ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Jluck on August 24, 2010, 09:26:36 PM
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well couldn't find any install pictorials on line so here one is, probably not the best but it should help.
first step is to get the case out and on the bench.
remove the shifter cover
remove roll pin (careful to not drop it in to t/case) (I used a magnet to catch it)
remove large nut on side below shift tower, (remove and discard spring,detent ball and machined t shaped "thingy" you cas see it in middle pic)(its in the cast shift rail hub just back of the roll pin)
remove nut, spring and detent ball from top of case directly above the range rail, there are two identical detent bolts (remove passenger side)
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NEXT>>>>>
turn t/case around, now looking at the front.
remove locking tab on lower gear cluster
remove all bolts
simply pull apart (careful not to loose little steel balls on shaft) ;D
remove lower gear cluster in one piece (there is another steel ball on rear)
gently pull out range rail with fork and engaging ring.
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ALL THAT JUST TO GET WHAT.........
put a magnet down the range shifter hole, about 1" down you will find the pesky "center detent ball" (or "pill) yep that's what your after! ;)
assemble in reverse order.
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next...
remove the shifter sheet (little plastic ring found under stock shifter)
fit the shifters in to there new home. ;D ;D ;D
I used rock4x's shifters and am very happy with the product and tech support the owner Scott is a good guy.
I had to take the shifters apart and put the boot and rings on from the bottom because of the way I bent my levers. FYI
GENTLY tap the lubed base in to shifter tower (making sure the shift sheet is removed)
put on boot and set screws as per rock4x's instructions.
in a nut shell your done!!! ;)
I will finish the interior when I do the interior resto I have planned.
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a couple other useless things....
on my shifters I used heat shrink tubing to add another element of sound/vibration proofing.
the boot is a aftermarket Dana 300 unit.
and here's a pic of the discarded parts from the t/case internals. detent balls (1 from between the rails and 1 from the large nut just below the shifter tower) detent spring and pill both also from large nut below tower. and the shifter sheet.
I do want to say these shifters are sweet!! soooo..crisp and positive, worth every penny! I think there half worn out just from shifting them a million times in the shop!!LOL :laugh:
I hope this posting is of some value. ???
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Those do look good. Makes me want to have a set, maybe after I the Tracker running again. Your photo's make it look easy.
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Good stuff... Thanks for the details.
Zig
TP up
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ah heck your rig don't need to run brd hntr (mine don't, just sit in 'er make motor noises and shift those sticks!!) :laugh:
and it really is easy, if I figured it out anyone can. I have anotherone to do out here soon so I will take better (uncluttered) pics. 8)
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ah heck your rig don't need to run brd hntr (mine don't, just sit in 'er make motor noises and shift those sticks!!) :laugh:
and it really is easy, if I figured it out anyone can. I have anotherone to do out here soon so I will take better (uncluttered) pics. 8)
Here is a sample of my motor noise. the motor does run full time now, just need to get rest of wiring, drive line, etc.
http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/TrackerEngineSwap#5495273182673007586 (http://picasaweb.google.com/CrawlersNW/TrackerEngineSwap#5495273182673007586)
Those are still cool sticks.
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Ya' know, if you guys DON'T stop showing off your latest and greatest gadgets and ideas, I "might" be able to get somewhere with my build A WHOLE LOT sooner. :P Very helpful for another upgrade to my "Rhino".
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Thanks a lot, I'm doing this soon, as soon as my transfer case arrives. Already got the sticks. Want it in ASAP so I can drive this damn thing! September is almost here... >:(
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Thanks for the detailed Right up Jared
-Scott
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The left stick is 2-4, and the right stick controls L-N-H, correct?
Does anyone have a diagram of this shift pattern?
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2wd Low
N
4wd High
;)
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That's the exact pattern that I was picturing, just by looking at the shift rods and comparing their positions to the old pattern on the knob. Thanks for spelling it out like that ;D
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no prob. ;)
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ACTUALLY, mine doesn't follow that pattern. Double check it for me. I'm thinking it's:
4wd Low
Neutral
2wd High
I tried it as you described it, with the case sitting in my lap, and the front output was spinning when the left stick was in the forward position. Compare the old shift pattern to the positions of the shift rails, and it makes sense that 2wd would be with the left stick pulled back, not pushed forward. I think you had the 2-4 pattern reversed accidentally.
Either that, or I have the ultra-rare, backwards-shifting Tracker transfer case :laugh:
Thanks for the detailed Right up Jared
-Scott
Scott, quick question for you. You instructed me over the phone to remove the "pill" at the top of the rear case. I did, to get the sticks back in, but Brent at Trail Tough told me I shouldn't have to remove it. After I put the sticks in, I can re-install the pill and it doesn't affect the shifter, it still goes into L-N-H just fine on the right stick. Do I need to leave it out, or did you tell me to remove it just so it would be easier to slide the stick into the shift shaft?
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I think I'm gonna leave the "pill" in the side at the top. I have to remove it to get the sticks in, but once they're in, the pill fits right back in and doesn't affect anything. I want to leave it in because it feels like there's less side-to-side slop in the stick...the spring puts a little preload on it to tighten it up a bit.
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yep, I think your correct. :-[...its been a long week. lots of work and little sleep. I had to sneak out at 11 pm to work on my kick just to get some time in on 'er (its now 2am) :sleepy:
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It's now 2am here where I am, too...I just came in from working on mine.
You know, there's a joke for people like you and I that are constantly busy...they say "when do you ever have time to ___?" and you say "oh between midnight and 2am" well in this case, it's TRUE :laugh:
I just got my oil pan and rear main put up and the front axle put back together. I've tightened the bolts already, but I'm gonna let that RTV set up and torque it down in the morning when I return home from class.
Also, picked up my steam cleaner yesterday, so today I steamed my skidplates, trans/t-case assy. and some other small stuff. Nice and shiny...got the old t-case removed and will get the new case bolted to the trans tomorrow so I can get it up as soon as the flywheel and clutch are bolted up. It's coming together quickly ;D
Oh, and don't forget the ricer taillights I just had to put on ::) I can only hope they last long enough and don't turn yellow.
Jluck, also, is that the Dana 300 twin boot you've got? Like the shifter knobs 8)
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I'm just catching up on some these posts....Nice write up JLuck.
I installed a twinstick in my Geo when I went to 4:1. I was fortunate enough to buy a tcase with the gears already installed. When I installed my twinstick I did NOT take the case apart. So now you got me wandering if thats going to be an issue.... I'm pretty sure I was told that all I have to do is take that big bolt/guide, remove the spring and ball. I can't remember if I removed one ball or two not sure....hmmmm....gonna have to dig through some pictures....
Its been working fine, so idk atm. Well anyways, nice info.
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I'm pretty sure I was told that all I have to do is take that big bolt/guide, remove the spring and ball.
That's the one at the rear case near the shifter case...but the other detent ball is internally, I believe it is between the two shift shafts, and prevents you from going into N or LO unless in 4wd...but you say it all works, shifts into 2 and 4, high neutral and low, no problems? ...maybe the person who sold you the case had already had a twin stick and removed that internal detent ???
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"I'm pretty sure I was told that all I have to do is take that big bolt/guide, remove the spring and ball. "
if you can get 2wd low range the detent ball is gone. its the one in between the shift rails that you MUST remove the shifter fork to access. see pics. (the one with the little blue magnet stick in) shows the ball. its not spring loaded just a floater that one shift rail pops out to keep from getting in to low range with out being in 4wd. 8) clear as mud?
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Well "I" didnt remove any ball between the shift rails, because I did not crack open the case. And no the seller did not know I was going to be in the twinstick, but maybe they left it out for the possiblity of the later upgrade....idk....
I posted in this picture in a previous post....these are the only parts I removed...
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff317/heiney5/Ditch%20Witch/RemovedSpringandBallwGuide.jpg)
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/t-case-4-24-install-please-help/msg228432/#msg228432 (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/technical-discussion-performance-modify/t-case-4-24-install-please-help/msg228432/#msg228432)
they talk about this very "ball" in this thread. You would have thought I would have thought about it then. Hmmm.
I do have 2lo and twinsticks, so if 2lo is only possible with this internal ball removed, then I guess someone else removed it.....yay for me. I got lucky for once....
SO the lesson here for me is to remove this ball when ever I open up a tcase, twinstick is so worth it. Thanks again for the Good write-up.
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heiney.5, I had to remove that in order to install the sticks, but I re-installed it...and it all works fine...if anything, the spring takes up some of the slack in the sticks, they don't have so much wobble now
I just put a small bend in each stick, 3" down, bent them outwards...painted flat black...they look good, and shift great...the inside DOES look like a forklift now :laugh:
but seriously, it's almost running (just have to add gear oil), then I will REALLY get a chance to try them out.
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what brand twin sticks are you running
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Rock4x
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can you get me a link to were to get them?
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Call Scott at rock4x. 1 (847) 672-9653
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Ok I finally got my gears and twin sticks in. It wasn't that hard other than me trying to get in a hurry and not thinking logically!! hahaha
L
N
4wd H
2wd
This is how my stick are positioned. I don't like it. Maybe I just need to do some bending or cutting?
What should I use for a boot, Dana 300 twin?
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I used a different boot, trying to think of where I got it at....they include a Stainless steel plate, left, and the stock cover plate is on the right. I got it from JB Fabriction http://www.jbfab.net/cgi-bin/miva?/Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=JCFCS&Category_Code=Boots (http://www.jbfab.net/cgi-bin/miva?/Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=JCFCS&Category_Code=Boots)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1187.jpg)
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1188.jpg)
I will bend my Twin sticks backwards sorta like the stock shifter and use the stock hole.
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I was just doing some looking around and found those. Thanks
What did you use for an "internal boot" directly over the sticks?
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I have the Rock4X twins and his boot for the TC
(http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1204.jpg)
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Keep and eye on that boot, I had one and it tore apart in only a few months. Very thin material, too lightweight for the long haul.
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I have the Rock4X twins and his boot for the TC
([url]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1204.jpg[/url])
Talonxracer , have you install your twin stick kit yet ? what was the cost ? ???
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I have the Rock4X twins and his boot for the TC
([url]http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1204.jpg[/url])
Talonxracer , have you install your twin stick kit yet ? what was the cost ? ???
They are on sale for today and tomarrow for $129.99
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is this can be done on a 2nd generation tracker ot vitara? i love this alot. would be nice to have it as well.
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This is for 89 to 97 or 98 side kick/ tracker