ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Technical Discussion - Beginner / Repair => Topic started by: XEARLX on August 27, 2011, 10:11:46 AM
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Okay so i got all the wiring finished in the truck. now here comes the problems.....
i turn my lights in and the running lights come which is all the turn signals. Both tail lights do not turn on at all. the headlights work and all but when i go to put a turn signal on the running lights dont blink once. i cant seem to figure it out. i did all the wireing right but i dont see why my turn signals and tail lights wouldnt work. Also on my cluster when i turn the lights on the cluster reads that both turn signals are on at all times. its retarded.
Please help with any information or ideas you can give.
Thanks, Earl
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I think you need to let us know exactly what you've done - it sounds like you have rewired the truck, and whilst you think you have it right, since it's not working the way you expect, that pretty much says you have something wrong.
Turn signals & running lights are not the same to me - and whilst some vehicles do use the same lamps, they are frequently double filament bulbs on separate circuits. To further confuse things, domestic (american manufactured) vehicles sometimes use single filament bulbs for both turn signal and running lamp functions in the same fixture, but no Suzuki I've ever seen uses this type of wiring.
So - exactly what have you done, and is there a diagram that you used - perhaps you followed the original Suzuki wiring and used your own fixtures - perhaps you wired it off the top of your head.
If I had to guess I would say you're using single filament turn signals as running lamps & turn signals (domestic american style) and you're missing the controller that a domestic car would use, because the Zuk never had it.
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and sometimes the bulbs are hot all the time and the switch grounds the lights to make them work.
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I think Mrfuelish hit the problem, Suzuki's are wired very different from
US vehicles, and it shows that there is more than one way to wire a car
correctly.
Suzuki uses the switches that turn on the lights as a ground, which in
fact completes the circuit and lights the bulb, my guess is that you wired
it American style and it's giving you issues
Wild
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I think you guys are right with the whole domestic VS import. but i cant seem to figure it out.
I rewired the truck basically but all i did was remove the shit wires that weren't being used and fixed the messed up tail lights cause the wiring was so haggard and half the turn signals didnt work. not sue where ai went wrong but at the moment im ready to give the hell up and buy a new harness on ebay or something
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Suzuki does use negative or ground switching, but only for the headlights - all other lighting circuits are hot switched - so if he's working on tail lights & running lights then negative switching is not a factor.
Are you still using the original lamps or have those been changed?
If you have replaced the lamps, how many bulbs and what type do they use - Suzuki uses a double filament bulb for stop & tail, and single filament bulbs for all other lamps, and each lamp is "single purpose" - park lamps are separate from turn signals,
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the tails and turnsignals have been replaced. the tail lights are double filament bulbs and the turnsignals are single but im not sure why when i turn the lights on only the two turn signals in the tailgate turn on and the tail lights dont until you hit the break. but the front turn signals only turn on as well when the lights come on. but they both also have been replaced. ill upload pictures in a bit.
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i turn my lights in and the running lights come which is all the turn signals.
the tails and turnsignals have been replaced. the tail lights are double filament bulbs and the turnsignals are single
Can I assume that you have the same single filament bulb wired to work as running light and turn signal?
Suzuki uses separate bulbs and separate circuits so it won't work the way you expect it to unless you modify the wiring to isolate the two functions.
My suggestion is that you fit separate running lights & turn signals and if necessary visit Ack's FAQ for the appropriate wiring diagram to correctly rewire the "rewiring" job.
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thanks man. i figured out the problem tonight with a littile help from you guys. ;D
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NO, NO, NO, You got to share what was wrong for others to read about
That's the rules
Wild
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well at first it turned out that i wired the running lights wire and turn signal wire together so that was no good. had to replace that and from there i got my turn signals to all work. after that the tail lights i got to come on as running lights but when i hit the break they weren't lighting up much more so i think i may need to get new bulbs. Not to sure
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Thanks!
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well at first it turned out that i wired the running lights wire and turn signal wire together so that was no good. had to replace that and from there i got my turn signals to all work. after that the tail lights i got to come on as running lights but when i hit the break they weren't lighting up much more so i think i may need to get new bulbs. Not to sure
My guess as to the turn signals/running lights was spot on - let's see how close I get with the brake lights.
You say the tail lights come on, but when you brake they aren't lighting up much more - assuming that means that they do get brighter, but not as bright as they should, the bulbs are OK, but the sockets are wired incorrectly - there are three wires, ground, tail & stop - you have two of the wires flipped, my guess is the ground & tail light.
If you can remove the bulb from the lamp, do that and look at the bulb itself - with tail lights on, only one filament should be lit, with brake on (and tail off) the other filament should be lit, and with tail & brake, both should be lit.
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This ground switching can be very confusing, IT JUST AIN'T NORMAL!!!
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well at first it turned out that i wired the running lights wire and turn signal wire together so that was no good. had to replace that and from there i got my turn signals to all work. after that the tail lights i got to come on as running lights but when i hit the break they weren't lighting up much more so i think i may need to get new bulbs. Not to sure
My guess as to the turn signals/running lights was spot on - let's see how close I get with the brake lights.
You say the tail lights come on, but when you brake they aren't lighting up much more - assuming that means that they do get brighter, but not as bright as they should, the bulbs are OK, but the sockets are wired incorrectly - there are three wires, ground, tail & stop - you have two of the wires flipped, my guess is the ground & tail light.
If you can remove the bulb from the lamp, do that and look at the bulb itself - with tail lights on, only one filament should be lit, with brake on (and tail off) the other filament should be lit, and with tail & brake, both should be lit.
Thanks for the help man. that should do it i hope. ill let you know how it turns out.
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This ground switching can be very confusing, IT JUST AIN'T NORMAL!!!
No ground switching here - we're not dealing with the headlights.
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Turns out that didn't work. The ground was the ground and I've got two hots but when I switch the hots they don't work
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Take a look at this diagram:
http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam_no-hitachi.htm (http://www.acksfaq.com/diagram_color_86-88_sam_no-hitachi.htm)
I shows the lamp wiring complete with the color codes indicated.
I hope that this helps!
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That's like a feed back problem on a house, the neutral or ground wire
can show voltage, even bite you but if you ground it, it will show dead
This stuff can be a pain with the false readings
Wild
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US code requires the neutral to be grounded at the building entrance, and the ground, well that should be grounded, shouldn't it?
For vehicle electrical "diagnostics", start by making sure you have a known good reference - use chassis ground or battery negative and you can't go wrong - the other thing is to have an idea as to what voltage you should be looking for at a particular location, and that is where most folks seem to get things screwed.
In this case I would use chassis ground as reference, and start with the tail lights only on, and probe the wiring at the socket - there should be +12V on only one of the three wires - anything else indicates a miswire or an open ground.
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You are correct, but when there is a problem, a feed back can be the result
and a white or neutral wire can show voltage if the hot side is switched on
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In this case I would use chassis ground as reference, and start with the tail lights only on, and probe the wiring at the socket - there should be +12V on only one of the three wires - anything else indicates a miswire or an open ground.
You are correct, but when there is a problem, a feed back can be the result
and a white or neutral wire can show voltage if the hot side is switched on
Both saying same thing, which is what I was going to say.
Working to solve others problem before 8am, means you have not been using your rigs enough to break them (requiring your time and thoughts). I at least waited until almost 9am to speak up (on this subject).
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Working to solve others problem before 8am, means you have not been using your rigs enough to break them (requiring your time and thoughts). I at least waited until almost 9am to speak up (on this subject).
I'm about 3500 miles from home - so web wheeling is the best I can do right now - I go home tomorrow, roughly fourteen hours travel from the time I hit the road, starting with a two hour drive to the airport - it's going to be a looooooooong day.
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Don't forget some of the lights use the body for the ground. I have had turn signals stop working due to the front ground being dirty.
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A bad or open ground on the tail light cluster will usually manifest itself as the tail lights coming on and then going out when the brakes are depressed, along with flashing "out of sync" with the turn signals
You get current flowing from the tail light circuit, through the tail light filiament, and instead of going directly to ground, through the rear turn signal filaments through the front turn signal filiaments to the front ground - of course - if you're not using the factory tail light clusters and factory wiring, these symptoms may change.