ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: PierPaul on November 24, 2011, 06:27:13 PM
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i start drawing a suspension kit for my personal use that include
-custom a arm
-front diff drop bracket 2 inch
-front and rear coil spacer 3 inch
- strut spacer 3 inch
-idler arm brace
-third lick upper diff spacer
- trailing arm
- driving spacer
- body lift
i have to give some drawings for my local machine shop so i will share you my drawings, if it be for help some one for personal use only commercial use is prohibited i plan to start the projet in few week
for now, some render of my a-arms (its only a sketch with not real measure but its a start)
(http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/5931/95222438.jpg)
(http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/9315/61814782.jpg)
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hopefully your A-arm design moves the wheel base forward.
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yes I would probably.
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Check out the Altered Ego 4.5" lift kit for some tips/ideas on your A-arms and mounting the strut while kicking the front wheels forwards. I am pleased as punch with the Altered Ego kit i installed this past summer.
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yes for sure i go in that optic but what i plan is a easy and detail drawing for a DIY kit for every one want a custom kit as a affordable price
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nice work! love to see things getting worked out in CAD.. I have a sidekick frame print with dimensions on it that might help you out..
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yes for sure i go in that optic but what i plan is a easy and detail drawing for a DIY kit for every one want a custom kit as a affordable price
That is most cool!
Thank you for your efforts!
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Hutch, your print will be use full can you send it please
thank
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nice work! love to see things getting worked out in CAD.. I have a sidekick frame print with dimensions on it that might help you out..
I would appreciate it if I could have a Gen. 1 " sidekick frame print with dimensions on it" also. I am modifying my Tracker in December for my Birthday & Christmas presents, and it would be very helpful.
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some news.... i start the project next monday. today i put the kick in the garage start removing some body part. picture are coming.
have nice weekend everyone
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pictures and lots of them as im sure alot of peeps would be interested in another affordable lift
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Today nothing really interesting,i just start remove cab support. It was easier than i thought. 4 support on 8 was just so rusty i remove than with a hammer and a chisel (i have to rebuilt a lot of part of the body.... car from Quebec aged very poorly )
For the rest i just follow the step by Step here http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-body-removal-pics-and-steps/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-body-removal-pics-and-steps/)
I plan remove the body tomorrow
picture below
i try one of my new snow shoes cooper 31-10.5x15 on old school chrome wheel (seem to be lift, its just the crane on the tail)
(http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/9660/projetsidekick.jpg)
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/5158/projetsidekick1.jpg)
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6633/projetsidekick2.jpg)
(http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/7074/projetsidekick4.jpg)
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/9604/projetsidekick7.jpg)
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First photo of your Kicker looks good, then the pain begins. It is amazing what a good coat of paint can hide. In western Wa. we have corrosion from running on the beaches and in saltwater, also salted city streets, but after the first photo I did not expect to see that much GONE!!!!
It will be interesting to see where you go with this.
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Ready for take off ....
(http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3740/projetsidekick234.jpg)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/3237/projetsidekick235.jpg)
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/8067/projetsidekick236.jpg)
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No matter how tempting, I stay away from the salt water baths, I can go and drive on some areas of beach close to me too, but having an almost rust free Tracker, I don't even like to drive mine on salted or in the case here, brine washed roads. That's what the beater pick up is for :laugh: I can't imagine trying to resurrect a body with that much rust. Give me the desert any day.
Good luck with the project, looks like you'll need some.
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Today i received my rear shocks, monroe sensatrac 37117. i found a sheet from monroe that i have add some detail. My body is outside and i'm ready to start take dimensions
(http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8899/projetsidekick37.jpg)
link for big size http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1549/monroeshockschart12.jpg (http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1549/monroeshockschart12.jpg)
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1549/monroeshockschart12.jpg)
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/60/projetsidekick31.jpg)
(http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/2529/projetsidekick3.jpg)
(http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/4205/projetsidekick34.jpg)
(http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/8035/projetsidekick36.jpg)
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IIRC those are the same rear shocks I got with the AE 4.5" lift kit,,,blew one shock within the first 100 miles >:(
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IIRC those are the same rear shocks I got with the AE 4.5" lift kit,,,blew one shock within the first 100 miles >:(
Is the rear realy lift of 4.5" with shock 3.75 longer than stock ?
you have been maybe just unlucky, these shocks are normaly of a acceteble quality
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sorry, got my #'s all mixed up, I didnt remember correctly, LOL,
The shocks on the 4.5" kit are 37199, they are stock on rav4's,,compressed length 14.375", extended length 24.25",
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Lookin' good. Keep the pics coming. I'm very interested in the CAD stuff.
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thank for you interest. I'm now busy with my rusty frame, i remove the fuel tank and the rear diff
i cut every thing was damage, and now it's time for rebuilt i got a 1/8 plate that i cut some paper craft of the frame
tonight i plan to start weld in place. next coming...
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6120/projetsidekick13dec1.jpg)
(http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/2977/projetsidekick13dec2.jpg)
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9824/projetsidekick13dec4.jpg)
my part
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3370/projetsidekick13dec5.jpg)
(http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/9342/projetsidekick13dec8.jpg)
(http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9954/projetsidekick13dec9.jpg)
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This is looking good, not counting the rust. While you have everything exposed, and because it looks like you are replacing your trailing arms, you might consider making a 4 link rear suspension. You are already replacing half of it and still have to alter the upper 3rd link if you are raising it.
Also, check your body mount supports, my front ones started to collapse and I don't have the rust you are showing. I just plated the sides after straightening them.
Nice work.
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What are your plans for chassis covering? I would seriously consider investing in some Chassis-Saver to protect the frame from future corrosion.
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yes BDR HNTR, when i see your projet i'm interested to did the 4 links. But i want be lowrider with my mod on my truck because laws in quebec are strict on frame weld. So i will just put spacer between diff and 3 link suport like AE kits, for the front, your are right, i already cut and bend my plate for bracing the front, i also put a tube inside the front tube (picture soon)
for the frame, it's sure when i will all clean. I want paint, and or protect with i don't know what , i need some tips.
..pictures of my hd build. i continue tomorrow grind (i have to flip the frame 90 deg for weld under .)
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7879/projetsidekick15dec8.jpg)
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/7629/projetsidekick15dec7.jpg)
(http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/6184/projetsidekick15dec5.jpg)
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/9826/projetsidekick15dec6.jpg)
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At least it is easy to flip over and weld, instead of welding overhead.
Yes the local laws on what you can do to your vehicle does stifle a creative mind (if you are aware of them).
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That is amazing work you are doing. But I think you should have taken a vacation out here to the west coast and got another Tracker. We are scrapping them out without rust. (Like I should talk, I spend weeks going over wiring diagrams, and more weeks actually merging them together to have something only I can understand how it is working.)
It looks good, and I enjoy following it, but Wow it is rusty. I do like your coil spacer idea, thanks for sharing.
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Today i lift my rear , i placed my shocks, my coils and his spacers, and my 3rd link spacer. I ordered my rods ends for my new rear link.
I'm off for 2 weeks for chrismas and the new year to get some energy to attack the front for next year. here some plan of my 3rd spacer
and my diff/driving spacer.
(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8703/dsc01843tp.jpg)
diff spacer bigger :http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2863/36005329.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2863/36005329.jpg)
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2863/36005329.jpg)
(http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/9895/dsc01846ct.jpg)
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8447/dsc01841kw.jpg)
(http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4903/dsc01840a.jpg)
drive shaft spacer : bigger: http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/2355/part8t.jpg (http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/2355/part8t.jpg)
(http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/2355/part8t.jpg)
the rear lift
(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9752/dsc01845gt.jpg)
comming soon
(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8995/dsc01847cl.jpg)
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today i removed all the front ( half of the bolts were broken, but this is my life..) let's start drawing. Personaly im not a mechanic and not a welder so i did what i'm the best , drawing. For the front, the less complicated for me is draw every thing stock, and after study all on cad. i just finish a stock a arms.
(http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/4614/aarm.jpg)
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FYI
I just moved my ball joint forward 1 1/2", and out 3/4". It will now clear 33" tires with OME XLT springs (I also have a V6 sitting on them). I am still putting back together. When I moved the ball joint forward the tires started to toe out significantly, wasn't sure if I would have enough adjustment to get them back straight, so moved the ball joint out 3.4". I had a stub shaft made so I can run drivers side CV's on both sides now, and that requires widening because of the stub shaft.
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drawing continue....
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/4329/frontstock.jpg)
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i finish of piece together the puzzle, so add coils spacer, move forward the ball joint, draw strut spacer with offset, kick the strut front and draw news a-arms will now a children's play.
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/853/95980543.jpg)
I dream of having a frame clean like this...
(http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/9148/63864328.jpg)
(http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/3705/81327749.jpg)
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Great work and detail. Really impressive so far. Did you salvage that Trackick from the bottom of the ocean? ;D
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I am going to slot the strut holes to correct for camber angles. But it is interesting that shaving the strut spacer 5 degrees should correct the camber. (I will have to see if my friend has his milling machine working.)
I thought you were referring to correction needed by moving ball joint 1.5 inches forward. I see that AE has angled their strut spacers to correct for their strut modifications.
I just ran clearance tests with 33x12.5x15's on (no springs) and at bump stops I am just hitting the front of wheel well (bottom of headlight housing) at full turn. An 1.25" on ball joint move might prevent this and still clear the back of wheel well/floor pan. I am modifying the bottom of headlight housing & wheel well liner.
It is amazing what you can do with your CAD program. My brain was running one direction when you were referring to something different.
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the project advance well... i have build my diff drop bracket and installed,i have receive rear drive line spacer . i built my front pan support and my bracket for strut and knockle, i have receive all the stuff for a-arms tommorow and for strut spacer. picture comming
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here some pics of the works did...
the right a-arms try
(http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/6895/21janvier19.jpg)
my cross section with weld nut for future body pan
(http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/5318/21janvier20.jpg)
(http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/8605/21janvier21.jpg)
diff drop bracket
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/6626/21janvier22.jpg)
(http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/7449/21janvier23.jpg)
coil spacer...
(http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/7069/21janvier24.jpg)
strut/knocle bracket
(http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/4848/21janvier28.jpg)
the a-arms assembled (i have to angled some flat bar for cv clearance
(http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/1158/21janvier29.jpg)
braced idler arm
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/4868/21janvier32.jpg)
(http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/1863/21janvier33.jpg)
all coils and it spacer
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5537/21janvier34.jpg)
finaly my tires freshly studed
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/3189/21janvier36.jpg)
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6227/21janvier37.jpg)
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On your idler bracket, the weak spot is the idler pin usually bends. I built a brace to go on the bottom of the idler and welded it to the A arm support.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S1qQAKoOlOI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/HWAYoB8Nloc/s800/CIMG0355.JPG)
This will prevent the idler pin from bending, because it is attached on both top and bottom.
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On your idler bracket, the weak spot is the idler pin usually bends. I built a brace to go on the bottom of the idler and welded it to the A arm support.
([url]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S1qQAKoOlOI/AAAAAAAAGEQ/HWAYoB8Nloc/s800/CIMG0355.JPG[/url])
This will prevent the idler pin from bending, because it is attached on both top and bottom.
thank for the comment. i will do this modification when i part off the body for painting
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This week, i finish the frame and suspension i also put the cab on, for body lift fab ( i must rebuilt half of body mount). I remove everything that was in the cab and i start cut rust from the floor. I cut side rockers.... sorry not cut just touch it and they go away .
In my case 2x4 tube for rock slider was not just a option but is a obligation. I cut the speed shifter and the tc shifter and i threaded the part was left in the mecanic after i weld a nut on a sleeve that i weld on the other part of shifter so my shifter can be unscrew to be not cumbersome for cab fix. So here some pictures of the final height of truck and rusty work be left >:D
(http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/3338/sidekick27janv7.jpg)
(http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/5159/sidekick27janv8.jpg)
(http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/4149/sidekick27janv10.jpg)
(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/378/sidekick27janv2.jpg)
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3692/sidekick27janv11.jpg)
(http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/392/sidekick27janv13.jpg)
(http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/6553/sidekick27janv3.jpg)
(http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9189/sidekick27janv5.jpg)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/8610/sidekick27janv12.jpg)
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That rust is just amazingly BAD!!! You have a lot of work ahead.
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with that much rust, I would seriously consider trying to find a less rusted body to start with. Make sure you use some type of rust converter. after each weld I would use a spray galv coating and after it dries, use a good primer. on my vehicle I used red oxide primer and eastwood frame coating. after that I used a truck bed liner on all my frame, underbody and even inside the panels in the vehicle. they make a coating from eastwood that has a tube you can seal the inside of the frame. it isnt cheap, but at least use something to spray inside the frame. even rustoleum would be ok. just make sure u seal every weld. but really use the galv spray or a zinc primer. I weld for a living and wouldnt ever use just a regular primer for the welds. they will eventually rust if not sealed good.
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yes tictak, i realy take care of sealed every place of frame/body. for now i rebuilt and assembled every thing for a final big part off and take care of every part for, sand ,prime and paint (i have a `4' x 10' sand blast room in my shop so a lot of part go in there for a small refesh) the room is normaly use for gravestone but i did a exception this time.
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Nice work.
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Looking at all the welding you have done and thinking about how much more you have to do.
I think if you prep your weld areas a little better it will make the welds easier. After I get my parts tacked in place I go over the weld area again with a wire wheel, and find it easier keeping the wire flowing.
Did you make some of your box tubing?
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Looking at all the welding you have done and thinking about how much more you have to do.
I think if you prep your weld areas a little better it will make the welds easier. After I get my parts tacked in place I go over the weld area again with a wire wheel, and find it easier keeping the wire flowing.
Did you make some of your box tubing?
Did you make some of your box tubing? Sorry i don't understand this part...
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Did you make some of your box tubing? Sorry i don't understand this part...
In a couple of the photo's of the rock sliders it looks like you had welded the outside edge of the slider. I just wondered if you had made the rectangle used?
(http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6999/sidekick12fvrier8.jpg)
(http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/9110/sidekick12fvrier10.jpg)
It is a lot of patches, but you seem to be moving right along. At this rate you may beat me to a coat of paint. Keep it up.
I think my sliders are the best modification that I have done to my Tracker. They have saved me the most damage, get used the most, and noticed the least, and were the first mod.
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Yes the rectangle tube makes the truck so much more strong. All sheet i patch go to this tube and now its bullet proof, the first time i try my truck i hit a stump and i break all the shity plastic body off the former owner
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What did you guys do with the wire loom that runs in the drivers's side rocker panel from the front to the rear? I need to remove the rusted out rockers on my rig too. I was going to use a panel of 430 stainless, it has good rust resistance and enough ferrous material that it welds to steel well.
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I cleaned the up side of the door sill and used duct tape to hold it up out of the way. My drivers door still works, but ps has stopped working. It may be the switch.
I used 2x4x1/8 tubing, and have one dent (that rock left a huge dent in the door - good spotter) in it after a couple years.
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i will pass the wire between the 2x4 tube and the framing i use a rope that it will remain there for future wire pass like speaker or for trouble shooting
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Today i did some paper craft, i start my rear bumper i plan to get a quote for laser cut and bend or i go for home made built on local shop bend. so i will see ... picture from cardboard to paper drawing to cad ..
(Sorry for my little girl play ground)
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6866/bumperk.jpg)
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/9541/bumper1.jpg)
(http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/1479/bumper2s.jpg)
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3493/bumper33.jpg)
(http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5246/bumperarr.jpg)
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Nice looking bumper. When we built & bent my front bumper, my nephew went from cardboard to press. It was like Orgami, flat then fold, then bumper.
I have been trying to figure out where to mount a pivot point for spare tire rack on back bumper. I want to set the pivot point so I can have guides on back door that the horizontal run can slide on as the door opens. It should be possible to make this idea work from closed to 90 degrees open (and maybe a little more). Would I make pivot point out and back 45 degrees, and then the offset would remain constant to 90 degrees open? It would be nice to have mount that can carry heavier tire than can be mounted on door, and not have to unfasten every time access needed in back.
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what about make a hidden framing in the existing door and braced and or replaced the original hinge, i told this just for fun i'm not realy sure of what i told. it should be nice for everyday acces at the rear ?...
oh,and today i received quote for laser cut and bend 165$ for all except tube for hitch and assembly. the laser cut is amazing and realy affordable
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That's a great looking rear bumper. While your in the planning stages you may want to consider some pockets for recessed backup lighting.
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thank i very Impatien to receive it , Yes i was thinking about that and i finally decided to dont put rear light,hope i don't regreted.
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Have you thought about just putting some really thick epoxy paint on the cardboard and running it? It looks pretty good as it is and would save you some weight. :D
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Lot of work since my last reply first. i built a winch plate for receive winch and new front bumper. I draw in carboard my front bumper and draw in cad. Finaly i remove all part and cab and did a flip with the cab for finish weld my floor restore, after i use body sealer for all joint and weld. I finaly paint with a epoxy primer and bedliner coating. i very like the result very clean. i did the same thing with the inside i'm at the sealer state. I remove all part from the frame and paint it with epoxy primer i also start sandblast my rusty part for final paint
(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/8335/sidekick13fvrier4.jpg)
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1931/sidekick13fvrier6.jpg)
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/1954/sidekick13fvrier9.jpg)
(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/9181/sidekick13fvrier11.jpg)
(http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5336/sidekick13fvrier10.jpg)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/182/64918102.jpg)
(http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1781/sidekick26fvrier.jpg)
(http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/3117/sidekick26fvrier2.jpg)
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5114/sidekick26fvrier5.jpg)
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/6509/sidekick26fvrier9.jpg)
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2900/sidekick26fvrier7.jpg)
(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4779/sidekick26fvrier15.jpg)
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/215/sidekick26fvrier10.jpg)
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5170/sidekick26fvrier8.jpg)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/4291/sidekick26fvrier19.jpg)
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Wow, you are moving right along. Nice stout winch mount. I would add another lower/upper brace to stiffen it up horizontally (triangulate). I know the bumper will do that somewhat (depending on its mounts), but just my thoughts. I like the slope on the bottom edge of whole bumper. That will help sliding up onto logs and rocks.
Might want a couple more coats of epoxy paint on the cardboard to help during wet weather. :laugh:
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Looks really good PierPaul, I'm working on designing my (some day) to be made setup in a 2d cad program (ProEngineer) as well. What program are you using? I am going to design a SAS setup which once it's done I will share over here as well. (got the chassis and axles in it working out the links atm). The only problem I have is time ;)
Would you be willing to share your files so I can compare them to mine and see if my dimensions are a bit okay ;D?
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ed oorklep, my sofware is Solidworks 2008 and yes i share you my file no problem
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ed oorklep, my sofware is Solidworks 2008 and yes i share you my file no problem
Send ya a pm ;)
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some picture of my paint job ... next step was body
inside body primed
(http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/4406/sidekick29fvrier.jpg)
inside body coated
(http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7199/sidekick29fvrier4.jpg)
frame coated
(http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/4416/sidekick29fvrier7.jpg)
all part sandblasted
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/4204/sidekick29fvrier1.jpg)
painted (Monster energy Green >:D)
(http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/6704/sidekick29fvrier2.jpg)
(http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4033/sidekick29fvrier9.jpg)
(http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7638/sidekick29fvrier11.jpg)
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/8808/sidekick29fvrier10.jpg)
missing on picture my a-arm was at welding
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Looks great, thanks for the file. Now I'm gonna have to work on it again tonight >:D
Here's how far I have come so far:
View while working on it:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6798653824_16d368754b_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58580337|removethispart||removethispart|@N07/6798653824/)
chassis (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58580337|removethispart||removethispart|@N07/6798653824/#) by ed-oorklep (http://www.flickr.com/people/58580337|removethispart||removethispart|@N07/), on Flickr
Quick render thingy
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6798653940_236fffc278_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58580337|removethispart||removethispart|@N07/6798653940/)
chassis2 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58580337|removethispart||removethispart|@N07/6798653940/#) by ed-oorklep (http://www.flickr.com/people/58580337|removethispart||removethispart|@N07/), on Flickr
It's all designed to preserve the ride height I have now (with a 3" BL and 2.5" suspension lift) and 33"tyres.
I'll be working on the links and how to attach them to the frame now, and then steering will be the next issue to tackle...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7053/6798690626_5a187fd649_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58580337|removethispart|@N07/6798690626/)
chassis3 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/58580337|removethispart|@N07/6798690626/#) by ed-oorklep (http://www.flickr.com/people/58580337|removethispart|@N07/), on Flickr
Yours and mine in the same assembly, yours is the gold one, they're looking pretty much exactly the same so should be quite close to the real thing 8)
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nice job, team work as about 3000 miles far, i'm very interest in your sas design maybe you can share your file when you are done
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rust , hah ,. that's nothing ! i have three trackers and my best one is twice as rusty as that one !,,, non kidding! rust is a major issue and i can and do fix or replace the rusted metal , but dont let it stop you if you run into it ! lotsa luck with the project , keep us in the loop
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nice job, team work as about 3000 miles far, i'm very interest in your sas design maybe you can share your file when you are done
Yeah, nice team work indeed :). I'll share my sas design when it's done off course.
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Nice "rustoration", this is a really inspiring build.
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I'm in the last straight line, i finished today paint body part. (Note to myself, never retry paint a car in the shop) the result is not bad but im not very satisfied. I use paint gun and industrial black gloss paint, but it's a rig of trail . I hope friday i can get my steel for bumper and bolt for reassembled all parts ( i ordered zink plated bolts ) some pict of my body paint job and the part i'm the most proud, my a-arm.
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4480/sidekick06mars.jpg)
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1042/sidekick06mars1.jpg)
(http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/9788/sidekick06mars2.jpg)
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/5306/sidekick06mars4.jpg)
(http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2923/sidekick06mars5.jpg)
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7918/sidekick06mars7.jpg)
(http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2804/sidekick06mars10.jpg)
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/2286/sidekick06mars12.jpg)
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Amazing transformation. Thats a nice big shop you have there, so, are you retired? How do you find the time for all this?
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Moving right along at a crazy fast pace. You are making me look bad lol.
Not sure how I feel about the lime green but I guess it goes with the "Monster Energy" theme you are after. Did you conciser switching out the rear drums for disks ? It certainly seems like you have the fabrication abilities to build your own caliper mount.
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I'm realy far of be retired i'm only 23 year old and for the time me and my father are in school bus company in winter so between run i have time for my project about 2 hours for morning, and 2 hour for afternoon and this week we are in Spring Break but summer is a other thing we are in funerary monument so we are realy busy in the summer and relax winter.
yea i also consider swap for disc brake at the rear but for now i did a lot of works so i will try the truck like this, and maybe next year did some upgrade.
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23 years old! You've got some mad skills young man!, keep up the great work ;D Having a space big enough to work on a bus sure makes things a bit easier I imagine. So after looking at the logos from the pics I'm still trying to guess where your at, Quebec maybe?
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Yes your right we are from quebec, farther north about 5 hours from Montreal
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You are very talented and a hard worker.
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Today, i worked on the inside of the truck. I got 1/16" aluminium plate ( yes at least one thing in that truck can't rust :laugh:) and i shear my plate at local work shop after i finish cut and hole with zip cut. i know it's not very original but i like the result and it's maintenance free. i also receive my mufler and my fuel tank, the both was destroy by rust. when i finish the truck it's sure i reserve a place in my home garage.
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4199/sidekick07mars1.jpg)
(http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9434/sidekick07mars.jpg)
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/6153/sidekick07mars2.jpg)
(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/214/sidekick07mars3.jpg)
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5750/sidekick07mars4.jpg)
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Still looking good! :)
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The reassembly go fast, i plan start my front and rear bumpers tomorow, for now some picture of my work of today.
(http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/828/sidekicksamedi.jpg)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5969/sidekicksamedi1.jpg)
(http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/227/sidekicksamedi4.jpg)
(http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/3209/sidekicksamedi5.jpg)
(http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/3631/sidekicksamedi9.jpg)
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6807/sidekicksamedi11.jpg)
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Nice work. You are still moving really fast.
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i finaly done my bumpers i realy like the final result and i'm very impatient to ride it. but yesterday i order the front drag link ,so it will take about one week to recieve it, for the moment picture of my bumpers.
(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9155/sidekick19mars5.jpg)
(http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/4268/sidekick19mars4.jpg)
(http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7355/sidekick19mars3.jpg)
(http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/3429/sidekick19mars2.jpg)
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The bumper fitment looks excellent, they appear as though they can take a beating.
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They do look good, I especially like that receiver on the back, although it may be a little low for me. And that exhaust pipe may get flattened out.
From your first photos, I would have thought it would take much longer for this transformation. Now for the action shots, and enjoyment of what you have created.
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WOW, great work... 8) when I was reading through this the other day I meant to suggest that you raise the gas tank since you had everything apart.... but it looks like you fit it nice and tight against the body anyway 8)
Zig
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Yes i rise the tank about 2 1/2"
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now i can ride my truck so happy very fun to ride maybe this weekend i will try in offroad
(http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/7594/finmarssidekick.jpg)
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/3255/finmarssidekick1.jpg)
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1763/finmarssidekick2.jpg)
(http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/919/finmarssidekick3.jpg)
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Very nice. It will be good to get it out again. I was just able to get mine on the road also. I have enjoyed following your build.
Now lets see some off road shots.
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Looks good, but I think it would look better with a soft top. Luckily I would be willing to swap you. :D
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I did some try off-road very nice. i like my mini truck and saturday i was try in the shore of Lake i found a very deep mud place, so i used my winch. ;D (note to myself: never i said never go muding without roof and top) 1" of mud on seat and dash i have to watering all the, but i do very nice picture, oh i also got firestone discovery 31/10.5/15 but to dirty to see. For next i will replace cv axel ,start making noise (noise was ear before modified) and finaly monster energy graphic kit >:D.
(http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/764/avril2012v.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9548/avril20124.jpg)
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Good photo's. Nice to have it running again, isn't it?
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this has been a great write up ...awesome work u have done there ......as for finding a rust free tracker up here in canada pffft good luck iv had mine now for 5 yrs and it was virtualy rust free (southern truck) and as time goes on i find myself replacing rust with new metal ....thank u raod salt and maritime winters ..
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Nice execution PierPaul. I remember looking at this thread more then 6mons ago.....in that time you not only designed your own suspension, you build it, did major frame/body/bumper work and also completed other valuable mods. Then you put it all together and painted it up to look like a finished product. All of this and you documented it to the T.....Congratulations, you make me feel like a slacker on my projects...... ;)
-BTW- Thanks for sharing all the info....Also I'm kinda curious as to what is next?
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Thancks for all i did this projet first for me but im prood to share my project. im also learn a lot of think with brd hntr
for now my kick go very well im not did a lot off road for now but will comming so i wait a bit for next upgrade ... maybe locker or solid axe.... ??? only god can tell
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/3977/juinsidekick8.jpg)
(http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3388/juinsidekick5.jpg)
(http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9318/juinsidekick.jpg)
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That looks just great, especially after the seeing all the rust you started with.I have enjoyed folllowing your build, and will be watching for what is next.
If you ever decide to run out west, or to Moab, let me know. I would enjoy meeting and looking over your Buiild.
Very Nice.
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what did you use for the fender flares?
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i order flexy flare 2 1/2" very easy to install and they are great rubber realy tough
http://pacerperformance.com/ (http://pacerperformance.com/)
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That is incredible the amount of work you were able to get done! I wish my ride was coming along that quickly! Keep us posted! ;D
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just a little night shot, i never regret all job done on i this truck.
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/9012/sidekick2.jpg)
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/8356/sidekick11.jpg)
(http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/55/sidekick8.jpg)
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/1715/sidekick3.jpg)
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last week i install light bar and 6x hella 500 more pic soon the result is awesome
(http://imageshack.us/a/img267/4898/hella500.jpg)