ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Jordan on June 20, 2011, 07:43:14 AM
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OK here's my build...
1982 SJ410 SWB soft top. As most this will be a slow build, but I'll try to have lots of pic's.
this is it when I first got it back in 2007...
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Keep it stock! 8)
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Keep it stock! 8)
Might be a bit late for that given his signature ;)
Now we want to see the recent pics :)
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Sorry for the slow reply, it woudn't let me post any thing, it told me I was trying to start a new topic and needed to have a subject ???
Keep it stock! 8)
Might be a bit late for that given his signature ;)
Now we want to see the recent pics :)
Ya about two years late :)
Ok here's some pictures of it with the lift and what was under the carpet...
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Ok were up to 2010 now, this is going fast :laugh:
Some stuff came in the mail ;D
Rebuilt 6.5:1 tcase
Heavy duty tcase mounts
Driveshaft spacers x4
1" wheel spacers x4
GM alternator bracket (for my sidekick).
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then I found a good deal on some used rims $250 for five 15x8", they payed over $1200 for them new, the guys wife had them on her jeep when they joined a 4x4 club, then she decided that she wanted black insted of chrome, so they got new rims mirrors and grill.
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then I found a good deal on some used rims $250 for five 15x8", they payed over $1200 for them new, the guys wife had them on her jeep when they joined a 4x4 club, then she decided that she wanted black insted of chrome, so they got new rims mirrors and grill.
they lie! sorry but you grossly over paid for chrome mods. "they" may have paid 1200 for wheels with tires. I would through them back through his front window.
but heck If your happy with them, who am I to say.
jeepers anyways... ::)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/U-S-Wheel-97-Series-Chrome-Modular-Wheel-97-5855-15x8-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ae0d2d7dbQQitemZ390318970843QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/U-S-Wheel-97-Series-Chrome-Modular-Wheel-97-5855-15x8-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ae0d2d7dbQQitemZ390318970843QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
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then I found a good deal on some used rims $250 for five 15x8", they payed over $1200 for them new, the guys wife had them on her jeep when they joined a 4x4 club, then she decided that she wanted black insted of chrome, so they got new rims mirrors and grill.
they lie! sorry but you grossly over paid for chrome mods. "they" may have paid 1200 for wheels with tires. I would through them back through his front window.
but heck If your happy with them, who am I to say.
jeepers anyways... ::)
[url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/U-S-Wheel-97-Series-Chrome-Modular-Wheel-97-5855-15x8-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ae0d2d7dbQQitemZ390318970843QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories[/url] ([url]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/U-S-Wheel-97-Series-Chrome-Modular-Wheel-97-5855-15x8-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ae0d2d7dbQQitemZ390318970843QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories[/url])
I live in Alberta Canada, and stuff up here is a lot more then in USA, if they got them on ebay 5 rims is still $340 without shipping, $10.95 shipping is only in states not Canada, for shipping to Canada it would be over 10 times that much for shipping, So it would still be $500 for five rims, that's still twice what I payed. If they got them up here I can see them paying $250 a rim.
But thanks for the info, it's so stupid that we pay way more for the same thing as you guys >:( Calamini 6.5:1 gears are $1,050 up here, that's what my rebuilt tcase with the gears cost including the core charge from RRO.
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I recognize that sort of high steer setup! When I put some Sammy axles under my SJ-410 it had the same setup, the upper arm mounted to the kingpin in a Toyota style setup. Then I sheared all of the bolts off when starting back down Moab Rim on it's first run out.
I recommend getting a new arm that also braces off of the brake calipers, or adding the brace yourself. :)
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I already broke the bolts, so I got 10.9 grade bolts and built a brace ;), I'll try to get some pic's of it here.
Then the tires came 33x12.50x15 TSL bias ply, $1100 for 5 tires about 75% tread, 75% of what they cost new up here, as always you find a better deal a week after you buy them ::) 5 34x10.50x15 LTB'S 90% tread for $750
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Looks good! Here is what my SJ-410 looked like after the SPOA and 33x12.5" tires back in 2004. :)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-X7nTnn6PXUU/SlQWm3PeRZI/AAAAAAAAEzk/Mvxju1Lr99A/s512/DCP_0118.JPG)
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Looks good, but I don't like the rims, my style of rims look way better :laugh:.
Ok here's some pictures of the brace I built for the steering, it hasn't broke yet and it's had more stress then before the brace.
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Up to 2011 now, I got the front signal and marker lights wired in. and the passenger side rocker panel done, floor pans cut out, and cross members welded in
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Keep it stock! 8)
Might be a bit late for that given his signature ;)
Now we want to see the recent pics :)
Here's the most recent pic's, two weeks old.
I got the doors back on and put the new Bestop on...
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I got a few tack welds holding the floor in, and made the front wheel well and got it all tacked in place.
Here's few better pic's of the steering arm and brace, tried to get a better weld on it but it didn't work out :-[ (still learning to weld) but the one on the bottom looks allot better. Pictures aren't the best, used my ipod camera.
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Forgot to say that I stretched the wheel base 1" up front, I'll get some pictures it to day.
And I'm almost finished welding in the floor, just three little pieces, would of had them in yester day but the MiG welder ran out of gas, so I'll get more to day and pick up some more steel to finish the rocker panel. (And the checker plate steel is 1/8" thick, a little over kill but it was free :). The tire doesn't rub the back of the wheel well thanks to the extra inch of wheel base and cuting firewall/rocker panel back
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Here's the pic's showing how I moved the axle forword 1", I just redrilled the holes in the spring pads and the U-bolt plates.
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I got the rocker panel welded up, a littel more of the firewall/wheelwell welded, and the seat put in...
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Beefy floor pans :o good work
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Thanks Wild, ya they shouldn't rust out any time soon :)
just got a bit of grinding on the rocker panel done, I think it looks better with 2" cut off the bottum of it I want to paint the inside once all the welding and grinding done (that's why there's no end caps on the rocker yet). Also got the lights on the roof just to see what they would look like, I'm going to make a stronger mounting bracket that folds down for in tight spots...
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Nice use of the stock windshield mounts to hold your light rack. :)
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Been a bit since my last post here, had problems with my internet, haven't been able to get on the forum for about two months, but its fixed now.
OK so there's Lot's to update on this, its been out wheeling, and even boating once :) I'll have lots of new info and pic's soon ;D
Jordan
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Hey Jordan, a bunch of us are going out wheeling in the mountains west of Rocky on Oct 1&2. Theres about 7 Zuks so far. I posted an ad on kijiji about it. If you are interested get in touch with me. It's a blast and all Suzukis.
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Nice use of the stock windshield mounts to hold your light rack. :)
Thanks Drone, but it didn't work, the mounts were to weak and the hood hit the lights before the mounts.
Hey Jordan, a bunch of us are going out wheeling in the mountains west of Rocky on Oct 1&2. Theres about 7 Zuks so far. I posted an ad on kijiji about it. If you are interested get in touch with me. It's a blast and all Suzukis.
Thanks Zukifreek! ;D
OK so far Ive built a snorkel, tcase skid plate, put in a delco alternator, and broke a front axle ::) Here's some pictures...
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Ok so I have a question, should I go straight to Toyota diffs or do you think Sami diffs with chromeolly shafts will be strong anuff to take a good beating with the 33's? I don't want to rig the Sami diffs up with lockers and HD shafts and then have to get a set Toyota diffs.
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33" + "a beatin'" = Toyota or D44
Good luck, Eric
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I run 33" tires with stock rear axles and choromoly fronts without an issue. Stock 970cc 4cyl and 6.5:1 t-case with 5.12 gears. But if I was building axles over again from scratch I would probably just go with Toyota's to begin with.
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Thanks, Toyota's with 5.29's, spooled rear, locker and a high pinion 3rd up front are in the plans.
And my spider gears aren't welded any more, (broke the welds).
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And my spider gears aren't welded any more, (broke the welds).
That is why I usually recommend just spending the extra bit of money on a mini-spool, or full spool for Toy axles. :D
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Ya I'll get a full spool and a locker for the yota diffs.
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Sweet ride! Why didn't you bring it to zukmeld?
Where is the picture taken where you're on the rocks? Drayton valley? Some good wheeling around there? Id come down sometime... >:D
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Sweet ride! Why didn't you bring it to zukmeld?
Where is the picture taken where you're on the rocks? Drayton valley? Some good wheeling around there? Id come down sometime... >:D
I was wanting to, but the brakes on it are shot, so it's not the best for in the mountains :), hoping to have it ready for zukmeld next spring.
And you're close on where the picture was taken (Lindale) 20 minutes east of Drayton, not to much wheeling around here, Just some quad trails (a zuk can fit down most of them) and around the farm, but we could meet up some time to go wheeling for a day ;D, I'm a hour and a half west of Edmonton .
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A little up date, rear end went yesterday (driveshaft turns but the tires don't move).
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Front or rear, or both? Might be bad hubs.
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Its the rear diff, pretty sure it's the R&P or the spider gears because it clunks pretty bad when you give it gas in 2WD. The good news is I might have some Toyota diffs lined up, so hopefully I can get them and have 'em all fixed up and under the sj by next spring ;D
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Got the diff apart to day, the teeth on the side gears are shredded off, could have been caused by the bits of broken welds in it.
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Side gears are easy to replace, or put in a mini spool. how is the R&P?
There is still time left this year to wheel, but not much way up there.
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The R&P look fine, inside of the carrier is a little chewed up from the broken welds but it should work fine if I put in new side gears, at least till I get some yota's fixed up, I'll see if I can find some side gears.
There was a skiff of snow this morning, but as far as wheeling left this year I can go till there's about a foot or so of snow, it gets cold but now I have a good floor and soft top, last winter I went out with no roof, doors, or passenger side floor, I had great visibility but it was a bit cold :).
Thinking of a ARB locker in the front yota diff, do you guys think it's worth the extra $$ for a ARB?
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I have had one up front for a couple years, and am now running them on both ends. They are awesome, but the tubing IS NOT heat tolerant. You need to be extremely careful where and how you run it. I have converted the front to 1/8 tubing because you can buy it in most parts stores, finding 5mm plastic hose is a PITA and a lot of shops handling ARB do not have extra hose. I may run 1/8 copper tubing to both ends to eliminate all the heat issues.
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You mean the air line that would go from the diff to the air compressor? From the frame down to the axle would have to be flexable right, Would rubber or braded steel brake lines work to from the diff up to the frame, (or is the heat not a problem on this part of the line?) and then the copper tubing to the air compressor?
Thanks BRD HNTR,
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If you feel like going for a drive I have a few SJ diffs that would have the parts to fix your diff up until you put the yota diffs in.
John
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If you feel like going for a drive I have a few SJ diffs that would have the parts to fix your diff up until you put the yota diffs in.
John
Thanks John, I might be able to get some side gears from a guy here in Drayton valley, but if I can't I'll let you know for sure.
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They make a braided line to go for the flexible part, or you can use the 5mm poly line with a wire coil on the end (to stiffen so it is less likely to break), or the 1/8 nylon line like I do. Steel lines like to rust so it is not advisable. Larger braided lines take more volume, so you want to keep the lines small.
My front diff doesn't (or shouldn't) move. My motor compartment is full, so it is hard finding routes for the plastic line that doesn't go past something that gets hot. I melted one line off on the tranny when the cooling line kinked.
Knowing how easy it melts helps when installing it. I was using (supposedly) an air pump from a lincoln (seats? or lift system?), they do not take much volume, air pressure needs to be between 70 & 105 psi.
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Ok thanks for all the info BRD HNTR, I think I'll try and hook up a copper line to go along the frame and use the line it comes with to go to the diff. I have a 5 gallon air tank that I was going to hook up to the ARB heavy duty compressor, so that should take care of the air for the locker and to fill up tires and run air tools. I also have to get any tools I might need for setting up the R&P gears, it'll be my first time setting up gears or rebuilding diffs so any advice would be great.
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I do not remember where I saw the write up on rebuilding/regearing a diff. Possibly ACK's. I used the FSM (also on ACK's). Pay special attention and keep side bearings & caps together and marked for which side. When adjusting the side bearings for for backlash or preload, always stop when tightening. If you have overtightened overloosen then turn the diff a couple turns and retighten (stopping when tightening).
If you are replacing the bearings, they have to be pressed off and on, so might as well take it to the shop and have it all done right. Just take the third member for a rebuild, the more they do the more they charge.
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Thanks BDR HNTR, I'll try ACK's, I also found a few good right ups on installing ARB's and 5.29's in Toyota 8" 3rds at www.gearinstalls.com (http://www.gearinstalls.com). I think the only tools I need to get are a bearing separator and maybe a dial indicator, I have access to a press to press on the bearings and ring gear onto the ARB and the pinion. It would be easier to just take it to a shop but I know this won't be the last diff I'll have to get setup, so knowing how to do it my self would be very useful.
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Look what showed up to day, A 81 Toyota pickup :)...
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It looks like the axles are about to fall off. :D
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Ya if the rust doesn't get'em I will ;) but I think the diffs and front driveshaft are worth the $350 I payed for it.
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Get crackin' May is coming. You gotta have it ready for the run.
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Ya my goal is to get the yota's under it and have it street legal by May ;) I'm going to grab a flashlight and go see what I can tear off the truck in the dark.
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Well I got the 8 bolts off that hold the front driveshaft on, but only got the diff flange end to brake loose so it's still on the truck, fighting with rusty bolts for 45 minutes in the dark at -10 isn't vary fun.
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Low Range sells adapter plates that will allow you to bolt them straight up to your stock drive shafts. :)
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My driveshafts are a different bolt pattern then the 84 and up sj and sammys and I want the toyota cv drive shaft for the back ;) But that might work on my tcase (sammy case).
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Well I got the front diff and drive shaft off, got the cv joint apart and the center ball that keeps both u-joints at the same angle is wore out so I'll have to see if I can get a new one. And I got both front knuckles off and the shafts out, I'll get some pictures of the size difference from the sj shafts (it's a lot).
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The front SJ shafts are 23mm thick, the yota's are 30mm thick, and the birfield 22mm wider then the SJ.
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I think the U-Joints are the same on the SJ-410 and samurai, so you might be able to just swap the ends.
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That might work, I'll see if mine are the same as the sammys. Thanks Drone.
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Here's a list of the parts and tools I got so far: JD Squared model 3 tube bender, five Pro comp rockcrawler rims 15x8 2.5" backspace 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern, four Rancho 32" extended length RS9000 shocks, AllPro off road rear disc brake conversion, new front brake calipers and roters. I should have the rest of the stuff ordered some time next week.
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What size die did you get with that tube bender?
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1.5"x5.5" but I think I'm going to take it back and get a 1.5"x4.5" instead, 5.5" is a bit to big for a Sammy. (got the dies exchanged) so now I just need to order the 1.5"x.120 wall DOM tubing.
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The rear disc brake conversion kit came in, looks well made with 3/8" steel brackets and 10.9 grade bolts, so it shouldn't break off the diff if I lock up the brakes :). The new front rotors came in, to bad they sent me ones for a 4 bolt Honda car ::) should of opened the box at the store, but the calipers are the right ones.
And the rims and shocks shipped on the 29th so they should be here within two weeks (rims had to be made) they don't keep the 2.5" back spaced rims in stock.
I also sold the front third member, so cost of the truck is down to $250 now, I'll hopefully come out ahead time it's all parted out ;).
And I found a store that sells a rebuild kit for the Toyota cv joint so I will be using it for my rear shaft, they will hopefully be able to make me a front cv shaft as well.
And incase anyone wants to know the width of the yota diffs, the rear is 55" wide and the front is 56.5" wide.
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Here's a bunch of over due photos... Since I finally got them to upload...
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Pic's of the All-Pro off road rear disc brake conversion kit and the new front Toyota calipers...
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And your already smashing up the rear quarter panel! :)
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And your already smashing up the rear quarter panel! :)
No there's lots of room between that rock and the rocker panel, a hole 1/4"... :laugh:
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No there's lots of room between that rock and the rocker panel, a hole 1/4"... :laugh:
I'm sure you will get it next time! :D
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I'm sure you will get it next time! :D
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Hopefully I'll have the rock sliders on it by then :)
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New parts!!! :) Five 6 lug 15"x8" 2.5" backspace Pro comp rock crawler rims, four Rancho 32" RS9000XL adjustable shocks (13" of travel), Brembo front brake roters, ARB 30' snatch strap, chrome lug nuts and center caps...
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Just a little update on the sj, still waiting on some parts but I think I I've got every thing I need ordered.
So here's the plan: rear yj springs all the way around, outbourd front springs 2" each and use Sky's toy axle swap kit, all Toyota steering and four wheel disc brakes, Spidertrax's Tcase disc park brake, samurai drive shafts (for now), spooled rear, ARB air locker up front, 5.29 R&P gears, stretch the wheelbase 3"(1" in the rear and 2" up front), add 5" to the front of the frame, and build some bumpers...
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Going to be nice seeing all that come together. :)
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Ya, it will be nice to have brakes again! here's were the front tire should sit at the new ride hight/width... ;D
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Well the yj springs I ordered from JC Whitney where out of stock so they canceled my order >:(. So I'll get them from low range instead, but now I'm thinking that instead of going to all the work of out boarding the front springs 2" I should just four link the front, it wouldn't cost much more using heim joints, and it would be about the same amount of fabricating.
Here's the pros and cons that I can think of for the four link...
Pros:
1. Better ride.
2. Better approach angles.
3. Better traction.
4. More suspension travel.
5. And it looks way cooler!
Cons:
1. It would cost $300-400 more.
2. It would take more time to design then the yj's.
That's all I can think of right now.
Any advice and or ideas are welcome, let me know what you think.
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That is how the 4-link on my old SJ was started. We were going to make a traction bar and decided it wasn't all that much more to just build a full 4-link. :D
For the front, I would seriously consider air shocks or coil overs. Moonzuki put one together and there isn't a lot of room up front for shocks, coils and the panhard bar.
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Ya, if it was a Samurai I would just do the yj's since I wouldn't need to outboard the springs.
Does Moonzuki have any close up pic's of his front four link?
As for room up front I was thinking of doing a triangulated four link, so I wouldn't need a panhard bar, plus with the 6.5" wider Toyota diff and 2.5" backspaced rims their's a fare bit more room under there then with the stock diff, so their should be a nuff room for the shocks and coils. And I'd hate to spend $1,200 on a set of coilovers when I just bought the four 32" Rancho 9000xl's for it.
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You can only run a triangulated 4-link up front if your going to switch to a full hydro steering. Even then I would recommend staying with a panhard bar if your going to be driving it on the road.
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I'm still looking in to the front triangulated four link. And if I get it road legal it wouldn't be on the road much, but I would test it's high speed manners before I drove it far on the road. I'm thinking if I had a sway bar with quick Disconnects, and adjustable mounting points for the links to adjust the anti dive for on the road it would handle ok. But I will do some more research on it.
Thanks for your input Drone, and do you have a link to your SJ four link build? Couldn't find it on here.
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Here you go:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/sj-410-rear-4-link-build (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/sj-410-rear-4-link-build)
Your steering is going to dangerous at speed, mainly because you do not have any connection between your tires and the steering wheel. Check with your local laws as well, most states require an auto-centering steering system. But it can be done. :)
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Thanks!
Ya I wouldn't go with hydro steering, but then theirs the bump steer problem ???, I've found a way around it but it would be a lot of work to rig up the steering setup for it.
I'm going to do some more research on it, but I will probable just do the four link and panhard bar, it will be easer to design then a triangulated which will be good since this is my first time building a "link" suspension.
And I was looking at the front end and there should be room to have the panhard bar in front of the coil springs and the shocks beside the coils, it will be a close fit but not too bad.
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Well the Trailgear parts from North Shore Off Road are suppose to be here Monday(orderd them Feb 1st >:(), and the coil springs and rod ends from Low Range should also be in on Monday :) I still have to order the DOM tubing for the cage and links and find some Sami drive shafts, and then I should have all the parts I need!
Details (LR parts)...
Springs: Blue Coil 18"x2.5" ID 125lb inch rate, should be very soft so they will be compressd 4-5" at ride hight.
Rod ends: 3/4" heim joints at the diff and poly bushings at the frame, panhard bar will be the same.
What I have planed so far...
Diffs...
Front: complete rebuild, ARB air locker in a high pinion third with 5.29:1s.
Rear: complete rebuild, full spool and 5.29:1s.
Drive shafts...
Sami shafts with spacers, and Tom Wood's once the wheel base is were I want it for sure.
Suspension...
Front: coiled 4 link with panhard bar, 5" up travel and 7" down.
Rear: stock leaf springs with longer shackles to level out the ride hight (till I link the rear ;)).
Steering...
Toyota IFS box and full high steer.
Brakes...
Four wheel disc, Toyota 1" bore master cylinder.
And that should hopfully do it for the yota swap, for now ;).
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Did your parts come in?
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The stuff from Low Range came yesterday, the other stuff didn't come in till today but the shipping place closed before I got off work, but I should be able to pick it up tomorrow. And I got the tires put on the new rims finally, I'll get some pic's of all the new parts when I get all of them.
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Well I got the Trailgear stuff today! So far the only thing missing is one of the diff flanges with the Sami bolt pattern, I'll get some pictures of every thing in the next day or two.
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Well I haven't got any pictures of the TG stuff yet, but I'll get some as it goes on the SJ ;)
Got the DOM tubing for the roll cage and front suspension links (127' of 1.5x.120 wall for tha cage and 22' of 1.5x.250 wall for the links, so their should be extra for rocker protection and stuff).
And now I can get the front suspension done :) and then start on the cage!
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Nice. What do you have for a tubing bender?
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Hey Jordan, sounds like you have yourself quite a project. Are you going to have a Zuk running for the Zookmeld on May 26th and 27th? Same spot as last time. Cheers
John
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Nice. What do you have for a tubing bender?
Thanks Drone, its a JD squared model 3 and a 1.5"x4.5" die.
Hey Jordan, sounds like you have yourself quite a project. Are you going to have a Zuk running for the Zookmeld on May 26th and 27th? Same spot as last time. Cheers
John
Hi John, yeah it's turning into a big project that's for sure, but it'll be nice when it's done. Unfortunately it wont be done by the 26th of May and the sidekick's motor is shot, but if someone has room for a passenger I'd come down and ride along :).