ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: FreddyDynamite on June 27, 2011, 06:20:43 PM
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My first mod to my Sidekick is putting in Jeff's 2" coild spacer kit. I bought it on the great reviews on this forum, and after recieving and installing it I can say that the reviews were bang on. The parts fit and quality were top notch, shipping was very fast, and he has always been there to answer any question I had about installing it.
I am completely new to the whole 4x4 thing and have spent my time lowering cars and not raising them. I did my research here and although there are a lot of threads with his kit installed I wasnt able to get a good idea of exactly how everything went together. I decided to take lots of pics while installing and do a write up for others that are new to get a good understanding of how to put it in.
So here goes, this is what I started with
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/start/unlifted.jpg)
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Lets get started...
I had some other stuff to do underneith so instead of lifting the read and then the front, I fifted the whole thing
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/get_ready/jacks.jpg)
Once up and secure, I removed the wheels
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/get_ready/wheelsOff.jpg)
PLEASE MAKE SURE IT IS SECURE!!! You will be pulling and pushing, you dont want it to come down.
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Starting with the rear...mine was a mess under there, due for big cleanup ( believe it or not, that is mostly dirt in there and not rust), some paint and some shocks
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/start.jpg)
Jack up the Diff from the center to relieve the tension on the shocks.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step1.jpg)
Gently remove the old shocks with a hammer, vicegrips, torch and a grinder...don't worry, you will be replacing everything anyway.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step2.jpg)
Unbolt this thing that hold the e-bracke cable in place, you will need the extra slack to lower the axle enough
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step3.jpg)
Once undone, just lower the jack as far as the diff will drop without binding the e-brake cables, the rear springs should comeo out easily at this point.
I order the extra diff spacer, so if you did too, raise the axle back up a bit and undo the 4 bolts here
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step4.jpg)
Lower it back down a bit to fit the spacer in and bolt it back together with Grade 8 bolts that are M10 x 90 Hex Cap Screw 8.8 fine... actually, those will be about 1/2 inch too long, so get the next shorter size. I had a bit of issue with the top threads in the diff, so I had to go longer to go all the way through. You are supposed to torque these bolts to 41ft/lbs, but I found as you tightened, the material of the spacer started to squish and I was concerned about overtightening the bolts and ripping the threads out. I put on some locktight and tightened them until the arm started to deform the red stuff and called it tight enough.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step5.jpg)
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Here is the rear coil spacer, thoughtfully mared with the direction to put it in
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step6.jpg)
Here you see how it fits onto your washed spring...ok, I had them sandblasted and painted them...note, I got the 4 springs and the wheels sandblasted for $60, well worth not having to try to clean and sand them
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step7.jpg)
Slide your spacer on the bumpstop, this is really tight, so when I say slide I mean grease it, twist it, I even used a hammer to tap it up...not a mark on this stuff, make sure it is all the way up
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step8.jpg)
Put the spring back in, small side up in case you forgot, and make sure the bottom coil is located where it should be in the arm.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step9.jpg)
TADA...looks nice doesn't it?
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step10.jpg)
In Jeff's instructions he gives you the part numbers for the shocks needed, these are 95 rear mustang shocks, the only thing I had to do was do some cutting on the rubber isolators at the top, very easy, otherwise they bolt right in. Once the shocks are in, don't forget to put back that e-brake cable hollder and you are done te rear!
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/rear/step11.jpg)
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On to the front. Again a dirty muddy mess, clean it up while you have the chance.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step1.jpg)
First, you want to remove the shock. I was changing mine so I started by removing the center bolt, then unbolting the 2 bolts at the bottom of the strut and pull i out. If you are not changing your shock you dont need to remove the strut from the strut mout, you can just undo the 3 bolts around it and drop it out with the mount attached. Either way, the shock mount has to be removed anyway.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step2.jpg)
This is the worst part of the job, the springs are a pain to take out..even worse to put back in, compress is as much as you can with a coil squasher, wrestle it, push and pry, and when you are about to give up, turn away to grab your hammer and it will just fall out by itself :)
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step3.jpg)
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step4.jpg)
Again, clean while you are in there, I seperated the shaft here but only because my boots were ripped. It iis easy to remove it with only 3 bolts holding it on, and it will give you a bit more room to work too. Slide (again, ie, grease, twist hammer) the front coil spacer in.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step5.jpg)
And now to test your fortitude and sanity, get the coil back in. The only trick I found here was to put it in with the longest part of the spring to the outside, then rotate the spring to seat the end of the coil at the back of the arm where it is supposed to be...kinda hard to explain, but you will see what I mean when you are doing it.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step6.jpg)
Take your strut mount and pound out the 3 bolts, I took a deep 15mm socket, set it on top of my vice, put the head of the bolt in it and pounded down. Without using the socket behind it, you will deform the mount. Now drill out the holes to the size Jeff mentions in the instructions (sorry, lost mine). An interresting point is that I had to replace one of the strut mounts and the bolt and holes were larger and did not require drilling. Now if you are changing your shocks, mount them in the strut mount, then put Jeff's space on top f that and run the supplied bolts through the mount and the spacer and bolt it back in place and torque them down. btw, Use some antiseize on everything everwhere (see the gold stuff in the pics) it will save you soooo much hassle next time you take it apart.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/front/step7.jpg)
Bolt everything back together, check everything and you are done. Put your wheels back on, lover the rig and enjoy.
(http://www.freddydynamite.com/suzuki/suspension/finish/done.jpg)
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So again, this is a great product, and a big thanks to Jeff for making and offering these kits to us.
I hope this write up helps anybody wanting to do their lift, all in all it is a very easy mod with no special tools required (other than the spring squisher that you can usually borrow from the car parts store). Doing it the first time, expect to take at least a day to do it...most of it spent wrestling rusty and seized bolts.
note, once you are done, make sure you bring it in for an alignment, I am bringing mine in this week. Many people here talk about camber bolts, or slotting the strut to sompensate for the raised front suspension, I don't know what is best and will leave that up to the gurus in here to pu in their suggestions.
As for driving impressions...I have nothing to compare it to as I did not drive the Zuk before I did this. I will say it acted VERY squirrly for the first few miles until everything settled in, but since then there has been no issue at all. I took it out in the trails and was very happy of how it preformed, thanks again Jeff.
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Thanks for the excellent write-up. Glad everything went back together ok. Nice pictures. Wish I would have done that when I did mine.
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Your ex. manifold is cracked.
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Very helpful! (I'm looking at buying this kit for my Kick, and this will help!)
- Andy
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Did you paint your coils or are those aftermarket?
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Drone it say's he painted the stock spring's ;)
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Drone it say's he painted the stock spring's ;)
Good point, I completely missed that. To many pretty pictures to look at. :D
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lol, a lot of pics and text to read, but yes painted. I took the stock ones off, had them sandblasted, painted with POR15, then selfetching primer, then Tremclad. The blue probably wont stay on very long, I chipped quite a bit already with the spring compressors, but the POR15 isnt going anywhere.
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Thanks for pointing out the crack, I went to look, and although hard to see the actual crack there, I think you are right..that would probably explain why it sounds like I have already done a diesel conversion when I accelerate hard. Any idea if these can be welded or is a new one in order?
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Thanks for pointing out the crack, I went to look, and although hard to see the actual crack there, I think you are right..that would probably explain why it sounds like I have already done a diesel conversion when I accelerate hard. Any idea if these can be welded or is a new one in order?
the stock exhaust manifold are cast.. they can be welded but i don't suggest it.. its a pain in the a$$!!!! the big problem with cast is that it will break next to the weld. i strongly recommend the Doug Thorley tri y.. they have great reviews and a header and bolt right in
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Jeff's 2" spacers and 31's
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I am really interested in purchasing this lift....where can I get it at and how much is it?
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Search for Ebay ID: hoepkers. or try http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-COIL-LIFT-KIT-98-OLDER-SUZUKI-SIDEKICK-GEO-TRACKER-/280752005988?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415e1fa364#ht_2728wt_1274 (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2-COIL-LIFT-KIT-98-OLDER-SUZUKI-SIDEKICK-GEO-TRACKER-/280752005988?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415e1fa364#ht_2728wt_1274)
I just got them for my 90 tracker and liked them a lot too. (http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x339/Horseman1977/IMG_0538.jpg) I am on 235/75 r15 tires.
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Nice write up ! plan on ordering a set for my 2000 tracker this weekend !
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canadiantbone you should look at mudchild's kit. it is more expensive but has everything you need and is made out of aluminium and steel. I put one in my 2001 tracker last weekend and it went in good and looks awesome.
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canadiantbone you should look at mudchild's kit. it is more expensive but has everything you need and is made out of aluminium and steel. I put one in my 2001 tracker last weekend and it went in good and looks awesome.
will do , thanks for the info
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Any competent real welder can weld cast. I've welded lots of cast manifolds before. clean the joint well preheat area to be welded and i normally use lincon Ferroweld 1/8 rod weld it up let it cool natrually never had one come back yet.
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Any competent real welder can weld cast. I've welded lots of cast manifolds before. clean the joint well preheat area to be welded and i normally use lincon Ferroweld 1/8 rod weld it up let it cool natrually never had one come back yet.
Bingo!
The problem most people have welding cast parts is improper preperation and not preheating the cast part enough prior to welding. I have seen several sammi cast thirds with mounting arms welded on for use in sidekicks and they have faired very well and there is far more torque applied there than on the mani.