ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Build Diaries, How-To, DIY => Topic started by: kingofthelobster on September 04, 2006, 04:23:20 PM
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How to Flip Your Sidekick/Tracker Front Strut Mounts
By Matt Oswald
Parts:
(6) 30mm M8x1.25 bolts, use a high grade bolt.
(6) M8 lock washers
*By using these parts, you can reuse the factory strut mount nuts.
Tools Used:
(2) Floor jacks
(1) Jack stand
(1) 1/2" drive wrench + short extension
(1) 1/2" drive 19mm socket
(1) 3/8" drive wrench
(1) 3/8" drive 12mm socket
(1) 12mm box wrench
(1) Big pipe wrench
(1) Reciprocating saw and a metal rated saw blade
(1) Flat punch and a hammer
(1) 5/16" drill bit, drill press, and a clamp
(1) Can of WD40
Notice how on a stock front suspension the strut mount sticks up a bit. On one with a suspension lift, the front struts tend to top out and be fully extended even when just sitting in your driveway. By flipping the strut mounts upside down, we can easily add some extra length to the strut before it tops out without having to plunk down a lot of money on some aftermarket off-road struts.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut1_l.jpg)
First step in this little project would be to jack up the front on the frame and remove your wheel. Be sure to support the car with a jack stand on the frame as well in case the jack would fail, last thing you want is a car to come down on top of you while you are working under it.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut2_l.jpg)
Next step is to take another jack and place it under your control arm and jack it up a little bit to relieve the load from the strut and to keep the spring in place while you have the strut detached.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut3_l.jpg)
Now that you have the control arm supported by the jack, you can go ahead and remove the strut top nut. I use a large pipe wrench to hold the hex disk while I use a 19mm socket to undo the nut on top of the strut.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut4_l.jpg)
Next, let the jack under the control arm down a couple inches so that the top of the strut shaft pops out of the mount, then push the strut down further by hand so that it is out of the way.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut5_l.jpg)
Next step is to undo the 3 strut mount nuts using a 12mm socket while supporting the strut mount from underneath with your free hand. You may want to hose these down with a little WD40 before hand, mine were pretty crusty and the WD definitely helped. After you undo the 3 nuts, the strut mount can just be pulled out from underneath.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut6_l.jpg)
Next step is to hack off the bolts so that they are flush with the mount. I used a reciprocating saw, but you can use pretty much any saw that works for cutting metal.
[Edit] A helpful tip from Jeff|removethispart|@TheQuadShop:
Just to make it a little easier, instead of cuting the bolts just use a socket and a vice and they will press right out.
My bolts were fused to the mount with rust which is why I cut them off. If yours aren't too rusty, I would definitely give this a try first and maybe save yourself a bit of time.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut7_l.jpg)
After you hacked all the bolts off flush, use a flat punch and a hammer to knock out the rest of the bolt which is probably stuck to the mount.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut8_l.jpg)
You can see the holes after the bolts are hacked off and knocked out. Next step is drilling them out a little bit.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut9_l.jpg)
I used a 5/16" drill bit in my drill press, which allows just enough room for the new bolts to fit through. I put a piece of 1/4" steel under the edge of the mount to keep it level while drilling. Make sure to clamp the mount to the drill press table so that the mount doesn't take off spinning and take a chunk out of your finger (like you will see in the picture after this one).
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut10_l.jpg)
Next, insert the bolts in the mount upside down and reinsert into the fender well. The part that sticks out should be facing down now.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut11_l.jpg)
Tighten the bolts for the strut mount using your 12mm socket, get them nice and tight, but not so tight that you bend your mount or shock tower.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut12_l.jpg)
Next step is to jack the control arm up again, and pull up on the strut shaft by hand and guide it into the hole in the center of the strut mount.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut13_l.jpg)
After you have the strut top poking up through the mount, place the hex disk, lock washer, and nut back on and tighten them up using a 19mm socket.
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut14_l.jpg)
After you have the top nut tightened up, you can lower and remove the jack from under the control arm. Then put your wheel back on, tighten and properly torque your lug nuts. You can now remove the jack stand and lower the jack and you are good to go!
(http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kingofthelobster/suzuki/strut/strut15_l.jpg)
This write-up was how I went about flipping my strut mounts, you may take a different approach than I did. I had browsed around the Zukiworld forums and didn't see any kind of detailed write-up regarding flipping your front strut mounts, so I decided to make one up myself to help out those who may be new to working on cars or just not quite sure how to go about flipping their mounts. Any recommendations or other tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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nice pictures man =-) really helped explain alot for me.
also your kick looks nice and clean ::) go git er dirty ;D
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Just to make it a little easier, instead of cuting the bolts just use a socket and a vice and they will press right out.
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nice pictures man =-) really helped explain alot for me.
also your kick looks nice and clean ::) go git er dirty ;D
Glad that it helped you out some, I noticed that there weren't really any good writeups so I decided to do one in hopes that it'd help some people out. She's nice and clean looking right now cuz I'm picky about washing and waxing my cars. It's got a 16 year old paint job and you can still see your reflection in it. Soon as I get the front end realigned, she's going out for a romp in the mud and gettin dirty again tho.
Just to make it a little easier, instead of cuting the bolts just use a socket and a vice and they will press right out.
My bolts were fused to the mount with rust, I wailed on them with a mallet and tried a vise, but no luck, so I just cut em' off with the Sawzall. I will definitely make an addition to the write up about that though, might save some people a bit of time.
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cool. how much height did you gain?
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You don't gain height, you gain down travel.
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cool. how much height did you gain?
I actually gained about a half inch on the front in height due to the fact that my struts were topped out just sitting still in the driveway. Jeff is right though, you don't generally gain height, the advantage with this is more down travel. In my situation, I only gained height because my struts being fully extended were keeping my suspension from sitting at its proper height at rest.
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You don't gain height, you gain down travel.
doh, I knew that. thanks.
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Thanks for the detailed write up. I'll be doing this when I get around to installing the spring spacers that I got from Digger. Just waiting for cooler weather. ;D
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One other possible addition to this great write-up, Whenever I do a flip, I like to put either a stack of 3-4 thick washers or a metal spacer of some kind on each bolt, between the mount and the strut tower, so you can get the bolts nice and tight without crushing the stamped steel mount... Great write-up though!
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One other possible addition to this great write-up, Whenever I do a flip, I like to put either a stack of 3-4 thick washers or a metal spacer of some kind on each bolt, between the mount and the strut tower, so you can get the bolts nice and tight without crushing the stamped steel mount... Great write-up though!
x2 you need some kind of shim in there.
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Nicely Explained, HEY ACK, add this to you FAQ!
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Thanks alot, very nicely explained. :)
If you put a 1 1/2" strut spacer how much lift do you get. thanks
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Thanks alot, very nicely explained. :)
If you put a 1 1/2" strut spacer how much lift do you get.  thanks
Strut spacers do not provide lift since the struts don't support the weight of the truck, they merely absorb the shocks while holding the alignment in place(sort of like special shocks that are designed to be used as an upper arm as well). The coil springs support the weight of the truck, so to get any lift, you have to add spacers to the springs...
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Thanks, Digger you know your Sh**!!
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bumped to MOVE
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Thanks for the write up and the pictures they are great and will really help when I do this. So you need washers because the mount has a lip on it .And if you were to tighten it up the body metal would be pulled into the gap crushing it ? Is this correct ?? And would there be any advantage to cutting out a 3/8" or 1/2" spacer out of steel that would fit down in the mount recess area and flush on the body?
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Thanks for the help.
-Eric
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hey BIG DOG
i was just messing around w/my flipped strut mounts.
i had put 1 1/2" spring spacers in front and flipped the mounts, but was not getting much droop before the strut maxed out.
i cut some spacers from 1/2"PVC sheet....
big deal- 1/2"!
i'm not sure what max angle the CV's can take, but i feel better about it and mabe could do more?
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How much down travel do get with this? Also, what size spacer would you want to run? And finally, does this keep from having to get OME struts? I guess what I am saying is what size lift would this accompany? Thanks!
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tis write up is excellent. really cleared up the foggy subject of flipping strut mounts. now that i have pondered on it for a while, would it be ideal that if flipping the strut mount moves the shock down about 1" then, following a 1.5" suspension lift, the struts mounts be flipped and bolted back on with longer bolts and a 1/2" spacer on the bolts holding the mount a further 1/2" from the body? In my head this puts the shocks back in the same relative position to the springs as they were before the lift, thus, good?
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tis write up is excellent. really cleared up the foggy subject of flipping strut mounts. now that i have pondered on it for a while, would it be ideal that if flipping the strut mount moves the shock down about 1" then, following a 1.5" suspension lift, the struts mounts be flipped and bolted back on with longer bolts and a 1/2" spacer on the bolts holding the mount a further 1/2" from the body? In my head this puts the shocks back in the same relative position to the springs as they were before the lift, thus, good?
this was my experience.
i used 1/2" pvc sheet to make my spacers. this did allow more use of the strut.
i have run it that way this season and am quite pleased, but intend to swap out the spacers with 1" ones(same material). i think the cv's can handle it, and still not top out the strut.
i put 1 1/2" coil spacers(jeff's) in front, 2" in rear.
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where are the pics? Im about to start my lift and need help :)
cheers
shayne New Zealand
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all good sorted :) anyone ever worry about the caps strength once flipped, mind you only abosrbing the shock not the load am i right?
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i haven't worried about it- i've been running that way(flipped) for several years.
i was a bit concerned, when i first did it, that it would affect the camber, but it aligns ok.
no worries now.
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I've blown out a front strut mount once, so I carry a spare just in case
Wild
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Okay cooll, thanks guys from look of your pics i dont think i will be going that rough, im sure it wouldnt take much to break if i started jumping the thing... did the break happen 4x4ing or on the road?
Ive shimmed mine with washers so it should be strong enough.
I also have to fit camber bolts i dunno if my alignment guy will be able to fix positive camber without them!
Is anyone running the diff a frame spacer to stop the breakage of that aframe tie rod end? where would i find dimensions? also what bolt grade did everyone use for the bolts on the strut tower for the flip. Ive used 8.8 Metric grade in an M8x30mm
cheers for ya help
Shayne
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I was out wheeling and doing some high speed rough road and I started feeling
something wrong so I stopped and checked it out, I may have not put the big
washers back on and caused too much pull to pop it apart, been a long time
and I can't remember, but I haven't blown one since, and that was over 6 years ago
Wild
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Great makes me feel a lil better.. thanks :)
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i haven't worried about it- i've been running that way(flipped) for several years.
i was a bit concerned, when i first did it, that it would affect the camber, but it aligns ok.
no worries now.
sorry- i ment caster, not camber(i used camber bolts).
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Strut spacers are easier to install and work better. Doing a strut flip does not give you as much travel as you need when installing a 2" lift
Here's a picture of some strut spacers available at SR CUSTOMS:
http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56 (http://www.srcustoms.ca/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=56)
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6249/89981.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/685/89981.jpg/)
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jeeeez those are a great idea!, they dont sell stuff like that over here!
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Okay i think ive done the right thing here...
Please just read and confirm for me.
Ive done the springs while it was all out i removed the strut.
I took the top nut off removed the funny shaped washer and slid off the Cap.
pressed the bolts out, flipped the cap over, put the funny shaped washer back on the same way it came off did up the main nut. Now also when i reinstalled, between the Lip and the tower where bolts go thru i also packed with a couple of washers.
Is this the correct and safe way of doing a flip? someother people expained it a different way and have confused me as they said their rubber part failed in the cap, hence all my questions.. Thanks heaps guys
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If I read it right, sounds like you did the flip correctly, good job
Wild
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it does sound like you got it.
i added some spacers.
i've heard of that rubber in a strut mount failing, but have not seen it. yet.
this is what i did.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/P9180045-1.jpg)
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If I read it right, sounds like you did the flip correctly, good job
Wild
thanks mate thaught i had by looking at all the jazz on the flip idea. Cheers again
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Chaps,
I am a bit confused here, I have installed 1.25" coil spacers all around front and rear along with 31x10.5 R15 tires. I want to even out all the wheels/fender spacing as it's currently much lower in the front.
Will flipping the strut mounts increase the height by any means? Or shall I install bigger coil spacers in the front, I am a bit worried that this might affect the drivability ? Or shall I add strut spacers, I am not sure if that will help.
Appreciate your inputs.
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The strut doesn't affect the height unless it's maxed out and compressing the spring(which I doubt with a 1.25" lift). You could go up to 1.5"-2" before you would need to lower the front diff to save the c.v. joints from destruction >:D
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I have used these in the past with great results. Inexpensive too.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=72 (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=72)
Here is the install article
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_050107/feature_budget-4doorbuild.htm (http://www.zukiworld.com/month_050107/feature_budget-4doorbuild.htm)
Hutch
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Chaps,
I am a bit confused here, I have installed 1.25" coil spacers all around front and rear along with 31x10.5 R15 tires. I want to even out all the wheels/fender spacing as it's currently much lower in the front.
Will flipping the strut mounts increase the height by any means? Or shall I install bigger coil spacers in the front, I am a bit worried that this might affect the drivability ? Or shall I add strut spacers, I am not sure if that will help.
Appreciate your inputs.
There must be some other issue. With 1,25" spacers all around, it should be lower in the back if anything.
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The current situation is that its higher from the back However, The good thing about that is that when I load the back with heavy stuff the car almost evens out.
On the other hand if i had it evened out with no load it will have to be lower from the back when loaded which might cause some rubbing issue but i am not quite sure about that.
What i though of is replacing the 1.25" in the front with 1.75" but i am not very confident doing that as it might affect the wheels alignment & CV and the drivel ability.
Appreciate your inputs/comments.
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i agree that the pucks should have had more effect in the front than what you report.
did you remove the rubber bushing before installing the puck? same in rear(i did not)?
stock springs?
front suspension drop when you lift the chassis?
something funny going on.