problem and it wasnt even that bad. i have found my weak points, with what little wheeling i have done i have found what could be better, im not going to keep wheeling something that i know could be better.
i would do toy's but the extra money it would be to go through them and build them to take 200-300 HP would make them ridiculously expensive. when i can buy 60's and be just as strong only doing a minor rebuild of them. and like you said 7-10grand to build toys is ridiculous.
there is a guy with a tube buggy samurai with a motor(not sure exactly what) putting out 150HP and 37's and its a dog. i have alot of woods trails, alot of mud, a few sand pits and alittle rock. the mud and pits are the usually spots and i need all the HP i can get. 150HP just doesnt give enough to make the thing move and climb all the washouts. by going with the 4.3 V6 it puts out 200HP stock, slight mods to the motor and i can easily be putting out 300HP. the biggest i want to go is 38's so i'd have plety of power.
also, most of the samurai's i have seen have tracker motors, 2.0's, toy axles, blah blah blah all the same types of mods. i want to go big, i want a more unique sammi. big, alot of HP an keep the body as samurai looking as possible(i love the look of em). i enjoy just going out and having fun in my samurai, but when i try something and dont make it, it makes me want a rig that can. i've always lived by the go big or go home mentality. im going big bc i wont go home without making every obstical i try. it'll be a big samurai, it will take away from the light and small meaning of the samurai, but its what i want, i can see it being a badass rig and being something i would love. so thats what im going to work towards.
i've done a good bit of research and from what i can tell rebuilding the motor(will be done before its tore apart), fitting everything and doing a 4-link front and rear will be the hardest parts of the build. but im confident in my ability to build it and have it done by this time next year. i'll have the motor and axles rebuilt before i tear it down. i want to mock everything; motor, driveline, 4 link together. test them then tear it down and go through the frame, strengthen and make "rust proof". then go through the body and replace panels, floor pan and "rust proof" that. and for all that i'll have 5-6 months of cold, snow covered weather where i wouldnt be able to drive it anyhow
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Im suprised to see you didnt get more responses to your posts when you ran into trouble. Did you post elsewhere for help?
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no, i just went outside and figured it out. wnt through everything i could go through to figure it out.
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so pulled my transfer case today, and found that i had 1 of 8 transfer case bolts holding the transfer case to the mighty kong... 4 the bolt heads were gone, 3 was missing and one was still there. could have been the transfer case movement problem :P so going to drill and tap them and replace all 8 bolts and see what happens...
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Use a bit of lock tight so they don't work their way out. It tends to cause the case to break for some reason. :D
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yea i didnt use lock tight the first time bc i was rushing to get it together, so one worked its way out, then another and then they started snapping. seems to just have caused a chain reaction... but this time it will definetly get lock tight-ed!
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got all the snapped off bolts out, accidently drilled a hole in one of the bolt holes, it went into the tcase. put some thread sealer and loctite on that bolt and seems to be holding up. but replaced all 8 bolts. loctited them in and she seems to be doing alot better now. bolts are yet to back out and that hole is yet to give me a problem. so its back to some wheelin. hopefully can get some pics of today adventure. my threads been lacking them!!! :P
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JB-Weld is your friend. :D
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in order to jb weld it i would have had to split the cases and all that and i really didnt feel like doing that lol. so i just put some thread sealer on the bolt and sent it. seems to be holding up fine
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They will work loose again. Sami's seem to shake bolts loose all the time. I tried all kidns of loctite with no solution. Just check all the drivetrain bolts every couple months. It will save you alot of trouble.
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they do seem to do that alot! i have been. i do it every couple weeks just to be safe. especially with the one bolt bc if that works loose i'll have transfer case fluid everywhere. and i dont want that!!
but i have come up with this winters project for my sammi, many will disagree with it but im doing it bc its what i want.
-4.3L V6 that im rebuilding myself
-1ton axles
-4link, air shocks and stretching between 101"-104"
-replacing floor pan and rusted out body panels
-fuel cell
-roll cage
-possibly moving the radiator the rear with electric fans, depending on how the steering fits after the stretch
-and possibly more little things that i see as i go through the build
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Interesting,you bought a lifted very capable little Samurai and were "bragging" on its abilities,how it could "out-wheel" the Jeeps in your neck of the woods.First time you try muddin with the Big Boys you got stuck and felt like the Samurai was not all you thought.So now you basically want to tear down the entire drivetrain and build a Big Boys play rig...right???These Samurai's are "niche" vehicles that by virtue of the small size/light wieght can generaly outwheel or outmanuever larger rigs,thats why WE love them!!Do what I've done,keep that Samurai like it is,go find a full size you can LIFT and mud with.Got a stock (for now) '86 Samurai 4x4 AND a '97 Dodge excab 4x4 Laramie SLT with 4:11 gears and Lockers rollin 38.5x15 Swampers TSL SX.
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i do out wheel most of the jeeps in my neck of the woods. and thats out wheel by in the trails, through rock cuts, etc.. i went muddin with 700hp mud trucks running 54"+ ag tires. it was a benefit for my friend that passed away and no one knew how bad the mud hole would be. and thats not why i want to rebuild my samurai. that is why i put 6.5:1 tcase gears. i burnt my clutch up in the mud and didnt want to keep doing that. if i wanted a mud truck i would build a full sized mud truck. but my rig will be for some mudding and alot of trails. and with where i wheel its alot of rocks, and rock climbs. the samurai's short wheel base does fine on most, but for the more challenging ones it would just flip over. and thats no good. so im stretching the wheel base, giving it stronger axles and bigger tires.
i understand why samurai's are loved, smaller, lighter trail rigs. and i love that about mine, but its short wheel base has its disadvantages. and it still will be lighter than alot of rigs. but for my first samurai i want to build it to have higher HP, 1tons and bigger tires. and what is the point of modifying a vehicle? to make it what you want. thats what i want for this one. so when your paying for MY build, then try to tell me what to do. but until that day i will spend MY money to build MY rig how i want. and you can build whatever you want. and unless you have something helpful to say, or maybe positive feedback, you can keep your 2 fucking cents off my damn build thread!
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Are you going to lift it or just cut out your fenders to keep it as low as possible and get your lift from the tires?
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im going to have to lift it more, but not alot, then get the rest with cutting fenders and what not. but with stretching my WB and running full sized axles alittle more lift is okay bc of how much wider and longer i'll be compared to now. i know a few people with 1 ton jeeps stretched to 103"-104" and they are between 7-8 ft tall at the top of the roof. they arent too bad as far as roll overs. my sammi is just over 6 ft tall. and im going to be 100"-103"WB with 1tons. so i have some room to lift and still be stable.
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Never seen such "explenative's" on this fourm,dude. Just sad that some of us Samurai fanatics see another Samurai being tore down :(...relax!!
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well im doing something alittle different than most other samurai guys. im not content with spending alot of money to build yota axles and put a 1.6, 2.0 or 1.9 deisel in it when i could get stronger axles off the start with dana 60's and more HP from a V6.
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got my 4.3 V6 out of the donor s10 today. here are some pics of it. going to start tearing it apart tomorrow!
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been plugging away on getting the engine tore down. have the heads cleaned up and painted. started cleaning up the block real well. next is to paint it, and start reassembling it!
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So is it going to be street lega still?
Might be easyer to build a custom frame to fit the motor/drivetrian and suspension and just bolt the Samurai body on it, rather then cuting and modifying the stock frame. It would be way easyer to fit the suspension links and stuff in then, I'm really noticing how much easyer it would be and I'm just three linking the front with a Toyota diff.
Oh, and the 7-10 grand was for 4wheel hydraulic steering and rock assault housings with ARB air lockers front&rear ;). With stock Toyota housings and longfield shafts, ARB up front and spooled rear you could buy and completely rebuild them for probably about $3000.
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oh yea it'll still be street legal. im not giving up being able to drive it to where i want to wheel.
yes and no probably. idk. but i dont see modifying my frame that hard. im only straightening the front of the frame and then welding in new motor mounts, transmission crossmember and boxing in the end. none of which is that difficult. and i only need 6feet of box, not 15 or so to make a whole frame. plus the time. i should be able to redo my frame in a night or two in the shop, couldnt build a frame in that amount of time. i just see this as being easier.
still that is $3000. i just bought a dana 44 front and a dana 60 rear for $500. all i have to do is repack the bearings and weld my link mounts on it and im good to go. thats a $2500 difference lol.
im going with things that i can get good deals on, a full S10 with a V6 came up for sale from a friend for $200. awesome deal. then my cousin asked me if i wanted his dana 44 front and dana 60 rear for $500. just rebuilt last year and ready to go. another awesome deal. so thats what i have.
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Couple of bad-a** Samurai's to give you insperation!!Off the internet and couple other Forums.
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the first one is sick, and i love the color of the 3rd one! the other two look like straight mudders though
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Doing a great job on the Zuk. I'm a big fan of bigger is better too. ;D ;D
Just started a build thread here that may give you some ideas.
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/zuk-on-38's/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/zuk-on-38's/)
Have a build thread on the ZK that is futher along that may help if you like what you see in the 1st link.
http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942 (http://www.zukikrawlers.com/showthread.php?t=44942)
Heres a pic of mine on 38's
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Tan Zuk i love you build, i already have the link in my favorites bar. i look at it to get ideas while im drawing stuff up. Zuk on 38's is an awesome build, and you did a top notch job man!!!!
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Tan Zuk i love you build, i already have the link in my favorites bar. i look at it to get ideas while im drawing stuff up. Zuk on 38's is an awesome build, and you did a top notch job man!!!!
Thanks, Glad that you are getting something out of my build. Just trying to share the knowledge.
BTW there are several v6 swaps on the ZK that may help with you motor swap.
Nice chatting with you Terry
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well it is good knowledge that i am soaking up! thank you. i've seen a few on there thank you.
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got the samurai up to my new house. i dont move until the first of the year, but the guy let me get her in the garage before snow comes. i will be starting a new build thread around that time when i can get up there and start building. have my plan ready and parts coming in already. heres the final plan
-v6
-dana 44 front, dana 60 rear
-flat the front of the frame
-dove the rear(frame and body)
-rebuild the floor and back half of the body
-zues button body
-roll cage
-move the radiator to the rear
-fuel cell
-new seats and 5point harness's
planned on linking it front and rear but bc of cost of the build and buying a new house i'll have to stick to leafs front and rear.