ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Riddick on November 28, 2007, 03:43:07 AM
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What are the best spark plugs to use for the 1996 Tracker?
Care more about performance than MPG..
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I just use stock replacements. I don't think spark plugs alone will make any noticeable difference performance wise. And most of the "exotic" spark plugs out there, are just hype, from what I have heard.
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Yes I agree use some quality stock ones the price you pay for expensive upgrades just doesnt get you enough at the pump. regular tuneups, and drive the rig nicely and your going to get good MPG.
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Try some NGK V-power plugs. But to get the most out of any plug you will need to upgrade the rest of the spark system with some thing like an ignition box from MSD or the like. But even then I do not think you will see much HP improvement from just plugs.
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thanks for the tips
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I have had all the problems with aftermarket ign. systems & can tell you from not only my experiance with being "dead in the water" but many of my customers having engines die miles from anywhere. Don't go MSD, Jacobs.....ect. Not worth the failure. Sure there are a few people out there with aftermarket systems still working & to them I say "Lucky" Only 1 high output ignition system has proven "trail dependable" in my book. Nology! You say you want power & mpg? The Nology system is very simple. Capacitor wrapped wires. Each one. If it were to fail ( never seen one) it is still a good working plug wire. My Toyota truck (4cyl.) & Suzuki 1600 both climb the long grades out of town 2-3 mph faster with Nology & on long trips I getting aprox 1 mpg better. Several of my customers are claiming better. I am only pointing out what I know to be fact but think you should check them out.You may also find it interesting that Nology is the number 1 selling ign. mod. sold in Japan yet made here in Calif/USA. Here is a picture of mine. P.S. Air intake & Headers were on my veh. prior to the Nologys & have there own gains.
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if you are really legit in this endorcement, I'll apologize in advance ...
Wow, does that sound like a marketting pitch ...
Wanna win me over, show some INDEPENDENT dyno runs (and if if mr. marketeer is true, he *should* already have them). Otherwise ... go pimp your crapola on ebay.
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Nothing beats Nology wires,I know as I run them on my honda and they never die.Aftermarket ignitions in my experience have been very reliable.I have run and installed Jacobs and MSD on lots of cars and trucks with only 1 failure.You just have to get the right part for the job.Especially in off roading,which is why both companies offer vibration and shock proof models to handle the abuse.They are however not servicable as the electronics are embeded in epoxy.
Just my opinion.
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show some data .. show some experiences (in zukis).
Or, write mr bewley a check to pimp this crap on his site.
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I apologize if I'm "over the top" on my responses, but I'm so friggin tired of having products hyped as "the best thing" when it's has no PROVEN benefit over stock or even generic.
The last set of plugs I got were NGK "v-power" (or some such) ... but that happened to be the cheapest.
Me thinkin' now I shoulda got the std plugs since they might be better than the "cheap" v-power thingy.
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I apologize if I'm "over the top" on my responses, but I'm so friggin tired of having products hyped as "the best thing" when it's has no PROVEN benefit over stock or even generic.
The last set of plugs I got were NGK "v-power" (or some such) ... but that happened to be the cheapest.
Me thinkin' now I shoulda got the std plugs since they might be better than the "cheap" v-power thingy.
The last set of stock plugs I bought were $1.70 each, IIRC.
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Hey Snowball! A member asked what works & I knew something about it. I gave him a honest answer with as much info as I had. If you want menbers to produce dyno charts isn't that going a little far? I only told what I know from my use of them & the people I know who have them. That's why people ask questions on this forum. If "Riddick" wants dyno charts & so on, he is welcome to check those sites out. This forum is about Suzuki owners input.....just what I gave him.
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Sno didn't mean anything bad, but you have to admit that did sound like an advertisement.
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It also sounded like a bashing of the other aftermarket ignition box's. Sure your nice new MSD box you bought from Joe Blow might die in some hard wheeling but if YOU buy the correct box in the first place, you will have a nice reliable ignition box.
And what do your wires really do in the first place? Just add another layer of wire over the plug wires for protection of the core?
How do your "Capacitor Wrapped Wires" work in the first place? Do they have a box hooked too them? If not, how does the capacitor wires work with no power to charge them? And if they do have a box that charges the wires, what makes that box better than an MSD or equivalent box?
I am curious as everything I have learned is that the ignition supplies the power to the plugs and the plug wires carry that power to the plugs themselves. How can you bypass the ignition system with just a set of plug wires to supply that boost of power? ??? ???
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It also sounded like a bashing of the other aftermarket ignition box's. Sure your nice new MSD box you bought from Joe Blow might die in some hard wheeling but if YOU buy the correct box in the first place, you will have a nice reliable ignition box.
And what do your wires really do in the first place? Just add another layer of wire over the plug wires for protection of the core?
How do your "Capacitor Wrapped Wires" work in the first place? Do they have a box hooked too them? If not, how does the capacitor wires work with no power to charge them? And if they do have a box that charges the wires, what makes that box better than an MSD or equivalent box?
I am curious as everything I have learned is that the ignition supplies the power to the plugs and the plug wires carry that power to the plugs themselves. How can you bypass the ignition system with just a set of plug wires to supply that boost of power? ??? ???
Do they use magic?
I've heard about these nology wires, but since they don't spell the name correctly, I won't buy them.... ;)
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Wow, everybody got all hot over a simple ignition thread. ;)
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capacitors store energy for use during peak demand.The capacitor equiped wires like Nology do the same thing,and increase the spark output to the plug.
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Thank you "kingzoo" I would have taken the time to spell it out but didn't consider others making a big deal out of a subject they apparently are unfamiliar with.As I said "He should check them out"! If someone presented that to me as a possible answer to my form post. I would check out "Nology" if thats what I wanted. Killing the messenger is just plain dumb! Some of us try to give advice on a subject we know something about. I think the internet is a breeding ground for people who want to act like they know something, even if they don't. The best we can do is "1st" help the member with advice/ tips/ deals..... ect. & try to get the same in return. "2nd" call dumb ( im being nice) dumb.
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ok,so now I'm "dumb" ...
But not so much that I'll drop over $100 for some "wires" where I've never seem some evidence that substantiates the claims.
If you are a succa that bought these "wires" then it aint on you to do so. The manufacturer should do this don't ya think?
Show some independent testing that substantiates their claims, and I'll eat crow.
Until then I guess *I* will be the one who is "dumb" (but didn't end up spending the $$$).
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The manufacturer should do this don't ya think?
Show some independent testing that substantiates their claims, and I'll eat crow.
I am just wondering, but did you check out the manufacturers website. I found a lot of documentation there, along with a shit load of testimonials from race teams who use the wires and love them.
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Thank you "kingzoo" I would have taken the time to spell it out but didn't consider others making a big deal out of a subject they apparently are unfamiliar with.As I said "He should check them out"! If someone presented that to me as a possible answer to my form post. I would check out "Nology" if thats what I wanted. Killing the messenger is just plain dumb! Some of us try to give advice on a subject we know something about. I think the internet is a breeding ground for people who want to act like they know something, even if they don't. The best we can do is "1st" help the member with advice/ tips/ deals..... ect. & try to get the same in return. "2nd" call dumb ( im being nice) dumb.
OK guy, can you explain something Nology seems to be unable to do on their site? How do these wires work? I did go check out their site and even if the wires do work as stated it seems like a lot of hype with no technical data to explain how the wires do their job. Like how do the cap's in the wires get their charge? The one drawing I saw showed a grounding wire but nothing more.
And besides, I was defending the MSD style box as you said they will fail in the offroad envirioment. They will if you buy the wrong box, if you buy the correct box a stated before it will last just as long as your fancy wires.
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I guess this thread is similar to deciding whether to buy the $2 oil filter or the $12 filter. People want to know why you should spend 5 or 6 times the price on something, and if it will really make any difference.
I'm going to keep an open mind about these $100 wires, but i feel no desire to go out and buy any.
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Those are not $100 wires, those are in the $160/170 range. And as no one has mentioned, you can only get them for the 8v engines. They do not make their wires for the 16v.
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OK guy, can you explain something Nology seems to be unable to do on their site? How do these wires work?
http://www.nology.com/hotdetail.html
And as no one has mentioned, you can only get them for the 8v engines. They do not make their wires for the 16v.
The part number for the 16V wires is: D4YS
http://www.nology.com/apply.html
For those who are bashing this, I am curious, why are you so angry? You seem quite intent on insisting that these wires don't work without really knowing anything about them and seem unwilling to take the time to learn anything about them. This does not make much sense to me, maybe you could help me out with an explanation?
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Well having read their explanation of how the wires give performance benefits I'm less than impressed. Their claim is that they gave a very short high power spark. This is similar to a Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI). CDI has been around many years and is generally only used on small engines with small combustion chambers. Car manufacturers still favour an ignition system that is pretty much an electronically switched 'points' type system which gives a longer spark duartion. This still seems to give the best performance. Combustion is not a big bang but a carefully controlled burn. The fuel air mixture is turbulent in the chamber and a long spark exposes more of the mixture to the spark. Those manufacturers that have used CDI use a multi-spark system to increase the effective spark duration.
You don't want the spark to ignite the fuel mixture sometime during it's duration, but at a precise moment, namely the recommended ignition timing
This above is probably the least convincing part of their argument. The recommended ignition timing is always degrees before TDC. It is before TDC because it takes some time (very small time!) for the burn to spread and for the pressure in the cylinder to build. The manufacturers recommended timing is calculated and tested so that the burn achieves maximum power without pre-ignition. If their claims of much faster burn were true then the increase in pressure in the early part of the burn would be pushing the piston back down the bore resulting in a power loss and excessive heat.
Manufacturers of conventional ignition systems though, want you to believe that it is possible to increase the power of ignition systems by lengthening the spark duration. This is not true! Lengthening the spark duration actually reduces spark power, as we already know P=W/t (Power=Energy/Time).
I don't think that any manufacturer actually claims this. The claim is that lengthening the spark duration increases the efficiency of the burn, as stated in my first paragraph. In fact inserting a capacitance will cause a loss of power because the capacitor will dissipate power (Xc = 1/(wC)).
Manufacturers have spent billions on improving power and efficiency so you have to assume that they have learnt a thing or two. Does anyone really believe that they've got it all wrong?
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Well having read their explanation of how the wires give performance benefits I'm less than impressed. Their claim is that they gave a very short high power spark. This is similar to a Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI). CDI has been around many years and is generally only used on small engines with small combustion chambers. Car manufacturers still favour an ignition system that is pretty much an electronically switched 'points' type system which gives a longer spark duartion. This still seems to give the best performance. Combustion is not a big bang but a carefully controlled burn. The fuel air mixture is turbulent in the chamber and a long spark exposes more of the mixture to the spark. Those manufacturers that have used CDI use a multi-spark system to increase the effective spark duration.
I agree this is a CDI system for vehicles which don't come with CDI. As for it only being used on small engines (as long as you consider a small block Chevy V8 a small engine) last I looked the engine in lil Suzy was fairly small.
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You don't want the spark to ignite the fuel mixture sometime during it's duration, but at a precise moment, namely the recommended ignition timing
This above is probably the least convincing part of their argument. The recommended ignition timing is always degrees before TDC. It is before TDC because it takes some time (very small time!) for the burn to spread and for the pressure in the cylinder to build. The manufacturers recommended timing is calculated and tested so that the burn achieves maximum power without pre-ignition. If their claims of much faster burn were true then the increase in pressure in the early part of the burn would be pushing the piston back down the bore resulting in a power loss and excessive heat.
They are saying a large spark to ignite the mix is better than a small spark over a longer duration. This may be right or wrong I don't know but it would seem that once the burn starts it would continue on its own at least until cylinder pressure drops or all the oxygen or fuel is used up. As for it causing preignition I would expect that you would want to re-adjust the timing after you have the wires installed.
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Manufacturers of conventional ignition systems though, want you to believe that it is possible to increase the power of ignition systems by lengthening the spark duration. This is not true! Lengthening the spark duration actually reduces spark power, as we already know P=W/t (Power=Energy/Time).
I don't think that any manufacturer actually claims this. The claim is that lengthening the spark duration increases the efficiency of the burn, as stated in my first paragraph. In fact inserting a capacitance will cause a loss of power because the capacitor will dissipate power (Xc = 1/(wC)).
Manufacturers have spent billions on improving power and efficiency so you have to assume that they have learnt a thing or two. Does anyone really believe that they've got it all wrong?
I would have to agree with the statement above, by shortening the spark duration into a short high power discharge you are going to get a more powerful spark.
I also agree that the quote below is probably the best way to go.
Those manufacturers that have used CDI use a multi-spark system to increase the effective spark duration.
I wonder if these wires could be used with a Jacobs or MSD multi spark ignition? That could be a really powerful ignition
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Can someone contact the mythbusters and get them to test these things out, please.
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Can someone contact the mythbusters and get them to test these things out, please.
That is not needed, everyone knows that capacitor discharge ignitions work, single and multi spark CDI ignitions have been around for years. This is just a new way of approaching the idea. Whether or not it is a good idea for anyone's vehicle is really a personal decision.
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I agree this is a CDI system for vehicles which don't come with CDI. As for it only being used on small engines (as long as you consider a small block Chevy V8 a small engine) last I looked the engine in lil Suzy was fairly small.
Over here a Chevy small block is a big engine! CDIs are usually found on smaller capacity motorcycle, boat and industrial engines, particularly mopeds and 2 strokes. On 2 strokes they seem more resistant to plug fouling. I got good gains on my 600cc single cylinder 4 stroke race bike by switching to an Inductive Discharge (conventional) set up.
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I use the high density platinum wrapped translucent wires and gold electrode moonrock tipped plugs. My rig makes 400bhp, and gets 50mpg. NO shit, really.
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OK guy, can you explain something Nology seems to be unable to do on their site? How do these wires work?
[url]http://www.nology.com/hotdetail.html[/url]
For those who are bashing this, I am curious, why are you so angry? You seem quite intent on insisting that these wires don't work without really knowing anything about them and seem unwilling to take the time to learn anything about them. This does not make much sense to me, maybe you could help me out with an explanation?
Ok, again.... How do the dang wires work? All I have read both before and now again is the hype on that page. It still does not explain how the wires gain the charge in the first place. Do you hook them straight to the battery or to the coil or do you have a set of pedals you have to pedal to build the charge? Maybe one of those propeller reciever hitch plugs winds them up?
And I have taken the time to read up on these snake oil wires. Their site seems to be missing some important info.
I have a question for you. You started this by bashing the MSD style box's stating that they all fail. Why?
By the way, how much stock do you own in nology? ::) >:D
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Ok, again.... How do the dang wires work?
A capacitor can be configured so it stores energy until there is a drop in supply voltage, at which point it will discharge the voltage at once.
What I think they are claiming is that when your ignition fires it will charge up the capacitor will the entire voltage of your ignition box. Once the engine is done "firing" the voltage will drop and the capacitor will discharge the entire "charge" at once, theoretically faster then the ignition system can giving you a very fast single spark. I assume this is why you need to advance your timing, to make up for the slight delay added by the capacitors.
This is just what I'm remembering from Electronics all those years ago, so I may be a bit off. :)
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Ok, again.... How do the dang wires work?
A capacitor can be configured so it stores energy until there is a drop in supply voltage, at which point it will discharge the voltage at once.
What I think they are claiming is that when your ignition fires it will charge up the capacitor will the entire voltage of your ignition box. Once the engine is done "firing" the voltage will drop and the capacitor will discharge the entire "charge" at once, theoretically faster then the ignition system can giving you a very fast single spark. I assume this is why you need to advance your timing, to make up for the slight delay added by the capacitors.
This is just what I'm remembering from Electronics all those years ago, so I may be a bit off. :)
OK I have that part figured out. The part I want to know is how the capacitor part of those wires gain their charge. I see on the web site that the wires have a grounding point but no charging point.
How do the cap's get charged?
And another point, you have to charge a cap prior to use. How do you charge it before the spark plug fires? It has to get it's energy from some place, where is that some place?
And another thing, from the drawings I looked at there are no connections to the plug wire from the cap. It is insulated, and most people know that electricity will not flow when it is insulated from any contact. The wires are grounded but that don't mean squat when they have no way of being charged in the first place.
Here is you chance to shine sidekicksrock, sell me on these wires.
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It seems to me that harping after a guy for just giving his opinion in a forum is not how things are done around here. It sets a tone that could make someone reluctant to post a question (or answer). I have had many hours and much money saved thanks to many of the regular posters on this forum and I try to return the favor. It would be nice if we could keep it that way.
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Here is you chance to shine sidekicksrock, sell me on these wires.
I am not trying to sell you anything, I am just trying to figure out why you are so intent on convincing everyone that it doesn't work. I read the site and all the information is there.
The spark plug wires are connected to the spark plugs and the distributor cap.
The technology is real basic, The charge from the coil is captured by the capacitor and stored until the voltage from the coil stops. The current is then released as a higher voltage short duration pulse.
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I'm starting to wish I kept the " helpful tip" to my self. My back ground is not a enginer nor Nology investor. But someone who builds performace off road Toyota truck. Most with 22-re engines. I have installed no less than 200 sets of Nologys ign. systems at my work. How aftermarket stuff works on "MY" motors & feed back from customers who have had them installed is all that matters to me. (And them). I have taken my time to try & help a fellow Suzuki owner on one of the few sites I respect. For some reason Suzuki owners overall haven't "until now" checked Nology out. The system is a natural for us as making more power & m.p.g. are big part of owning a older model 4 cyl. "Yes the lastest models are better in both of these areas". The last thing I tell you about Nology is we take the plug gap from .032 to .040.(As per. Nology). Poss. this is where the gains are. All I can tell you is My X90 is faster "off the line" & about 2 mph faster on long freeway grades I drive every week to the desert. Ya, 2 isn't much unless "I'm passing you!). OH, And for the few who think im trying to "sale or push" a product, I say how can I make $ when not only have I not given you my shops name or info but my web site? Go figure? For the rest of you just check them out if you want as I said (2 pages ago!) Merry Christmas
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The technology is real basic, The charge from the coil is captured by the capacitor and stored until the voltage from the coil stops. The current is then released as a higher voltage short duration pulse.
It has to be more complex than that because the voltage from the coil stops at the end of the spark. The coil is charged at 12V on the primary (coil) side. When the current source is diconnected the magnetic field collapses and a voltage builds on both sides of the coil. On the secondary (plug) side the energy has no where to go so it builds until there is sufficient energy to overcome the spark plug gap. Once the spark is formed it takes less energy to maintain it and it will continue until there isn't enough energy left in the coil to sustain the spark.
The patent for the nology wires can be read here:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6559376.html
So the capacitor will charge as the energy builds across the coil. Once the spark is formed there is a drop in voltage and the capacitor will discharge. The maximum voltage across the plug is determined by the spark plug gap, cylinder temperature and pressure and a few other parameters. Even if the capacitor were to discharge quickly, the spark should still be maintained until the coil has discharged so the spark duration wouldn't be shorter.
The control of the spark is apparently achieved by the ratio of the resitance between the coil and the capacitor and the capacitor and the plug.
Its an interesting concept but I still don't see how it could work.
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I'm starting to wish I kept the " helpful tip" to my self. My back ground is not a enginer nor Nology investor. But someone who builds performace off road Toyota truck. Most with 22-re engines. I have installed no less than 200 sets of Nologys ign. systems at my work. How aftermarket stuff works on "MY" motors & feed back from customers who have had them installed is all that matters to me. (And them). I have taken my time to try & help a fellow Suzuki owner on one of the few sites I respect. For some reason Suzuki owners overall haven't "until now" checked Nology out. The system is a natural for us as making more power & m.p.g. are big part of owning a older model 4 cyl. "Yes the lastest models are better in both of these areas". The last thing I tell you about Nology is we take the plug gap from .032 to .040.(As per. Nology). Poss. this is where the gains are. All I can tell you is My X90 is faster "off the line" & about 2 mph faster on long freeway grades I drive every week to the desert. Ya, 2 isn't much unless "I'm passing you!). OH, And for the few who think im trying to "sale or push" a product, I say how can I make $ when not only have I not given you my shops name or info but my web site? Go figure? For the rest of you just check them out if you want as I said (2 pages ago!) Merry Christmas
As an engineer I won't say something doesn't work until I've seen some proper independant tests. I will say that I don't see how these can work. Have you got an ignition oscilloscope in your shop? It would be interesting to see some traces from the high voltage side. Conventional v Nology. Increasing the gap from 32 to 40 will give a higher plug voltage anyway - if the stock coil is capable of providing enough power. It is a big increase for a stock coil though.
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As an engineer I won't say something doesn't work until I've seen some proper independant tests. I will say that I don't see how these can work. Have you got an ignition oscilloscope in your shop? It would be interesting to see some traces from the high voltage side. Conventional v Nology. Increasing the gap from 32 to 40 will give a higher plug voltage anyway - if the stock coil is capable of providing enough power. It is a big increase for a stock coil though.
I'm not sure if it would work, but the idea is interesting. The amount of power in the spark isn't changing at all, it is just compressed into a shorter time period. A lot of the power difference probably has to do with the engine design. Heck, you wouldn't think that a Throttle Body spacer would work, but they do.
I suppose it comes down to what you think works best for a spark. Long burn or short and hot...
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wow... this thread is still goin?!
sheeesh, could use some of you guys by the water cooler! ;D
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Ya, this thread sounds like it should be on Pirate bbs :laugh:
I've seen Toy yoda's shop and I know that he's legit.
Kevin
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wow... this thread is still goin?!
I tried to quite... but I keep coming back. I need some help... so cold... :P
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Ya, this thread sounds like it should be on Pirate bbs :laugh:
I've seen Toy yoda's shop and I know that he's legit.
Kevin
There's actually this thread at pirate http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=595113 that
it is pretty much the same concept ... (pulstar does it with plugs not wires).
I'm not saying ToyYoda is "wrong" ... and if he's selling these things to 200 odd people he's a good business person.
Just that I won't buy until I see somthing that *indepentently* shows me some results worth the $170.
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My last post on this thread...
I have to ask again, how do the cap's around the wires gain their charge? They need to be charged to provide the power they provide. Where's that power coming from? I stated that the nology site shows a drawing of their wires with a ground strap but I have yet too see a power lead or an explanation of how the cap's get their power/charge. And why do they need a ground strap when they have no power input?
And as the cap's are around the insulation of the plug wire, how does the voltage from the cap get to the plug in the first place?
And toyoda, you really did start all of this commotion with the statement that the MSD style box's fail in the offroad environment and went on to sell those wires.
I really do not care one way or the other, but I would still like to see how the wires work. The nology site does not explain how their own product works (just the hype of the added power that they keep throwing out) so I am looking for that info here now that you brought them up.
And after reading my post before posting it I have another question. Why have a ground strap when you have no positive input to the cap's around the wires in the first place???
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OK Phloop, The spark plug wire is connected to the distributor cap where it gets its charge from the coil. The voltage goes into the capacitor where it builds until it is released to the plug in a single short burst. The reason for the ground wire is because that is how capacitors work. In order to drain them, in this case across the spark plug gap you need a closed circuit thus the ground wire from the negative side of the capacitor.
Now for those here smarter than I, I spent some time today doing a little Internet research to try and get a good handle on this so I could explain it. A couple of things I am not clear on:
1st as the coil voltage is building in the capacitor what is actually increasing? The capacitor will continue to store voltage until it is equalized with the voltage source in this case the coil so 30-40,000 volts. But would the amperage increase over a stock induction ignition?
2nd what would be used to trigger the discharge? Would the increased plug gap be enough to delay the spark and allow the capacitor to charge or would there need to be a resistor or some other trigger in line which would open once a certain voltage is reached?
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OK Phloop, The spark plug wire is connected to the distributor cap where it gets its charge from the coil. The voltage goes into the capacitor where it builds until it is released to the plug in a single short burst. The reason for the ground wire is because that is how capacitors work. In order to drain them, in this case across the spark plug gap you need a closed circuit thus the ground wire from the negative side of the capacitor.
I am sorry that I was wrong with my last post about not replying to this thread again. :-\
I know how the ignition circuit works. As of yet, I have not seen how these snake oil wires get their charge to begin with.
The coil builds voltage and releases it through the plug wires to the plug's. That is something almost every person knows.
The one thing I WANT TO KNOW is how the cap's on the wires gain their power to begin with. ??? ???
Oh and another thing, how do the caps know when to release their energy??
Can some one please dumb this down to where people can understand what these wires do? ???
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OK Phloop, The spark plug wire is connected to the distributor cap where it gets its charge from the coil. The voltage goes into the capacitor where it builds until it is released to the plug in a single short burst. The reason for the ground wire is because that is how capacitors work. In order to drain them, in this case across the spark plug gap you need a closed circuit thus the ground wire from the negative side of the capacitor.
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I know how the ignition circuit works. As of yet, I have not seen how these snake oil wires get their charge to begin with.
They get their (charge) voltage from the coil.
The one thing I WANT TO KNOW is how the cap's on the wires gain their power to begin with. ??? ???
They get their (charge) (Power) voltage from the coil.
Oh and another thing, how do the caps know when to release their energy??
One of two ways, either it is when enough energy has been stored to jump the larger spark plug gap or there is an electronic trigger. I don't have an absolute answer for this one but it is probably the first one.
Can some one please dumb this down to where people can understand what these wires do? ???
These wires increase the spark to the spark plugs.
Sorry I can't do any better than this, If you still need help go Google "how a capacitor works".
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and the duck says...
quack
and the cat says...
meow
and the dog says...
woof
and the cow says...
moo
and thats... the way it goes
(http://www.brightlightsfilm.com/39/39_images/sadmankaufmanlatka.jpg)
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and the duck says...
quack
and the cat says...
meow
and the dog says...
woof
and the cow says...
moo
and thats... the way it goes
([url]http://www.brightlightsfilm.com/39/39_images/sadmankaufmanlatka.jpg[/url])
Very well said!
But what we really need are some "snake oil" jokes!
Question: Why did the serpent cross the road?
Answer: to get to the oily side.
Question: Why did Popeye buy a python?
Answer: because he couldn't get Olive Oil.
Question: How much snake oil does it take to fill a capacitor?
Answer: Oh wait we already heard this one...
Anyone else?
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OK..........
How about we start over? ???
I want to know how these wires work. The nology site does not explain how they work and the posts here are either questioning them or backing them.
I really would like too know how the wires do their thing.
Check out part 2....... ;)
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I think you guys are splitting the finest of hairs. The biggest question I think you should be asking is how much time/money are you investing in the rest of the motor? Stock compression and middle RPMs do you need to spend near $300 on an ignition system to gain 3 hp and half a mpg? I'm thinking if you want torque provided by a longer and more complete burn at 2-5K RPM than a bigger spark with more immediate pressure for a shorter time at 9k RPM. Crappy sentence structure but the theory is solid.
I have an Accell coil and mid grade Bosch wires and Bosch plugs it has worked great for years.
Eventually I put a turbo on and had some ignition problems. Since then I've moved to Bosch Platinum +2 plugs and I'm picking up some high end wires as well.
Opening the gap will always increase voltage and decrease duration, it will also however increase wear on the plugs if they are not of enough quality to sustain it. Ex. burnt, blown off, melted electrodes and ground probes.
I'm not selling anything but I do know MSD has a solid racing background in Baja and many other venues on and off road. My two cents.
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Hey Joe, I agree with everything you posted.
And again, I am trying to take the plug wire debate away from Riddicks thread so that he can get an answer to his question.
Just because us hard headed bozo's want to argue about plug wires doesn't mean he can't get an answer to his question. :-\
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Hey Joe, I agree with everything you posted.
And again, I am trying to take the plug wire debate away from Riddicks thread so that he can get an answer to his question.
Just because us hard headed bozo's want to argue about plug wires doesn't mean he can't get an answer to his question. :-\
Actually there were three answers.
Stock
Stock
try some NGK V's
I didn't respond to the original question because I agree with the original posters. The Zuk engine isn't high powered or high compression so it doesn't need that much of a spark to make it work. Stock plugs should do just fine. I have also run the Vs quite exstensively in other engines and I like them. No noticable power increase but they work better over a wider temperature range. I could run a 9EV instead of a 10R with no loss of power, a normal 9 would fade very badly. Stick to the original rated heat grade and cold performance is noticably better.
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This is still going.WOW!If we could get this much input on every subject there would never be a problem that wasn't solved.
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DIE DEMON THREAD DIE !!