ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: hillbillydeluxe4x4 on January 01, 2009, 06:51:09 PM
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hey everyone. i bought the tracker i was talkin bout. i have to say i absolutly love this thing. i do have a few questions bout it though. some are probably frequent or common but im sorry im new to this.
the first one actually pertains to the top. its a hard top, and i dont beleive thefront part is correct. it doesnt clip on properly, it actually tried to take flight a few times, and succeeded today, but was unharmed. it doesnt seal correctly, and moves around alot. my mother also has one but it fits perfectly and looks the same underneath but diffrent externally. if can get pictures i will.
i was alsowonderingif its true that 235/75/r15s will fit with no rub, cause it could use some new tires. im looking at the pep boys m/t s i can get them in that size and they will fit. i think i seen that sombody had those in there little sig deal. they any good?
other than that i gotta finnd a rear seat any ideas? thank in advance sorry bout the pesky newbie questions.
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samurai rear seat should work. although you can make any seat work with a little planning.
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235 75 R15's fit my girlfriends 99 Tracker without rubbing.
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sorry havent stopped back here too much lately. i figured out what im gonna do for seats in the back i think. i think im gonna buy some high back adjustble equipment seats from tractor supply and use them. if 235s will fit im gonna shoot for them as soon as i get my income tax. cause i got little p205s now and they definatly dont handle mud or snow well. cant wait to lift this thing to, cause they get hung up in ruts pretty bad apparently,lol.
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Using my coil spacer lift you can get 245/75's under it. Just putting it out there.
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your the guy that sells em on ebay right, i think. i like what you got up there, and i see you offer a 2 inch kit, is there any issues with cv angles and what not with that? cause it definatly caught my attention, and you may have a future customer.
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i was alsowonderingif its true that 235/75/r15s will fit with no rub, cause it could use some new tires. im looking at the pep boys m/t s i can get them in that size and they will fit. i think i seen that sombody had those in there little sig deal. they any good/
I don't know who that could be ::)
And yes, they're awesome. Any tire you get will be a compromise between on and off street, as well as different off-road conditions (snow, mud, rock, sand....). I think the Dakota M/T's are the perfect blend between all these areas. Because I love mud, I got them - if you don't plan on running in mud, then an all terrain tire (instead of mud terrain) might be better for you (and Dakota has a good A/T as well). You may have some frame rub lock to lock, but it will be very little. For another $200, you can go with Jeff's spacer lift and have a very capable DD / weekend warrior.
For more info on the tires, search using my name and "Dakota" - and you'll see the thread on my lift & tires.
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yeah im definatly a mud guy. im new to the zuki stuff, but not to new to the off road world. i normally am into fullsize ford but, ive been driving the traker for about a week now and its just plain more fun, and im not getting 9 miles to the gallon lol. my old f250 was alotta fun till the frame let go. i had a mild lift in that, actually a leveling kit, and 245/70/r16 mtr's that i got used but almost new for no joke 80 bucks mounted and balanced and loved them other than they loaded up bad in sticky mud. if the dakotas are good then i think they are good deal from what ive heard, aliittle rub isnt a big deal to me, i just dont wanna be cuttin em up on the fenders. as far as comprimise goes, im the type of person that if there is a dirt road that leads to my destination and paved, i take pick the dirt every time,find more spots to wheel that way lol. thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.
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your the guy that sells em on ebay right, i think. i like what you got up there, and i see you offer a 2 inch kit, is there any issues with cv angles and what not with that? cause it definatly caught my attention, and you may have a future customer.
jeffs spacers will keep your cv's at a safe angle, good products, and prices.
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http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=20578.0 (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=20578.0)
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well now i have plan for tires and alittle lift that hopfully prevent me from gettin hooked up to a yota again. thanks. i got anther question though, my front inner wheel wells have some rot in the edges where the well meets the body structure, does dramatically reduce the structural integrety of these things? i have this thing about rot and structure since i snappped the frame rail on that ford. i put close to 1500 in parts in it 2 weeks before it happened so im more cautious now, if it should be repaired for strength ill have my brother weld in some patches. i plan on repairing it, but is it somthin that i should do immiedietly? thanks again
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The quicker you stop rust, the better. But, as long as the frame & areas where the body mount to the frame are good, the structure should be okay.
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its outta north carolina, and the frame looks like its brand new. the body on has rust in areas where moisture wouldve collected it seems. the last year punched on the inspection sticker for nc, is 05. and it was never registered here in ct, so im sure it sat somwheres for a while. i was worried more less about the strut causing it to come apart.
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Hillbilly, I went up to 235/75/15 with Jeff's spacers and it's been working great. (I have no concept of time as I get older, but I guess it's been about a year. Maybe more.)
Has anyone posted a link to the thread with pictures about flipping those front strut mounts? I'll try to look for it in a second.
I put the Crown Victoria rear shocks on mine (you have to replace the stock shocks with longer ones), but there was a mistake in the instructions about the mounting bolts and holes as it concerned my vehicle:
You're supposed to keep the OLD inset nuts/sleeves (don't know what else to call them) that sit in the holes of the old shock, because otherwise, the old bolt is too narrow for the NEW shock, and it would rattle around a little. And the NEW bolts that come with the new shock are too wide to fit into the existing mounting holes in the truck--and there's like zero margin for error allowing you to expand the existing holes.
I'm trying to remember EXACTLY what happened with mine, but I think that the old sleeves/insets were actually too BIG for the new shock hole and there was no way you could bang them in there. Fortunately, my mechanic had something on hand that did the trick.
I seem to be the only one that had this problem, so maybe it's a weird thing with my particular year, and the fact that mine's Canadian-made.
Anyway, it's not that big a job at all, but that's easy for me to see since I had someone ELSE do it. (I'm spastic.) Took him about 2 hours, and the hardest part for me was finding the right bolts to replace the old ones in the front strut mounts, and for my mechanic to cut and punch out these old bolts. Yeah, playing with springs and spring spacers is no picnic either, but everyone eventually gets it done.
Finally, you'll still get a rub when you hammer it 100% left or right, but in a vehicle this small, you hardly ever have to do that!
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i been lookin around the forum posts a little an read about the flipping the strut mount and the crown vic shocks somwheres. didnt see nothin on the shock bolts though so thank you
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Yes I'm the guy from ebay. Most guys including myself run 1.5" coil and 1.5" strut spacers up front and 2" coil and longer rear shocks. I sell everything but the shocks for $120 shipped to you in US or $130 to Canada. The shocks I reccomend are from a 95 Mustang. If you use the strut spacers you don't have to space the mount, either way the same thing is accomplished.
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well thanks for the info. that will probably be the route i go, unless i hit the lotto and can jump to big lift. but that wont happen lol. im sorry i have so many questions, like i said though, i never once had an interest in these things until recently and now i love em, but know absolutly zero about em. which leads me to the next thing cause this is gonna be an either or situation. my 93 has some miles, i think i said it bunch of times already. it seems to have pretty good power but sounds like its tickin an awful lot. what im gettin at is, will it hold up to bigger tires and off road action or will it wear out and get tired real quick because of the extra strain. i dont wanna lose this thing haha. so im almost thinkin it might be better to focus on the rust/rot and maybe swap a low mileage 16valve if its a bolt in plug and play, havent researched it yet. im just trying to plan ahead so i can enjoy this thing for as many years as possible.
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Do what you should do with every new-to-you vehicle, and ESPECIALLY a vehicle that might me taking you far off the beaten path. Get a manual (FSM, or Chilton) and go through the vehicle from one end to the other. Replace all fluids (oil, coolant, breaks, diff, t-case, trans etc), do a full tuneup (that includes timing belt & valve adjustment) and go through the whole emissions chapter (which will direct you on how to test most of the parts that could be worn out and cause engine problems). Follow the black wire off your battery, and check where they connect - are the grounds clean? If not - clean them.
Before you change your engine oil, run Automatic Transmission Fluid in it for about 1/2 a tank of gas - ATF his a super-high detergent package, and is the cheapest / safest / best way to flush that old oil out. DO NOT use ANY, NONE, ZIP oil additives after doing your oil change (until you're ready to flush the engine just before your next oil change again). Flushing an engine for a few miles = okay, running oil additives for 3000+ miles is bad (it throws the balance of the detergent package off too much for too long, and will eventually make bad things happen in your engine).
Jeff's spacers are by far the most bang-for-your-buck lift out there. A 1/5 or 2" lift for $200? Can't beat that. Stay with 29" tires - don't go bigger - you'll thank me later.
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know to go through all that. i gotta find a manual though. i did do a basic tune up, cap rotor,wires, and plugs. i actually found that i had been driving it with the firing order screwed up and i just thought thats how it was till i did the tune up, big difference in power. i havent done the whole fluid change deal cause the weather here in ct hasnt been to friendly. is the timing belt fairly simple on these. ive never done anything timing wise on anything but small block chevys. well thats a dumb question cause if i get a manual itll tell me. i also get very nervous when it comes to my vehicles cause i get very attached to them quickly, lol, sounds wierd maybe, and my fiance and family hate it but, im trying to prove em wrong that this one isnt some pile thats gonna be waste of time and money.
i have to agree that by the look of it that jeffs lift is good bang for the buck. ive looked at the calmini,zukination,rocky road, bds, all of em i think. they all are just outta my price range right now and just probably overkill for what i really need right now.
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The big thing with the timing belt is to NOT try to take off the bolt in the middle (attaching to the crank). There's 4 smaller bolts that will allow you to remove the balancer (feel around in there, you'll find 'em). DO NOT use an impact wrench. What can happen if you do it the wrong way is to damage the keyway - and that causes bad things. Google "Ack's FAQ" and then search for "timing belt" there. In fact - spend some time on that FAQ site, it's the most comprehensive Suzuki FAQ out there. He even has some of the FSM on there. Once you do a full tunup as described, you'll notice your Suzuki will be happy with you, and it will reward you with many miles of good smooth service.
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thanks man i needed that little bit of reassurance.
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You can grab the FSM off of Acks Faq (http://www.acksfaq.com) and it has a walk through on changing the timing belt on the 16v.
Not that you need much of one, but it does warn you against tightening down the bolt on the idler pully. Which my other instructions did not...
Oh, and change your front seal while your in there. It sucks when those blow out.
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that acks faq bsight is just what i need i think, i checked it out they got everything on there
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It covers 90% of the stuff out there... which is why it's call FAQ ;)
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hey hillbilly deluxe where in CT are you from ?
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gaylordsville. part of new milford sorta, right down the road from kent.