ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: HydroMachinist on September 15, 2011, 12:03:57 PM
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I picked up a two piece hard top for my 95 Tracker but the rear glass was broken out hence the excellent price of $95. Where would you suggest I start looking for a replacement glass (dealer or aftermarket) other than Lexan. My local glass shop said they only have a number for a glue in rear window. Any help greatly appreciated.
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depending on the top i have a back window that mounts to the tailgate
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If it looks like this, with or without roof rack, and has 4 screws holding the side glass in , then it's a Bestop and they no longer carry parts. You'll probably have to improvise. Good luck and please post your fix.
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You could have a piece made and tempered or go with a polycarbonate
replacement, that's what aircraft windshields are made of
Wild
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I would make a cardboard template and cut new replacement windows out of lexan and use 3M Windoweld to glue it in.
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Starting on my fix before the snow flies. I was lucky, already had the window weld (was going to glue the hood cowl trim on my sister's '99 Concorde). This is my other Bestop hardtop (sans roof rack). I tried the factory application by drilling holes at the mounting locations, but after 1 winter, the expansion/contraction stress cracked at the holes. For sealing, I had used RV weather stripping. That didn't seal very well due to the flexible nature of plastic (factory side glass is rigid). I'm just mocking up for now. I'll probably use double faced tape to apply horizontal 1/4" luan plywood rips across the clamp locations so to protect the plastic, distribute the force, and add shims, behind it, to apply force in the middle of the longer sections. I gladly accept suggestions. Thanks
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1/4" plexiglass material would be less prone to flex and seal better
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Thanks for the suggestion wildgoody. I tested 1/4" plexiglass but it is thicker than the recess in some spots and sticks out beyond the hardtop opening, hence, no longer flush with the hardtop surface. I'm committed to the 1/8" as the windows are already cut and rough fitted. If this doesn't work I might try 1/4". It won't be my 1st failure. ;D
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The 1/4" plexi is stronger, and flex's less, but that will make install and retension an issue. Alot more clamping pressure will be required to get the plexi to make a uniform seal and it will more than likely distort the fiberglas top. I would clamp it into position and then use a heat source to heat the plexi and take the tension of being curved out of it. This will also make it less prone to shattering/cracking/leaking after the WindoWeld cures.
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That's a good point, I had assumed that the original glass was a flat piece,
but if there is a curve in it, the thicker plexiglass might not seal properly
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Yes, the Bestop side glass is convex.
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Finished product.
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WindowWeld & clamped. This should have preceded the finished product post.
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Turned out nice, good job!
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Thank you talonxracer. HydroMachinist, I have 1 original side glass that I'm going to save, if you have a Bestop hardtop, I could make you a template and mail it to you.
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Thanks mine is a lot easier its the rear glass not the side... good post though very informative with the pics. When I start doing mine will do the same.
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Finished product.
Nice job ranger,I had one shatter on my bestop, how is the 1/8 inch holding up? Also curious where you found the tinted lexon, home depot has 18x24 sheets for around $25, but clear only. Thanks
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Finished product.
Nice job ranger,I had one shatter on my bestop, how is the 1/8 inch holding up? Also curious where you found the tinted lexon, home depot has 18x24 sheets for around $25, but clear only. Thanks
Not good I'm afraid. The plastic pulled away from the top. Seems the Plastic was too slick for the windowweld but I probably should have tried to form the plastic to the convex shape as suggested. I'm going to try another route where I won't have to worry about breaking or scratching and it can be bolted in as the original. 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. It'll look like a little panelwagen. ;D
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Finished product.
Nice job ranger,I had one shatter on my bestop, how is the 1/8 inch holding up? Also curious where you found the tinted lexon, home depot has 18x24 sheets for around $25, but clear only. Thanks
Not good I'm afraid. The plastic pulled away from the top. Seems the Plastic was too slick for the windowweld but I probably should have tried to form the plastic to the convex shape as suggested. I'm going to try another route where I won't have to worry about breaking or scratching and it can be bolted in as the original. 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. It'll look like a little panelwagen. ;D
Hmm, that might look awesome specially on my black on black. Auto zone had some window weld "ribbon" soft gasket like material, do you have any experience with that material? I have a friendly local auto glass shop I will check on what they might have also.
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Update- replacement glass would be $300+duhh! I noticed the 3m window weld asks for a primer to be applied on "glass" before the urethane window weld. Maybe that was your top release problem? I'm going to a plastic supply house tomorrow ( 1/8,3/16,1/4 choices) and see what they would advise re : thickness and fastening. Will pass on results.
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I was a ASE Master Auto Body tech (gave up renewal in
2002). Not bragging, just tossing some credibility.
Urethane adhesives should always have a primer matched
to that particular adhesive ie Sika, 3M, etc.
In addition with Plexy I'd take 600 grit sandpaper and lightly
rough up the bond area. Use masking tape to avoid damaging
adjoining Plexy. After sanding, use a good solvent like 99%
alcohol to wipe the bond area (careful and use only a bit).
Allow to dry completely and then use your primer, then urethane.
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Yeah, I probably should have read the directions :), you know what they say about hindsight. Oh well, live and learn.
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Plastic shop is using " good" window as template, same thickness as glass,cut and drill holes, lexan. Sundance, what would you recommend for installation? Window weld? Window weld ribbon? Just bead silicon and see if the 4 corners seal the perimeter? Thanks
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Update:
Rough cut diamond plate but have to drill holes for screws, roll to conform to top and fit to opening.
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I ended up using window weld ribbon (with the primer) holding up good so far, even after some sub zero nights and Arizona temps. That diamond plate looks great, please pics.
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I ended up using window weld ribbon (with the primer) holding up good so far, even after some sub zero nights and Arizona temps. That diamond plate looks great, please pics.
Glad it worked out for you and good to know. I saved my plastic windows so if the diamond plate project goes south, I'll try them again. I'm pretty slow with my projects so it'll probably be awhile but will post pics upon completion.
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Getting close. The top is in my van. I have threaded rod & turnbuckles holding it's shape.
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I found a old rally top that is missing the windows for fairly cheap. I was thinking of a wood panel like your diamond plate, reminiscent of an old 40'-50's style delivery truck but have it say "4x4 extreme delivery service" or some such bs, stained and epoxy sealed it should last as long as the anything else on the truck.... LOL
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I found a old rally top that is missing the windows for fairly cheap. I was thinking of a wood panel like your diamond plate, reminiscent of an old 40'-50's style delivery truck but have it say "4x4 extreme delivery service" or some such bs, stained and epoxy sealed it should last as long as the anything else on the truck.... LOL
I was thinking the same thing today while driving to get some material, kinda like an old wood sided station wagon. Maybe some thin marine plywood & urethane.
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I was at the wood working shop the other day and noticed they had small wood lettering and was checking them out, stain and/or paint them, have someone airbrush a skull with crossed rods w/pistons....I have some marine grade epoxy for clear coating wood decks that would be perfect for keeping it looking excellent for a long time.
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Yeah, did you see the Trucks episode on PowerBlock, I think it was called "Old School", an old Ford P/U, where Kevin Tetz aged the lettering paint, that would be cool.