ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: zuki1018 on July 11, 2011, 08:08:31 AM
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Just a source of info on the current build I am working on. More to come.
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To kick this off, here is the short version of history:
1987 Sami:
Rebuilt all seals front and rear knuckles & axles.
Installed Lock-Right front and rear stock sami axles.
Calmini 3" lift springs.
RR shocks x4
Full RR High steer kit ; 3" drop pitman
31x11.50 TSL's
LED light conversion (back)
Custom-made front and rear bumpers
9k lb wench (harbor freight)
Now up to today, we just pulled a 96' 16v 1.6 from a tracker last week. Also snagged the complete fuel tank along with the power steering box. The motor was only missing the dizzy and igniter. I have a MSI-v3.0 from a never finished project laying around. This has led me to explore using the MS on this motor swap versus a factory wiring nightmare. From there I figured if I have to buy a replacement for my missing dizzy, I should explore programmable ignition also.
I am looking at a Ford EDIS system running off of a 31-1 crank mounted sprocket and a VR sensor. This setup can be found for $50-60 bux on Ebay. The MSII system can get the feedback it needs with this combo since the EDIS takes care of a lot of the work.
I tried to keep the history brief. As I progress with this swap I will try to keep this as informative as possible.
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/269101_10150239069301464_567406463_7837475_4054078_n.jpg)
Getting rid of un needed parts and cleaning up the engine bay.
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/261886_10150239069361464_567406463_7837476_6240246_n.jpg)
About the best highest spot to mount the Megasquirt box. Since the hood latch cable is not used on my rig, this will make a nice place to run the wiring. I may try to fab some type of shield below it so it doesn't get splashed while rinsing out the floor boards.
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/267793_10150239069541464_567406463_7837479_3545417_n.jpg)
The a/c was already missing from the stock 1.3 when I bought the truck. I went ahead and removed the related components. Lots of firewall holes to patch up!
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More "older" update pictures (chrono. backwards I know).
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/255707_10150208604921464_567406463_7593593_6274736_n.jpg)
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/260506_10150208605336464_567406463_7593599_1405297_n.jpg)
Axle brace I made and installed
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253594_10150208604071464_567406463_7593579_7192193_n.jpg)
Pix of the bed liner I did a few weeks ago
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/269862_10150239088766464_567406463_7837680_191433_n.jpg)
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/261509_10150239091106464_567406463_7837715_118310_n.jpg)
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Your rear drive line is out of clock and sorry I left you another message on your other thread.
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Your rear drive line is out of clock and sorry I left you another message on your other thread.
No worries. How do u mean out of clock?
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The ears for the ujoints should line up. You will just have to slip the tcase end off and slip it back on with the ears lined up with each other. It is called phasing. Read this. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Phasing (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Phasing) I will be watching this build, very interesting 8)
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The ears for the ujoints should line up. You will just have to slip the tcase end off and slip it back on with the ears lined up with each other. It is called phasing. Read this. [url]http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Phasing[/url] ([url]http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml#Phasing[/url]) I will be watching this build, very interesting 8)
Oh gotcha, thanks for the heads up and link.
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(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/282434_10150239903351464_567406463_7846727_6382977_n.jpg)
...no wonder the plug wires wouldnt come out! So an overheated engine is the reason this tracker was in the junkyard I am sure.This was my first obvious clue. My first non-obvious (but live and learn) clue would have been the timing cover was sorta mangled up like someone had tried to pry it off. Well hind-sight, as I turned the engine over, the timing belt kept sliding outward about half way off the engine. Warped head. I dug a bit deeper and pulled the motor apart to remove the head. One side of the allen head bolts broke loose with ease... one was even loose. The passenger side took a breaker bar they were so tight.
I had a good mind to rebuild this motor with 160k to start with. I guess this just made it easier to decide. Keeps me from being lazy and dropping in a tired motor tho right?
If I get the head planned down and the block checks out okay, what are you rebuild guys doing to the internals while your at it? Not going forged pistons or anything extreme. What about a non-extreme over bore?
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(http://i24.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/3e/45/7c2e_12.JPG)
Waiting on this to ship.
Gambling that the plug wires fit the 1.6 holes. I figure there is some standard to the openings.
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That's going to be one honkin little ride your gonna have with the engine your building. I take it the mega squirt is going to eliminate some of the stock electricals, or are you planning to piggy back it onto the stock ecu and wiring?
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That's going to be one honkin little ride your gonna have with the engine your building. I take it the mega squirt is going to eliminate some of the stock electricals, or are you planning to piggy back it onto the stock ecu and wiring?
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ya we are looking forward to it. The MS will eliminte just about everything. I also am toying with aftermarket guages. Half dont work anyway. I need to explore a compatible speedo. Other than my heater/ fan control, I think all the wiring can go.
I am suprised I couldnt find someone doing a similliar project.
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Here are some updated pictures.
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284822_10150245018801464_567406463_7892488_7454738_n.jpg)
Decided to upgrade to some new guages. I used a GM fuel guage that reads 0-90ohm, Tach, Oil, Water, and boost guage for later use (boost not installed yet)
Also removed and blanked off the a/c controls. I will keep the heater so I will just have a toggle for the fan and lock the vents in place
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/269568_10150245019136464_567406463_7892492_6607514_n.jpg)
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/283406_10150245393021464_567406463_7893743_1237800_n.jpg)
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282495_10150245394851464_567406463_7893749_8235392_n.jpg)
Worked on wiring also. My megasquirt harness came in from DIYautotune Saturday. I didn't want this to be a hack job. After new guages and the new ECU, there was a lot of stock wiring that was not needed. I didn't want a bunch of unused plugs everywhere so we pulled everything electrical other than lighting basically.
I will keep the factory sami fuse box. I added the main fuse box, fuel pump & starter relay from the tracker. I picked up a 6-fused aftermarket fuse box to use for the MS. This way everything MS related is together and seperate from the sami fuse box. I will probably fashion a splash guard to keep moisture off the fuses.
Still need to finish wiring, power steering swap, gas tank swap, and install motor once rebuilt.
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Here are a few recent pictures:
One thing leads to another...
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/283385_10150253922541464_567406463_7975927_3937752_n.jpg)
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215072_10150253923311464_567406463_7975931_8273271_n.jpg)
Hell with a $300 clutch. Local guy using copper cost me half that
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268673_10150253923661464_567406463_7975932_2817080_n.jpg)
Decided to go with COP instead of Ford EDIS-4 so I have a tach output and more control. Ordered the 4 coil drivers today and am awaiting shipping.
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185331_10150253929606464_567406463_7975978_8343694_n.jpg)
Brown came in last week with my rebuild parts. Dropped them off to machine shop and hoping this week I can start bolting the engine back together. Will end up with about $1500 in parts/labor (half and half) for a fully rebuilt 1.6 with stainess exhaust valves, new intake valves, 3 angle valve job, .20 over and standard-standard on bottom end bearings. Only thing not new is the crank and cam. This "engine upgrade" has manafested to say the least.
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Some updated pix. About ready to drop the motor back in and get things wired up.
Did have a slight clearance issue with the sprocket wheel and the fan blades.
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you will need to move your power steering pump up to clear steering box and steering shaft
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Thx. I am going to keep it manual for now. Tis project has opened too many mini projects so I am trying to focus in on just getting her drivable again!
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Shortly after first getting her started. Still plenty left to do in thi video Sami (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ1tJEyaM2k#)
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That's pretty cool, it would be interesting to know what the performance of the coil on plug setup is compared to a stock setup. How hard was it to setup the programming with the COP and 4 injectors compared to a throttle body setup?
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Man that is one noisy fuel pump
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That's pretty cool, it would be interesting to know what the performance of the coil on plug setup is compared to a stock setup. How hard was it to setup the programming with the COP and 4 injectors compared to a throttle body setup?
Probably quite a bit tougher. Considering someone rewiring a factory wiring harness for only $300. MS1 is $200 to build yourself. Premade harness $80, you need a BIP373 for each of these chrysler 300 2 wire coils.. Like $15 each. The COPs themselves. Then a way to get timimg input to MS such as the 32-1 missing tooth on the crank and VR sensor... Gotta built a custom bracket. Could prob use the factoy crank and cam sensors on son versions of the 16v.
Think that sums it up!
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Man that is one noisy fuel pump
Ya dont mount it to that super convinent spot on the underside of the sami body! I have relocated it.
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Man that is one noisy fuel pump
Ya dont mount it to that super convinent spot on the underside of the sami body! I have relocated it.
On Project Trouble the fuel pump is rather noisy as well. We made it a bit quieter by placing a rubber spacer under it and the body. It's still noisy, but a lot better then it was.
Good point about the computer wiring. We have done the wiring bit several times, wasn't sure which was more effective. :)
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Samurai with 16v Megasquirt n spark MS1v3. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdRqpR4AVZY#)
Here is an updated video. Nothing super special but this is running with the stock 16v dizzy instead of the COP setup. Still some tuning to do.
Cheers!
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Are you monitoring via an ODBC II port or using Megasquirt software?
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Are you monitoring via an ODBC II port or using Megasquirt software?
megasquirt
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Hey folks, figured I would throw an update out.
I have learned a lot with this project along the way. After 3 different input setups on the same engine, I have decided on the reliability of a hall sensor and crank mounted 36-1 sprocket (as opposed to a 36-1 and VR sensor, or using the internally mounted hall in the 96 dizzy).
So here is my overall setup and my recomended method of setting up the 96 16v at a glance. This is also an alternative to a $300 harness mod/swap if your wanting further tuning:
MS1 nS park v3 board ($200)(+pre-made wiring harness $75?)(DIYAUTOTUNE)
Ignition Setup: : WHEEL DECODER
Trigger Input: : HALL SENSOR; crank mounted hall sensor with 36-1 wheel ($75?)(DIYAUTOTUNE)
3 wires: Red-12v switched key-on & fused; white/black to same colors in the sheilded pair to MS.
Spark Ouput: SINGLE SPARK; This is a 2-wire setup: 12v switched key-on & fused to internal coil (positive), Pin 36 from MS to coil (negative). Note: I used the factory pigtail to the dizzy, I just removed all the but far right 2 wires (see FSM for wire colors, also view my video for a close up). The other wires that are not needed are for the interal hall sensor and tach out (if i remember right). You may want to look into this tach wire. I did not need it with my aftermarket Eqquis guage.
So this sounds fairly simple right? Other major considerations will be:
Extra fuse panel for giving 12v to: INJ1/INJ2 bank, fuel pump, megasquirt, Hall, coil
I re-used the Tracker main distribution block, then added a 6 fuse sub box.
Custom fab a Hall sensor bracket to the block.
Mount sprocket to crank (drill/tap holes or weld)
I really suggest a Wideband 02 sensor ($200)
This does not cover an install step by step. This is just the stuff I got hung up on. You can always PM me if you have a question.
http://www.youtube.com/zuki1018fire (http://www.youtube.com/zuki1018fire)
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This is a very interesting project, and looks like it may have possible use for a 1.6 modified with a turbo setup. It could provide for a better fuel delivery curve. Thanks for all the great info. ;D
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This is a very interesting project, and looks like it may have possible use for a 1.6 modified with a turbo setup. It could provide for a better fuel delivery curve. Thanks for all the great info. ;D
My thoughts exactly. Initially I decided to go MS since I had the MS1 box already built from a project years ago. I wanted to put my $300 re-wire money to better use. Not to say I have not went over $300 but you can do this with a moderate to light budget if your already planning to motor swap. What is snazzy is MS only needs TPS, 02, Water, and IAT for inputs.
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Here is the next phase of this build although I am not in a hurry to bolt on this T2 turbo. I am not spending $250+ for someone else to make a log manifold out of butt fittings.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/389893_10150357682596464_567406463_8742642_507978173_n.jpg)
These are called butt weld, or weld ell fittings in shedule 40. Find them at a pump / industrial / plumbing company (my welding supplier has some also). 90 degree bends were like $5-6 and the T's about $12-13. These are 1-1/4" in size. I did buy a 45 and 90 in 1-1/2 inch to give me options for my turbo mount or downpipe.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/375959_10150357682926464_567406463_8742644_487340414_n.jpg)
A bit of 3/8 steel (i think its 3" wide... just measure your gasket). I think 3/8 will be fine for thickness although some have suggested 1/2" for a turbo. I found as many 1/2" suggestions as 1/4" though. One can always add a support brace to the turbo.
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/380534_10150357685236464_567406463_8742664_1770757356_n.jpg)
3" Calmini springs
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/316980_10150357684326464_567406463_8742658_1516726712_n.jpg)
3" Calmini plus SPOA and relocated lower shock mounts. I need to add some shock hoops to raise the tops of my front shocks. Theres only about 2" of front axle upward travel... which is fine with Calmini leafs btw lol... they dont really move at all to speak of!
This is as high as I wish to go. Any higher and the front driveshaft will probably hit the xfer case crossmember.
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What kind of fend flares are those?
They look a little narrow for those tires, if you end up replacing them and want to get rid of them send me a pm.
I assume from the noise the fuel pump makes that its a high flow pump? Are you going/did you upgrade the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator? I'd assume you'll need an upgraded fuel delivery system to support a turbo. Unless its something like a T25 (tdo3) and you're looking for 5psi... That would be a shame!
With all the work you've done I've gotta ask why didn't you go with forged pistons if you're plan all along was to turbo it?
Is a cam, maybe even new springs and retainers in the future?
I like the resourcefulness of the manifold your building, just not the design as its restrictive.
Great work though, this thing should be inspiring ;). your bed liner sure turned out better than mine.
Parker.
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Parker, they are actually missing the flares. I just Hurculinered them. I don't like the factory flares at all. I will buy some wide ones down the road.
I did add a high flow pump and filter. I will Def have a RR FPR as the Turbo install gets closer. With that a bit further out I have not calculated injector size or fuel supply needs.
The snail is a t25 from a Saab 2.3. I am not looking for crazy power... just more reliable power at lowest rpm i can. And really just something fun. With this turbos maps I think 12psi is very Max. Thats in the 130hp ish range on paper. Not sure if I will go that far or not.
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If I remember I will post my math and findings later.
I didn't do forged mainly BC I didn't see the need. This rig has already past the original plan of just a fresh motor. I am also using a good but used $40 pick n pull Turbo! The goal is just cheap reliable fun I guess. I did go stainless exh. valves.
The $50 DIY manifold should be more than sufficient in this application. I could spend more time on equal length but from what Ive read it wont make a large enough difference here. I want the shortest distance possible into and out of the Turbo. I wont be piping in an intercooler. I will add Meth/alcohol injection instead. The MS box is already setup to add it. I already installed the wideband 02.
Of course its learn as you go and I am opened minded. Its my second Turbo project but I am no pro!
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Haha it is the T25!
I was kinda seeing a different goal in my mind than a grab-n-go fun toy (take out the grab-n-go), with the valves, mega squirt, 16v, and COP. After I made the post I thought of the displacement and a low-end power band you'll be after and I'm sure the manifold will do just fine, probably shouldn't have said anything. For some reason I was thinking something around a 16g (tdo4) and 20psi. A dsm, 2.0L 16v motor with the T25 came with 450cc injectors and spooled around 2800rpm - 5600rpm'ish as an f.y.i.
I still can't wait to see this done! I've been wanting to SC my 16v just cause I've never owned one but I may be convinced to use a 13g (tdo3) I have sitting around.
You going to use a BOV? hehe... :P
And lastly I'd recommend getting an egt gauge with exhaust tape if its not already in the plans.
Keep up the work and Get'r done!
Parker.
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Haha it is the T25!
I was kinda seeing a different goal in my mind than a grab-n-go fun toy (take out the grab-n-go), with the valves, mega squirt, 16v, and COP. After I made the post I thought of the displacement and a low-end power band you'll be after and I'm sure the manifold will do just fine, probably shouldn't have said anything. For some reason I was thinking something around a 16g (tdo4) and 20psi. A dsm, 2.0L 16v motor with the T25 came with 450cc injectors and spooled around 2800rpm - 5600rpm'ish as an f.y.i.
I still can't wait to see this done! I've been wanting to SC my 16v just cause I've never owned one but I may be convinced to use a 13g (tdo3) I have sitting around.
SC would be neat! I have already broken the transmission mount bolt. Locked F/R, 90hp and hard wheeling i suppose. I promise you it will not break again after I am done :)
You going to use a BOV? hehe... :P
Yes and how sweet it will be!! There are a few good youtube vids of turbo'd 16v with BOV out there... worth a look. I wish the damned things werent so expensive for what they are.
And lastly I'd recommend getting an egt gauge with exhaust tape if its not already in the plans.
Keep up the work and Get'r done!
Parker.
Thx for the suggestions. I am running out of air vents to install guages lol. I may have to fab up another mount somewhere!!!
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Couple of pix of the front Calmini 3" to YJ swap. What a difference in how much smoother the ride is! Cant wait to get the back swapped. It sure is a pain making brackets with cut-off wheels and torches lol. Definately worth saving the several hundred bux though.
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/378480_10150383143036464_567406463_8836426_1456984673_n.jpg)
This is 5" hole-to-hole then I added the orig. 3" shackle back to the front hole. Ended up with a pretty decent angle.
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/388384_10150421231466464_567406463_8950043_1266113401_n.jpg)
I still have 3" of shock droop left here. Forgot to snap an updated close-up but I built a missing link for the front and relocated the upper shock mounts.
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/375354_10150421235211464_567406463_8950050_1642354336_n.jpg)
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Great work so far. 8) You'd be surprized how only 7lbs of boost can really make a difference in these motors, especially fueled correctly. Might want to start savin' for some new tires too, just sayin. :laugh:
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Great work so far. 8) You'd be surprized how only 7lbs of boost can really make a difference in these motors, especially fueled correctly. Might want to start savin' for some new tires too, just sayin. :laugh:
Thanks. I would have this turbo bolted up already but I haven't been up to the daunting task of researching and ordering all the new plumbing related fittings. Oil in/out, water in/out, air in/out, and of course the air filter. Not to mention what they want for a simple relief valve (blow off).
This tiny engine bays gonna look like a maze lol.
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(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/383325_10150431639741464_567406463_8967663_220815227_n.jpg)
Not 100% done but got the basics. The slight droop is from the back right tire being almost flat.
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/387996_10150431640066464_567406463_8967665_2080839549_n.jpg)
Still need to build bump stops.
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/379159_10150431643316464_567406463_8967668_690870068_n.jpg)
First static test i dinged the shock body.. doh. Resolved that with spacing the lower shock a bit.
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You will need to add a bar across the top of your folding shackle to stop them from bending backwards at full droop. Also, be careful the first few times out, I tend to get some nasty death wobble when the air is let out of the tires and I'm driving on pavement.
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Here are the replacment seats we decided on. They are from around a 2000 PT Cruiser. Fitment was pretty smooth but we removed all the factory mounts which left us with just the 2 rails to deal with. We added 2" spacers on the sami floor and the seats are pretty close to old height. These have a long forward/backward travel so we mounted them as far back as possible since I am 6'2". Much more comfortable so far but we have not "bump" tested them. They are plush but possibly more on the firm side.
We like them for the adjustable arm rests and the passenger seat folding down flat forwardly.
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394503_10150447944701464_567406463_9006479_1817794060_n.jpg)
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/381920_10150447944531464_567406463_9006478_609820579_n.jpg)
(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394255_10150447944931464_567406463_9006481_703736162_n.jpg)
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/383024_10150447944386464_567406463_9006477_1240516847_n.jpg)
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i am wanting to do the 1.6 16v swap in my 88.5 sami but i am having trouble finding a motor and i dont exactly know what im looking for any tips or sugestions that might help with my project
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Bit of an update. Weld ELs and a lot of labor...
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/419702_10150533919401464_567406463_9332054_1710226036_n.jpg)
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/422998_10150533920126464_567406463_9332056_1192786013_n.jpg)
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/430967_10150533920486464_567406463_9332060_402424590_n.jpg)
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/425937_10150533919176464_567406463_9332052_974358019_n.jpg)
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/431443_10150533920566464_567406463_9332061_62548291_n.jpg)
Lots of plumbing left to do.. will post more later thx.
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lookin good so far!
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lookin good so far!
That is the way it appears to me, but I do not know about Turbo's. I guess the better part of it is trying to make it work, and then those interested can learn too.
Thanks for sharing.
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Here is a short summary of parts I used to install megasquirt:
MS1 DIY kit 203.00 (6-8 hours to build)
8' wire harness 67.00
Tuning cable 5.50 (to use with laptop)
Hall effect crank sensor 34.00
36-1 trigger wheel 30.00
DIY MS stimulator 45.00 (1 hour to build)
Total $384.00
If you have the extra coin you can spend about $150 and have MS built for you.
I opted out but I would suggest:
DIY Relay board 64.00
Relay cable 85.00
(I used a sub fuse box and relays from my donor Tracker engine)
Other expenses with this engine swap:
High flow fuel pump + - 100.00
Engine swap kit (motor mounts, engine adapter plate) + - 175.00
Heat shrink tubing, connectors, new clutch while your at it?
May as well call it about $600-$800. You can also get a 36-1 wheel sprocket from a Ford XXXX in a scrapyard for peanuts. It does not fit perfectly onto the 1.6 crank though. I would suggest the few dollars to buy a sprocket, punch out the center, then weld it in place one you have established the hall sensor location on the correct tooth at TDC. Its also possible to drill/tap then bolt the sprocket on the crank pulley.
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Nice recap. :) A buddy is interested in a Megasquirt setup for a 350 with coil packs, so I pointed him over here to your thread. :D
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Nice recap. :) A buddy is interested in a Megasquirt setup for a 350 with coil packs, so I pointed him over here to your thread. :D
Well I origionally did a 4x COP setup. I did manage to get it running/driving. Its a bit more work with MS1 having to add additional drivers. I kept having RESET problems with this route and opted to go back to stock dizzy. Actually my engine was missing the dizzy to begin with which is why i did the COP setup to start with.
Word to all. I had a bazillion headaches using a VR sensor on my crank wheel. VR's are very sensitive to electric noise and there seems to be several types (ground switching, going high, going low etc). Do yourselves a favor and order a Hall sensor which is simply a 5 or 12v on/off. Cut and dry and I have not had reset problems since.
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(http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/545167_10150957214716464_567406463_10062183_527858911_n.jpg)
Did a couple of short runs last night at 147Kpa (6.8psi)... screen shot is a first to second gear shift. Thats a ball park of 115-130hp. Such a huge difference from our old 1.3 carb!!
Next phase will be upgrading and possibly relocating the IAT sensor. Doing some heat shielding and installing a hood scoop of sorts. Heat soaks a pain.... but doesn't impact it with the hood off!!
I love megasquirt.... definately forces you to learn a lot more about fuel injection.
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[Word to all. I had a bazillion headaches using a VR sensor on my crank wheel. VR's are very sensitive to electric noise and there seems to be several types (ground switching, going high, going low etc). Do yourselves a favor and order a Hall sensor which is simply a 5 or 12v on/off. Cut and dry and I have not had reset problems since.
VR sensors are very reliable, the problem is usually bad PCB layout and decoupling on the interface. When the input is clamping there is a fair bit of current pushed into the supply rails which can cause ground shifts and noise spikes on a bad PCB, thats what usually causes reset problems.
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VR sensors are very reliable, the problem is usually bad PCB layout and decoupling on the interface. When the input is clamping there is a fair bit of current pushed into the supply rails which can cause ground shifts and noise spikes on a bad PCB, thats what usually causes reset problems.
Thanks for the info. You must be in a related industry?
Its very likely that the VR issues I previously had were specific to my situation.
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Thanks for the info. You must be in a related industry?
I design ECUs for a large corporation based in Detroit :)
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Thanks for the info. You must be in a related industry?
I design ECUs for a large corporation based in Detroit :)
Definitely makes you an expert!!
I think the Megasquirt 3 is a totally different PCB. MS2 is a piggyback on to the same MS1 board. They probably came a long way with the newer design. ...although again, there are so many variables involved with a DIY circuit board build and then the external wiring install... others may not have the same issues I had.