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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: tracker818 on May 23, 2011, 10:10:33 AM
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Well a formal hello to all. I just picked up a 94 2 dr auto tracker that I will be using as a daily driver/tow car, trail rig/ hunting rig. I am new to zukes but love there off roadability and compact size. I have been looking through the forum for hours these past few days and have learned alot and have some questions. From what I have read most people are running crown vic shocks in the back with GV springs. I was thinking of getting Jeff's suspension lift (2 inchs) and from what I remember the some stated that the GV sorings will add about 2 inchs on a 2 dr as well but are only used in the rears, correct? So how do I get the remainder 2 inches I am looking for in the front. I dont want to do a body lift or get some expensive manufactures lift kit. Is this even possible?
Thanks for the help in advance, from what I have been reading this forum has some knowledgable and decent guys (and gal, I think I read a Heather somewhere).
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You can get 4" out of your IFS but that is pushing the limits without major modifications. At 4" with factory diff locations you have maxed out drop in wheel travel and the angles you can operate your CV's at without breakage. You will need to get Strut spacers, diff drop brackets, etc... Or you can go with a pre-engineered kit from one of our vendors.
HTH,
Zig
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I got 4+" inches out of mine without using an aftermarket kit, but I did a lot of fab work to the stock components like control arms and made my own diff drop brackets. You can do it, but it will mean a lot of modding and welding.
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A 2" body lift is really not hard to do at all and you can't tell that you even have one in. My .02
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Will 2 inches give me any problems with sqeaking and the body floating? I am sure I will have to extend the shift levers for the trans and transfer, is there anything else that would have to be done? Bentparts, do you have pics or diagrams of your axle drop looks like. Also, what did you do to get the 4 inchs of lift? Thanks for all the info and help gentlemen, I am trying to get this baby ready to so scouting the mountains so the sooner I get her done the sooner I can get out there! One more thing, does anyone have pics of a roof rack for a 2 dr tracker, I need to make one of those as well.
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Take a look at SR CUSTOMS for you suspension and body lift needs: http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=7&Itemid=56 (http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=7&Itemid=56)
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Take a look at SR CUSTOMS for you suspension and body lift needs: [url]http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=7&Itemid=56[/url] ([url]http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=7&Itemid=56[/url])
Thanks, I have visited their site before but figures I could get as much lift without spending $400+. If I see that I will bee spending as much then I will definitely get there stuff, looks like good quality.
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Honestly, for all the work it took if I ever had to do it again, I'd just drop the coin and buy a good kit. I do have pics on my site, under Tracker Build I think. www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts (http://www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts).
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Well I just screwed myself, the lift is going to have to wait. I had to replace a stupid freakin o-ring that goes on the distributor assembly that I have been hunting down for three days now. I found one that was the right ring size but a bit thick. Long story short, I snapped a freakin bolt trying to tighten it and now it is stuck in the head. Is there any remedy to take the bolt out or am I going to have to send it to a shop? One stupid o-ring screwed everything up!
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WOW! you might try a lefthand drill bit and take it a little slow when drilling. You also might have to remove the dist. and fill the hole with a rag. Maybe drill a hole in the bolt and use a screw extractor or if you can get a cutting wheel back there to cut a slot in the leftover bolt and try a screwdriver. On to the body lift, simply buy you some 2x2 tubing, cut 6 pieces 3" long and 4 about 1" for the bumpers, drill the holes in both sides about 7/16, buy 10 3/8 or 7/16 bolts washers and nuts, and follow the instructions in the tech section for install. If you can weld buy a 2" piece of 5/8" round steel for the shift extentions.
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The zuki gods have smiled down on me, I was able to remove the broken bolt out of the head without having to disassemble anything. Which means, back to the lift ;D! I was thinking that I probably dont need 4 inchs but more like 3. I would like to get some more articulation so what would be a better setup?
1) Jeff's 2" spacer with 1" body lift
2)GV springs with crown vic shocks in the rear (dont know what to do in the front). Would I just leave the front shock stock and can I use front GV springs for the front of my tracker as well? I know I wont get as much lift as the back so how can I compensate for the difference?
I am assuming with these setups I wouldn't need to modify anything, correct?
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I run GV springs up front with a 1.5" strut spacer and found the ride to be quite a bit nicer then the spacer lift. I also run a 1" spacer lift in the rear to level out the rig. That being said, the two spacer lifts sold on the board really are the best bang for your buck and of great quality.
If you want to know about a budget spring lift you can check out the article at Zukiworld - http://zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_sidekickbudgetlift.htm (http://zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_sidekickbudgetlift.htm)
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I run GV springs up front with a 1.5" strut spacer and found the ride to be quite a bit nicer then the spacer lift. I also run a 1" spacer lift in the rear to level out the rig. That being said, the two spacer lifts sold on the board really are the best bang for your buck and of great quality.
If you want to know about a budget spring lift you can check out the article at Zukiworld - [url]http://zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_sidekickbudgetlift.htm[/url] ([url]http://zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_sidekickbudgetlift.htm[/url])
Sorry for the ingnorance getlemen but the more I read the more confused I am getting ???. From what I understood from this article, they switched the rear sidekick srpings and shocks with rear spings and shocks from a E150 van. In the front they swithed the sidekick's front springs with GV springs (doesnt mention if front or rear but I am assuming front springs) and flipped the strut blate but left the sidekick front shocls stock. Is that correct?
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that supports the idea of just gettin the 400 dollar kit and be done with it. by the time you trek all over gods country looking for tidbit's that 400 bones wont seem like much!
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Sorry for the ingnorance getlemen but the more I read the more confused I am getting ???. From what I understood from this article, they switched the rear sidekick srpings and shocks with rear spings and shocks from a E150 van. In the front they swithed the sidekick's front springs with GV springs (doesnt mention if front or rear but I am assuming front springs) and flipped the strut blate but left the sidekick front shocls stock. Is that correct?
That is correct. I put a spacer in as I found with just the strut mount flip my struts would top out when I hit a big bump in the freeway. Just not enough weight on the front end to keep it low.
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that supports the idea of just gettin the 400 dollar kit and be done with it. by the time you trek all over gods country looking for tidbit's that 400 bones wont seem like much!
Kits have their place.
FWIW
The first page of my build http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-2x4-rockers-frnt-bmper-4-dr-sprngs-lwered-frnt-diff-$30-steel-frnt-diff/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-2x4-rockers-frnt-bmper-4-dr-sprngs-lwered-frnt-diff-$30-steel-frnt-diff/) has description of what I experienced with different springs and spacers. The GV rear springs I tried were smaller diameter, and needed the bump stop and bottom positioning cone modified to be used (which is why I never used them).
I am now trying a set of YJ springs on rear, and getting easy 3" lift, bouncing on it seems close to same rate as 4 door springs. I cut smaller end enough to allow it to go over positioning cone, and squeezed the large end in vise enough to bend it so it sets inside of upper spring mount (with rubber ring). It is setting a little tall for the 30" tires I am using (must be a solution to that).
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FWIW
The first page of my build http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-2x4-rockers-frnt-bmper-4-dr-sprngs-lwered-frnt-diff-$30-steel-frnt-diff/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/tracker-2x4-rockers-frnt-bmper-4-dr-sprngs-lwered-frnt-diff-$30-steel-frnt-diff/) has description of what I experienced with different springs and spacers. The GV rear springs I tried were smaller diameter, and needed the bump stop and bottom positioning cone modified to be used (which is why I never used them).
I am now trying a set of YJ springs on rear, and getting easy 3" lift, bouncing on it seems close to same rate as 4 door springs. I cut smaller end enough to allow it to go over positioning cone, and squeezed the large end in vise enough to bend it so it sets inside of upper spring mount (with rubber ring). It is setting a little tall for the 30" tires I am using (must be a solution to that).
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Thanks brd hntr, that was an extensive build page, and very informative.
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What you end up doing to your rig, has as much to do with what can YOU do? Do you have some basic tools, a jack or two, or 4, a vise etc to do this yourself, or are you going to have to pay someone to install it? I would almost bet it would be cheaper to get a set of coils from FOA, front and rears for 75ea. New front struts, bilsteins get a good rep, and some good spacers a decent set of the correct length shock from your local whatever and you'll be golden. The only spacers you'll need are for the struts. All told around $700 plus labor for install and alignment, camber bolts etc. Good stuff and your rig will handle. Any cheaper than that and your looking at useing stock or modified stock parts and doing it in your driveway, but you'll still need to get it aligned. Many people simply do the spacer lifts to stock parts and do just fine, and in some cases be able to hang with more highly modified rigs.
So, the question is what can you do? :)
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What you end up doing to your rig, has as much to do with what can YOU do? Do you have some basic tools, a jack or two, or 4, a vise etc to do this yourself, or are you going to have to pay someone to install it? I would almost bet it would be cheaper to get a set of coils from FOA, front and rears for 75ea. New front struts, bilsteins get a good rep, and some good spacers a decent set of the correct length shock from your local whatever and you'll be golden. The only spacers you'll need are for the struts. All told around $700 plus labor for install and alignment, camber bolts etc. Good stuff and your rig will handle. Any cheaper than that and your looking at useing stock or modified stock parts and doing it in your driveway, but you'll still need to get it aligned. Many people simply do the spacer lifts to stock parts and do just fine, and in some cases be able to hang with more highly modified rigs.
So, the question is what can you do? :)
Well said.
I noticed twice you said alignment. I should have heard it the first time. When I did my motor swap & other modifications I waited a month for the alignment, cause I wasn't sure I was done with adjustments, ect. Front tires went from about 60-70% to about 30%, alignment cost $40, replacement tires will be $170 x 4 (I wanted bigger tires anyways - right).