ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: ZLove4Life on December 02, 2007, 02:46:03 PM
-
My Tracker 4x4 (1.6L 16V) died on me while driving, and I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump (the engine is getting no fuel delivery and all the fuses/relays seem fine). However, I've never done work on the fuel system of the Tracker before. So can someone tell me what's involved in replacing the pump on these cars? On my 300ZX, it's nice and easy - remove some interior panels and it's right there - but I don't expect it'll be the same on the Tracker. I searched, but tended to only find results with aftermarket external installations, and I've already bought the replacement. Thanks in advance for any input.
-
You have to drop the gas tank,as the fuel pump is mounted in the top of the tank.It is pretty easy,so don't let it intimidate you.Just make sure you can get all of the fuel out of it that you can.It makes it easier,and you don't lose gas.
The skid plate,if it has one will also need to be removed.
-
That's kinda what I was afraid of - I have a feeling everything is gonna be seized and rusty. But thank you very much, that's the exact kind of info that I needed.
-
Before you jump into dissasembly I would run a hot wire to the fuel pump to confirm that it is not running.
-
Could be a bad ground behind one of your tail lights also that is where it grounds.
-
Thanks for the heads up - I'll give those a shot when I'm working on it.
-
To help with rusted or stuck bolts apply a generous shot of penetrating oil and wait a while.I usually do this 2 or 3 times to allow it to do all it can.I prefer PB Blaster for penetrating oil.
-
It can be even easier than that: On my old Gwendolyne (my kick) the tank screws where so rusted than i wasn't able to remove them. So i just cut the floor (with metalsheet sissors) directly on top of the tank and replace the pump without having to move the tank.
The best part of it: I was able to do it from the interior of the truck (it must be about a zillion degrees under zero around here these days!) :'(
Even better: Since a part of the floor was now removed i replaced it by a much nicer looking steel plate. :laugh: And now, if any servicing is nessessary, I just have to remove the plating to have access to pump, sensor wires, etc.
-
I'm having a "now, why didn't I think of that" moment.
-
It can be even easier than that: On my old Gwendolyne (my kick) the tank screws where so rusted than i wasn't able to remove them. So i just cut the floor (with metalsheet sissors) directly on top of the tank and replace the pump without having to move the tank.
The best part of it: I was able to do it from the interior of the truck (it must be about a zillion degrees under zero around here these days!) :'(
Even better: Since a part of the floor was now removed i replaced it by a much nicer looking steel plate. :laugh: And now, if any servicing is nessessary, I just have to remove the plating to have access to pump, sensor wires, etc.
You know, I was actually wondering if that were possible. That might be the route I take, because I JUST filled the tank and would rather not deal with dropping it if I don't have to. And I'm all about making future service easier.
Any advice on where I'd be cutting? Or will that be obvious when I'm actually working on it (we've had snow the past 2 days and I haven't been able to get it into the garage yet)?
-
Since i was afraid of cutting something underneat the floor (wires, fuel lines, ...) i was actually overcaring. I cut thru the floor using only manual tools (scissors and small metal saw). After the rear part of the floor was removed, i discovered than there's absolutly nothing there! :-[
So, you can use an electric jigsaw to cut it. Anyway, the pump wires and fuel lines are all in the middle section of the floor so even if your blade is a little long you cannot touch them by cutting the perimeter. Just be careful on the rear part (alongside the rear "marchepied" how do you say that in english? You know, that black step where you put your foot to go inside the car ??? ) since the pump is located completely at the back.
-
:::sigh:::
It's electrical. Jumped the fuel pump directly from the battery and it worked fine. It is not the ground behind the tail light, it's the power wire from the relay. The relay is fine (swapped with another relay), so we narrowed it down to a short somewhere when we realized that the FI fuse was blown and continues to blow every time we turn the car on. So I get to spend tomorrow chasing that down... and if I can't get it tomorrow, I'm done with the car. I NEED a reliable winter vehicle (the Twin Turbo Z doesn't handle snow well), and if this won't be it, then I'll find something that will be.
-
:::sigh:::
It's electrical. Jumped the fuel pump directly from the battery and it worked fine. It is not the ground behind the tail light, it's the power wire from the relay. The relay is fine (swapped with another relay), so we narrowed it down to a short somewhere when we realized that the FI fuse was blown and continues to blow every time we turn the car on. So I get to spend tomorrow chasing that down... and if I can't get it tomorrow, I'm done with the car. I NEED a reliable winter vehicle (the Twin Turbo Z doesn't handle snow well), and if this won't be it, then I'll find something that will be.
My first TRACKER had the same problem. I just ran a wire from a 12 volt source to a toggle switch then to the pump, The only issue I had with mine was I didn't use a "switched" 12 volt source, and forgot to turn the pump off a few times..LOL..
-
The pumps do go bad and they will blow fuse's when they go, don't bypass the fuse you would be in for some trouble.
-
Just run a new line from the relay to the pump if you still pop fuses the pump is bad. If it doesn't you have fixed it.
-
I considered running a wire to the pump, but even when the pump was disconnected, the FI fuse was still blowing, so the injectors wouldn't have fired. After a total of 9 hours of work between fuel pump (rusted bolts snapping off, drilling/tapping new holes, cutting the floor to access the pump without dropping the tank entirely) and searching for electrical gremlns, it took one of my friends 5 seconds to find the problem.
He had us put a new fuse in and turn the key while he listened under the hood. The fuse blew, expectedly, and he heard a click come from a sensor in the bay... the one with the Mitsubishi logo on top of it at the front of the engine (by the coolant temp sensor). He disconnected it... it fired right up. The short was coming from inside the sensor.
Here's the frustrating part, last month when I replaced the water pump, I remember disconnecting that sensor and cleaning it because there was this tar-like goo inside it. A month later, the connector that I cleaned is the cause of an electrical short.
So she's all done, but I can't reconnect that sensor without blowing the FI fuse. (Anybody know what that sensor is so I can replace it? Seems like an emissions-related sensor, which would explain its involvement in the FI circuit.) This post was for the purpose of anyone searching for electrical causes to fuel system failure in the future, as well as to let everyone know that it's resolved.
-
thats the purge solenoid for the evap system....thanks for this post...im having these issues too....and i also hear the click from under my hood.....this is crazy...i drove it about 3 hours before and it fired, now it just cranks, and the fuel pump doesnt come on.....