ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: muskegtracker on May 26, 2009, 05:29:15 PM
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Alright! I've been wanting to do a build thread here for ages, but due to lack of time and hesitation to dive in angle grinder spinning has discouraged my forward progress with my Tracker. Here's my attempt at catching you up to speed on these last few years...
I purchased my 91 Tracker back in 2000, I think. It had 298,000kms on it, the body was mint but the engine was toast. Wouldn't do better than 80 km/hr (50 mph). So I rebuilt the engine.
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_26_05_09_5_09_19.jpg)
Put 235's on it and then a 3" body lift.
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_26_05_09_5_18_22.jpg)
Now Mr T needed better boots:
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_26_05_09_5_19_05.jpg)
I deleted the body lift and 30x9.50's in the name of practicality. Once I got my head straight
(practicality ???) the next addition was a turbo:
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_26_05_09_5_24_09.jpg)
I wanted to build a long travel, or at least a lift for the suspension so an easy start was extending the trailing arms:
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_26_05_09_5_28_18.JPG)
Sorry I got to cut the story short. I have to run, but I'll finish when I get back...
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More pics and details PLEASE!
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Yes. Waiting for the trailing arm build.
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Hi guys.
I have been busy modifying the control arms these last couple of days. I forgot my camera, but I'll get pics of it today.
As for the trailing arm mod:
I cut off the frame mount, sleeved it, and welded it into the cross member that is forward of the original location. If I remember correctly it added about 19 inches of distance to the mount.
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_28_05_09_5_52_21.JPG)
Below you can see the original mount and the new location. As you may notice the body mount is was integrated into the arm mount. So I made sure to leave a bit of the vertical material for strength. Then using my weapon of choice (sawzall) I gently removed the mount!
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_28_05_09_5_54_15.JPG)
Before I removed anything, I blocked the tires so they wouldn't move. Then removing the rear springs and jacking it to ride height, I removed one trailing arm, cut off the mount, relocated it. Cut the trailing arm closer to one end (just personal preference...I think, it's been a while). I reinstalled the two ends in their respective locations. Then checked measurements between the axle and the frame on each side, confirming they were the same, I tacked in the sleeve. Then removed the new trailing arm and finished welding and painting.
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_28_05_09_5_53_15.JPG)
Repeat on the other side. I actually screwed up the first time. I got out on the road and realized it was dog-tracking bad. I went back and remeasured. Found where I went wrong, ground out the welds and fixed it. I've put a few thousand miles on these now, wheeling and highway. The only issue I've had is on full flex the trailing arm occasionally bumps the bolt on the body mount but only on fast ROUGH terrain. Because I plan on lifting it, I consider this no real issue.
If any of you are wondering, I lengthened the arms to decrease plunge of the drive shaft into and out of the transmission. Especially helpful for long travel or lifted applications. The closer the pivot points of the trailing arm are to the U-joints of the drive shaft, the less plunge there will be. ;D
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_28_05_09_6_14_25.JPG)
More to come soon...the image below is what gave me a big "idea" I've been stewing over for months. This week, crunch time before a trip this weekend, I decided I would "JUST DO IT!".
(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/gallery/0/2982_28_05_09_6_26_55.jpg)
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Nice. How 'bout some pics of your turbo? Always interested in other turbo setups.
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Nice. How 'bout some pics of your turbo? Always interested in other turbo setups.
My turbo setup has changed a bit since this pic, and truthfully I would have done it a little different. A couple of years ago, I was getting itchy to put a turbo in. I starting looking around and pricing out materials and parts. Then I came across a guy who had built a setup for his Tracker. I wanted to ask him some questions about it. You know, get the lesser known details about installing a turbo. He told me he was selling the motor and all turbo parts for far less than I could build just the turbo kit. So I bought it. So, not my design, but works well.
The hood scoop is functional to fit, and provide air, for the top mount intercooler. (For some reason it would let me load these pictures onto my gallery so I posted them on photobucket.)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/mrT04.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/mrt03.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/mrT05.jpg)
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Can you recall what error you were getting while trying to upload into the Gallery? I'd like to fix that if there is a problem.
-Eric
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Can you recall what error you were getting while trying to upload into the Gallery? I'd like to fix that if there is a problem.
-Eric
Yeah, it said something like "Error - file type incorrect" ?
I'll try again tonight and I'll PM you with the error if it is any different.
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Can you recall what error you were getting while trying to upload into the Gallery? I'd like to fix that if there is a problem.
-Eric
Yeah, it said something like "Error - file type incorrect" ?
I'll try again tonight and I'll PM you with the error if it is any different.
Thanks....
-Eric
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;) Nice turbo setup. All together pretty cool mods.
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;) Nice turbo setup. All together pretty cool mods.
Thanks! It a never ending WIP (work in progress)... 8)
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So, a few of us are going out wheeling this weekend and I got ambitious. I've wanted to lift the front for ages, and as I said in a previous post I was inspired by the photo of a chopped and dropped control arm. I figure, hey, if you can do it to lower you can do it to lift too. So here I go:
The original measurements for frame clearance are 8.5" front and 10" rear.
I was tired of the front tires rubbing on the kickboard/firewall so I wanted to move the tires forward. If you've ever looked under your rig, you'd notice that the cv axles actually angle to the rear. Why? I don't know. A combination of lifting, widening, and extending was my goal.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01848.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01853.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01858.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01855.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01868.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01873.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01883.jpg)
I fab'd a new balljoint mounting plate and chopped up the A-arm. Put it where I wanted it then re-enforced it. The new location for the ball joint was 2" forward, 1.5" down, and 1/2" wider. I repeated the process for both sides. Throughout the process I checked and double checked that there was not rubbing or binding or hitting throughout the travel and steering changes.
Then I painted and installed them. I flipped the strut mounts to get back some of my suspension travel, but I think I need to upgrade to the OME ones. When it was all installed I ended up with 2 inches of lift in the front. To level it out I laser cut 3/4" spacers for the rear. I had already installed crown vic shocks, so the spacer install was easy.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01877.jpg)
To finish off I measured the frame, front and rear to get the after measurements...
10.5" front
11" rear
I measured the fender to tire and found them to be the same front to back. So now it's got some mad clearance (compared to stock). The control arms are up out of the way giving equal ground clearance across the whole underside.
Time to go wheelin' 8)
If you have any questions ask away!
P.S. - My reasoning:
If I didn't explain it well enough before, my intent was to lift the Tracker enough to get some decent clearance without sacrificing much stability. I guess for me the optimum height for stability/clearance is when the centerline through the axles line up with the bottom of the undercarriage.
I'd love to hear your comments!
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01880.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC01881.jpg)
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That widening looks great. I don't know why on earth Geo/Suzuki made the tires sit so far back in the wheelwells...pushing them forward looks great and must work great. I like the intercooler!!! I'd rather have that, than have it blocking my radiator. I'm gonna watch this build closely
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You discovered a new way to do this: http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm (http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/feature_hagan_frontendmod.htm)
If you can figure out a way to use Toyota CV's, that would be sweet ;D
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;) I love to see modified stock parts do the job, Great work!
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that looks great i like to see where people take stock parts make them work the wat they want good job dude
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Nice work.
Have you had it aligned, or is the parallel plywood panels good enough? If you had it aligned how did you camber come out?
What size tires are you running?
Do you have any other lift?
Is there an improvement in handling?
Are you doing the drivers side CV mod?
With the ball joint out further (and then axle bearing), is it easier to slip CV joints in and out? (With my lifts, I have to really raise the A arm to lessen the angle it comes through, this might make it easier.)
Waiting to see what else has happened to your tracker. And thanks for sharing.
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Nice work.
Have you had it aligned, or is the parallel plywood panels good enough? If you had it aligned how did you camber come out?
What size tires are you running?
Do you have any other lift?
Is there an improvement in handling?
Are you doing the drivers side CV mod?
With the ball joint out further (and then axle bearing), is it easier to slip CV joints in and out? (With my lifts, I have to really raise the A arm to lessen the angle it comes through, this might make it easier.)
Waiting to see what else has happened to your tracker. And thanks for sharing.
Thanks everyone for the comments.
The MDF that I used for aligning it worked well...but I was putting a few hundred miles on it this weekend and didn't want to wear out my tires. That said it took me two attempts to get it pretty good. After the first try, I took it for a drive and when I returned I noticed the outter lugs were black while the inner lugs, just dirty tire. So I'm sure that was a sign of too much toe in. The problem was keeping the panels straight. They would bow a bit and if I wasn't watching close, one of them could easily have moved during adjustments and measuring. After the second attempt, I was more careful. After a drive there were no signs of misalignment. So I called it good. Then, like I mentioned about, I doubted my work and the distance I had to cover the next few days, I decided to get it done at a shop. I probably wasted my money, cause the feel of the ride after the alignment was the same.
Camber was perfect - according to the alignment shop - and caster is still within acceptable limits.
I run 235 75 15 Kumho Road Venture M/T. (I really like these tires.)
No, I have no other lift. Just the modified control arm and 3/4" spacer in the back.
The handling is the same, but the approach angle is amazing!
No plans for the drivers CV mod as of yet...
I have not tried to remove the axle since the mod was completed.
Thanks BRD HNTR!
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The suspension worked great last weekend...but the engine didn't like it. It started ticking real bad and after a few hundred miles - "bang-clunk-clunk" (or something like that), the oil pressure dropped as fast as it dumped out all over the ground. :( Time for a new motor and other goodies...
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Are you going to put in a different engine of stick with a 1.6L 8v? Cause I might be interested in that turbo and intercooler... 8)
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Did you check for rubbing when the wheel travels up? (compression on the strut)
It looks like the CV axle might rub on the lower control arm under certain postions...
Bryce
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Did you check for rubbing when the wheel travels up? (compression on the strut)
It looks like the CV axle might rub on the lower control arm under certain postions...
Bryce
It is close, but no rubbing. I cycled the suspension up and down with the wheels turned left and right, before I finished welding anything - no rubbing.
Thanks though! ;D
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Are you going to put in a different engine of stick with a 1.6L 8v? Cause I might be interested in that turbo and intercooler... 8)
:'( I don't know if I could...
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You should unbolt the front struts and see how far down your suspension can go before hitting, if you intend to lift it more.
Good design and fabrication, looks awesome.
Bryce
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I've been busy and it's been forever since I've posted an update. ::)
I blew the engine a couple months ago and am finally getting around to fixing it. I still haven't got it pulled out, so I can't tell you what failed yet, but as soon as I know I'll pass it on. I've got a very long list of things to do which include:
-New exhaust manifold for the turbo
-Water/air intercooler
-Upper control arms... ;D
-Engine rebuild and install
-Body work and patch small rust holes in the floor
-New rear control arm
-Bumpers
-Cut out rockers and install rock tubes (hate to do that when they don't have an ounce of rust)
-Relocate rear spring perches for taller springs
-Lift it more >:D
I'm sure I'll add to this list as it progresses...
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sounds like its going to be a monster for next year... all you guys keep building your trucks bigger and bigger, just to make mine look smaller and smaller...
your tracker even made mine look a cheerleaders beach crusier (ok, with some grille damage...)
gotta get some lift and tires on mine soon...
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sounds like its going to be a monster for next year... all you guys keep building your trucks bigger and bigger, just to make mine look smaller and smaller...
your tracker even made mine look a cheerleaders beach crusier (ok, with some grille damage...)
gotta get some lift and tires on mine soon...
Well, you better get to it! ;)
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With much delay, I bring photos! I've pulled the engine - the con-rod is broken :(. So I've got my "new" engine on the stand and will be checking it over and doing a little cleanup and detail as well as a new exhaust manifold.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02310.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02308.jpg)
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Update on the progress...doesn't seem like much, but I've cleaned the engine pretty good and now have been working on the new turbo exhaust.
What do you think?
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02373-1.jpg)
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I like keeping up to date on this post. You were able to make your own turbo and intercooler setup work. You made your own suspension lift and the "widening" mod on the front and made it even better than that. Always good to see what people can do while keeping things basic and do-it-yourself 100%. Props to you! 8)
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I like keeping up to date on this post. You were able to make your own turbo and intercooler setup work. You made your own suspension lift and the "widening" mod on the front and made it even better than that. Always good to see what people can do while keeping things basic and do-it-yourself 100%. Props to you! 8)
Thanks! :-[
There is definitely some satisfaction to building your own junk. Plus, no one else has one like yours. >:D
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is it done yet? you gotta bring it out again this year... were all looking at taking another trip out there again this october. just try not to blow it up again... unless you have a spare spare engine... :laugh:
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is it done yet? you gotta bring it out again this year... were all looking at taking another trip out there again this october. just try not to blow it up again... unless you have a spare spare engine... :laugh:
Yeah, yeah, yeah...October - should be done by then... >:D
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Looks Great.
Throw the APC muffler in the trash
LOL
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Looks Great.
Throw the APC muffler in the trash
LOL
Haha!
I messed it up on a hill. (It was the furthest out point for my departure angle.) kinked it 45 degrees up. :laugh: So, there will be no can of rice after I install the new engine. Who needs a muffler when you have a turbo anyway? ???
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I've finished the exhaust manifold.
In the pictures are the old manifold and the new one.
The bottom pic shows the manifolds in the same direction as they would be on the engine. See how I changed the orientation of the turbo? (down instead of up)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02411.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02412.jpg)
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Well I dropped the oil pan in my old engine. Check out the carnage! :'(
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02425.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02418.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02420.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02423.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02424.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02424.jpg)
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Good god man......you let a bolt fly around? =/
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Short block still looks goood.
:laugh: :laugh:
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Short block still looks goood.
:laugh: :laugh:
Oh yeah!
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Work has been going slow, even though I've spent many hours, you can't really tell.
The engine is almost in! I've cleaned it all up now I've just got a few items to clean up before I drop it in...tomorrow.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02495.jpg)
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What do you think caused the con rod to break in the old engine?
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What do you think caused the con rod to break in the old engine?
I think it was a combination of worn out engine and too much skinny pedal. It first started to knock after I attempted to get out of some mud (Well you gotta clean the tires!). It got worse as I had to drive 4 hours to get home. I just about made it there when she let loose.
So, I suspect the initial damage was caused by high revs and excessive clearance between the bearing and the crank shaft. Therefore causing inadequate lubrication, or film, if you will between the two surfaces. The engine did have a lot of miles on it.
Just a guess...
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A quick pic of the progress of my winch bumper:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02518.jpg)
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what winch is it a gorilla wireless?
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what winch is it a gorilla wireless?
Warn M8000. It's sweet.
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Nice job on the turbo manifold, now when you're done making yours (the prototype) when are you going to start on mine? :laugh:
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I made a comment in another thread about camber issues after lift spacers (here: http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php/topic,26603.new.html) so I thought I would post it here too:
I've been driving it for a while now. Love it! Excellent approach angle, good ride quality, and maximum use of strut travel. Each ball joint mount was moved .5" out, 1.5" down, and 2" forward. In the end it yielded 2" of lift at the frame rails. I then did the strut mount flip and added 1.5" strut spacer to get my travel back. My CV's run at a slight angle - nothing to worry about. The best part is that it gave me approximately 2" of clearance under the whole front end.
As for the camber issues, I never even unbolted the struts for this mod, When I assembled the final product the camber looked perfect. I took it in for an alignment and they told me camber was bang on. I would definitely recommend this mod to anyone looking to squeeze on larger tires, for more clearance, and maintaining stock ride qualities. That said if I did it again I would not relocate the ball joint a full 2" as it did cause some minor clearance issues. Probably 1"-1.5" would be right on.
You can check out a little video I made last weekend after installing a spool in the rear end. In part of the video I drive up onto a large cement pipe without issue this demonstrates one of big benefits to the control arm mod. >:D My stock toe-loop did snag a little on exit, but I'm planning on relocating that anyway. I'm only running 235's. I imagine if you put 31's or 33's on it the tires would stick out past most of the offending chassis points.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzZ6waALYMU
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nice build...what did you use for the manifold pipe? Are they schedual 40 elbows? I dropped a rod on my engine too and it made a big mess. keep the pics coming and good luck with the build.
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nice build...what did you use for the manifold pipe? Are they schedual 40 elbows? I dropped a rod on my engine too and it made a big mess. keep the pics coming and good luck with the build.
Thanks! Yah, I used SCH 40 elbows.
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Sweet lord I love this thing! Moar pics!!!!! :(
And you gotta tell me how you pulled the motor out and rebuilt it! If I ever get around to doing mine....I'll need some help for sure. ???
I'd like to at least put a 16v head on my crappy little 8v 1.6 liter motor. All depends on what kind of budget I let myself have for this "project".
/subscribed forever!
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Thanks! I don't really have much to say about an engine rebuild...I definitely don't have any pictures of it. It's pretty much just like you see in a Haynes manual or other similar book. I had some great tips and help from a local machine shop as it was my first rebuild, and so far my only rebuild.
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I just wanted to say I love the build so far. I really like the control arm mod a lot. Great idea.
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Awesome video! Now I REALLY want a spool!!! :o
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Thanks guys!
Here are some better pics of the hood and winch bumper:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02613.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02551.jpg)
and this is how we load 'em:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02519.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02530.jpg)
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So, a couple of issues have come up:
#1 - the turbo is in need of a major rebuild: New turbine and shaft, compressor wheel, etc.
#2 - the front seal on the engine leaks, very badly. (It should have been rebuilt before I installed it...oh well.)
I weighed my options and costs and decided to begin a casual search for a V6. Not just any V6, but an aluminum block V6. I want the power and torque of the V6 without the mondo weight of cast iron.
A mighty miracle occured! I scored a 2006 XL-7 for a VERY good price with only 76,000kms. So now, instead of a 80 hp hamster, or the 100 - 120+ hp hamster on a leaf blower (Thanks Chris), it'll be a 185 hp dual overhead cam, 24 valve, raging fury! >:D PLUS I'll be running the 5 speed auto tranny instead of the 5 speed manual I'm currently running.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02735.jpg)
The XL-7 when I first picked it up.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02737.jpg)
The reason it was cheap.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02768.jpg)
Naked XL-7! It's amazing how many similarities in chassis design and dimension between the old and the new.
Mr T - body removal (The John Deere Method)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02785.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02786.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02789.jpg)
A comparison photo:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02790.jpg)
Mr T with the new engine and tranny sitting in place!
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02811.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02810.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02817.jpg)
I did all this over the course of two long Saturdays. Now I just need to fab up some new engine mounts! The tranny mount should bolt right up, in the stock location.
I'm sure some of you are wondering about the driveline: Yes, the tranny is about 5 inches longer, the front drive shaft from the XL-7 is longer than the tracker original and will bolt up, the rear drive shaft will have to be shortened approx 5 inches.
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Wow, those look so much alike! Shorten her up and you could have another tracker!
Impressive work, going to be sweet. Now you can turn bigger meats if you wish with no problem!
What are you doin with the steel front diff/thirdmember?
Bryce
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...What are you doin with the steel front diff/thirdmember?
Bryce
I'm pretty sure I'll use it. If I don't I'll let you know. ;) I've actually got quite a few things that I will be trying to swap over, including the front brakes, CV's, rack and pinion. I'll probably build a disc conversion so the rear can accept the original brakes from the front. We'll see how far I take it...
Oh that reminds me! If anyone needs cosmetic parts from a 2006 XL-7 I've got some. Like -Fenders, Headlights,Taillights, Side molding, Carpet, Spare tire cover, Doors, etc. I'll be posting items with pictures in the classifieds in the next few days.
Thanks for looking
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Hold on guys...I gotta go grab my crane to move my tracker body around...Show off! haha :P
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I like your motor change procedure. I am trying to squeeze my 2.7 in from the top, and have tight clearance issues. Now that I see yours just sitting there it gives me more inspiration. I scored the motor/tranny/ecm & wiring, but have found lots of broken parts, and being newer vintage, some parts are hard to find. Getting the donor vehicle is going to be a major plus for you. How does the pan and rear crossmember look? As you start fastening it down, I would really enjoy some closeup photos.
Your body removal tool is awesome. Keep the photos coming.
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I like your motor change procedure. I am trying to squeeze my 2.7 in from the top, and have tight clearance issues. Now that I see yours just sitting there it gives me more inspiration. I scored the motor/tranny/ecm & wiring, but have found lots of broken parts, and being newer vintage, some parts are hard to find. Getting the donor vehicle is going to be a major plus for you. How does the pan and rear crossmember look? As you start fastening it down, I would really enjoy some closeup photos.
Your body removal tool is awesome. Keep the photos coming.
Thanks!
The stock tracker tranny cross-member works perfect with the new tranny. I got it all mocked up - minus engine mounts and dropped the body on to see how it fits and where it hits. It hit the brake lines and the exhaust was very close to the fire wall. but it fits in there! The problem is that the engine is too tall in the front. With the hood sitting on it there was about a 2 inch gap. I thought...hmmm cowl induction hood...nope I want it to be a sleeper. So a 3 inch body lift is in the works. I'm almost done; just two mounts left to do. Since this engine will never leave the Tracker I cut off the body mounts and moved them up 3 inches (instead of using blocks) for more clearance on the sides of the frame. I also lifted the gas tank up, and installed a 2" receiver at the rear. I've got this whole week off so I'm hoping to have it running by the weekend. Ambitious? Maybe!
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The stock tracker tranny cross-member works perfect with the new tranny. I got it all mocked up - minus engine mounts and dropped the body on to see how it fits and where it hits. It hit the brake lines and the exhaust was very close to the fire wall. but it fits in there! The problem is that the engine is too tall in the front. With the hood sitting on it there was about a 2 inch gap. I thought...hmmm cowl induction hood...nope I want it to be a sleeper. So a 3 inch body lift is in the works. I'm almost done; just two mounts left to do. Since this engine will never leave the Tracker I cut off the body mounts and moved them up 3 inches (instead of using blocks) for more clearance on the sides of the frame. I also lifted the gas tank up, and installed a 2" receiver at the rear. I've got this whole week off so I'm hoping to have it running by the weekend. Ambitious? Maybe!
What caused the motor to be too high? Was it the front pulley and tie rod, or oil pan and back cross member? Without the transmission on I was approximating where it would be sitting, and one of those looked to become an issue. Dropping the motor in I still had the lift strap on so did not reinstall the hood to check for clearance.
Hope you had more time to work on yours than I did this last week. I am still working full shifts, and have two Christmas gifts to complete before I get much work done on my Tracker.
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Hmmm. Been looking at them on co-part for a few months thinking about picking one up to swap into the tracker.
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Hmmm. Been looking at them on co-part for a few months thinking about picking one up to swap into the tracker.
I am still getting parts for my find. I have passed up two complete cars for what I paid for my motor & transmission, and what I may have to pay for parts still needed. Try to get the whole donor vehicle if possible. Having everything at hand will make the switch easier. Muskegtacker's frame off swap may be easier than my squeeze it in method.
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Hmmm. Been looking at them on co-part for a few months thinking about picking one up to swap into the tracker.
I am still getting parts for my find. I have passed up two complete cars for what I paid for my motor & transmission, and what I may have to pay for parts still needed. Try to get the whole donor vehicle if possible. Having everything at hand will make the switch easier. Muskegtacker's frame off swap may be easier than my squeeze it in method.
Yah, I think it would be worth the extra time to pull to body off, if you can. It's so tight everywhere. I finished the motor mounts and have put the motor back in for the last time. Here are some pics:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02883.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02884.jpg)
Painted the frame.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02896.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02897.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02898.jpg)
Tranny bolts right up!
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02899.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02900.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02901.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02902.jpg)
Oil pan it close all around.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02903.jpg)
Alternator can't sit much lower.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02907.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02908.jpg)
I had to relocate the brake line manifold...the exhaust definitely hit it in the stock location.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02909.jpg)
It's still pretty close.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02911.jpg)
Cut up and used original exhaust from XL-7. I had to move the Muffler back 12 inches cause it hit the cross-member.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02913.jpg)
To finish off the exhaust, I welded a chrome tip on. Just happened to have it laying around from a project I had 10 years ago. :D
I've got the body back on now. It fits close everywhere. The biggest problem I ran into was getting the XL-7 radiator into the Tracker. It is quite wide and tall. I was tempted to try using the Tracker rad, but decided it would be better to just make this one work while the body was off. I'm going to have to trim the underside of the hood a little to clear the top of the rad. I couldn't put it any lower cause the bottom of the rad was sitting on the top of the frame cross-member and I couldn't tip it because it would hit the steering box.
So now I've got to finish wiring, plumbing all hoses and lines and get a driveshaft cut. Plus I need to get the fancy new gauge cluster installed in the dash!
Stay tuned!
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Oh I forgot to mention:
I lifted the gas tank while I was at it:
Before:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02854.jpg)
After:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02858.jpg)
I even cut out the rear cross-member and welded in the 4000lb hitch that was on the XL-7:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02857.jpg)
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That is TIGHT. The motor mounts look good too. I was wondering if it would drop any lower, but looks like the alternator will prevent that. You sure have more room to position the motor with the body off. I know my Tractor bucket will go to the center of my body, but would stand on its nose if I attempted to lift the whole body. I will have to be more creative.
Disconnect steering, then body mounts, and brake lines? Anything else I do not see?
You are putting an Auto in it. Are you just removing the clutch pedal, or are you going to replace the brake pedal also?
The photo's are great. I really appreciate the tips.
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Great work man! After looking at all the photos, especially the side by side comparison of both chassis before the swap, it looks like it may be possible to just shorten the frame of the XL7 and drop your Tracker body on it. That way you'd have all the benifits of the V6, disc brakes, etc, etc, without having to swap and fab so much. I'm just guessing though, not having done either.
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That is TIGHT. The motor mounts look good too. I was wondering if it would drop any lower, but looks like the alternator will prevent that. You sure have more room to position the motor with the body off. I know my Tractor bucket will go to the center of my body, but would stand on its nose if I attempted to lift the whole body. I will have to be more creative.
Disconnect steering, then body mounts, and brake lines? Anything else I do not see?
You are putting an Auto in it. Are you just removing the clutch pedal, or are you going to replace the brake pedal also?
The photo's are great. I really appreciate the tips.
Actually the center of gravity, at least for the tin top, is closer to the front of the top of the doors. The body really isn't that heavy. Not like you would think it is. I bet your tractor could do it, maybe hang some counter weights on the back.
Steering, body mounts, brake lines are the major concerns, also wiring, at both the front and the back. If you unclip as much as possible before lifting the body, you'll have enough slack to get under it when you lift it up a bit to finish disconnecting wires. But safety first right! Don't want to be between the body and the frame if the body fell (yikes!).
There is also the fuel tank filler, E-brake cables (disconnect inside the cab), and shifters.
I will be removing the clutch pedal, and hopefully installing the brake pedal out of the XL-7. At a glance looks like it should bolt in the stock location and connect directly to the master cylinder. I may have to cut out the cross tube for the clutch so that the brake pedal has full travel.
Great work man! After looking at all the photos, especially the side by side comparison of both chassis before the swap, it looks like it may be possible to just shorten the frame of the XL7 and drop your Tracker body on it. That way you'd have all the benifits of the V6, disc brakes, etc, etc, without having to swap and fab so much. I'm just guessing though, not having done either.
It would be possible. Instead of doing what I have done, the work would be just as much, or even more...you would have to shorten rear brake and fuel lines, the XL-7 has an external fuel pump in the middle of the frame that would have to be moved. The gas tank in the XL-7 is HUGE! It may not fit under the tracker. Not only would you have to shorten the frame in the middle you'd have to cut the back end off so that it would fit under the tracker. The front would probably have to be shortened some too. The frame is also approximately 3 inches wider, so you might have to relocate all of the body mounts. The rack and pinion on the XL-7 has much smaller tie-rods than the Tracker, hence weaker. You would have to adapt the steering shaft of the XL-7 to the Tracker as they use different sized shafts and connections. The exhaust will have to be shortened...etc, etc, etc.
They are very similar in size and shape, but in the end I think it would be easier to stick with the tracker frame. You know, it might be even easier if you could find a 2 door Vitara or whatever they are, with a V6, and then use the frame from the 2 door, the engine and tranny from a XL-7 and the body from a 1st gen Tracker...hmmmm, that's pretty messy though, and probably more expensive. ??? Doesn't hurt to dream though, right?
I think most of the items on the XL-7 should bolt onto the Tracker. Or be fitted with a little "tweaking" I will probably attempt to swap the disc brakes over and anything else that I figure would be an upgrade.
Thanks for the comments guys! Hope my ramblings inspire!
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Just a quick relapse:
Here's what the turbo setup looked like installed. I don't think I have shown this before...
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/ZM%202009%20Part%20Deux/DSC02504.jpg)
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That is a pretty clean turbo install. Nice work!
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Thanks!
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any updates on this build and how much wider did you go?
how much travel are you getting out of it?
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any updates on this build and how much wider did you go?
how much travel are you getting out of it?
Each wheel is 1/2" wider than stock...not much. The travel is still limited by the strut, so I'm using full compression at the bump-stops and full extension at full droop. That is about 8 inches of travel at the wheels.
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So now I've got to finish wiring, plumbing all hoses and lines and get a driveshaft cut. Plus I need to get the fancy new gauge cluster installed in the dash!
Stay tuned!
[/quote]
Are you installing the whole cluster? Waiting to see what you come up with.
Hoping that you could help me with what pins on the cluster go to the four screws on the speed-o. I have install an electric speed-o in my 93 cluster, and will be running wires to the screws on back of speed-o.
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So now I've got to finish wiring, plumbing all hoses and lines and get a driveshaft cut. Plus I need to get the fancy new gauge cluster installed in the dash!
Stay tuned!
Are you installing the whole cluster? Waiting to see what you come up with.
Hoping that you could help me with what pins on the cluster go to the four screws on the speed-o. I have install an electric speed-o in my 93 cluster, and will be running wires to the screws on back of speed-o.
[/quote]
I am going to try to... I've spent the last 3 weeks of evenings and weekends thinning out the wiring harness...
I've got it pretty much all hooked up, but want to confirm that what I have setup is right. So, yesterday, finally, I got my hands on an FSM for the XL-7. :D
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So, yesterday, finally, I got my hands on an FSM for the XL-7.
[/quote]
2006?
I was looking at two different motors, and purchased full FSM for 2003, and got the 2005 motor. The wiring diagrams are awesome, assuming they are the same for the E61 harness, I think I have the jumpers figured out for what I need to input. Do you have the electric shift for the tc? Mine does, and I may try to convert it back to stick. Are you mounting the vapor canister in the back? Did you change your fuel tank/sending unit? I have been watching for a 96 + fuel tank to get the pressure sending unit for feedback. Having the whole donor vehicle is going to make the wiring SOOOO much easier.
Just worked 11 hr shift, so no work on my conversion today, or tomorrow.
Keep at it, and thanks for sharing.
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So, yesterday, finally, I got my hands on an FSM for the XL-7.
2006?
I was looking at two different motors, and purchased full FSM for 2003, and got the 2005 motor. The wiring diagrams are awesome, assuming they are the same for the E61 harness, I think I have the jumpers figured out for what I need to input. Do you have the electric shift for the tc? Mine does, and I may try to convert it back to stick. Are you mounting the vapor canister in the back? Did you change your fuel tank/sending unit? I have been watching for a 96 + fuel tank to get the pressure sending unit for feedback. Having the whole donor vehicle is going to make the wiring SOOOO much easier.
Just worked 11 hr shift, so no work on my conversion today, or tomorrow.
Keep at it, and thanks for sharing.
[/quote]
2006, yes.
Yes, it has the electric shift for the TC. I have been debating it but will probably keep it, for now. I haven't decided about the vapor can yet. No I haven't changed the sending unit. I ran a quick test this weekend to see how the resistance measures between the specs in the FSM and the tracker sending unit. The specs run between 111 ohms for empty and 11 for full. The tracker tank measures 46 ohms, but I'm not sure how much fuel is in it...at least it is within the range. With so many other parts that match up, like the shifter, the gas pedal, and many wire color codes, I'm hoping some of the stuff like fuel pump and sender will work too.
Thanks for the comments and questions BRD HNTR. It's great sharing ideas and info with others, especially if they're working on the same type of project!
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No real exciting things to post. Unless someone has an electrical fetish... :-[
Just digging at the wiring. After all of this work, I hope it runs! The good news is I'm on the final stretch of it...Stay tuned!
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Looks good, I love the look of the tin tops
Keep up the good work
Nice turbo set up too
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It's alive! On the weekend I got it running. Sounds great too! I still have a bunch of things to finish off before it moves under it's own power though.
That would be the first time, I think, that a project I was working on started immediately on turning the key! >:D
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Congrats!!!
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Way to go. What did you do with the dash? I am looking forward for photos.
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so... you still have a couple months to go... what else you going to change on it?
i think you should lift it and get some new tires... then sell me your old tires cheap... ;) ;) ;) j/k. only if you want...
PS. cant wait to see it run out on the trail. but seriously quit it, your making me look bad... lol
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Thanks BRD HNTR, -CASH ONLY-, and 91zukisas!
I'll try to get some pics, and maybe a video tonight or possibly tomorrow...
I used the XL-7 instrument cluster. It lights up so pretty, but I have a couple of issues with lights to iron out.
Mike5721947 -
I DO have almost 3 months until Zookmeld 2010...I'm still working out the details of my idea, but I might be doing an exotic lift on it too...funds and time dependent of course. As much as I would like new tires, in a larger variety, It is not in the budget/plans this in the near future...but I'll keep you posted on that.
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Changing the whole instrument cluster - that is the benefit of having the donor vehicle. I haven't decided how I am going to deal with a few lights also. Need to install POWER and OD lights for the AT somewhere, and maybe shift position lights.
Looking forward to your EXOTIC LIFT ideas also.
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What length did your rear driveshaft being? And what did you use?
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I didn't get pictures this weekend. I guess I was too focused finishing stuff...
Here's a couple older ones of wiring!
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02929.jpg)
Part of the XL-7 wiring to go into the Tracker!
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02999.jpg)
All wired up in the Tracker!
I "converted" the M/T brake pedal (you know, the skinny one) into the auto brake pedal (nice and wide) from the XL-7. I also modified the brake switch bracket to fit in the XL-7 switch. I'm gonna be running cruise control now, so I integrated as much of the XL-7 wiring as I could.
Because I put in the body lift, I needed to lengthen the steering shaft. So I also did that and fit it in, but IT HITS THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD! >:( The flange on the inner side of the upper u-joint(in the left of the picture below) is the culprit. I'm gonna try to fit a more compact u-joint in its place...
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03014.jpg)
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What length did your rear driveshaft being? And what did you use?
I haven't had it cut yet, but it's looking like it will need to be 5 inches shorter. I will be using the slip yoke and u-joint from the XL-7 welded to the Tracker driveshaft. The front driveshaft was a direct bolt in, so no mods required there!
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That looks nasty. I didn't think I had to go that far. No problem with my steering (yet) very close, if the exhaust shield works. My back drive shaft should be 28 - 29 inches, almost same length as the front shaft (only smaller diameter).
It is hard to take photo's when the gains are small, keep them coming.
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Because I put in the body lift, I needed to lengthen the steering shaft. So I also did that and fit it in, but IT HITS THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD! >:( The flange on the inner side of the upper u-joint(in the left of the picture below) is the culprit. I'm gonna try to fit a more compact u-joint in its place...
([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03014.jpg[/url])
I am using the exhaust manifold out of a 2003 2.7, the CATs are smaller diameter. I purchased another motor with a knock in bottom end, but had parts I needed. Exhaust was smaller and gave me the extra clearance, so I figured I could sacrifice the possible hp loss. I should have mentioned earlier, but like you focused on what I am doing to make things fit.
The two large connections that are coming off the main engine harness that goes to inside car, do they connect to go across to the combination meter? I have been trying to find them on wiring diagram, but cannot find connectors with the pin grouping (2003 FSM).
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S4_XdI5KW3I/AAAAAAAAGV4/aq0_av3eHW8/s800/CIMG0473.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S4_Xd5nKftI/AAAAAAAAGWA/yQszuIrmGao/s800/CIMG0474.JPG)
There are a lot of wires that would go across (like in your photo). I will be wrapping my wiring back across the engine compartment and going back in through the 93 wiring hole on left side.
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Short answer: No.
They go everywhere. To the transmission controller, to the ECM, to the Combination meter, some go to ground or to fuses, others to the BCM, really it's a mess. I actually don't remember exactly where they all go, but probably most of the places I've listed above.
With the 100+ hours I've spent with the schematics and wires I've gotten a little familiar with them. Here's a collage of pics from the FSM for the 2006...They might be a little blurry, but I hope they will give you an idea of where to look.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Misc/e59-e215.jpg)
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Thanks. I had found the C52-E59, but could not find the other plug E215-C85. The 2003 manual stops at C72 and has E214 & E216, but not E215, so without a plug number I was lost. My electronic FSM does not show the plugs pins, so it is impossible to follow wiring diagram. It looks like I am going to peel back the wraps on engine harness a little ways to see where the junctions go. Then I will now which wires need to go to ECM E61 and which will go to combination meter. I will check on electronic FSM for the E215 to see where the wires break off to.
thanks for your time and continue having fun. (At least you have heard yours run.)
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Nice Build. I'm not sure I would have got rid of the BCM in your electronic debauchery but if you think it'll simplify things... I like the rest of your mods though. I have plans to do some custom fabrication of my own. We should talk some time. Maybe swap Ideas.
The Zuke
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Nice Build. I'm not sure I would have got rid of the BCM in your electronic debauchery but if you think it'll simplify things... I like the rest of your mods though. I have plans to do some custom fabrication of my own. We should talk some time. Maybe swap Ideas.
The Zuke
Hehe,
Thanks Bro!
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Here's a couple shots of the gauge cluster:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03037.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03036.jpg)
And a little video of it running:
bennz9 - MOV03033-2.flv (http://s576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/?action=view¤t=MOV03033-2.flv)
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Do you have any pictures of the cluster after you put the dash in place?
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Do you have any pictures of the cluster after you put the dash in place?
I haven't put the dash in yet...
Hopefully this week. I will still need to fabricate a bezel, or shroud for the cluster to finish the dash off. Any suggestions?
I might try steel, or fiberglass, dunno.
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Short video, but awesome sounds. The combination meter is great also.
Are you running the TCM w/o a BCM?
Have you made a jump over diagram for your wiring? Or, are you just taking one component at a time?
Very nice work.
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Short video, but awesome sounds. The combination meter is great also.
Are you running the TCM w/o a BCM?
Have you made a jump over diagram for your wiring? Or, are you just taking one component at a time?
Very nice work.
Um, I'm going to try to... The wiring was (still is) a complex nightmare of over 100 hours. I used the XL-7 wiring mostly, and connected them at first by running all the power wires to the fuses (Tracker stock fuse boxs - in dash and under hood) and relays (XL-7) , and then moving onto the ecm, tcm, 4x controller and combo meter. I have some issues with the BCM being gone, and hope to work them out. If not I might have to put it in. The problem is I don't have much space under the dash anymore. Any place there was a clearing I've already filled it with a computer. ;D
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Well, it turns out I can't live without the BCM. >:(
So I removed the unnecessary clock, hazard switch, temp display, and airbag light, to make the box smaller. Then I located it in front of the heater, under the radio. (Pics later). So now I've got my flashing dash lights under control. I still need to figure out a way to trick the 4x controller into thinking that the motor that engages the front axle is plugged in. I tried using a variable resistor, it worked for a second, but fried the resistor. It only needs 1 ohm of resistance to work, but the amps that burn through it are pretty tremendous compared to what most resistors are designed to take. Any suggestions? Oh yah, too many ohms and it doesn't work either! Any electronics gurus that can help?
I've also installed the headlights, and front body crossmember. That was an ordeal, because I had to cut the body where the inner headlight bolts to so that the rad would fit. Then I had to trim the body crossmember (the one that has the hood latch and connects the two fenders together) and had to chop the safety latch off of the hood latch because it was interfering with the radiator.
Also, hooked up the shifter cable, bled the brakes and took it for a short drive around the yard. It's gonna be a wild ride when it's done!
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Well, it turns out I can't live without the BCM. >:(
So I removed the unnecessary clock, hazard switch, temp display, and airbag light, to make the box smaller. Then I located it in front of the heater, under the radio. (Pics later). So now I've got my flashing dash lights under control. I still need to figure out a way to trick the 4x controller into thinking that the motor that engages the front axle is plugged in. I tried using a variable resistor, it worked for a second, but fried the resistor. It only needs 1 ohm of resistance to work, but the amps that burn through it are pretty tremendous compared to what most resistors are designed to take. Any suggestions? Oh yah, too many ohms and it doesn't work either! Any electronics gurus that can help?
I've also installed the headlights, and front body crossmember. That was an ordeal, because I had to cut the body where the inner headlight bolts to so that the rad would fit. Then I had to trim the body crossmember (the one that has the hood latch and connects the two fenders together) and had to chop the safety latch off of the hood latch because it was interfering with the radiator.
Also, hooked up the shifter cable, bled the brakes and took it for a short drive around the yard. It's gonna be a wild ride when it's done!
What were the symptoms that required the BCM? STILL HOPING THAT I DON'T NEED TO FIND ONE OF THOSE TOO.
Doesn't the pressure feedback turn off the pump? (Not looking at my FSM or notes, just fuzzy brain) I thought that grounding the signal from the pressure (meaning up to pressure) cleared the pump not running signal.
I have been waiting to hear that you had yours running. I have been working on the Drone's race Tracker for the last month, so my Tracker hasn't had any progress.
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Well, it turns out I can't live without the BCM. >:(
So I removed the unnecessary clock, hazard switch, temp display, and airbag light, to make the box smaller. Then I located it in front of the heater, under the radio. (Pics later). So now I've got my flashing dash lights under control. I still need to figure out a way to trick the 4x controller into thinking that the motor that engages the front axle is plugged in. I tried using a variable resistor, it worked for a second, but fried the resistor. It only needs 1 ohm of resistance to work, but the amps that burn through it are pretty tremendous compared to what most resistors are designed to take. Any suggestions? Oh yah, too many ohms and it doesn't work either! Any electronics gurus that can help?
I've also installed the headlights, and front body crossmember. That was an ordeal, because I had to cut the body where the inner headlight bolts to so that the rad would fit. Then I had to trim the body crossmember (the one that has the hood latch and connects the two fenders together) and had to chop the safety latch off of the hood latch because it was interfering with the radiator.
Also, hooked up the shifter cable, bled the brakes and took it for a short drive around the yard. It's gonna be a wild ride when it's done!
What were the symptoms that required the BCM? STILL HOPING THAT I DON'T NEED TO FIND ONE OF THOSE TOO.
Doesn't the pressure feedback turn off the pump? (Not looking at my FSM or notes, just fuzzy brain) I thought that grounding the signal from the pressure (meaning up to pressure) cleared the pump not running signal.
I have been waiting to hear that you had yours running. I have been working on the Drone's race Tracker for the last month, so my Tracker hasn't had any progress.
Yeah, it's been a little busy for me too. I've wanted to get a legit video of it running, but so much going on! Soon...
The reason I needed the BCM was for the instrument cluster. Without it all of the idiot lights where flashing. There are some communication signals from the TCM to ECM, ECM to BCM, BCM to TCM, and instrument cluster to that mess that if any of the modules aren't there the lights flash stating that there is a problem some where. If you're using the stock tracker cluster I don't think it will be a problem...at least not a visual one. I know that the TCM checks the comm line between it and the BCM, but I don't know if there are any negative effects from the BCM not being there at all (from the TCM perspective).
For the fuel pump, I connected the fuel pump wire from the ecm to the relay and relay to the fuel pump. Done! It runs and seems like there is no other issues with it.
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For the 4WD air pump, you could always run it deadheaded :laugh:.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S7tupPrR8bI/AAAAAAAAGi8/LdqEm5Hj3hQ/s640/Control%20Wiring%20Circuit.jpg) (http://lh6.ggpht.com/_86HP5-adsWc/S7t0KwB3vmI/AAAAAAAAGjc/Smrlf41VBhc/Air%20Pump.jpg)
If you take the pump assembly from the XL7 and pressure up it up to 28 psi, the pressure switch should close. Measure the resistance from red wire to pink wire, giving resistance through motor and parallel resistor (I will need to know that resistance also). Put that size resistor in between E51-1-9 AND E51-2-10, with a ground on the E51-2-10 side. That should signal that the pump is up to pressure (therefore running).
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Thanks, that does give me an idea...however I do not have the air pump. It's a direct electric motor. But you may have something there with using a resistor AND ground...
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I've a '95 Tracker with a 2.7 conversion and 4 speed auto w/ lock up; it's my daily driver. Bought it last spring from the owner who did the conversion although I was considering doing one into the later gen two doors. Had 19,000 miles on it when I bought it; has just over 50,000 on it now; I drive 165 miles a day, 4 days a week. Although I didn't do the conversion so there are many things I don't know which are XL7 and which are Tracker if you guys have questions you can ask and I can try to figure it out if I can get the time. I have all the XL7 shop and electrical manuals and a '95 manual. If you live anywhere near central WI and want to stop by and check it out and go for a ride you're more than welcome. Only difficulty I've had is I had to remove the driver's side engine mount and bend it for clearance so I could remove and replace the oil filter. There's a 2 in body lift so access to the filter is easiest through the wheel well with a strap wrench on a 12" extension. Just another little thing to think about. I believe he used the stock 4.30 speedo gear; with the Tracker 5.13 gears and 255/70/15 tires it's right on the money.
The other problem is poor fuel mileage....
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I've a '95 Tracker with a 2.7 conversion and 4 speed auto w/ lock up; it's my daily driver. Bought it last spring from the owner who did the conversion although I was considering doing one into the later gen two doors. Had 19,000 miles on it when I bought it; has just over 50,000 on it now; I drive 165 miles a day, 4 days a week. Although I didn't do the conversion so there are many things I don't know which are XL7 and which are Tracker if you guys have questions you can ask and I can try to figure it out if I can get the time. I have all the XL7 shop and electrical manuals and a '95 manual. If you live anywhere near central WI and want to stop by and check it out and go for a ride you're more than welcome. Only difficulty I've had is I had to remove the driver's side engine mount and bend it for clearance so I could remove and replace the oil filter. There's a 2 in body lift so access to the filter is easiest through the wheel well with a strap wrench on a 12" extension. Just another little thing to think about. I believe he used the stock 4.30 speedo gear; with the Tracker 5.13 gears and 255/70/15 tires it's right on the money.
The other problem is poor fuel mileage....
So are you running the speedo cable up to speedo and wire off to the ecm (vss input)? And what year is your 2.7 shop manual? Are you using 95 dash?
Sounds like Muskegtracker is getting close to the road. I am still a ways out (been working on race car for ZUKIWORLD CHALLENGE).
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I've a '95 Tracker with a 2.7 conversion and 4 speed auto w/ lock up; it's my daily driver. Bought it last spring from the owner who did the conversion although I was considering doing one into the later gen two doors. Had 19,000 miles on it when I bought it; has just over 50,000 on it now; I drive 165 miles a day, 4 days a week. Although I didn't do the conversion so there are many things I don't know which are XL7 and which are Tracker if you guys have questions you can ask and I can try to figure it out if I can get the time. I have all the XL7 shop and electrical manuals and a '95 manual. If you live anywhere near central WI and want to stop by and check it out and go for a ride you're more than welcome. Only difficulty I've had is I had to remove the driver's side engine mount and bend it for clearance so I could remove and replace the oil filter. There's a 2 in body lift so access to the filter is easiest through the wheel well with a strap wrench on a 12" extension. Just another little thing to think about. I believe he used the stock 4.30 speedo gear; with the Tracker 5.13 gears and 255/70/15 tires it's right on the money.
The other problem is poor fuel mileage....
Thanks for the info but I'm pretty much done. How do you like it? I mean power wise? and what kind of Fuel economy are you getting?
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Well, it's been a while since I've posted anything really new...so here you go!
XL Tracker V6 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvfeB-jzF80#)
Whadaya think? >:D
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I have replayed the video a couple times. Looks and SOUNDS great.
Is the motor swap done, or are there still loose ends?
How is the shifting? Did you have to use a BCM?
What did you end up doing to solve the Air Pump problem?
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I have replayed the video a couple times. Looks and SOUNDS great.
Is the motor swap done, or are there still loose ends?
How is the shifting? Did you have to use a BCM?
What did you end up doing to solve the Air Pump problem?
Thanks!
I guess I still have a couple of items to take care of. Wiring lights, finishing the dash and installing it. Hoping for this weekend to have it together well enough to run on the highway. It shifts great, has lots of grunt in the low end (and top end ;D). I did use the BCM. It cured many problems I had with lights flashing in the combo meter. Since mine doesn't have an air pump but a small electric motor (it's called motorized control in FSM) I have it plugged in right now. Funny thing it only works if you stop the motor from spinning (the computer then expects the front end to be engaged). So I am driving right now with vise grips :o. But I have a heavy duty resistor on order, that I hope with mimic the draw on the system enough to trick the computer into engaging 4x4. Make sense?
As for speed, I got it up to 80 MPH (130 KPH) down the gravel road by my house. It will easily break the tires loose at any speed on gravel. It is quite peppy and more often than not I am in need of traction, not power - as expected.
I kept the 5:12 gears even though the XL-7 has 4:25. With my slightly taller tires (235/75R15) I think it all evens out - maybe a little slower actual speed per 1000 RPM. At 80 MPH it's rev's are around 3000 RPM. We'll see how it does on the highway with fuel mileage before I think of going with 4:60? out of an auto Trakick. I did check it between a known distance (2 km) and found it was pretty dang close! All that said, I love how low geared it is in low + 4low >:D .
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Hey muskegtracker, very nice work! Sounds very mean.
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With the logic I have seen in the wiring diagrams, it does make sense. After the race, I will start on my Tracker again, and probably come to you for solutions.
Glad to see yours up and running.
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so... what would you charge to do another... hehehe... >:D
man im going to feel inadequate at the zuki meet. mines just as it was last year. its going to be tight if i can get it lifted by the meet, money has just been tight...
that thing sounds mean... you guys bringing both again this year?
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so... what would you charge to do another... hehehe... >:D
man im going to feel inadequate at the zuki meet. mines just as it was last year. its going to be tight if i can get it lifted by the meet, money has just been tight...
that thing sounds mean... you guys bringing both again this year?
If you're serious PM me... ;) I'm up for doing any work on any rig...
If you're looking for a coil and strut spacer lift...I can probably hook you up, if you're interested.
I don't think I can convince my bro to bring his out this year (even though it is coming along nicely!). He might just come out with me. I guess we'll see!
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So my idea worked! I used a 1 ohm 50 watt resistor to trick the computer into thinking the front axle engaged. hehehe... ;D
Here's the motor I replaced
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03139.jpg)
and here's the resistor
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03138.jpg)
It gets pretty warm after a couple of shifts in and out of 4WD. It's made to handle some heat with it's aluminum body and cooling fins. We'll see how long it lasts.
The math says that I need at least 150 watts, but that is for continuous power and this resistor only gets a few seconds. When I explained to the guy at the supply shop that I needed a resistor to run 12VDC with 12amps he said," what are you doing? Trying to make a heater?" The resistor would probably burn your hands if you cycled it too many times. But rarely, if ever, will I be shifting in and out of 4WD that often.
Here's another project I've completed. Since I will be using push-button 4WD, I won't need the TC shifter hole so I used my laser to cut out a rubber gasket and polycarbonate cover for the hole.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03137.jpg)
A little dusty...(gravel roads...nuf said)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03132.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03128.jpg)
And here's a pic of the engine bay. (p.s. - I've even added cruise control!)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03133.jpg)
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Nice work with the resistor! Crafty!
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So my idea worked! I used a 1 ohm 50 watt resistor to trick the computer into thinking the front axle engaged. hehehe... ;D
and here's the resistor
([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03138.jpg[/url])
It gets pretty warm after a couple of shifts in and out of 4WD. It's made to handle some heat with it's aluminum body and cooling fins. We'll see how long it lasts.
The math says that I need at least 150 watts, but that is for continuous power and this resistor only gets a few seconds. When I explained to the guy at the supply shop that I needed a resistor to run 12VDC with 12amps he said," what are you doing? Trying to make a heater?" The resistor would probably burn your hands if you cycled it too many times. But rarely, if ever, will I be shifting in and out of 4WD that often.
So then the comuter only runs this when you make the shift into and out of 4X? Going to have to check my wiring diagram!! The 2003 uses an air pump, bet the 05 (my new motor) has same setup as yours.
How is it running now?
Get to start back on mine next week.
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So my idea worked! I used a 1 ohm 50 watt resistor to trick the computer into thinking the front axle engaged. hehehe... ;D
and here's the resistor
([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03138.jpg[/url])
It gets pretty warm after a couple of shifts in and out of 4WD. It's made to handle some heat with it's aluminum body and cooling fins. We'll see how long it lasts.
The math says that I need at least 150 watts, but that is for continuous power and this resistor only gets a few seconds. When I explained to the guy at the supply shop that I needed a resistor to run 12VDC with 12amps he said," what are you doing? Trying to make a heater?" The resistor would probably burn your hands if you cycled it too many times. But rarely, if ever, will I be shifting in and out of 4WD that often.
So then the comuter only runs this when you make the shift into and out of 4X? Going to have to check my wiring diagram!! The 2003 uses an air pump, bet the 05 (my new motor) has same setup as yours.
How is it running now?
Get to start back on mine next week.
The computer does a check at every startup and runs it at every T-case gear change. It's running great! I think I will add a couple of wires (yah, more...I know...) so that my dash lights dim properly, then its fully ready for re-assembly and welding a couple of rust holes in the floor. The tracker drives like it's 10 years newer. I can't get enough. I smile every time it starts up.
I had a bit of a race with my Dad (he was on his quad - Polaris 550). He didn't have a chance. >:D
My only concern now is the gearing. The XL-7 comes with 4.25 gears and 235/60R16 and the Tracker is running 5:13 with 235/75R15. I'm tempted to go with the higher gears from an auto (I can get some for free), but would rather go with bigger tires($$$). It seems to be out by a little over 10% (Tested the odometer with another vehicle between two points).
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Nice work with the resistor! Crafty!
Thanks ;)
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curious,..what size tube did you use for your lower link exstension?...im about to move/extend mine,...but was wondering what size tube to buy for the links themselfs...
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curious,..what size tube did you use for your lower link exstension?...im about to move/extend mine,...but was wondering what size tube to buy for the links themselfs...
I believe I used 1.625" x 0.85" wall 4130(Chromoly) DOM. I used it because I had some handy. It would probably be better to get some tube (DOM or not) with at least 0.120" wall thickness and an ID close to the OD of the existing links.
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not sure if i missed something, but you widened the front .5 inches on each side,so what did u do to the back to make it wider so things don't look goofy??????
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not sure if i missed something, but you widened the front .5 inches on each side,so what did u do to the back to make it wider so things don't look goofy??????
The stock track width of the tracker is actually narrower in the front than the rear. Even if it wasn't .5" would be pretty much impossible to notice when looking at the vehicle. With a tire turned even slightly it would stick out more than that...
So to answer your question, I did nothing to make the back wider. Even if the front tires stuck out 2 or 3 inches wider than the rear I wouldn't change the rear. It would look sweet, aggressive. Of course IMO ;) .
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not sure if i missed something, but you widened the front .5 inches on each side,so what did u do to the back to make it wider so things don't look goofy??????
The stock track width of the tracker is actually narrower in the front than the rear. Even if it wasn't .5" would be pretty much impossible to notice when looking at the vehicle. With a tire turned even slightly it would stick out more than that...
So to answer your question, I did nothing to make the back wider. Even if the front tires stuck out 2 or 3 inches wider than the rear I wouldn't change the rear. It would look sweet, aggressive. Of course IMO ;) .
thanks for the help.i am very interested in doing this to my kick. got the control arms off the parts track/kick but the mounting bolts are rusted solid in the control arm bushings, guess i'll have to get new ones.i've been following this build very closely.thanks for all the help
zuk freak
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Well,
I've put over 1000 kms on it now and I LOVE IT! I still have some finishing touches but it has become my DD and that makes it all the trickier to finish...well it's never really finished. I was checking out what else I could use off of the XL-7 so the next upgrade will be the XL-7 disc brakes (I think they'll fit), and the front coils.
Pics and stuff to come...
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A quick pic of the progress of my winch bumper:
([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02518.jpg[/url])
is there anymore pics of your winch bumper showing where you mounted it,what u used,etc???
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???
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A quick pic of the progress of my winch bumper:
([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02518.jpg[/url])
is there anymore pics of your winch bumper showing where you mounted it,what u used,etc???
The winch is mounted to a winch plate from Low Range and the rest is .125" plate or similar...all welded to the frame using a proprietary box and gusset technique. ;) I don't have any other pics that really show any different than below (just painted and winch and fairlead mounted.)
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Here's what it looks like with the XL-7 coils. They have the same number of windings, same diameter of wire, but a larger pitch.
No, this is not my "exotic" lift that I alluded to previously. Still working that one out.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03183.jpg)
Before:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03180.jpg)
After:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03188.jpg)
and a little mud:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03214.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03230.jpg)
I will be installing taller rear coils in the near future...
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Thats an incredible transformation!!
What kind of tires are those?
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Thats an incredible transformation!!
What kind of tires are those?
Thanks! The tires are - Kumho Road Venture M/T KL71
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you gunna be going with bigger tires??? or u stickin with the 235s????
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you gunna be going with bigger tires??? or u stickin with the 235s????
I would love to go with a bigger tire...right now I can't really justify it because the tires I have still have lots of tread. But tires are in the plan. 31's at least, possibly bigger.
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I was recently asked what mods were required for the V6 swap. So I thought I would copy it here, just for interest sake. Below is a list of SOME of the work I did.
-engine mounts
-body lift (so engine and radiator fit under the hood. Mine required 3 inches to fit the rad
where I wanted it.)
-shortened rear driveshaft and put XL-7 slip yoke on (professionally done)
-mounts for different rad
-mounts for power steering res.
-mounts for intake and other misc
-wiring...lots of it(well over 100 hours) (It has 5 computers)
-steering shaft (I had to change where the upper u-joint was located in order to clear the
exhaust manifold.
-move brake manifold (the one on the side of the frame)
-brake pedal switch and mounting plate
I did the engine and tranny/tc swap. The whole thing all in one go. Saved a lot of money and time not having to figure out how to adapt a different tranny/tc. I also used the XL-7 instrument cluster, had to cut out the dash to fit it in(still haven't made a shroud for it yet).
XL-7 was 4:25 gearing. Tracker diffs are 5:13. It's quite little low geared, really nice for trail riding, etc, but not quite so nice on fuel mileage on the highway. It's about 10% lower than stock. I do plan on going with bigger tires in the future; that will solve my 10% lower issue. I didn't use front or rear diff's. I didn't swap steel front housing because it was different gearing, had a weird freewheel mechanism, really just different and didn't want to mess with it at the time. I didn't use the rear because there is currently no aftermarket support. No Lockers, spools, axles, etc, and obviously if I wasn't using the front diff, the gearing in the rear was again 4:25 not 5:13. Mostly I was just not interested in going that route so I didn't look into it much.
Stuff that was a direct bolt in, or compatible:
-gas pedal (for cruise control) 8)
-steering linkages, u-joint, and vibration isolator
-front driveshaft
-tranny crossmember mount
-power steering lines
-trans shifter (Tracker was a manual transmission, now 5 speed auto)
-throttle cable
-exhaust runs down the driver side
-heater hoses are on the passenger side in pretty much the right location. (with a 3 inch body lift)
Computers I used:
-ECM/PCM
-TCM (transmission control module)
-BCM (Body control module - so gauge cluster would work properly)
-4XController (I have push button 4WD)
-Combination meter (gauge cluster - yes it has a computer)
I did think that about covers it. So many things, I'm sure I forgot something.
(Added)
A list of XL-7 parts that I used:
-Engine
-Transmission/Transfer case
-Transmission mount
-Power steering pump
-Radiator
-Combination Meter(instrument cluster)
-TCM (transmission control module)
-BCM (Body control module)
-ECM (Engine control module)
-Front Driveshaft
-Rear Driveshaft slip yoke and u-joint
-Power steering resi.
-steering shaft coupler, u-joint, and vibration damper
-gas pedal
-Transmission shifter and cable
-Wiring harness (lots of wires, but not all of the harness. I cut every wire to fit.)
-Entire engine/tranny side of wiring harness
-Exhaust pipe (shortened and customized to fit)
-Small muffler (those things have 2)
-4WD push button
-"Power" push button
-Cruise control module
-Cruise control controls
-Brake pedal (just the pedal)
-Brake pedal switch
-Transmission cooler lines.(used different external cooler)
-Radiator hoses
I think that's about it...
P.S.
I am selling some of the parts I didn't use. I've already sold enough to almost pay for the purchase of the entire parts vehicle! If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...
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do you still have your 1.6 turbo setup????
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Where did you put your Evap. Canister? Do you have the one with vacuum pump?
I just checked out your air cleaner. I wasn't sure what to do with the BIG box. With your air cleaner I can still have the washer tank.
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I am selling some of the parts I didn't use. I've already sold enough to almost pay for the purchase of the entire parts vehicle! If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...
Definitely! We purchased an 89 Chevy Blazer K5 (fullsize) for like 1000 bucks a few years ago that was just messed up on the driver's side and had 75k miles on it. Swapped the entire 5.7L TBI engine, 700R4 trans, and NP208 transfer case into our 79 K5 to replace the carb'ed 350, the TH400, and 205 t-case, which had over 90k miles on it. Ended up parting out the rest of the 89 for close to $1000.
Unfortunately, we just sold that beautiful '79 after 27 years of family ownership :( lots of memories but it just sat in front of our house and got dirty (and expensive to maintain!!!)
My Tracker is more practical for hunting and trails, too ;)
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I am selling some of the parts I didn't use. I've already sold enough to almost pay for the purchase of the entire parts vehicle! If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...
If that isn't a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...
I bought my motor/trans/xc for $800, have spent at least $500 more on parts (wife thinks more like $1000) that were hard and rare to come by, still having to improvise on wiring connectors to Transmission control Module. Can't cross parts on many years on newer models. I could go on about building using a newer 2004 & up with parts, and not having parts to sell (just trying to find the ones to buy). I just passed up a complete 2002 GV w/2.7 for $1250 (would have had to change everything out because computers/wiring & connectors are not same).
So yes That is a good argument to work with a complete donor vehicle...
And thanks for the helpful information.
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do you still have your 1.6 turbo setup????
Yes.
Where did you put your Evap. Canister? Do you have the one with vacuum pump?
I just checked out your air cleaner. I wasn't sure what to do with the BIG box. With your air cleaner I can still have the washer tank.
I didn't use the evap can. I think that might explain why it rev's a little high on cold startup. To be honest, I didn't care about that stuff - we don't have emissions test here, and there seems to be no other ill effects from not having it. It seems to me that the original design in the XL-7 had some black box (which I figure was the evap can - never looked it up in the FSM - just guessed) between the frame-rails, behind the T-case, that had some large tubes running from the tank to it. I assumed that was the evap canister, and I didn't have room, neither did I care to install MORE stuff than I absolutely had to.
An update on driving it...awesome! That about sums it up. I took it on a 4 hour highway drive (the cruise made it very nice too) to a Suzuki meet. We all went wheeling, and I had no problems keeping up with the bigger tire'd guys. I guess power makes up for tire size? We went through deep water holes (over the tail lights), through crazy mud, and hill climbs in 8" of new snow. It was a riot. I'll get some pictures up in the next while. The guys loved the sound of it (me too ;D). One guy even called it the Maserati due to it's distinctive exhaust tone when I was on the gas.
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do you still have your 1.6 turbo setup????
Yes.
Where did you put your Evap. Canister? Do you have the one with vacuum pump?
I just checked out your air cleaner. I wasn't sure what to do with the BIG box. With your air cleaner I can still have the washer tank.
I didn't use the evap can. I think that might explain why it rev's a little high on cold startup. To be honest, I didn't care about that stuff - we don't have emissions test here, and there seems to be no other ill effects from not having it. It seems to me that the original design in the XL-7 had some black box (which I figure was the evap can - never looked it up in the FSM - just guessed) between the frame-rails, behind the T-case, that had some large tubes running from the tank to it. I assumed that was the evap canister, and I didn't have room, neither did I care to install MORE stuff than I absolutely had to.
An update on driving it...awesome! That about sums it up. I took it on a 4 hour highway drive (the cruise made it very nice too) to a Suzuki meet. We all went wheeling, and I had no problems keeping up with the bigger tire'd guys. I guess power makes up for tire size? We went through deep water holes (over the tail lights), through crazy mud, and hill climbs in 8" of new snow. It was a riot. I'll get some pictures up in the next while. The guys loved the sound of it (me too ;D). One guy even called it the Maserati due to it's distinctive exhaust tone when I was on the gas.
Good news on the evap canister. I see that they had one with a vacuum pump, and one w/o, so I was going to try making it run on older style. If I do not need one that is better yet.
On your trans shifter, did you slide it back? On the one I have the cable is about a foot long, causing it to coil up almost against the bottom of exhaust manifold.
Where did you put the IAT probe? Inside the appendage on MAF?
I have been working on wiring One Page at aTime.
Hearing how fine yours is helps (so does getting one page of wiring correct).
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Good news on the evap canister. I see that they had one with a vacuum pump, and one w/o, so I was going to try making it run on older style. If I do not need one that is better yet.
On your trans shifter, did you slide it back? On the one I have the cable is about a foot long, causing it to coil up almost against the bottom of exhaust manifold.
Where did you put the IAT probe? Inside the appendage on MAF?
I have been working on wiring One Page at aTime.
Hearing how fine yours is helps (so does getting one page of wiring correct).
I thought the cable was too long too. So I pulled a shifter cable from an 89 tracker and was trying to figure out how to adapt it when my brother said, "you should compare the length with the XL-7 cable." It turns out the XL-7 cable is only like 0.5" longer. So I bolted in the XL-7 shifter with cable attached and then got underneath and pushed the cable so it looped up the back of the engine and down to the mounting bracket. Fit is good.
I "installed" the IAT probe with zip-ties close to the air filter. A great temporary solution, in my opinion.
Just a thought:
When I wired it, I focused on one component at a time. So I started with the ECM, connected all the wires that I could, then onto the TCM, BCM, etc, etc. That way once the ECM was wired to the TCM, BCM, etc, and I moved on to the TCM, I could double check that the wire running from the TCM was connected properly to the ECM...does that make sense? Just my method. What ever works best for you. Most people have a different logical thought process. ??? I remember that I was jumping around a lot from one page to another. Whatever works right? I do feel for you though. Not having all the wiring and connectors would make it extra difficult.
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Nice build!
Hay muskegtracker I seen your sidekick with the camo paint on the hood, it was in the princess auto parking lot in Edmonton on the 26 of may, it was right by the front doors. I like the camo 8), did you paint it on there?
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Nice build!
Hay muskegtracker I seen your sidekick with the camo paint on the hood, it was in the princess auto parking lot in Edmonton on the 26 of may, it was right by the front doors. I like the camo 8), did you paint it on there?
Thanks! Yes I did paint it... It's a small world, but no real surprise that you caught me at Princess. I'm there more often than I'd like to admit. :-[
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I am still doing wiring, but it does sound sweet (without exhaust).
Now that it does run, I have been working on the Error Codes. I was getting three from the lack of Vacuum Canister. My solution was resisters in the electrical connector going to the vacuum canister. If you still have these codes in on yours, the pins look like this on the connector going to the canister.
X4321
X76X5
I used 48 ohm resisters between 4 & 3, and 1 & 5. A 48K ohm resister between 7 & 6. Then I taped a cap off a relay over the Connector and will route it out of the way. This removed the Barimetric code (set it at sea level) and one for the vacuum valve, and one for the vent motor.
What did you end up doing for the dash?
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I am still doing wiring, but it does sound sweet (without exhaust).
Now that it does run, I have been working on the Error Codes. I was getting three from the lack of Vacuum Canister. My solution was resisters in the electrical connector going to the vacuum canister. If you still have these codes in on yours, the pins look like this on the connector going to the canister.
X4321
X76X5
I used 48 ohm resisters between 4 & 3, and 1 & 5. A 48K ohm resister between 7 & 6. Then I taped a cap off a relay over the Connector and will route it out of the way. This removed the Barimetric code (set it at sea level) and one for the vacuum valve, and one for the vent motor.
What did you end up doing for the dash?
Excellent!
It has been running great so I haven't worried too much about clearing the codes, but now that I know I'll do it. Thanks a lot!
I have been lazy, and since it is running I've been putting miles on it instead of finishing the last details, such as the "codes" and the gauge cluster. I've got the gauges mounted in the dash, but have yet to make a shroud/bezel/surround for it. I worked on one out of light gauge aluminum, but didn't like how it turned out. I have thought about fiberglass and also vacuum forming. I do have some plastic lying around and a vacuum forming box, so it is a possible solution too.
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It will take a little experimenting with the barometric one as you are not a sea level. It seems that it also compares manifold pressure with barometric pressure, as mine threw a code that basically says that the pressures are different. As I haven't had mine on the road, I do not know what will follow for differences.
I got a OBD2 to PC USB out of China for $25 to check and clear the codes. Kris got it functioning for me, and it seems to work pretty good. You can get most of engine vitals, trends, etc.
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This is an interesting project. Have used an hour now to read all pages. Sounds like an advanced engine swap to me. ::) Just one question... cruise control in the terrain ??? ;)
Good job :)
Kind regards from
Hannes in sweden
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Thanks for the tips BRD HNTR. Always appreciated.
This is an interesting project. Have used an hour now to read all pages. Sounds like an advanced engine swap to me. ::) Just one question... cruise control in the terrain ??? ;)
Good job :)
Kind regards from
Hannes in sweden
Thanks Hannes. You have a great project too. The cruise control is wonderful on the way TO the trails. With all of the new found power its easy to speed. >:D
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This thread has been bumped back to the 4th page...no good! I've put over 10,000 miles on the V6 "without a hitch" and still loving it. Some big spring plans. I've got a box of goodies coming in the mail to add to the Tracker. I'll just say it's from Low Range......Check back soon!
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I "borrowed" the "A" arm mods that you did, and I will be bolting the re-done arms in tomorrow. REALLY good thinking out of the box on that! Thanks for sharing that. I have read the entire thread up to now, and I feel better about the upcoming V6 swap that I am gathering parts for since my diesel swap didn't go so well.
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This thread has been bumped back to the 4th page...no good!
Huh?
Welcome back! I've been looking for updates to this and glad to see it's worked so well for you.
Hmmm low range's SAS maybe?
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I "borrowed" the "A" arm mods that you did, and I will be bolting the re-done arms in tomorrow. REALLY good thinking out of the box on that! Thanks for sharing that. I have read the entire thread up to now, and I feel better about the upcoming V6 swap that I am gathering parts for since my diesel swap didn't go so well.
Thanks Rex. The "Rhino" looks like fun!
This thread has been bumped back to the 4th page...no good!
Huh?
Welcome back! I've been looking for updates to this and glad to see it's worked so well for you.
Hmmm low range's SAS maybe?
Oh I just meant not on the first page of DIY/Builds...Meaning I haven't posted any updates in quite a while. In fact when I went to post it flashed in bright red letters that the thread had not had a post in over 120 days. Yikes!
It's not that high zoot. I'm pretty sure I'll continue to upgrade the IFS before I go SAS. I just got to. Yah know?
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Keep us posted. I'm really curious now. I don't see what else you can do, looks like you've got it all
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Hmm......
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03825.jpg)
More to come.
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A 4 link.
I have been watching for you, and I hoped you would make it to Zukfari. Even though it hasn't been that long, nice to hear from you.
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A 4 link.
I have been watching for you, and I hoped you would make it to Zukfari. Even though it hasn't been that long, nice to hear from you.
Close...about part of it.
I would love to have made it down for Zukfari but there was no way this year. I'll be putting it in the plans for next year. I've wanted to go for some time.
Thanks Steve. It has been a little while. I think you'll be intrigued by the craziness that is about to go down on this old tracker. The only other thing I'll say about it right now is remote reservoir coilover shocks - four of them.
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I hope you are going where I need to follow. My 30 x 9.50 x 15's are OK for road work, but I seemed to be short on clearance in MOAB, and speedo is still 10% fast. I haven't decided how I am raising & extending front suspension yet, so looking forward to your examples.
Have you finished you dash system?
I ended up putting the GVR up next to master cylinder to clear the alarm. Now I have to find a place for the Cruise control I just acquired.
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I hope you are going where I need to follow. My 30 x 9.50 x 15's are OK for road work, but I seemed to be short on clearance in MOAB, and speedo is still 10% fast. I haven't decided how I am raising & extending front suspension yet, so looking forward to your examples.
Have you finished you dash system?
I ended up putting the GVR up next to master cylinder to clear the alarm. Now I have to find a place for the Cruise control I just acquired.
I've got some 235/85R16 tires on order. Thought I might give the skinnies a try. Maybe it'll be the beginning of a trend...
I want to say what I'm doing, but think it might be more effective to let it evolve.
I've picked up some fiberglass to make a hood for the gauges, but haven't got to it yet. Probably next week. I'm in "Do-Work" mode. Trying to get a pile of stuff done.
The engine bay sure fills up fast with all the goodies, but you'll like having the cruise control for road trips. I love it.
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Time to show some work updates!
I put all new seals (kit from Lowrange) into the steering box. It was leaking like crazy. It was slowly leaking before I did the engine swap and I'm sure the XL-7 pump pressure was enough to push it way over the edge. So here are some pics of the internals:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03846.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03851.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03854.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03856.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03861.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03863.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03864.jpg)
I was pretty nervous when I started into it, but the assembly was really not as bad as I imagined.
I Also got some fabrication done today.
New rear links with Creeper Joints:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03868.jpg)
Sorry no pic of the link with the Creeper Joint in it. I'll post some when I get them painted. I built both of them.
I also modified the rear control arm to accept a creeper joint:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03867.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03869.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03872.jpg)
You may be thinking, "Man that looks longer than the stock setup." That's because it is :D .
I've got some more goodies coming in the mail, hopefully they'll be here before next weekend.
More to come...
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I did a similar modification to the upper linkage, and it sure improved the movement and articulation. Then in one of those "Do Work" modes it transformed into a 4-link system. Much better movement and I feel better about its capabilities.
Interesting rebuild on the PS .
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I appreciate you takin the time to post pics. I bumped your "technical Prestige" for the control arm cut and ball joint move, thats a multi-use mod. Kool
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I appreciate you takin the time to post pics. I bumped your "technical Prestige" for the control arm cut and ball joint move, thats a multi-use mod. Kool
Hey Foot ... I'd TP'd you for using the "technical prestige" button!
:)
-Eric
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I appreciate you takin the time to post pics. I bumped your "technical Prestige" for the control arm cut and ball joint move, thats a multi-use mod. Kool
Thanks Foot!
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My new tires have arrived. And I've got them mounted. Beware! They are skinny (on purpose even - a trend setter? maybe?).
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03881.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03884.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03887.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03883.jpg)
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I like them skinny tires! :)
35x10.5 boggers will find there way on the audikick one of these days. >:D
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I see on one of your photo's a rear shock is off. Just waiting to see what is going to happen with those remote reservoir coilover shocks - four of them.
I would think with the power you installed those skinny tires will be spinny tires. :laugh:
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([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03884.jpg[/url])
so... you might want to put some more lug nuts on that wheel there, dont want another one coming off while going down the road again.
looking good, cant wait to see it completed, again.
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I appreciate you takin the time to post pics. I bumped your "technical Prestige" for the control arm cut and ball joint move, thats a multi-use mod. Kool
Hey Foot ... I'd TP'd you for using the "technical prestige" button!
:)
-Eric
Dude, not to highjack your thread but this calls for a "HOOT HOOT" my first after being a mechanic for 20 plus yrs. Thanks a bunch. Carry on...
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Alright. Time for some update photos. I got the rear shock mounts sorted (not completed). I will box them in for added strength. It took a lot longer than I expected. I spent a fair amount of time staring at it trying to design the best functional and looking upper shock mount. I cut off the axle shock mounts and welded on some extended ones to accommodate the coils.
You may be wondering, why didn't you lift it up higher? or Why did you keep the shocks so low? Well, I have been planning, for a few years, to build an improved suspension. Quality travel and drive-ability. I think 10" all around will be good. It will ride right in the middle 5" bump - 5" droop. I've kept the existing bumpstops on the rear. Therefore the ride height will be 5 inches from the bumps. Anyway, enough talking. How about those pictures?
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03899.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03902.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03911.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03909.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03908.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03916.jpg)
And here is a shot of the rear upper control arm:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03913.jpg)
I'm widening the track width in the front by a total of 3 inches (1.5" per side). Using different CV's and two of the same..."Coincidentally" I had one of these kicking around and decided it would be a perfect addition the the suspension system. I spun a flange on a lathe, and welded it the the stub end of a passenger side inner CV to mate a drivers side CV.
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03919.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03917.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03921.jpg)
Due to a serious restriction of space, I had to tap the holes in the flange instead of running bolts through. I'm sure I'll still have some fandangling to do to get it to work, but its a start. Next week: The front suspension.
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Good work
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Good work. How close does the tires come with that amount of flexing?
Can't wait to see what you do with the front!! We are getting the race car ready, so work on my Tracker is on hold again. Good thing, I can see what you are up to before I do modifications that won't be easy to undo.
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are you going coil-over in the rear??? how tall are the new tires? i am stealing the front arm mod for my tin top.
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I just noticed the rear shock mount, looks like it might bend under hard use
without some more boxing of the mount, how thick is that material?
I like the design, just thinking before something bad happens
Wild
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Good work. How close does the tires come with that amount of flexing?
Can't wait to see what you do with the front!! We are getting the race car ready, so work on my Tracker is on hold again. Good thing, I can see what you are up to before I do modifications that won't be easy to undo.
The tires come close. Maybe less than an inch.
are you going coil-over in the rear??? how tall are the new tires? i am stealing the front arm mod for my tin top.
Yes the rear will be coilovers. So will the front...
Good luck on the control arm mod. Its a good one.
I just noticed the rear shock mount, looks like it might bend under hard use
without some more boxing of the mount, how thick is that material?
I like the design, just thinking before something bad happens
Wild
Thanks Wild the shock mounts will be boxed in and plenty strong when I'm done with them.
I've been working like crazy trying to get this thing together. Its pretty tricky with the limited space and everything Im trying to stuff into it. I will get some pictures up soon. Nearly done the drivers side...about 9 inches of travel. Aint too shabby.
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Once again, great way to be innovative and create your own stuff. Wish I could make my own stuff like that. Built is better than bought but it's all I could do at the time. Look forward to seeing it finished...again
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Nice work. Your upper Y link is exactly like mine. I also like the skinny tires, I'm running 33/10.50's right now and will go to Q78's which are 35/10.50's when all my mods are done.
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Loving this build! 8) Looking forward to the result of the new suspension :)
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Got some work done. Lot's left to do, but one side is 90%! Its late so not much to say, just some pics...
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03928.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03930.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03927.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03925.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03926.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03933.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03935.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03936.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03943.jpg)
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I see that you have been D'n some W. Looks really good. Yours looks closer to being a roller than mine, that is for sure. However, we've got lots to do before the end of the month. Nothin' like a deadline to encourage productivity.
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I would like to see the part you made to bolt up to the knuckle and attach to
the upper arm.
Also I noticed the upper shock bolt turned 90* from the lower one, this
would seem to cause a binding and flexing through the suspension travel
cycle, have you tried to cycle the suspension without the spring and wheel
bolted on to check for problems?
I like the buildup, I want to do a similar setup, and would like to see how
you worked around the issues you found
Wild
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I would to see the part you made to bolt up to the knuckle and attach to
the upper arm.
Also I noticed the upper shock bolt turned 90* from the lower one, this
would seem to cause a binding and flexing through the suspension travel
cycle, have you tried to cycle the suspension without the spring and wheel
bolted on to check for problems?
I like the buildup, I want to do a similar setup, and would like to see how
you worked around the issues you found
Wild
Good eye Wild.
There is plenty of motion left in the misalignment spacers. The stock components - ball joint, and CV bind before anything else. And that is at around 9 inches of travel.
I turned the upper mount 90 degrees so the reservoir line was out of the way.
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Took me a little while to put it all together in my mind. Interesting. Getting the position of everything, the length of the upper arms, the connection between upper and lower arms is impressive.
When I saw all the holes in your stub axle adapter, I thought you were going to 930 cv's to cover the cv binding issues.
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I just kind of got my brain wrapped around the upper A-arm part of this build.
This part that you made, do you realize the force it takes? All of the braking force
from the caliper is going to transfer into a rotating torque and it has to go through
this upper 2 piece A-arm you built. Be very careful when you start test driving on
the road and watch the part for any problems.
I have had a strut nut come off and the strut popped out of the upper mount and
as I tapped the brake to stop, the whole wheel, knuckle, strut, caliper, everything
assembly twisted off and went flying down the freeway, leaving me with no brakes
sliding to a stop in a shower of sparks. Thank God nobody got hurt, but I want you
to really evaluate the strength of your upper A-arm and the bolt that goes through
the joint and consider what could happen if it fails under a braking load.
Maybe consider making it one piece with the bolt going through some gusseted tabs
from the bottom or something like that, because as a 2 piece part, that bolt is going
to take all the force to hold everything together, the forces of the wheel hitting rocks
also is transferred to this upper A-arm, so every bump and rock you hit jars the part
with force pushing it to the rear.
I just want you to have fun and stay safe
Wild
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC03935.jpg)
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I just kind of got my brain wrapped around the upper A-arm part of this build.
This part that you made, do you realize the force it takes? All of the braking force
from the caliper is going to transfer into a rotating torque and it has to go through
this upper 2 piece A-arm you built. Be very careful when you start test driving on
the road and watch the part for any problems.
I have had a strut nut come off and the strut popped out of the upper mount and
as I tapped the brake to stop, the whole wheel, knuckle, strut, caliper, everything
assembly twisted off and went flying down the freeway, leaving me with no brakes
sliding to a stop in a shower of sparks. Thank God nobody got hurt, but I want you
to really evaluate the strength of your upper A-arm and the bolt that goes through
the joint and consider what could happen if it fails under a braking load.
Maybe consider making it one piece with the bolt going through some gusseted tabs
from the bottom or something like that, because as a 2 piece part, that bolt is going
to take all the force to hold everything together, the forces of the wheel hitting rocks
also is transferred to this upper A-arm, so every bump and rock you hit jars the part
with force pushing it to the rear.
I just want you to have fun and stay safe
Wild
Wild, I believe that the bolt in question is a lot bigger than it looks. How much strength does a 3/4" bolt have in shear?
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A bunch, just looks small in the photo, OK I'll keep watching the build, I like what I see
;)
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why not make the upper a j arm ? would help alot with the spacing of shock and stuff?
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why not make the upper a j arm ? would help alot with the spacing of shock and stuff?
I did spend some time working with the idea of a j arm setup for that exact reason. But there was just no room for an adequately built arm of that shape. The steering box is in the way. The tire turning full lock comes very close to the frame. And the pivot points wouldn't be far enough apart to get the strength I want. The current design is very tight but it works.
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Haven't heard how the road tests are going?
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Haven't heard how the road tests are going?
Thanks for the poke! It performs great on the road, excellent off-road, and handles air-time like a champ. I'll post some pics a little later today. You know how it goes. Summer can get pretty busy...
On the subject of suspension: I put too stiff of springs in. It's good for jumps, but honestly I'm not going to jump it that much. That, right now, is my only complaint. But ride height is AWESOME. I've got about 16 inches of clearance under the frame.
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Well it's been longer than I thought. So here's a pic from a couple of weeks ago (nevermind the friend blocking the view, or the crappy picture).
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04017.jpg)
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Lookin' good with them remote reservoirs shinin' in the flash
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Out of curiosity what are the measurements of your upper arm and what weight springs are you using up front?
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Out of curiosity what are the measurements of your upper arm and what weight springs are you using up front?
Hmmm....Secrets of the trade?
More pics:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04035.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04037.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04036.jpg)
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Hmmm....Secrets of the trade?
I was wondering if it was close to any current vehicles upper links, so you could order one for a Thunderbird or something similar instead of building your own upper arm.
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Kia Sportage looks like it could have a good candidate for an upper control arm
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Hmmm....Secrets of the trade?
I was wondering if it was close to any current vehicles upper links, so you could order one for a Thunderbird or something similar instead of building your own upper arm.
Sorry about the previous post. I was just giving you a hard time!
The upper arm is about 6.25" C-C. There are a couple of variables that could be different on another setup that would change the length though...In this setup I was able to achieve nice camber gain, scrub, and enough travel to suit my needs (for now).
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That is looking good.. I am on vacation right now in Mt. Which Is not far from lower
Alberta. Can't wait for more pboto's information. Just broke something in TC so 4*4
is over for this trip.
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Here's some footage from a little gathering we had last weekend. (Also posted in the Adventure forum).
Alberta ZukMeld Fall 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-q45i7oqYrg#ws)
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Great video! It sure looks like you guys had a great time on the trip.
Rob
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AWESOME VIDEO!!! Was that a go pro cam?? If so which model was it?
Zak
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AWESOME VIDEO!!! Was that a go pro cam?? If so which model was it?
Zak
Thanks Guys. It's a Hero HD.
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Nice video, and it looks like the suspension is doing great.
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Great video. I was hoping to take my tracker out with you guys in the spring but I don't know if it will keep up with your guy's though. All I have is a 2" lift, no other upgrades yet. I guess I have the winter to work on it more. Keep posting videos, really enjoyed it.
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Just found this site and registered to ask questions, but decided to see what was being done with Samurias etc. I've been a metal fabricator for well over 25 years, built many a vehicle. All I've got to say is "THAT IS FANTASTIC!!!" :)
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Just found this site and registered to ask questions, but decided to see what was being done with Samurias etc. I've been a metal fabricator for well over 25 years, built many a vehicle. All I've got to say is "THAT IS FANTASTIC!!!" :)
Thanks Dan!
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Next on the list of to-dos:
-Rock Sliders
-Rear Bumper
-Interior work
-Onboard Air
-Skid plates
and more...always more...
I've been busy with life, but will begin posting when I get into these projects!
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Here are some decent, long over due pics:
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04054a.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04053a.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04050.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04044a.jpg)
(http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC04042.jpg)
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Awesome build and I love that video.
I went back and tried to see if you posted up some info on the tires and couldnt find any info, what size and brand?
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I've got some 235/85R16 tires on order. Thought I might give the skinnies a try.
they are federal couragia mt's
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Awesome build and I love that video.
I went back and tried to see if you posted up some info on the tires and couldnt find any info, what size and brand?
Thanks!
As mike572...noted: 235/85R16 federal couragia m/t.
They are cheap and awesome! They clean very well and arent excessively noisy on pavement. The large voids between the lugs does mean it throws the occasional rock. Oh and they are about 32" X 9. I really like these skinnies!
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Sorry to hijack Ben but I picked up one of those cameras a couple weeks ago so I strapped it to the back window of the Sammy and went for a little rip.
Monte Carlo burnouts (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJnHxUN-XWY#)
Ok it wasn't the Sammy, but I should have one that performs like that by the end of winter if I stay motivated.
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Haha! That is AWESOME! What have you got planned? I'm looking forward to seeing a peppy Sami. Gonna give the Maserati a run for its money? The ole Monte goes pretty good too! How do you like the camera? I'm quite happy with mine.
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Haha! That is AWESOME! What have you got planned? I'm looking forward to seeing a peppy Sami. Gonna give the Maserati a run for its money? The ole Monte goes pretty good too! How do you like the camera? I'm quite happy with mine.
I'm building a 2wd Samurai with a small block Chevy and TH350 tranny for the 100 foot shootouts and maybe some quarter mile racing. I might put the powertrain that is in the Monte now directly into the Sammy. With about 1000lbs or more weight removed it should really rip.... The plan includes wheelie bars. I love the camera, in that video I put the open back on it but I shoudn't have. The wind was really whipping, with the camera mounted backwards the closed one would have sounded better. I found it in Edmonton for $325 so I didn't bother getting one shipped from the States. Now I find out they have a GoPro 2 coming out.
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Can you tell us what brand and size your wheels are? And did you finish off the dash and cluster?
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Can you tell us what brand and size your wheels are? And did you finish off the dash and cluster?
Sure!
Tires: Federal Couragia M/T 235/85R16
Wheels: 2006 Suzuki XL-7 (16x7?)
I have been caught up in other things, so I haven't finished the Dash yet (I know, I know! It's been a year and a half!). I will have it done by spring for sure. I made a list of all the mod's to do today to get my brain in motion. Just need to make some space in my garage and I'll be on it!
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Looking forward to it! I love the execution on a lot of your mods. This is one of the best threads here on ZW. I wish I was half as good as you at documenting the things I build. I never remember the camera while Im doing stuff.
I have many questions!
How do you like the coil over setup?
Is your front control arm setup as durable as you had hoped?
How is the Idler arm holding up?
Is it good for daily driving?
How many miles do you put on a year?
I have more but I will try to restrain myself :P
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Looking forward to it! I love the execution on a lot of your mods. This is one of the best threads here on ZW. I wish I was half as good as you at documenting the things I build. I never remember the camera while Im doing stuff.
I have many questions!
How do you like the coil over setup?
Is your front control arm setup as durable as you had hoped?
How is the Idler arm holding up?
Is it good for daily driving?
How many miles do you put on a year?
I have more but I will try to restrain myself :P
Thanks Mike! :-[
The coil over setup is sweet! I need to get a little softer springs though. (I miscalculated on spring rate.)
Yes the control arm setup is solid. Not a single issue so far.
Idler arm is fine, but I was thinking about the steering the other day. Since the tie-rods are in need of replacement, I might have to beef up the whole thing. hmmm...
It is good for daily driving. Though I haven't driven it too much as of late.
I've put on less miles this year as I've been driving other vehicles (Including Suzuki SV650 in the warmer weather), but it probably averages in the last few years to 15,000 kms each. Not as much in the last couple of years as I've had it parked for months at a time for major upgrades.
If you've got more questions...fire away!
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U made my day
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A quick pic of the progress of my winch bumper:
([url]http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss209/bennz9/Mr%20T/DSC02518.jpg[/url])
could you post some pictures of your winch mount i need to build one and i dont know where to start thanks
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could you post some pictures of your winch mount i need to build one and i dont know where to start thanks
I bought a winch plate from Low Range and plated it in between the frame rails.
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so is it only welded to the frame rails?
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so is it only welded to the frame rails?
yep
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love the build. If you didnt use the donor cars radiator would you have had to life the body so high to fit the engine?
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love the build. If you didnt use the donor cars radiator would you have had to life the body so high to fit the engine?
Thanks!
The rad was the reason I lifted the body, but raising the body up I also raised the fuel tank...
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Sweet sweet. I'm sure that more time would lend itself to more... well, just more I guess.
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I know this is bringing up an old topic, but photobucket has now killed the pics. Looking to build something similar, and would love to see how you built this one.