ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: djlantis57 on June 26, 2009, 12:19:09 PM
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Installing 2 more gauges in my dash panel, voltmeter and oil pressure. Question for anyone who did this already:
Do I remove the factory sensor and install the gauge sensor in this port (rear port above oil filter), or can I use the other port next to it (the left port above the oil filter)? I am wondering if the left port is left for some other purpose, or if it an "auxiliary" port for installing a gauge like I am?
I included a picture. Click on it to enlarge
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i used the factory port and it works fine.
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So what do you do with that factory connection? Leave it hanging? Does the idiot light malfunction at all with that disconnected? I can't even figure out how to disconnect that one, that plastic cover seems stuck on pretty tight
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The 'aux' port is too small to take a standard size adapter, you want an M10x1 thread for the block. I bought an adapter with the M10 thread to the block, an M10 thread for the stock oil pressure switch and a 1/8 NPT thread for the gauge. The T piece is remotely mounted with a flexible pipe to the block, I have heard of the solid T pieces cracking.
Some ECUs require the connection to the oil pressure switch.
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Is the wire that is already there an actual pressure sensor? Or does it just shut off the engine if there is no oil present? Mine is an electrical sensor; if I could tap into that, I can try to find an electrical pressure gage instead of mechanical
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Listen to the Rhinoman - especially about that flex.
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I am confused, and I just spent an hour at the auto parts store and gained no progress. That thread pitch on the OEM sensor is impossible to find. I am confused: rhinoman, did you use an electrical or mechanical gauge? If electrical, did you just use the OEM sensor for the idiot light? If mechanical, did you use the front port that is plugged up?
After reading more carefully, your setup goes BLOCK -> flex line -> tee fitting -> SPLIT into -> M10x1.0 OEM idiot light sensor and SPLIT -> 1/8" new gauge sensor tubing??? That way you retain usage of the OEM idiot light, and add in the new gauge tube?
Where did you buy that adapter and flex line???
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I used a mechanical gauge on mine I just unscrewed the one there and treaded the adaptor that comes with the guage in then ran the little hose in the cab and hooked the gauge up. I dont remember what i did with the wire that is there. but i dont have any lights on or anything.
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No the standard idiot light sensor cannot be used with a gauge - it is a switch, either on or off, you MUST get a sensor that matches the gauge you are using if you use an electrical gauge.
I've used the Equus gauge sets (available from Walmart among other places) and they come with a metric M10x1 to 1/8 NPT adapter that screws directly into the factory port - these adapters are also sold separately by both Equus and Autogage and may be available off the rack at your local AutoZone of whatever you have in your neck of the woods.
It might also be an idea to use 1/8 copper line rather than the 1/8 nylon that is usually provided with the gauge - two reasons, one - if you kink it, that's it, two - it has a tendency to creep in the unions and may leak, I had one leak at the gauge (which was mounted above the CD deck - which has never worked since)
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I see. Yes, I bought two Equus gages at Kragen. A voltmeter and mechanical oil pressure. Today I found out there IS an electrical oil pressure for twice as much $$$ and requires a corresponding sensor to work with it. Rhinoman, do you have a picture of that tee/adapter you can post up? I wasn't able to use the adapters in the Equus tubing kit, they are not the same M10x1.0...look close but a lot coarser and slightly larger, I believe 1/4" NPT.
I think I actually have some of that copper in my tubing stash in the garage...
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Mine is an electrical gauge. The adapter is this one, although I bought it seperately from a local motor factors
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUBARU-OIL-PRESSURE-OIL-TEMP-GAUGE-FITTING-FULL-KIT_W0QQitemZ350214595394QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item518a6aa342&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1689%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50
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I'll be trying to track down adapters. Will the other plug in the block give the same reading as if i used the original one? Has anyone done this?
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The other problem I was having is that at the auto parts store, half of the items marked "M10x1.0" matched my OEM sensor's threads, and the other half didn't. It was impossible to find. There's an Autozone and NAPA I have yet to check though
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From memory, the other hole goes into the same galley so will give the same reading but its something like an M6 or M8 thread.
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I've gotta work today, my dad is going to the local auto specialty place (deals with VW specialty) and finding the metric thread pitch for a flex line, tee, and 1/8 npt for the gage
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I see. Yes, I bought two Equus gages at Kragen. A voltmeter and mechanical oil pressure. Today I found out there IS an electrical oil pressure for twice as much $$$ and requires a corresponding sensor to work with it. Rhinoman, do you have a picture of that tee/adapter you can post up? I wasn't able to use the adapters in the Equus tubing kit, they are not the same M10x1.0...look close but a lot coarser and slightly larger, I believe 1/4" NPT.
I think I actually have some of that copper in my tubing stash in the garage...
Maybe you're not looking at the same part I'm looking at - one side (male) is M10x1.0 and the other side (female) in 1/8 NPT, you have to put the adapter into the block and then screw the 1/8NPT fitting into it and then add the 1/8 line, ferrule etc.
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Well I just ran all over town (again). Autozone-nope. Kragen-nope. A VW specialty place-nope. National Hardware (Ace) store-nope. The problem is, I'm in the US and NOBODY carries ANYTHING for METRIC PIPE THREAD. It's IMPOSSIBLE right now. Even the biggest local hardware store here is trying to find an importer for Metric pipe thread, since they have so many people like me asking for it.
M10x1.0 is not the right thread size; my OEM sensor is tapered, a pipe thread, that matches up to nothing.
I just need whatever this odd metric size is, I need adapters for that, to go to 1/8" NPT. That's all I need, anyone know where I can get that?
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M10x1.0 is not the right thread size;
Have you measured it?
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http://www.amazon.com/Equus-Pressure-Electronic-Metric-Adapter/dp/B000GKD5TM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1246165023&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Equus-Pressure-Electronic-Metric-Adapter/dp/B000GKD5TM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1246165023&sr=8-1)
or find an AutoMeter stockist and take your pick.
Autometer #2265 - 1/8 NPT to M10x1.0
Autometer #2266 - 1/8 NPT to M12x1.0
Autometer #2267 - 1/8 NPT to M14x1.5
Autometer #2268 - 1/8 NPT to M16x1.5
Autometer #2269 - 1/8 NPT to 1/8 BSPT
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M10x1.0 is not the right thread size;
Have you measured it?
Nobody has a thread that matches it whatsoever, so we can't even find out the correct thread pitch. It's different from M10x1.0, that thread doesn't match, cause my sensor has "tapered" threads like NPT threads...M10x1.0 is a straight (bolt style) thread, so no taps/dies match what I have, it's like NPT but in Metric because of that taper. I tried matching it to an M10x1.0 and it is too different to work.
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Maybe I'm on a wild goose chase here...
I'm running around town with my ASSUMED OEM sensor...
what if it is one that someone has replaced with a bastard thread size sensor, and I am tracking down the wrong adapters, when my block really is M10x1.0??? Is it supposed to be a fitting with a tapered style thread pitch, or not?
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yes its a tapered thread i.e pipe thread. it is a m10x1 thread also.
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it is a m10x1 thread also.
M10x1.0 tapered pipe thread? My last bet in Fresno I will check out tomorrow, they carry virtually everything as far as piping and tubing go, like new gas lines for cars, etc...so maybe they have my metric adapters and a tee and flex tubing that'll work
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I ran into the same problems trying to find an adapter for mine when I built my turbo . I finally gave up, quit wasting time, and made a bottom tap from a regular 1/8 npt tap, and just rethreaded the oil sender hole. I greased up the tap to capture as much debris as possible, slowley and carefully ran the tap in to the threads which were already very close, cleaned it out thouroughly, and it's worked great ever since, 3 yrs, no leaks. Then I was able to use common 1/8th npt fittings from wherever, and put in the tee, and use both the idiot lite sender and the oil pressure guage. BTW, I use an Auto Meter Electric Oil Pressure guage. The sending unit still needs to be plumbed to your engine oil fitting, but only one wire runs into the cab. No oil in the cab.
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Thats the same thing I did with my Samurai, except mine is mechanical, over 4+ yrs no leaks, Use the 1/8 tap and use some teflon tape on the threads. you should have no problems.
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We went to CSC Central Supply Co in Fresno, CA today. They do all sorts of tubing and crimp ends etc. Helped us on our K5 Blazer gas lines in the past. Got a 20" SS-braid flex line, to a brass 1/8" NPT tee (3 female sides), and a special fitting. Found out the sensor is, indeed, not M10x1.0 thread, but a bastard British thread (imagine that: Suzuki=Japan, uses a British thread on the block and sensor???). Anyways, American 1/8" NPT is 1/8-27...the British is 1/8-28...one thread pitch off. So we got an adapter for a STRAIGHT 1/8-28 (not the more correct tapered, as it would be two days to ship) to go to the end of the 20" flex. The 1/8-28 thread goes into the block quite a ways, then stiffens up...Liquid Wrench and careful screwing in and backing off a few threads at a time are doing just fine to get it in the rest of the way. Then, the OEM sensor threads into the standard 1/8" NPT tee, with a little RTV silicone to back it up. Problem solved! Finish it tomorrow (I had to work tonight). Run the nylon tube through the firewall and sheath it in wire loom and keep a careful eye out for leaks, and I'm good to go. Hopefully do it all tomorrow so I can take some pictures of the "finished" dash ;D
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FINISHED: thought I'd post pics of what worked and what didn't:
so an 1/8-28 fitting into the block, built-in o-ring seal. Then 20" of SS flex, to a 1/8"-NPT tee female-three-way. sensor in one side, oil line in the other, to gauge. here's a few pics of how it turned out.
I cut a random o-ring to help isolate the line and eliminate rubbing/chafing, and secured it all to the driver's strut mount fender area.
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and more...
...and the dash panel all done. I was able to tie into the dimmer circuit using the old ashtray's light wiring, and they dim with the rest of the gauges. No interference with stereo face, or anything. And the CB mic is close enough to reach too
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;) NICE!
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I had to do the same on my honda they use BSP (british standard pipe thread as well) if you do a search for 1/8 bsp fitting they can easily be found. its just knowing what you are looking for is the hard part!
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;) NICE!
THANKS that ss plate was hard to figure out how to mount, I used a series of "L" brackets for reinforcement and mounting locations. its just knowing what you are looking for is the hard part!
Pretty much. Once I got it, I finished it quickly
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Great Thread! :) I am thinking about doing this and this thread helps alot!
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The 2-1/16" gauges can be a pain to mount in smaller vehicles - I use the 1-1/2" ones, they fit very neatly into a single DIN space, and can be made to look like a factory install.
I'm away from home right now, but when I get back (in a couple of days) I'll post pics of the gauge install in my Swift, and I'll be doing an install in my Grand Vitara soon, so I'll show you that also.
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I had found smaller gauges, and I knew the dash would have to be cut anyways, so I fit whatever I could find at the local auto parts store, which was the 2" ones. Plus, I didn't care about the ashtray, and the cigarette lighter I thought was dead (which I found out it is "ignition hot" only)...so I added two gauges and two new power receptacles