ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: Jeremiah on March 06, 2009, 10:31:29 AM
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Here's a free, quick & easy mod anyone can do to unlock some power from the 1.6 hamster powered engine. The stock intake does three things very well:
* Cold air intake charge
* Protects the intake charge from sucking in water
* Reducing intake "noise" for a quiet ride
Suzuki engineers accomplished this by moving the intake between the firewall, and the fender on driver's side. This means a longer intake run, a hand full of extra twists & bends, and the intake horn is too narrow:
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Auto/Air%20box%20mod/100_0006.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Auto/Air%20box%20mod/100_0022.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Auto/Air%20box%20mod/100_0023.jpg)
To bypass the restrictive system, remove this 10mm bolt, and pull the piping between the air box & fender. It's best to follow up by removing the battery terminals, and touching them together for 60 seconds. This re-sets the computer, and tells it to re-learn it's fuel curve. The computer should automagically do this every few hundred miles, but this process ensures it gets done.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Auto/Air%20box%20mod/100_0010.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Auto/Air%20box%20mod/100_0006.jpg)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i246/Jeremiah_Junkins/Auto/Air%20box%20mod/100_0007.jpg)
I expected better top-end acceleration, but I was shocked by my seat of the pants dyno: I instantly noticed smoother acceleration throughout the power band. Acceleration was much smoother off-idle: a pleasant surprise. Additional intake noise is only noticeable during wide open throttle (to me, the best of both worlds: quiet normal driving & manly hard-acceleration sounds). This is technically going from a CAI to a warmer intake charge, but because the piping is so restrictive, this mod still improves power. My guess is the engine will be slightly more susceptible to sucking in water during water crossings. I don't go in water that's taller than my tiers, so my intake will be well above the water line.c
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Why not a $50 "CAI" (really, it's a short ram, not CAI) with K&N from eBay?
1) This is free
2) I'm not convinced it's any better (or at least $50 better) than the K&N
3) It's 100% SMOG legal
4) http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=58&Itemid=66 (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=58&Itemid=66)
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nice post
man, thats a restrictive stock intake
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Nice mod but I wouldn't touch the battery terminals together. The electronics has a bunch of electrolytic capacitors on the supplies and they don't like to be discharged too quickly.
When I fitted my snorkel I was surprised at the complexity of the intake piping. You can get the pipework out without removing the wing.
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Nice mod but I wouldn't touch the battery terminals together. The electronics has a bunch of electrolytic capacitors on the supplies and they don't like to be discharged too quickly.
When I fitted my snorkel I was surprised at the complexity of the intake piping. You can get the pipework out without removing the wing.
With sincere respect, I think that there's a problem with touching your positive and negative leads together to 'drain' the system to reset the ECM.
For what it's worth, Eric
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I've read this in instructions before for both intake and exhaust upgrades (though, for other makes & models). Using a jumper, or forcing capacitor drains to clear memory settings is very common practice in electronics (My PC tech & telecommunications engineering experience add up to over a decade now). A friend of mine's a Certified mechanic at my local VW dealership - he's told me it's common practice to do this battery terminal shorting to reset the computer.
That said... you guys have me second guessing myself. I've Googled variations of "Suzuku ECM reset procedure" and now I'm even more confused about the "proper" procedure. But, it seems every manufacturer has a procedure for this (and mention it's something that should be done after virtually all engine modifications). So, it leads me to believe something that should be done - I'm just not so confident on how it should be done. Is there anything you've read that leads you to believe the terminal touching method is dangerous on a Suzuki? Anyone know the right procedure?
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I might have to do this to my 16v Sidekick, cuz it's just about as slow as my 8v.
I was getting a CEL in my 8v, I cleared it by removing the ground for a good minute.
Going out to do that right now!
Acually! I think I might build a snorkel inside the cab after I do that.
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I did this and it wasn't that noticable. Maybe something happened between the last time you reset the computer and now, that made it run worse than it should, and resetting it made it adjust to the difference?
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Is there anything you've read that leads you to believe the terminal touching method is dangerous on a Suzuki? Anyone know the right procedure?
Discharging the electrolytics too quickly can stress the dielectric in the caps, shortening their life expectancy. The instant discharge can greatly exceed the ripple current rating of the capacitors. You only need to disconnect the battery. The ECU will drain some of the the charge because it always draws some current in standby mode, other accessories like the clock will also take current. FWIW I have been an electronics designer for over 10 yrs, befor going to uni I was an electronics tech.
I've spent some time reverse engineering the ECUs in Suzukis. On OBD ECUs the ECU maintains a flag in memory that tells it if the RAM has been written, when the standby power is drained that flag is cleared. On boot up it then rewrites default values to the RAM. Also it automatically clears the flag if it detects a major hardware fault and then reboots itself (clicky relay syndrome). OBD2 ECUs can be cleared using a scanner.
The main reason for clearing RAM is to reset the long term and short term fuel trim values as well as clearing any stored codes.
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I just take the terminal off and turn the key on. It safely drains everything out.
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I did this and it wasn't that noticable. Maybe something happened between the last time you reset the computer and now, that made it run worse than it should, and resetting it made it adjust to the difference?
I didn't reset my ECU. It didn't turn my 1.6L into a mustang-eating HP monster, but it's noticeably smoother and quicker-responding to throttle input. I just did it to my '94 2-door, and noticed similar results. I was too lazy to reset the ECU on this one too (and hate re-setting all my radio stations), since it'll do it on it's own in a tank of gas or two, I'm not sweating it. I suspect everyone's mileage will vary with this mod. The good news is it's one 10mm bolt, and sixty seconds to reverse the mod if it doesn't work for you.
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I took all that junk off long ago!! =)
And I'm currently working on a brand new design for a snorkel. Trying to fab up my own box for it that will be near the roof line. I hate those bulky plastic ones....
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I had no idea there was that much junk under the fender. I think suzuki did a good job designing it for the original plans of the car. Here is my poor mans version (cost $25). It really sucks air! not so good in mud and water though. I still need to make a shield for it. Instant (small) notice in power and 3% better mpg on the first tank.
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I had no idea there was that much junk under the fender. I think suzuki did a good job designing it for the original plans of the car. Here is my poor mans version (cost $25). It really sucks air! not so good in mud and water though. I still need to make a shield for it. Instant (small) notice in power and 3% better mpg on the first tank.
3% better mpg when the thing gets around 23mpg... so thats a 0.7 mpg + ???
i guess thats about right when i did it almost 10 years ago
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Hey 3% is 3%
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so i dont need to cover or protect that open intake now?
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question, what is the box that the ducting goes to after the filter at the back of the fender right before the door?
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question, what is the box that the ducting goes to after the filter at the back of the fender right before the door?
Water trap