ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: djlantis57 on May 08, 2009, 11:30:38 AM
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So I'm planning on using a Calmini 3" lift. I don't prefer to add the 3" body lift for 6" total...it seems like the radiator is blocked by the bumper too much. AND I'm gonna be using this thing as a local trail rider, nothing serious, and not for much crawliing either...and I like the simple look of Trackers with the 3" kit on them. MY question for you all here is:
Calmini advertises that their 3" kit will fit a 30" tire. I've seen guys running 31x10.50s with this kit on a lot of these forums. FOR my practicality, without doing anything extreme, will those 31s rub horribly, or if I keep my driving mild, will they be ok?
Or should I just stick with a 30x9.50???
Cause BFG's KM2 is available in a 30x9.50...as well as the Hankook DynaPro MT RT03...
KEEP in mind that I am running a 235/75r15 right now on a STOCK height 2dr hardtop 1990 Geo Tracker, and those 235s RUB during STREET driving.
I'm wondering what issues I'd have with the 31s...
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I'm running 31x10.5's on 10" rims with a 2" spacer in the front and a 2 1/2" spacer in the rear. the front tires rub occasionally on full tuck. I did some slight trimming on the rear fenders, but that was due to the wide rims. I think you would be fine with the 31's.
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Yes, I believe my rears rub right now on the top of the fender lip. I'm running 235s on stock height now (bought that way). I hit an intersection too fast, and the fronts rub inside lining, rears rub the fender lip when bottoming out.
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HillbillyDave, what is your backspacing on those 10" rims?
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How well would the clearance be if I installed both the Calmini 3" suspension kit and Sky Manufacturing's 1-inch body lift? Would that fit 31x10.50 good enough? I don't want to run into gearing issues (it's a stock 5spd=5.12:1) would 30x9.50 on 3" be better then?
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I have the rocky road rocksteady lift kit on my 1990 tracker. It has a 2" body lift and 2.5" suspension lift and I run 31X10.5" tires. I had to do some trimming on the front fenders but it doesn't bind in turns or under compression. I also run 8" rims with 2.5" backspace to widen the stance and help with clearance issues.
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WOW so even with 4.5" the 31s rub? I have yet to remove my rims and find out the backspacing, but I plan on keeping them...they're a 15x7 black steelie, and unless I find a few for REAL cheap...the ones I got are fine. Maybe add wheel spacers for a cheap fix if anything. Thanks for the info Mike
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Hey
the 1inch body lift is pretty pointless, i dont seee why the Calmini combo 6'' wouldnt be the way to go. I run 31's on mine now with 2-2.5 suspension lift and 2.5 body with no prob, trimmed them anyway to make it look right.
Bryce
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With a 1" lift you don't have to do a lot of extra modifications like you do with a 3" lift, such as the steering column , brake lines, etc. It gives you just the extra bit of space you need.
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I just think its silly to go through all the hassel of it for only 1'' of lift which is not much on these things, need alot to clear just 31's
The efford/reward ratio is just not there. Dont have to mess with much for 2'' atleast.
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I'm new to this forum. Not happy with my 1.6 motor, thinking of replacing for more power, any suggestions. Not mechanically inclined and will have to get mechanic to do the job. lui
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djlantis57,
The problem is manufacturers lie. A lot. It's common practice for tire manufacturers to be off by +/-1", and a few are +/-2". So, your 31" might fit, and someone else's might rub. That's why the manufacturer only claims to clear 30" tires.
That said, a 3" lift should be more than adequate for MOST 31" tires. Some will even fit with the OME 1.5" lift kit. I have 29" tires on my 4-door and don't need any more clearance or larger tires. If anything I need a locker. There's a guy around here on 29" tires in a samurai that can kick my butt all day long (in my SPOA'd 31" tire rig) because he's locked front and rear. And a locker (and $200 2" spacer lift) is WAY cheaper than new tires, and Calmini's kit. If you go Calmini (or 2" spacer lift) and experience some rubbing, it's either because your backspacing is wrong, and your rubbing the frame (which lifts won't really help with), or your rubbing a fender / bumper. Just do a little trimming. It's virtually free (if you have basic tools), keeps your center of gravity lower, and looks better anyway.
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I'm new to this forum. Not happy with my 1.6 motor, thinking of replacing for more power, any suggestions. Not mechanically inclined and will have to get mechanic to do the job. lui
If you can't do an engine swap yourself, I hope you've got money to burn. Before you dive into this, you may want to consider a Jeep or Toyota which has more power to begin with, and may end up being cheaper than an engine swap. Or maybe a newer Suzuki with a bigger engine.
The most popular engine swap options are:
2.0L Suzuki, 130 Hp / Torque
2.5L V6, 142HP / 150 Torque
2.7L V6 181HP / 185 Torque
4.3L Chevy
22R Toyota
I don't know why the Buick 318 isn't more popular of a swap. It's close to the 4.3L in power, but lighter and smaller. As I said - unless you're getting a good deal on the engine swap, it's going to be expensive. There's a few who specialize on that kind of thing here (trail tough, aftermarket 4x4). Give them a call to find out pricing.
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I'm about 90% ready to order my parts. 3" calmini suspension. and some other goodies. main thing is to get it UP right now, then work on the other smaller items as time goes on this summer. plan to run open diffs for awhile, i'm pretty confident that I can do what i want with open diffs. Not doing anything extreme. Plus, at least for keeping it simple right now, it gives me a chance to enjoy it instead of being torn apart always working on it. I figure use it, if something breaks, then upgrade. but use it first to find out where my weakest links are, then go from there.
My hurry is that I found 30x9.50r15 goodyear wrangler mt/r's for 140 each...and they won't last at the distributor. so I gotta get those and lift it so it's still driveable
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I am running 30X9.50X15 and lots of lift. I spaced, increased spring height, and spaced and sprung, and increased springs again. A good kit will get you there in ONE move. (Not that I didn't enjoy the process.) And it really doesn't take too much to run 30". If you don't have the equipment to modify, or the space to take your time, go with a Kit. And at least lock up the rear.
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GOT MY TIRES!!! WOW...those have deeper tread than I remember seeing before. They're little monsters. 30x9.50r15 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R. What an awesome tire. 5 of them. I will be tracking down a matching fifth rim when I mount the tires and do an alignment after the lift (already have four black steelies from when i bought it)
Got my lift down to $849.95. Everything is ordered! Should be here very soon, as 4WP called Calmini direct to find out if any of it was in stock. ALL of it is in stock, and they actually told me the idler arm gusset # SK10034 does not fit Trackers, only Sidekicks. They said it is one of the only, very few, subtle differences between them. Weird.
Anyways, this is what is coming in:
Warn 34581 Premium Hub kit. Got it down to $143.99. Not bad at all considering 4WP's original price was $183.99. Saved $40 by bringing them a printed price quote from elsewhere ($143.75 at Low Range Off Road).
From Calmini:
SK19900 3" suspension lift
SK10035 steering stabilizer brace
SK10036 front skid
SK10046 t-case skid
SK10047 trans skid
SK10048 rear axle truss skid
ALL of this is in stock at Calmini, but they said their shipping is slow, about 5-7 days out. No problem, I'm just finishing up my semester at Fresno State. WOO HOO going to my last class in 10mins.
AND YES I WILL POST PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This is gonna be my fun summer project. Hopefully it will only last a few weeks or so, so I can enjoy using it for the rest of the summer in between working 2 jobs to earn back the money I just blew on everything! hah
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It's my understanding some Jeep, Dodge and Ford wheels will fit. You need to make sure you get ones that have a large enough hole for the lockout hub in the front.
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Yeah it's the common 5x5.5" setup...like my jeep. But I will let the tire shop find me a matching one when i mount my tires...that way they can get the correct backspacing and everything there...about $55 or so. Just gonna get a fifth one for the spare. Will be rotating it in with the other four to get the best life out of the tires possible.
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Here's some pics. I know...there's a jeep in there...don't hate me: it's my momma's 78 CJ5 with a 78 Chevy 350. Got my speeding ticket in that thing 8)
So here's some pics. Eye candy for yall. Cause i know the saying this thread is useless without pics...here ya go, hope they work this time
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$55 is a good price for new wheels. And, for the record, I think Jeeps are fine vehicles. I just can't afford to upgrade them ::)
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I don't know why the Buick 318 3.8 isn't more popular of a swap. It's close to the 4.3L in power, but lighter and smaller.
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Yeah anyone know how to get this thing out intact? I've been struggling with this cigarette lighter for almost an hour. Hopefully someone can tell me how. Here's two pics so you can see what kind of dash it is:
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Here's some pics. I know...there's a jeep in there...don't hate me: it's my momma's 78 CJ5 with a 78 Chevy 350. Got my speeding ticket in that thing 8)
So here's some pics. Eye candy for yall. Cause i know the saying this thread is useless without pics...here ya go, hope they work this time
do you have any lift there yet? Any issues with tyres scrubbing?? Looks sweet btw!
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Looks better already. They look so anemic with little tires sitting just above the ground. Your parts on order are a good starting point. You won't regret the armour when you get it off the road.
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No lift yet, i bought it just that way, stock height on 235s which are meant for a 2" lift, so yes, they RUB. Hah i hit a poorly paved intersections and the springs soak it up but the tires rub the rear inner fender skirt of the front fenders, and the rear tires rub the top of the fender lip. And yeah, definitely a good starting point...but as far as having a nice little rig on a budget...I probably wont take kit much further other than maybe lockers next year, depends on how the open diffs work for me this year. I don't want to go too tall, on too big of a tire...otherwise I run into gearing problems, and power issues.
ANd yes, the skids will be nice...since i'm not going sky-high, they will let me slide over stuff. Gives me great peace of mind...worth that extra $500 or so
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Anybody ever use a tow bar on these? I found Calmini makes one but who else? I am having a metal shop in town (dad's buddy) make a push bar / light bar for the front and might have him make a custom tow bar mount setup. What other companies offer a specific-fit kinda towbar for a Sidekick/Tracker?
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just weld the brackets from the tow bar to the front of the frame and get a regular tow bar
Harbor freight has one for about $50
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there is a nut on the back of the lighter hold the plug and turn that nut then it comes right out.
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there is a nut on the back of the lighter hold the plug and turn that nut then it comes right out.
I was trying that to no avail, then about 5 mins after I posted those pics, that nut busted loose and the thing came out. Thanks though, I was on the right track with it
just weld the brackets from the tow bar to the front of the frame and get a regular tow bar
Harbor freight has one for about $50
Yeah we have a real long adjustable one on the front of the jeep, and my mom picked up an identical one at a yard sale about a year ago...I just went and got it from storage today...why buy one when I can make do with something I already gots? It will be modified to fit the front of the Tracker along with the new push bar/light bar on the front that is being made soon.
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So I still have the dash all torn apart, and bought my "Wal-Mart special" lights for the front/rear and underneath ;D so time to start mounting all that stuff and running my wires along the frame. Figured out the CB mount, probably mount it tonight and the antenna and start taking apart some interior panels to run the antenna cable. HUBS are in at 4WP but not picking up until the lift is in...June 5th Calmini estimated. Got the idle smoothed out great...smooth at 700 or so (rough at 600 so turned it up a bit) and starts at 2,000 when cold (not great, but better than a cold start at 3,500 RPM).
And the new switchboard panel should be ready tomorrow. Dad (in construction) needed some stainless steel sheet made and bent to specs, so he took my pattern and is getting it made at a SS shop...when that comes I can mount my switches and new cig. lighter outlets...and CB mic mount, etc...post pics of that asap.
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UPDATE: took final shipment yesterday, Monday, June 6th, of all the Calmini parts. Started stripping the Tracker down some more than I already had. Basically have the entire front suspension disassembled, to reinstall with the new Calmini hardware and parts. BUT as I am stripping down the suspension front and rear, I am also touching up paint and undercoating on the chassis. WILL POST PICTURES. But my white Tracker has a WHITE underbody that had 20years of road tar on it...so after four steam cleanings...out came the Kragen rubberized undercoat on Friday afternoon before I had to work at 6pm (word of advice, do NOT spray rubberized undercoat for 4 hours and try to get ready for work at a restaurant in time...that stuff does not like to come off easy. shoulda worn coveralls).
But didn't want to tear down the stock suspension until I knew my parts would be here...so with the suspension removed I touched up the rubberized undercoating at 11pm last night...ate dinner...then went back outside to put a coat of semi-gloss black spraypaint on the front of the frame, to get ready for future bumper installation (I want the frame behind the bumper to be black), and the rear a-arm crossmember, all painted black. I don't want any leftover white frame showing then the lift is finished. Black hides road tar and dirt a lot better underneath. Plus, the frame was looking ugly as it sat. Next step is ordering Trail Tough tube bumpers and sliders. Linda at TT said they can modify the front bumper to eliminate the winch plate and mount me a 2" receiver...so I will most likely go that route. .145 wall tubing is the best built bumper/slider combo I have seen yet.
Post pics soon. I will take some today before I start reinstalling the new Calmini components.
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Fantastic looking hardtop! I love those! Wish mine was a hardtop. Looks like a great buildup. Can't wait to see more pics! Have any rust issues to contend with? I know the convertible versions like mine are all rotted out in the back.
Keep up the good work!
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Have any rust issues to contend with? I know the convertible versions like mine are all rotted out in the back.
NO rust. Literally. This thing musta been garaged when it wasn't being towed. No rust but I am just painting and undercoating to hide the ugly white chassis.
And yes, it is a fun build. I am moving very fast on the suspension but very slow on the project as a whole since I have to keep stopping to wait for paint to dry. My next step is to install the new hubs while other things are drying. Had to work at 4pm yesterday so couldn't finish the differential drop brackets. BTW, called Calmini yesterday, JAKE answered the phone:
"Calmini Products how may I direct your call?"
I told them I bought SK19900 3" kit for my Tracker and was at the step pertaining to the center differential mount...
"Oh, you want to know which bushing goes where, don't you?"
BINGO! (talk about mind reading)
"Factory bushing on top, Calmini bracket, then the Calmini bushing on bottom, then the crossmember."
I shortenened the sleeve +/- 1/4" instead of eliminating it, I figured it would be better to have it.
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Here's an update: I was supposed to post these pictures for yall the other day, but was too busy. THis was before I started installing the lift, and in the process of touching up paint. I undercoated the frame and all wheelwells, and painted the whole front end black, and the front a-arm hangers and the main crossmember black too. Here's what it looked like a few days ago:
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I found a can of blue spraypaint in my shed that was somewhat close to Calmini blue...painted my sway bar. Then as of last night: front end completed...dropped rear gas tank skid in preparation for the Aftermarket 4x4 gas tank skidplate. Want to drop the whole tank to paint the rear frame like I did on the front. Next step: "SKITIME" lights ;D
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Damn! That looks good. Wish mine looked like that!
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Dang!! Nice work so far! I can't wait till I can get some pretty blue bits, if I don't SAS it instead! ::)
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Everything is so very clean... :D
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Everything is so very clean... :D
I know! After seeing some pictures on here of some that come from other parts of the world, mine is really rust-free. The worst rust I have seen is purely surface rust. It looks great. I guess I'm blessed to have found one in such good condition.
Put the four tires on today, on four car dollies, and spun the car 180 degrees to work on the rear now. Tore apart the rear end today and touched up all the undercoating I missed in the rear, masked off the back half of the car and painted the frame and bumper area black just like the front. But DAMMIT I forgot pictures! Sorry. Some tomorrow for sure.
This morning I ordered the Sky HD Idler Arm and Aftermarket 4x4 gas tank skid plate through Sean Conk at Low Range Off Road. Nice guy. Idler Arm has already shipped. 10 days for the gas tank skid. Then called Trail Tough and ordered my front bumper. I am ordering one bumper at a time, and starting with the front, since Linda |removethispart|@ TT said they are making it custom, built to order, for me, for the same price, and will take 10 days to fabricate. So that's a plus :)
If i get the rear end done too soon, I will finish my Skitime lights and start wiring my fuse block and CB and finish my dashboard panel. Will post pictures of the new dash panel when it's mounted in place and completed.
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Got the back finished yesterday or the day before. Just bleeding my brakes today and making longer rear diff breather, and drawing my switchboard pattern on AutoCAD before I hack into the new stainless steel panel. Here's a few pics (2) days ago the back end done and what my paint looks like all done minus the shocks. INstalled the new idler arm too...WOW
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The rear kit is done. INstalled a stainless steel diff breather line, and still have yet to bleed brakes. Been REALLY lagging since I finished the rear suspension, lost a lot of drive to finish it all of a sudden, so I spent time on the "little" nagging projects that consume a lot of time, while i'm waiting for the rest of my parts to come in. So far: installed my "skitime" lights, fully functional and everything. Was about to start cutting holes in my switchboard for switches, but has a brainfart to locate my switches where they would be easier to reach and install an oil pressure gauge and voltmeter in the other dash panel. Other than the mirror lights, there is nothing done too much. Just waiting for parts to come in to mount the rest of the lights, get the car out of my sideyard, and start tweaking it to at least drive to the tire shop for mounting and alignment.
Has anyone had to re-align their Tracker/Sidekick again after alignment, after the installing the Calmini 3" suspension and it "settles", does the alignment change too much?
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You will probably want to have it checked if you align it right out of the shop. I did a driveway alignment (close enough to drive good) and went up to Tellico and ran the forrest roads for two days to get everything broken in good (even some jumping) When I got back I checked everything then took it to the alignment shop//
HTH,
Zig
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That's what I was thinking about doing...keep it on my old tires (cause I don't care how they wear, evenly or not), and do a driveway alignment on the toe-in just to get it driveable (ignore the camper for now) and go break in the suspension for a week of driving or so, then professionally align it and mount my new tires and such.
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You all done yet? I wanna see it!
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Dang haven't posted in awhile. It's been up on its tires, each on a wheel dolly so I can spin it around and move it sideways in my driveway, but not 100% driving yet. Going to put it on my flatbed to take it to an auto shop to flush out a lot of fluids and change timing belt, etc. so I know how old it is, so I can start my own maintenance schedule. Then to get aligned with the old tires still. Will have the 30s on it by the time fall rolls around (and school starts too) after a few little 4x4 runs and at least 500-1000 miles to get it "broken in".
Monday: tested all trailer wiring (at back for towing trailer, and wiring in front from previous owner to use taillights when towing with towbar), and rerouted front wiring and modified plug ends for my family's trucks to tow it. Tucked away nice.
Got my Trail Tough rear bumper and side sliders yesterday, mounted the rear today, and rerouted trailer wiring, etc. Almost done with my switchboard so I can complete the interior stuff once and for all.
Maybe tomorrow (Thursday) I can find someone to help me hold up the TT nerf bar sliders so I can mark my holes, and have to drop the lower trailing arm to mount the rear bracket. But for now I am doing one-man stuff to kill time.
I wish I had a few pictures of how it looks with front and rear bumpers and back on its own tires, but didnmt think ahead!
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BUT I might go look at something tomorrow...
I randomly typed in "Suzuki" on Fresno Craigslist last night, considering I haven't been on in MONTHS, and this popped up: an 88 samurai with a decent looking lift, 5500lb winch and bumper, with a 1.6L 8v motor...for only $2500. And the two pictures actually show it pretty decent. Now I know I dont need another one...but damn that looks like an awesome deal...take a look and tell me what you think:
http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/1264487340.html
My dad and I had 2 samurais a couple years back and never did anything with them, and sold them as-is just as we got them. One was a 1987 Samurai Special Edition (grey with red stripes and logos), which I understsand now is actually pretty rare, and a 1988 Samurai. The reason we sold them? We wanted EFI and didn't want to do our own 1.6 swap. So a few years later (this April) found my Tracker and got it cause it was EFI and 4x4 and a stick shift...the three main things we wanted.
Looks like this guy did all the hard work and a nice 1.6 swap in his Sammy. Only $2500. Damn. I have no use for it but still want to get it!
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heh. yeah it looks alright....but I drive a Tracker, so I'm a tad biased. =) You already did a ton of work on yours....why don't ya use your money to keep working on it, instead of buying another one. Then you'd have to start the process all over.
still waiting for pics too.... =P
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That's the problem, samurai opens up a whole can o' worms. I'm very happy with the tracker...only a few companies make a limited amount of upgrades for it, which keeps it fairly simple and low-cost. A Samurai? Damn, its a lot different. 1.3 or 1.6? SPUA or SPOA? GRS I or GRSII? Fuel tank upgrade? Seat upgrade? Do you want 5:1 or 6:1 or 4.89:1 in the t-case? The options are endless.
I got my tracker cause it was EFI, manual, and 4x4 and was (is still) in excellent condition and very well maintained by a little old man who towed it behind his RV its whole 76k mile life (or 176k, if the odo rolled over). At least with the tracker I had a few major choices on the suspension, and I chose Calmini because they were the only company that offered a diff drop and redesigned a-arms and full strut, shock, and spring replacement, not to mention all those nice poly bushings everywhere!!! And upgrades like the steering stabilizer and full skidplates (which I have too!), future upgrades such as the anvil housing, etc. Samurai has too many possibilities.
On the other hand, it appears nicely built as-is, so it might be damn good functional as it sits. But yeah I've invested a lot of time and $$$ in my tracker and loving how it is looking so far. The time is the major investment...and makes it just the more worth it. The little finishing touches that take so much time are the things that I notice most, like my interior dash panels and the switchboard, etc. since I like to take pride in my work, cause other people see my work, realize I can do stuff...then I can make some extra $$$ on the side doing stuff for other people and making it work and look nice as if it was my own rig.
Lindenmooch, I have a few pictures of my gauge panel in the topic "Help installing oil pressure gauge"
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=25574.0
Feast your eyes :)
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man that panel is PIMP! nice work mate!
I can understand what you're saying about the differences between the samurai and the track/kick. Lot of options for those little suzuki boxes. And not many for the Track/kicks. But I never have any money for upgrades anyway, so the Tracker is just fine for me, hah.
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Yeah and I'm loving it right now cause it's fairly simple. I have put more time and money into this since I got it, than I have in my f/s chevy in the past two years!
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Heya maybe someone can help me out here.
Once I get the Tracker driving again, I am going to hook up a winch, try out my lighting, etc etc etc and see how well the alternator performs. First thing I am going to to, is take it to a local shop (Starr Rebuilders), since they can work wonders and might be able to boost my stock alternator instead of doing an alternator swap.
Trail Tough makes a lower bracket only...so there's still some work to be done on my part.
Roadless Gear makes a kit...alternator, brackets, belt, pigtail: no guesswork. This looks very good.
And I just found out Petroworks makes an alternator kit for the 1.6L 8v. It's a 105amp kit using a newer Delco-Remy from a late model GM truck. Cost is $250, kinda pricey.
Has anyone tried any of these kits? Because if my local shop can't do much with my stock one, then a swap is the last option available.
Also, I was looking on Suzuki aftermarket websites for a clutch fan delete kit. Petroworks sells a flex fan kit. But ultimately, I want to find a heavy-duty radiator (aluminum?) for my Tracker, and use an electric fan, that way I eliminate the fan drag on the engine.
Who has installed an electric fan? I can't find a company that makes a specific kit for a Tracker, but haven't done the research yet with a universal kit. Hopefully someone else has done this and can tell me what to look for.
Third, how easy is it to install an MSD-6 ignition system on a Tracker 1.6L 8v? And is there a realistic gain from doing this? A coil is a simple plug-and-play upgrade, but I'm talking about the MSD ignition box system
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still waiting for pics too.... =P
Ask and ye shall receive. It was dark out by the time I remembered, but here's two teaser shots
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it looks....brand new. well....way better than brand new. it's amazing all the attention to detail and the care you put into this thing. flawless.
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I'll take a few daylight pictures today, so you can see what i did. As far as attention to detail, that's the most time consuming stuff, and what sets it apart from the rest...and makes me proud of the work I do.
Like instead of just bolting on the Trail Tough bumpers and the lift, etc...I had the whole suspension stripped, so I rubberized the frame and wheelwellls with undercoating, and painted the front and rear sections of the frame black, since the tube bumpers let the frame show through. Now everything you see behind the bumpers is all black instead of a dirty white. I masked a straight line at the back, and painted where the old plastic bumper used to cover...I'll show a pic of this later but I wrapped the black paint around the back corner panels at the bottom. Looks very nice behind that bumper.
I'll post some daylight pics soon
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It looks good. The back looks kind of empty without a tire hanging out there though. :D
For the alternator, are you planning on running a bunch of extra lights? If it is just for running the winch a good battery may be enough. I use the stock alternator on my SJ-410 and don't have any problems running the 9000 lb winch on the front of it.
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It will be a Warn M8000. I've already got it for my other trucks, on a portable hitch mount, hence my need for front and rear receiver bumpers.
Yes, a few sets of Wal-Mart lights. I picked up 5 sets of 55w halogens. Very rarely will ALL FIVE sets be on at once, but I want the capacity for it, still. Mostly 3 to 4 sets will be on together. All five if nobody is traveling behind me (backup lights). I'm used to driving "lead" when my dad is towing our toyhauler in the mountains...since my half-ton chevy is smaller and I can warn people ahead that there is a trailer behind me.
The spare tire carrier I removed just a few days ago temporarily; my family and I kept bumping the wheel lugs and snagging our clothing on it in the driveway while I'm working on it. It goes back on once it's driving again.
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Looks good! Are you going to repaint the loud Calmini parts black too?
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Nope it's a pretty good powdercoating job so why change it? Some people have been disappointed with Calmini apparently, but so far I haven't had a problem with them one bit. They supplied a great product, I ordered through a distributor that allowed me to get it at a great price, and the few questions I have had to call Calmini's tech dept have been answered with respect and were very helpful. So I, personally, at this point in time, like the company and the service I have received.
Besides, the tracker might not be white for too long... ;) I sure do like OD green
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Nope it's a pretty good powdercoating job so why change it? Some people have been disappointed with Calmini apparently, but so far I haven't had a problem with them one bit. They supplied a great product, I ordered through a distributor that allowed me to get it at a great price, and the few questions I have had to call Calmini's tech dept have been answered with respect and were very helpful. So I, personally, at this point in time, like the company and the service I have received.
Besides, the tracker might not be white for too long... ;) I sure do like OD green
Oh, I was just sure with all your attention to detail that you wouldn't leave such an unmatched look to it! But if you like it, that's all that matters!
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Oh, I was just sure with all your attention to detail that you wouldn't leave such an unmatched look to it! But if you like it, that's all that matters!
Well if I was THAT obsessive-compulsive, then I'd have to paint my gold skidplates black too! Those will be going on as soon as all the gear fluids are changed out. Probably monday it is going into a shop to change the water pump and timing chain, flush coolant, flush brake system, change oil and filter and change the 4 gearbox oils. General maintenance. That way everything has "0" miles on it so I can keep track of maintenance
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Daylight pictures for you of how I painted the bumper areas
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looks amazing!
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Thanks.
Anyone know the service interval for a timingbelt? I'm just going to have it replaced with the water pump when I take it to the shop this week
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60K miles
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I doubt it's ever been replaced
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djlantis57
i have a 94 tracker and breaking parts then replacing them with something better sounds good. i have all stock parts and have hurt nothing but the wheel bearings (again and again) and today the third member case. keeping in mind that all the guys i wheel with have 33s 35s and 36s and they play hard as none of us drive them daily,all have spare parts and spare parts trucks i have jumped,almost flipped and turned my little 1.6 to 7000-7500rpm allot to run with them they hold up very well and this is coming from someone who until last year thought geos and sammis were underpowered junk and in no way compaired to a chevy. that says something. a tip if your truck has auto lock hubs trash them and swap to man. i found out thats where the water was gettin in and killin my bearings. so if light Wheeling is all you should be good as long as you dont play in water if you do get man. hubs
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Yeah I used to have the "bigger is better" mentality but got smart years ago and realized it's about how well the rig performs and how good a driver is behind the wheel.
Already swapped the hubs, wanted a 100% confidence in them being locked or unlocked when I want them to be
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same here
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Bled brakes today. Mounted pass. side TT sidebar, got the driver's side in place but have to mark and drill the final few holes tomorrow. They look great. After that, then I can run my last wires under the car and mount up the alst few lights, so I can wrap up my switchboard and wires in the cabin...then my interior is 100% wrapped up. I didn't want to be towing it from shop to shop around town with the interior having different small parts floating around, wanted that wrapped up so nothing would go missing or get messed up. I'll post pics when the sliders are done, and the lights mounted and wired, and interior switched finished.
Got the mirror lights (Skitime's idea) operable the other day since I was fooling with the switches. http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=25441.0
Waited and turned them on later that night...wow. That's an unbelievable, gotta-have-it mod. Took a while to carefully cut it out, but it worked.
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I got a line on some 15x8's, 3.75" BS.
I am running a Calmini 3" suspension kit, and 30x9.50R15 Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs. Is this the optimum width and BS for my application?
I hope someone with the same kit and 30s can share their information and experience.
If my tires rub, I plan on dropping that extra $100 and get the Sky 1" body lift for just the clearance I need. But I am trying to get the right rim, best-case-scenario.
Thanks
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Alright so I actually achieved my personal goal for this week (a day early too!) of getting the entire interior wrapped up. That meant getting all my lights mounted, wires run, everything powered up so I could tuck away my interior wiring and switches. Since I can only add 4 attachments per post, I figured out how to post pics within the topic reply. Here goes:
started here...then cut it out...
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5310-2.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5303-3.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5304-3.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5305-2.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5306-2.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5301-3.jpg)
then in the car...(5 sets of lights, 2 dummy switches for future add-ons)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5302-1.jpg)
and the finished console center stack...
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5301-2.jpg)
here's how the CB antenna was mounted
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5304-1.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5303-1.jpg)
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Front lights:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5306-1.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5311-1.jpg)
Notice how well these little buggers light up in the above picture:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5309-1.jpg)
Underneath I mounted two more set of the same lights as in the mirror. protected by the Trail Tough sliders and brackets. Won't get hit by 90% or debris:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5307-1.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5308-1.jpg)
Tilt your head to the right 90* to see how this next picture works:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5314.jpg)
And they light up the underside damn well if I do say so myself...
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5312.jpg)
And the back lights. Same as the fronts. The Trail Tough bumpers allowed for a prefect mounting location for the front and rear lights.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5305-1.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5313.jpg)
All lighting courtesy of WAL-MART! 3 year warranty! Can't beat that for 5 sets of lights for 94 bucks!
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Mmmmm.... lights....
Did you use relays?
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Very good work. Nice place for the switch panel.
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I like the switch panel as well. Plenty bright underneath. :D
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Have you driven with the rocker switches on ??? I have the same lights (only installed 1 set) from Wal-Mart. Where I located the light (near left knee), it can be distracting at night because it's so bright :'( I'm thinking of installing a different rocker that's just got a little LED or something.
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Thanks guys. It took awhile.
No relays, just used the wires included in the kit and shortened them as needed. On my other trucks (my Chevy, dad's Super Duty, etc) I scrapped the kit's wiring and used all 12-gauge wire, since the trucks are much longer. Less voltage drop...they light up bright. But this is such a small car the kit's wires work just fine. I haven't had much luck adding relays in the past, but that was years ago, I'm sure I could figure it out now with a little more experience. I know a relay will give higher output to the lamps while drawing less power from the battery, but I just have to see how much power they even draw before I start looking into a bigger battery and upgraded alternator. Stock is 55amp...not much but we'll see how it handles the lights and winch.
The switches, they aren't as bright as you say, they're mostly a glow. On the other hand, I used some of those switches, Jeremiah, in my 2003 Silverado, and they blind me at night (pictured below). The one on the bottom is red, and glows just fine, but the three up top are a "fire" blue and are absolutely blinding. Turn those on, and it's almost as much light as the dome light inside!!!
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wow, that looks amazing!! congrats on an excellent job!
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Thanks. I'm gonna "test fit" my skidplates today. Probably remove them before I tow it to the shop for servicing, since they will have to drop them to flush my diffs and gearboxes. But might as well test fit them now since not much else to do on it!
BTW TT said my bumper was getting recoated yesterday, I should expect it next week? or so. Then I can make my tow bar mounts to the frame
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On the other hand, I used some of those switches, Jeremiah, in my 2003 Silverado, and they blind me at night (pictured below).
Good to know, since those were exactly the LED switches I had in mind. I think I'm getting a little blinded because of the location of the switch. Being down out of periferal vision (where you have yours) probably goes a long way to helping out. I'll look around and see if I can get mine off my dash, and do what you did - I like that clean install. Where'd you get the panel to mount the switches on ???
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Well the red is just fine. I installed a GREEN one in my dad's Super Duty Ford (since Ford gauges are green) and it isn't blinding bright. Just the blue ones, for some odd reason. Weird, but they definitely let you know when they are on!
I like that clean install. Where'd you get the panel to mount the switches on ???
Are you talking about the Tracker or the Silverado? I used the Silverado panel and drilled holes. I made the Tracker's panel out of stainless steel plate, and cut the rectangular holes
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OOOH...flexy!
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5311-5.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5310-4.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5307-4.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5308-3.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5309-5.jpg)
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Haven't been on in awhile. Had to work and been busy getting stuff done around the house. Not to mention the college raised fees (again) what surprise!!! (sarcasm) so I had to pay that BS too...
the Tracker's at a mechanic's shop right now. He's changing my timing belt, water pump, and all my belts, hoses, and fluids. I supplied all parts (from NAPA) and went with OEM spec. parts. The guy is a family friend and is doing me a favor by letting me supply parts (vs. him purchasing and charging a mark-up). Should be getting it back very soon.
He's also looking into that center link for me...the alignment shop said it was "bad" and this mechanic said that they don't "go bad" on cars like this.
He also said he'd check my head gasket since I told him I had a coolant leak on the front of the engine...thought it was my water pump gasket but he said the head gasket design has a water passage towards the front of the block? I'll find out more this week.
In another month or so, I'm going to be buying some rims for the 30" Goodyears. Any suggestions? I haven't gotten much feedback so far on the proper backspacing I should run. Looking at a 15x8, 3.75" BS with the 30x9.50R15 on 3" Calmini lift. Is that a good backspacing for all the clearance or should I go to 3.5" or 3" BS? Or 15x7 would make a difference or not?
Finally: a "cosmetic" question on the black steel rims: soft 8's, or Daytona style? ;D
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Tough call on the wheels. I like the Daytona's over the Soft 8's, as I'm not a huge fan of the circles in the wheel and prefer the spoke design. :)
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I started thinking about it and the Daytonas would look better. Soft 8's, anything with larger holes look better on larger vehicles (like my FS chevy, my K5, etc)...the smaller holes and smaller spokes of the Daytona look great on the Tracker...why should I change it???
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Did you ever find out about the engine and front end from the second shop?
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Engine was fine. I bought all the parts (he let me, so he won't mark up the parts if he bought them) and he installed it all. Both accessory belts, upper radiator hose and (2) lower hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, timing belt, and tensioner, water pump, flush coolant, change oil and filter, flush out gear oil in trans, t-case, front and rear diffs. He said the timing belt was a good choice to replace it, it was worn. And he said the front center link was tight as it needed to be. I can't find any anywhere anyways, so I'm not worried about it. I have no "play" as I cruise at speed, so what's the worry anyways...
Just have to put on my new valve cover gasket, and this week I am getting the tow bar mounts done. I'll post pics of how that turns out when it's all done
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Tow bar is supposed to be done tomorrow. Today, I reinstalled all my skidplates (took them off for the mechanic) and re-torqued everything before I put them on. I also solved this little problem:
When I installed the Calmini transfer case skid, I noticed the "Z" clamping bracket tightened all the way down, did not clamp the crossmember. So it was floating:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5313-3.jpg)
In the two weeks it was on there, every once in awhile during a hard shift between 1 and 2, or taking off in first, I would hear a clunk, this was assumed to be the problem. My dad's idea was to slip a piece of large rubber hose over the crossmember, and I put it off until I was reinstalling it today. I had the right diameter hose sitting in my garage, cut off a few inches of it, and this is how it worked:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5301-11.jpg)
slit it down the middle...then slid over the crossmember...
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5302-9.jpg)
and with the bracket tightened all the way, the skid does not "float" anymore, and I don't hear that clunk. Plus it just seems more secure that way
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5303-9.jpg)
And here's all of them installed:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5304-8.jpg)
I'm looking at all sorts of ideas people have had on strut tower braces. I saw a lot of talk about ideas when I used the search tool, but no pictures or actual product. I like bentparts, I sent him a PM. But I'm also wondering if it would be a complete waste of time for me. Ipm not doing anything extreme, it's a basic trail vehicle, and it will be used occasionally for some mild rock stuff. Nothing major, but just how much do the strut towers move? Enough to worry me?
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You will probably be ok without a strut tower brace. But it doesn't hurt to put one on. Plus it gives you something to do. :)
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Are those skid plate bolts the way they're designed by Calmini? They look like they would get hung up very easily.
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You will probably be ok without a strut tower brace. But it doesn't hurt to put one on. Plus it gives you something to do. :)
And I will always be looking for those little improvements at a time-waster. But there's no such thing as wasting time if you're improving something...
Are those skid plate bolts the way they're designed by Calmini? They look like they would get hung up very easily.
Yeah I wondered about that. The bolts in the rear of the transmission skidplate are hidden in a recess in the plate, I wonder why they didn't design the rest of them that way. I DID "layer" the skidplates so the front plate(s) overlap the plate behind it, and that plate overlaps the one behind it, etc...that way moving forward, if I were to slide over something, it would not catch the lip of the plate, it would slide over easily. I agree, the skidplates are very practical, but the bolt location probabyl could have been designed better. For "simple-minded" people like me, it's a real simple bolt-on plate system, though. If I was more welder-savvy, I coulda done it better, but I'm not one to talk!
Got my tow bar all mounted up on Friday. We decided to put on a whole crossbar in the front, and then mount the tow bar to that. We also needed the tow bar brackets pushed forward a bit to clear the bottom of the aftermarket bumper, so we went with 2" square stock. Welded it to the frame, and added a gusset at the bottom of the frame rails, too, I figured, to help tie everything in even more. Also welded the spud in the frame for the Trail Tough front bumper. The tow bar clears everything just right.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5301-12.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5302-10.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5303-10.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5304-9.jpg)
Also, welded 2 large chain links to the bottom of the hitch on the back of the Trail Tough tube bumper to be legal for towing a small trailer, it needed safety chain loops. Welded them on, and painted that area and everything on the front.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5305-8.jpg)
Looks good, tows good. I just need to quit fooling with this kinda stuff and USE the Tracker for once!!!
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REPLACED front CV axles. NAPA lifetime warranty. Even if the boot tears, I will never have to pay for a replacement axle. Not too bad when you have a friend at NAPA that discounts your stuff anyways :D. I replaced since I had 1 torn boot, one that was starting to tear, and the other two were just as old...and the axles were priced right and warrantied and it was better to replace both axles than try to install a new boot, since I would have it off anyways, and didn't like the "cheap" fix of the clamp-on boot. Although the ziploc bag and 2 zip ties made a nice boot two weeks ago when I drove it all weekend on trails for hunting...
And...they were fairly easy. Driver's side especially...I took someone's suggestion and didn't have to remove the spindle. Pass. side I had to since I still have regular axles. The widening mod / Anvil housing will definitely make axle replacement much better
Drove it for the first time up the "four lane" a pretty damn good climb in CA going up highway 168 to the mountains. It's one of the steepest I'm familiar with statewide. Went up 4th gear pedal down, chugging along 50-55mph...I accidentally took my foot off so I had to downshift to 3rd once by mistake but it held up at 55 in 4th just fine. Also, was concerned about going downhill after the trip...didn;t want to gain too much speed...but even in 4th it wasn't fast enough so I went to 5th and even then it wouldn't coast, if I took my foot off it would lose speed so I literally had to drive it down (vs. coasting) the whole way! Weird. All other cars I've been in I had to coast down in a lower gear
Got my 30" tires mounted, it's still at the alignment shop. I wanted to use regular bolts and slot the holes, since a camber bolt is smaller and therefore weaker but they wanted to try them, then they said "holy sh*t our camber bolts DO look weak" heh so they're slotting the holes after all and I asked them to tack-weld the washers to the struts so they won't move, but still removable in the future for alignments. LOOKS 100X better with JUST the SPARE mounted, instead of the stock 205 on a silver rim. I found a fifth matching black rim, so I was able to use my existing 4 from the previous owner, looks like they're Pro Comp black rock crawler steel, 15x7, 3.75" BS. I will be posting soon that I have (4) new condition all-terrains for sale, P235/75R15, they still have the rubber nubs on them, I put roughly 1,000 miles on them and have a record from PO of when she installed them last year
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This post is pretty much dead now but here's where I'm sitting now:
got my Tracker back from the tire shop on Friday the 2nd. Had 5 tires mounted and balanced, on the one new rim (which was an exact match to my set of four---Pro Comp black steel), and a proper alignment. I wanted to slot the strut holes, they wanted to use camber bolts...I told them the camber bolt is technically smaller and thus weaker they said no, so I told them to do what wasbest...two days later they called me and told me that I was right, the camber bolts looked WAY too weak, they didn't want the liability of one breaking! So they slotted the holes, top and bottom, of the strut, and I had them also tack-weld them in place, so they're not going anywhere. It looks great, especially getting rid of the stock spare makes it look 10x better!
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5317-1.jpg)
Mind you, this is still 3.75" BS. No rubbing so far, but I haven't pushed it to its limits yet. It's just been a hunting trail rig lately.
It snowed like hell on us that weekend, but it drove just fine all the way home Sunday.
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5316-1.jpg)
And with the new tires (30x9.50R15) and stock gears, 5.125:1, thiis how I was running at 55 and 65
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/IMG00042.jpg)
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/IMG00043.jpg)
Next, I finally fine-tuned my skidplate fix with a longer, more appropriate u-bolt. Here's what I did to keep it from getting snagged and pulled down again:
(http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/153_5315-2.jpg)
This post is pretty much dead. No news for awhile until after I do some other little things. I also found one wreckingyard in town that had an 89 tintop sidekick with the front doors and rear hatch door...for my half-door project...still intact.
OH ONE QUESTION FOR SOMEONE WHO MIGHT KNOW will a 4dr rear hatch door fit a 2dr tintop rear? They look the same, measure up the same, but I'm not sure. It's a 97 4dr sidekick sport (and it still has the 1.8L engine in it!) and mine's a 90 2dr, they look the same but I'm not sure. I know the front doors are different, I'm just concerned with the rear hatch door. Hope someone knows
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I have just joined this site as I have purchased a 94 sidekick Hardtop and am one to gather as much info on a new toy as quick as possible. I must say you have made my life much easier. 98% of what you have done is pretty much my plans. With that said thanks for making my build a lot easier...
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I have just joined this site as I have purchased a 94 sidekick Hardtop and am one to gather as much info on a new toy as quick as possible. I must say you have made my life much easier. 98% of what you have done is pretty much my plans. With that said thanks for making my build a lot easier...
Yes, I joined here shortly after I bought mine, and got a lot of help with it immediately, and a lot of suggestions. Glad I can pass it on to the next person who's "starting out." It all ended up really good and I'm satisfied with it for the most part, and drive it almost daily with no problems, it's a relatively rough ride but still comfortable
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THIS IS NOT FAIR!!!! Your making me miss my old Kick :'( Nice job on the tin top.... 8)
Zig
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Thanks. The next step is to find a 91+ t-case and install the 4:1. Then, a locker in the rear...it will depend on a few things. Supposedly KAM will have a rear setup for the Tracker/Sidekick trucks near the end of this year, so I'll wait and see. Main thing is to do the transfer case.
I used the Tracker to pull out two trucks stuck in the lake on Wednesday and up until then, my transmission has been acting "questionable"...I think pulling out the F250 did it in, because the clutch seems to be slipping like crazy right now. I'll see how far I can get on it...if I have to replace it I will plan on doing the transfer case very soon at the same time while I have the old one out.
updates in the future...
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;) Great looking ride!
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Thought I would update this...
I've tinted the windows 5% on the three rears, front brow, and 35% on the front sides (don't want to draw TOO much attention from local law enforcement) :police: I feel like I can pick my nose in privacy now :laugh: but seriously, whenever I actually DO have the windows rolled up, it seems like it's much nicer inside. Not so much glare compared to the clear windows before. A/C is nice too ;D
Added some small doo-dads including a flashlight bracket above the driver's side door opening that bolted to the nuts welded in the roof where a grab handle was supposed to go. I'm 6'1" tall and have learned to duck my head a little extra with those flashlights in the way. With them mounted, it's that much less stuff rolling around inside the car. Dash-mat, AVS window visors, hood visor, I have some ricer-taillights coming soon (they may look cheesy but I got the black ones since I'm chromophobic and the black matches all my bumpers and fender flares better). Replaced some rear seat hardware from Hawk Suzuki so now my rear seats fold forward and STAY forward.
I think I'm going to make some one-off pedals out of a thick piece of aluminum diamond plate I have sitting around, and bolt them to the original pedals. Seems like the OE pedals are a bit too small for my size 12 boots. When it's raining my feet slip off :o
Since I burnt my clutch in early June, the car has been sitting. Once again, I've spent my entire summer NOT driving it! Ironic.
What's happening (one SLOW step at a time):
new clutch KIT (not just the disc, but full kit, bearings and all). I took the advice on here and up-sized to the 16v clutch, it's slightly larger, not much, but still it offers more grabbing surface area.
resurfaced flywheel
rear main bearing seal
re-seal oil pan
distributor o-rings (I will add RTV to the housing o-ring to really seal the hell outta it)
new valve cover gasket (since I pulled the valve cover)
replaced various missing bolts on the engine. Long story, whoever installed the exhaust on this did a crappy job on a lot of things...including leaving two bolts out of the driver's side engine mount, and two more bolts missing on the header flange, when they installed the Thorley header. These are things that a monkey would have noticed when installing a header. They also welded part of the catalytic converter's heat shield directly to something that bolted to the transmission, so it had no "give" and the weld broke and rattled. I was upset, but relieved when I found it was a crappy piece of metal rattling and not my CAT that I thought I was going to have to replace for the past month of driving. The heat shield itself was ugly, too, it has 10 screws holding it on to the cat, and a bunch of boogerwelds...why you would need screws AND welds baffles me...
Also, instead of using a lock-washer or fiber lock-nut on something on the exhaust, this guy double-nutted it and welded the nuts to the bolt. So I had to cut this particular piece off because it was a welded mess that wouldn't give.
The guy then had the nerve to spraypaint his shop's name on the muffler. If I did work like that on a customer's car, I wouldn't want to advertise MY name. What a crock.
replaced the hard plastic front fender linings with a soft rubber liner. It's got nylon webbing reinforcement similar to a truck mudflap. VERY strong. I was going to initially use vinyl construction base but it felt too weak and soft and I know it I was going fast enough and a rock was in my tire, if it flew out of the tread and hit that, it would probably shoot right through it, it's so soft. This stuff is pretty damn durable. It's called "PVC-90" if anyone is interested. Hoping it will be quieter if a rock flies out of the tire. And the old plastic ones were cracked and had broken at the bottom near the rear of the front fender, letting lots of debris in. These new ones I made seal everything up tight now. At the same time, incorporating mudflaps and flexy fender flares for both front and rear fenders (I will post pics of this later as it's still a WIP, almost got the fronts done, rears will be easier since I am not adding a fender liner). Rear fender flares will extend past the rear quarter panel and drop down an additional 8" or so, supported by the mudflap and a small support I'll fab later.
new horn (triple-bell horn, who knows what it came off of, but when I had it on my truck before, it sure got people outta my way!). It's going to be mounted under the driver's seat area, between the rocker bar and frame. Will post pics of this too
fresh rebuilt transfer case with 4.24:1 gearset, courtesy of Trail Tough, and a twin stick shifter from Rock4x. This is the biggest thing I am looking forward to. Twin stick will give me 2LO and a true neutral for flat tows. 4:1 will be simply amazing for crawling along the trails this hunting season.
bumpin' stereo. The Xplod deck and 5-1/4" rear speakers that came with the car are good, I upgraded the front 4" to Xplod 4" last year, it all sounds great, I can hear it on the freeway with the windows down at 70mph, but it completely lacks bass...so I stuck with the Xplod name brand and got a slimline amp (XM-1S), and a slimline 10" subwoofer in a box already set up (XS-LB10S) and will set it behind my rear seats, keeping it covered up with a blanket or something so it's not visible from the outside. Probably hide the amp inside the rear quarters and mount it on some rubber blocks to isolate vibrations.
It will sound better inside, the fender stuff and mudflaps will keep it cleaner, the engine stuff will eliminate leaks (I hope), the clutch will improve drivability, and the gearing will take it anywhere I want it to.
If I have time, I will round up the parts for my front sway bar disconnects. I've already got them planned out, but just have to gather parts. Might take a whole day of calling around and driving to pick up parts. But, it'll be worth it to have them.
After hunting season it will get some black paint below the windows to cover up the flaking white, and an urban-camo theme overlay on the bottom half (like two-tone) to cover up where some previous owner stripped the old plastic strips off. Those two things alone will make it look 10x better by covering the worst areas of paint on the car.
Then I will see about a rear locker. I would love to go with the KAM kit but I don't know how much longer I shall have to wait to see it for sale...
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IT RUNS!!!
...I must be doing SOMEthing right :laugh:
Filled my gearboxes with gear oil and changed the oil filter and put oil in the engine...no problems, started right up after sitting since June...not bad at all. Drove it around and it is like a completely new car. The clutch was acting up since I bought it. I've gone from a burnt-up 7-7/8" clutch to a 8.5" new clutch kit and resurfaced flywheel, so yes, it did make a huge difference. Now when I give it gas it actually GOES when I want it to instead of revving up and slipping. Shifting up and down are both easier.
I had screwed something up in the tranny shifter mechanism but I got it figured out after a few tries and taking it apart to look at it. I had that little bushing upside down that the shifter ball slips down into.
I made my own redneck engineering piece of rubber to cover up the hole in the floor where the old transfer case shifter went...until I get the right boot in the truck.
The low gear is ridiculously low. Almost too low (if there is such a thing). Running 2nd gear in low range seems to be a good pace for "road hunting".
Twin stick is awesome. Scott at Rock4x must have designed those just right, because when you put it in low gear, that shifter barely touches the plastic of the tranny hump console. Talk about a tight fit! And when in high gear it barely misses my trans shifter handle in reverse.
Here's a thought: someone mentioned to me that since the t-case has new gears, I should replace the fluid after 500-1,000 miles. Kind of like breaking in an engine. There's new gears meshing against each other and will have some initial wear patterns. I thought it was a good idea but then I thought why hasn't anyone else running these gears mentioned anything about that? And even the gear company, Trail Tough, never mentioned it. I may just do it but wondering why it's not something anyone would have mentioned before.
Your thoughts?
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Sure can't hurt anything. But your wallet.
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Eh, gear oil is cheap. 15 bucks for another gallon is reasonable when asking for peace of mind.
Gettin geared up to go hunting/camping this weekend. I was driving it on the freeway ranging from 65 to 70 mph today for about 15 minutes, and all is well so I'm happy.
I'm doing schoolwork right now (well, once I'm done with this post), and going to try to get my rear fender flares done tonight so I can keep the dirt off it, and post pics when that project is done. And try to put my skidplates back up since there's no leaks presenting themselves anywhere.
Picked up a Dana 300 twin stick boot today, it looks like it will work great on my interior. I'll post pics of this too when finished.
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Hey this is Mike the guy that got your old skid plates about a year ago. I am looking at picking up a 90 tintop also but i think its 2 wheel drive but i can take all my 4x4 stuff off mine. If i get it i will bug you for some info on fixing it up.
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hey good to hear from you mike, wondering when I was gonna see you on here.
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I have been on here for awhile but dont post much
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Eh, gear oil is cheap. 15 bucks for another gallon is reasonable when asking for peace of mind...
When you installed the gears, didn't you have to clearance the inside of the case? If so, it is a good idea to drain and replace the oil after driving a hundred miles or so to get any shavings out that may have not been flushed out during the install. I know I cleaned out every tiny bit of shavings I had, and still had some in the oil when I drained it after the install.
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...
And with the new tires (30x9.50R15) and stock gears, 5.125:1, thiis how I was running at 55 and 65
([url]http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu301/djlantis57/1990%20Geo%20Tracker/IMG00042.jpg[/url])
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Have you adjusted your speedo for the larger tires? I am running 30x9.50x15 BFG AT KO's on my 96 4 door and my speedo is reading about 10% low. At 65, my GPS is a tick above 70 mph.
Great job on the build. I'm working my way through a similar build, but at a slower pace.
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No adjustments. Just the mental adjustment (remembering it is +/- 10% under) ;)
When I was going 70 on the highway I suddenly realized that actually means 77mph...don't wish to risk going any faster.
Don't these speedos register a little over when stock, anyways? So it's probably not as far off as I think?
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My '96 reads nearly exact (via radar) with 235/75r15's on it, so yes they tend to read fast with stock tires.
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My '96 reads nearly exact (via radar) with 235/75r15's on it, so yes they tend to read fast with stock tires.
I know before I put on the 30's and it had the 235s on it when I first bought it, it was pretty much dead-on whenever I drove by any of those radar speed-checkers like they post in front of schools around here. It's probably off by just a little but I'm still conscious of my speed. I figure staying just below the speed limit on my speedo puts me right about at the speed limit...never had trouble from the :police: but keeping my fingers crossed. At least fender flares and mudflaps keeps me legal in that regard, one less reason to be pulled over...hey I still have to post pics of that!
If you don't see the pics soon someone remind me.
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At least fender flares and mudflaps keeps me legal in that regard, one less reason to be pulled over...hey I still have to post pics of that!
If you don't see the pics soon someone remind me.
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/fender-flares-with-mudflaps-on-tracker/ (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/fender-flares-with-mudflaps-on-tracker/)
;D
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dj, your ride is always full of ideas, keep going on it bro.
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do anything new? Where did you get your CB antana mount from?
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do anything new? Where did you get your CB antana mount from?
Here in Fresno called Red Monkey. If you don't know where they are, it's kinda tricky to describe but they're west of Golden State north of Shaw ave.
The mount is Firestik brand, I just dug up my receipt in my "Tracker file" and their invoice calls it a "hatch back mount #FSSS204."
I just now typed in "SS204" on Google and discovered that's the part number.
Works real well, it perfectly misses the door when in the closed position. I couldn't have asked for a better setup.
I have two pictures here:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/1990-tracker-tintop-build/msg211214/#msg211214 (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/1990-tracker-tintop-build/msg211214/#msg211214)
I notched the taillight opening and added a grommet to protect the coax, ran it inside the rear fender behind the interior paneling, shoved an electrical fishtape through the rocker panel and have it routed out of a factory wire grommet under the dash on the left side. Behind the four bolts holding the bracket on are fiber-lock nuts, and also a metal plate about 1"x1" with four holes drilled to tie everything together on the backside and act like a really big washer for all four bolts. Pretty damn stout. Driven it everywhere and haven't had it cause problems (only a rattle, but that's the rattle from the quick-release I have on it).
Just a tip: I had the L-shaped part of the bracket (where the antenna actually mounts) flipped to make it an extra inch taller...but that was too much leverage, no matter how much I tightened the allen set screws the damn thing would rotate. The way it is now (see pics) is 1" lower than I wanted, but it does not budge at all
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How did you mount the front plate on the TT bumper.
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How did you mount the front plate on the TT bumper.
Dang thanks for reviving my thread. Lost track of time lately...just remembered I still have to post a thread on how I did my rear air bags.
What plate are you referring to?
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The licence plate
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The licence plate
Never had a front plate when I bought it almost three years ago. Haven't bothered the DMV since to get a new set either.
I haven't had any hassle about it either *knock on wood*